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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I mn- -1>^ • "f . HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN LOWER AND UPPEE EGYPT. PART IL HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN LOWER AND UPPER EGYPT; USCLVDmQ DESOBIFnOirS OF THE COURSE OF THE NILE THROUGH EGYPT AND NUBIA, ALEXANDEIA, CAIBO, THE PYBAMTDS, THEBES, THE SUEZ CANAL, THE PENINSULA OP MOUNT SINAI, THE OASES, THE FATOOM, &o. m TWO PARTS.— Part IL SIXTH EDITION, REVISED ON THE SPOT 88 MAPS^ PLANS» ETC LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. PARIS; GALIGNANI; BOYVEAU. MALTA: MUIR. CAIBO AND ALEXANDRIA : ALEXANDRIA BOO^ C»Q«Si:sr^. 1880, 2%< right af Tronslatioa it roerMdU J <~" / t^J ^^":-' CONTENTS OF PART II. SECTION V. Thb Desert East of the Nile, and the Peninsula of Sinai. PAGK Boute 11. Cairo to the Convents * of St. Antony and St. Paul .... 323 „ 12. The Valley of the Nile (Eeneh, Kobt, &c.) PAGE to the Red Sea (Kos- seir, &c.) .... 325 Koutel3. Cairo to Gaza (Syria) by the "Short Desert*. 328 14. Cairo to Mount Sinai. 330 it SECTION VI. The Desebt West of the Nile, and the Fayoom. Route 15. Cairo to the Natron Lakes and Monas- teries 360 „ 16. Alexandria or Cairo to - the Oasis of Seewah or Amnion . . .. 366 Route 17. Cairo to the Great Oasis, the Little Oasis, and the Oasis of Dakhleh by the Fayoom .... 368 18. Cairo to the Fayoom . 376 n SECTION VII. The Valley of the Nile fbom Cairo to Thebes. Preliminary Information . . . . 885 | Route 19. Cairo to Thebes . . 394 SECTION VIII. Thebes. Thebes :— \ DeBcnplioti olTVi'^tsea-— Nte»'^\iaax*« Preliminaij Jnfannation . . 450 I and Ki^eaiQii^ ^^^ vi CONTENTS OF PART H. SECTION IX. The Valley of the Nile from Thebes to the First Cataract (ASSOOAN AND PHIL-ffi). Boute 20. Luxor (Thebes) to Assoodn, the First Cataract, and Philss . 505 SECTION X. The Valley of the Nile in Nubia from the First to the Second Cataract, and to Khartoom. PAGE Nubia : — General Observations . • . 529 Boute 21. Phi]sB(l8t Cataract) to WddyHalfeh (2nd Ca- taract), and Semneh 532 PAGE Boute 22. Wddy Halfah (2nd Ca- taract) to Khartoom, and thence to Sowa- kin on the Bed Sea 547 General Index 551 LIST OF MAPS, PLANS, Etc., IN PART n. PAGE Map of Mount Sinai, and the surrounding Valleys and Hills . . 349 Plan of the Temple of Sethi I., Abydus 434 Plan of the Temple of Denderah 441 Map of Thebes — western bank to face 4:55 Plan of the Rameseum, or Memnonium, Thebes .. 457 Plan of the Tombs of the Kings (Bal El-Molook) ., .. to face 476 Map of Thebes and Luxor — eastern bank „ 493 Plan of the Great Temple of Karnak 496 Plan of the Temple of Edfoo 511 Plan of the Island of Philae .. .. , 525 Philse, approaching it from the Cataracts 528 Plan and Section of the Great Temple of Aboo Simbel 542 Map of Egypt in pocket at tlie end. ( 323 ) PART II. SECTION V. « THE DESERT EAST OF THE NILE A3SB THE PEirDTSTrLA OF SINAI. fiouTB 11. Cairo to the Convents of St. Antony and St. Paul in the Eastern Desert by Benisooef . . . ^ 12. TheVaUeyoftheNile (Keneh, Kobt, &c.) PAGE 823 to the Bed Sea PAGE 825 (Eosseir, &c.) . . BoTTTE 13. Cairo to Gaza (Syria) by the "Short De- sert" . . . . 828 14. Cairo to Mount Sinai 330 >» ROUTE 11. CAIRO TO THE CONVENTS OF ST. ANTONY AND ST. PAUL IN THE EASTERN DESERT BY BENISOOEF. This jonmey is not likely to be undertaken by the ordinary traveller, nor does it present any great points of interest save to the geologist and the student of Christian antiquities. The nsual Preparations must be made for a desert journey, for which consult Bte. 14, 0, as 3 or 4 nights at any rate must be spent in the open, and no provisions can be obtained on the road, or indeed at the convents. Several roads lead from the Nile to the con- vents, and to other parts of the desert ; but the best and most frequented IB that from Dayr Bydd, a village opposite Benisooe'f. Benisooef (see p. 398) can be reached by rail from Boolak Dakroor, opposite Cairo, in 4 hrs. On arriving at Benisooef it ia neoeaBaz7 to send for the Aheykh of the Maazee Bedaween, who oc- cupy that part of the eastern desert which has to be traversed, and make arrangements with him for supplying camels and an escort. The contract with the sbeykh should be signed at the Mudereeyeh or govemment-houfe. To avoid delay it is well to send a telegram to the Mudeer some little time beforehand, requesting him to send for the sbeykh by a certain date. Before starting, letters of introduction to the convents should be procured from the subsidiary establishment at Boosh, a villapre on the Nile, a short distance N. of Benisooef, where indeed the Superior of the CJonvent of St. Antony often resides. For Cairo to Benisooef. see Rte. 19. The journey from Dayr ByAd to Dayr Mar-Antonios will take 3 days. The best plan is to encamp the night before the start at Dayr B^iil^^ij^ ^^ v^ be off eaxV^ Vti'a Ti«sA. \skSsrDM^%. ^Tas^ rood to Daifp l£art'-Au\««.io%,^SJ«st ^'«»'^'' 324 ROUTE 11. — CAIRO TO CX)NVENTS IN E. DESERT. Sect. Y. Wddy el-Arraba, a large valley, nearly 20 m. broad, which runs to the Bed Sea between the ranges of the northern and southern Kalalla. This valley has received its name from iheplatiatra, or carts, that formerly carried provisions to the two monasteries, and is absurdly reported to have been so called from the chariots of Pharaoh that pursued the Israelites, as they crossed the sea to the desert of Mount Sinai. There aie several watering-places in this wddy, the most convenient of which are at Wddy elrAreidoih on the N., and at Wddy Om-Ainebeh on the S. side. Grazelles may often be seen on the road; and on the higher ground is found the curious Anastatica or Jericho rose. The scenery in parts is fine, especially in the neighbourhood of a large wddy, about 2 hrs. from St. Antony. Dayr Uar-Antonios, *' the Monastery of St. Antony" was founded by St. Antony of the Thebaid, the friend and companion of Mar-Bolos, or St. Paul, a hermit who founded the neighbour- ing monastery, called after him Dayr Bdlos. It claims to be the oldest convent in Egypt, and the first in size and importance. Its lofty walls en- close an irregular mass of buildings, and a large garden abounding in vegetables, date palms, caroobs, and other trees, and watered by rills con- ducted from a fine spring that bursts out of a cleft in the rock behind. According to an Arab tradition men- tioned by Makreezee, Miriam, the sister of Moses, bathed in this spring at the time of the Exodus. The con- vent has been destroyed and rebuilt ; but the lower part of the kasr or tower, in which there is as usual a chapel dedicated to St. Michael, and the church of Marl Antonios are probably ancient. This church is curious and interesting, the walls being covered with old frescoes, many of them very curious in design. There are 8 or 4 other churches within the convent, and a large 12-domed one in the garden ; but they are all of them of comparatively recent date. Tradition records that, about 400 yefid» ago, the Mussulman slaves whom they had bought to do the menial work and nominally converted to Christianity. After a time these slaves died off, and the convents were left a prey to the Bedaween, who destroyed everything, MSS. included. Subsequently, about 300 years ago, they were again taken possession of by Coptic monks. High up in the precipitous face of the mountain above the convent is the Maghdrah^ or Cave of St. Antony, a small natural fissure in the rock, from the ledge in front of which there is a very fine view of the desert, the Red Sea, and the Sinaitio mountains be- yond. Dayr Har-B61os is nearly a day's journey beyond Dayr Antonios nearer the Bed Sea. It also has been de- stroyed and rebuilt. In general ap- pearance and arrangement it much resembles Dayr Antonios. The sites of other convents are said to exi&t in the neighbouring desert. At one, called by the Arabs Dayr Behayt, there is a well of good water. The Quarries of Oriental alabaster, which supplied the stone for the mosque of Mohammed Ali at the Citadel of Cairo, are in the Wddy Om- Argo6b ; a valley running into the Wddy Modlhil which again falls into the Wddy Sennoor, to the S. of the road leading to the convents. There is also a gypsum-quarry near the Gebel Kha- leel^ on the N. side of the Wddy Arraha ; and Wansleb speaks of a ruined tovra in the same neighbourhood. In this part of the desert the moun* tains are all limestone; like those that border the valley of the Nile, from Cairo southwards to the sandstones of Hagar Silsili and its vicinity. The junction of the limestone and sand- stone in the Maazee desert takes place at about latitude 28° 42' to the 8. of Dayr Bolos, and a few miles farther down begins a range of primi- tive moimtains, granite, porphyry, &c., which continues parallel with the sea to Abyssinia, throwing out a branch westward, which touches the Nile at Assooin (see p. 20). Considerably farther 8. are the porphyry quarries pxonka were all murdered by aoipw \ at Gebel ed-Boklvau,''^^&Liaft \J^a«^ -^\«i» '^^'^ 330 BOUTE !■*. — CAIBO TO MOUKT SIITAI. Seot V. mophet WW thiown np by the whale. But the usual Arabic ttsditioa plaoes that oocurraoce between Sidon and Beyroot. Bheep and poultry ta proGUied in this Tillage. Then piotuieaque ruin of a fort and mot , a good view of the BUirounding ooniitry can be obtained from the miiutet Two bra. from Khan Yoones 1b the Tillage of Seer Aboo Balk, with a fine groTe of date-palms and a laige deep well ; and Gaza is leached in 2i hra. Oan, now called Ohuzzeh, ii town of some 10,000 inhabitants, situated on a low flat hill about 3 miles from the sea. It was formerly, as its Hebrew and Arabia names imply, a " strongly fortified place," but it is now quite open. It ia a very old citj, and played a great part in Biblical history. Its position, as the last in the S.W. of Palestine and oi frontier of Egypt, made it an important military position ; but since the con- Siest of E^ypt and Syria by the oalems it has hod no history. For ft full description of Garai, «ee Hand- ho(A o/ Syria. There is a telegraph etatioiL at Gaza, and some English CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI. a. Preliminary Hinti, h. Cairo to Suez. e. Iifliabitants of the Penin- snia of Sinai, d. Geography and natural features. «. Natural His- tory and Climate. /. Kuins. g. Boute of the Israelites from Egypt to Mt. Sinai, h. Bonte from Ain MxMa to Jebel JUoosa flttt Binaij and Vbo ConTCnt of St. Catherine ; (a> vie! W^y Mnkatteb and Feirin ; (a), via Sai&bit el-Ehddim. t. De- scription of Convent, k. Ascent of Jebel Moosa and R^ Sufstifeh. I. Ascent of Jebel Katareena. m. Other excuTBlons. n. Coutinnation of the journey by the Long Desert, (TfaAkabah and Petra, or tni! Nahkl, to Faleatine. a. FRELmmABT Hmrs. From Cairo to Mount Sinai is one of the stages in what ia called the " Long Desert " route from Egypt to Syria ; but as many tiayellera pay a yisit to Mt. Sinai, and then return to Egypt without going farther, it will t ' ' ling is during the months of February, March, and ApriL Earlier than Feb- ruary the night* are very cold, and snow is not uncommon in the Sinai hilla. Later than April the davs are very hot. The time required for the joomey from Suez to the convent at Sinai and back, will be from a fort- night to three vteeka, according to the time spent at the convent. Frapsratioiu. — These are usually mode at Cairo, as most of the sheykbs of the Towarah Arabs, who act as guides, and from whom cam els are hired, are to be found in tbe early spring at the Egyptian capital waiting tor a joK and the dragomen like to employ men they know, nnd haTe the terms of the contract settled, including the camels, at Cairo. But unless the traveller is anxious to spend a fe« ikys fu cross- ing the desert from Cairo to Suez, in- stead of going to the latter place by rail' way in one day, and if he do«s not mind giving himself a little extra trouble, he will save a good deal of expense by telegraphing or writing to the manager of the Suez Hotol a few days before intends leaving Cairo, and request- ing him to have some camels and guides r there ehonlif four days will suffice to bring in any nnmber from the desert. The contract Effypt. EOUTE 14. — EXPENSES — THINGS REQUIPED. 331 Cairo to include everything but camels, 'which the traveller will make his own bargain for at Suez, and tents, stores, &c., can be sent to Suez by rail. Per- haps the best plan of all is to engage the sheykh at Cairo, with the under* standing that his camels will only be paid for from Suez : only by no means be persuaded to go to Tor on the Sed Sea by water from Suez, as when once there, the Arabs will ask what they like. A letter of introduction must be obtained at Cairo or Suez from the agents of the Convent of St. Catherine at Sinai, as the monks may make a difficulty about admitting the traveller without one. Expenses. — Supposing that the tra- veller dispenses with a dragoman and a contract, merely engaging a man as a servant, with or witliout a canteen, and providing tents, stores, &c., and hiring camels himself, his expenses from Suez to Sinai and back need not be more than at the rate of SOs. to 858. a day, and two people could do it for 21. ; but of course more trouble is involved than if he engages a drago- man to provide him with everything. The charges of dragomen vary so from year to year, that it is difficult to estimate the expense of this journey, but a party of 4 persons ought not to pay more than 30 shillings a day each for everything except wine; this pro- portion being lessened or increased according to the size of the party. Formerly people were content to travel without beds and a hundred other little luxuries which are now considered indispensable; and in- deed it would be difficult now to find a good dragoman who would con- sent to undertake the job, unless it was to be carried out in the way he considers necessary, and for which he charges accordingly. It should be distinctly understood, when the con- tract is made with the dragoman to supply everything, that the traveller is never to be troubled by the Arabs with any sort of application for money or anything else; the dragoman ia responsible tor everything : but at the been given, a small bachsJieesh may be distributed. The contract with the dragoman should be properly signed at the Consulate, where, if it is wished, a form of agreement can be obtained, in which alterations can be made to suit any particular requirements. Half the amount of the contract may be paid on the conclusion of the agree- ment, but the other half should be kept till the journey is over. If the traveller hires the camels himself, he will have to make a separate contract with the sheykh who supplies them, either at Cairo or Suez. It is impos- sible to lay down any fixed sum for the hire of camels, but it may be as- sumed roughly that while from 6 to 8 shillings a day will be asked at Cairo, they may be obtained at Suez for half-a-crown for travelling days, and 1 shilling for stopping days. Things required. — The following list may be useful, even to those who intrust everything to a dragoman, as they will find it advisable every now and then to superintend his preparations. A party of 4 should have 2 large tents, one for feeding and sitting in, and one for sleeping in, and one smaller one for the kitchen and servants. When the party consists of only 2, or even 3, one tent for day and night might be sufficient. Beds (iron that fold up), tables, chairs, and all the in- side appurtenances of a tent should be examined, and seen to be strong and sound. The tents should be provided with extra ropes, as well as a double supply of pegs and mallets. All water for drinking should be carried in barrels kept strictly locked, and the Arabs never allowed to draw froili them. In addition to this, each person should have a small water-skin, called a zemzemeeyeh, to hang at his saddle ; these, if new, should be filled and emptied several times, to get rid of the disagreeable taste they give «to the water. Water for washing may be carried in a goat-skin called girbeh; but the following description will show the traveller who dofe^ t^rJv* ^s»x5fti about Tou^vii^ Vt \jc» TBJMSa^ ^CosX \s^ responsible tor everyming ; but at the \ naa fjettet nox wi Q«raB^v»vL>. ^"_t^ end of the Journey, if satiBfaotion has \ girbeh, wi<9L >i3aa -«^N«t >5mi^^^ ^^^s»^^ 832 ROUTE 14. — CAIEO TO MOUNT SINAT. Sect V. to be met with in the Peninsula. " To the traveller in these thirsty limestone deserts, his dependence upon brackish and unpalatable water tor his only supply is one of his greatest hardships. To be constantly imbibing a fairly powerful solution of Epsom salts is an amusement one soon grows tired of. We used to try all sorts of plans to dis- guise the flavour, — lime-juice, brandy, strong tea, or Arab coffee as thick as cream ; but neither these, nor boiling, nor filtering, nor anything we could do, were really of much avail. Then again, the system of carrying it in girhehs, or prepared goat-skins, though externally convenient in some respects, does not improve its flavour or the relish with which you drink it. The appearance of a filled girheh is very much that of a small black pig which has met with a watery grave ; so that, what with the naturally villainous taste of the water, its strong purgative properties, the little extra goatish flavour im- parted to it by the girheh, and the notion of the drowned pig, you have to become pretty well hardened before you can be said to enjoy it." — Capt. H. 8. Palmer. It may be added, how- ever, that the water in the granite district is excellent. A pair of Arab saddle-bags (khurg) should be taken, as they are very useful for carrying everything required for the night, books, &c. With regard to Provisions, travellers will provide themselves according to their wants and tastes; but it must be remembered that absolutely nothing can be bought after leaving Suez, ex- cept sheep, which may sometimes be had from the Bedaween near Sinai. In addition, therefore, to any pre- served meats and other things, it is necessary to take a stock of live fowls, turkeys, and pigeons for the whole journey. Fresh bread may be baked ^t Sinai. Good tea will be found a very grateful and refreshing drink after a hot day's ride. One of the best pick-me-ups after a hot and wearying day's ride is a tumbler of tea a la Busse, with a slice of lemon, soiaa sugar, and a spoonful of brandy. -SCZt caa only be procured legnlaxiy }if there happens to be among the camels one with a newly dropped young one : it is better, therefore, to take some preserved milk. A supply of oranges is a pleasant luxury, and will be much appreciated at the mid-day meal. Water should never be drunk alone, but always mixed with a little brandy : indeed, on the score both of health and convenience of carriage, weak brandy-and-water is the best beverage on a desert journey; but it is one, no doubt, which many people do not like, and they will prefer to take claret, — though, as 3 bottles of claret will hardly go as far as one of brandy, an extra camel will be required for its transport. An extra supply of coffee and Sooree tobacco, to give to the Arabs occasionally, will be found useful. There ought to be but little need of Medicine in the pure air of the desert ; but if the traveller is provided, as he probably is, with a small medi- cine chest (see p. 12), he had better take it with him. A little rose-water is often pleasant to the eyes after a hot day's march in the sun ; and eau-de- luce or, still better, ammonia, is a good thing for bites and stings. A flannel shirt and a suit of tweed of moderate texture, not too thin, forms the best Clothing. It is a great mis- take to wear very thin clothing, as the direct rays of the sun are felt through it in the daytime, and the evenings are often quite cold. A rug and great coat should be taken: an extra covering is often required at night, and they are useful in adding to the comfort of the seat on the camel. The head must be well protected from the sun : a pith helmet, or a white or grey felt not well wrapped round with a pug- geree are perhaps the best coverings ; but especial care should be taken that the nape of the neck is well protected. It is a good thing to cut the hair pretty short, and always wear underneath the helmet or hat one of the white cotton caps (taheeyeh) worn by the natives under the tarboosh. A tar- boosh itself will be found useful for wear in the tent at night. Those who iutexid to do muc\i "^oXVLvsL^^ud climb- BOUTE 14. — CAMEL-RIDINa — GENERAL HINTS. ing among the Sinaitic hills must have at least one, if not two, pair of very stout strong boots, as the granite rocks destroy leather in an incredibly short space of time. A loose white bnmoose, or abhayeh, to wear while camel-riding, is a great protection from both heat and dust. Though it will seldom be wanted in the desert, it is well to take a macintosh sheet, or American oilcloth, for damp ground. The ordinary Arab saddle-bags will be found very useful for carrying things in daily use. The best port- manteau is a tin travelling bath of moderate size, with an inside that takes out, and. a wicker covering : and this arrangement allows the luxury of a bath, when water is to be had, without carrying extra luggage. All india- rubber baths have the disadvantage of not being able to be repaired any- where if they get out of order. Camel-riduig. — Much of tilie com- fort in a desert journey depends on haying a good camel and a comfortable seat. The camel should be chosen and tried beforehand ; and the quieter he is, and the easier his paces, the better. A trotting dromedary (Jieggeen) nobody requires who is going to keep pace with tents and baggage, but an animal less rough in its walk than the ordi- nary baggage-camel is a desideratum. Much careM preparation should be given to the seat Some will prefer a regular drome^^y-saddle, with the addition of stirrups to rest the legs. The more ordinary method is, first to ding the saddle-bags across the com- mon camel pack-saddle, and then to pile on the top as many wraps and rugs as you may have, so as to form as soft and wide a seat as possible, taking care to strap them firmly down in Older to prevent their slipping. Ton may then sit in any position you please, — sideways, or astride, or lady- rashion. Stirrups may be hung on either from the peak in the front of the saddle, or from the side, to give a rest to the foot The following plan is recommended by one who has had some experience in camel riding: — ''Place a light box ot package on citbar dde et iho jMoJc-aaddle, suffi- 338 ciently closely corded to form one wide horizontal surface. On tiiis lay a carpet, mattress, blanket, and wraps, thus forming a delicious couch or seat, and giving the option of lying down, or sitting either side-saddle or cross- legged. Sheets, pillow, rug, &c., mar be rolled up and strapped to the bafJk of the saddle, and form an excellent support to the back or elbow." The object of the light box or package is to a certain extent answered by a paijr of well stuffed saddle-bags. A proper supply of rope nets («fte6&eA«A) for packing the baggage on the camels is essential ; otherwise the loads are con- tinually coming to pieces and falling : moreover the nets act as a protection against projecting pieces of rock in a narrow defile. General Hints. — Two more obser> vations personal to the traveller in the desert may be added. If strong and able, he should walk as much as pos- sible. The Arabian desert has not, like the African, a surface of deep sand ; but offers to tbe pedestrian, as a rule, a crisp, gravelly foothold, very plea- sant to walk on. The pace of the camels — 2 J miles an hour— can always be exceeded by the walker, and this affords him the opporiimity, when there is no fear of losing the way, and the road is everywhere secure, as it is between Suez and Sinai, of examining the coimtry a little more in detau than is possible from a camel's back. Another great relief to tbe uncon- trollable feeling of efnnui and sense of monotony, which comes over most peo- ple during a long day's ride on a camel's oack under a broiling sun, is reading. The scenery may be impressive and full of interest of all kinds, and your companions may be kindred in spirit and pleasant to talk to, but never- theless a book is an agreeable change. Not a stiff book either, treating of the place and its history, but a novel or some such light reading. Stanley, Bobinson, Miss Martineau, Lord Lindsay, and as many other "local** books as can be found room foi^ should of eoxjLjreft \» \a\ysck. «ss.^ ^sskA. .daily, «n^ ixo oii^ t^^r^ Vi >» ifc-^ ' minded ^b»X ^Sast^ \a ^^ ^^t'^^Nfe^ 388 BOOTE 14. CAIEO TO MOUHT SISAI. Sect. T. the air is very Btill, viith only a gentle cooling Ineeze, but now and then lieavv galea sndilenly spring up. The lainfull iH very slight, nnleaa there occurs one of thoee storms already alluded to. Blight shocks of earth- quedie are said to be occasionatlj^ felt. Heavy dews ore common io the winter. /. Btnufl. The archieology of the Sinaitic Peninsula is of considerable interest. Tlie ruins may be divided into four claEsee. 1. Primitive remafni, such as stone circles, tombs, store-hooses, the navximeee before referred to, archaic Bculpturinga, &o,, which may be le- ferred to the early inhnbitaiits of Ihe couotry, perhaps the" Amalekiies" of the Bible. 2. Eqyptian remaini, such as those of Magharah and Saribit el Eh^dim. 3. Mrnmttk mint, cod- ustiug of baildiogs erected by monks and hermits from tbe 4tb to the 7th Qenturies a.d. And 4. Foii-monattic, consisting of the fev mins which bare a Mohammedan origin. Such ancient remains bb occur on the routes to Sinai will be noticed in their place- But one mote Bubjecf requires per- haps to he referred to before starting on the journey, and that is, the route fol- lowed by the Israelites in the Ezodui. Many tbeoriesexisl on tbis subject. It will be well to give a short outline of the principal of them. The starting gint in Egypt is called in tlie Bible imeBea(Ei.xii.37; Num.isiiu.3,5). Vaiioua identificationH have been pro- posed for this town, the chief of which are — (o), Babylou, now Old Cairo; (6). Heliopolis, now Matareeyeh ; (c), Heioopolis, the site of which is per- haps lit a place called AtiooKhasbeb in the Wady Toomikt, where a monu- ment of the time of Rajneses II. still exists, or near the heights of Serapeum and TooKoom on the line of tbe Suez Canal ; and, lastly (tJ), Tanis, or Zoan, rjon" Sto. JdeBtiScalion (a) snpposeB the roKte Afier leAviag Biuueees to have been down the Wady et-Tih, through the Desert, to the Bed Sea, which was then cros-ed from the foot of Rhs Attakab below Buez to Aiu Monsa, a distance of more than 5 miles. A liedawee tradition supports this so far as the scene of the passage is ooa- cemod. {b) supposes the route to have led down to near tbe present head of the Kcd Sea, and the passage to have taken place in tbe neighbourhood of Suez, (c) places Eameaea much far- ther north-east, and supposes the route to bave lain first to some point in the neighbourhood of the modem Bitter Lakes, or of Luke Timsah, which l^eie formed the head of the Red Sea, and thence south ward to a point near Sha- loof on the Suez Canal, where the Red Sea must have been comparatively shallow and soSiciently narrow to ad- mit of the whole host mossing over in one night (Ex, xiv.i. Identification (d) is one proposed by Dr. Bnigsch (see Brugsehs 'His- tory of Egypt.' ii. 327), and thought by many scholars to be tbe best, as being based on indications fumidied by papyri and by inscriptions on existmg old Egyptian monnmenta. The hieroglyphic text on two statues found at S&n, the ancient Tanis, furnish the information that Barneses II. gave his name to the (own of Tanis, called ZAa in old Egyptian and Zoan in Hebrew. Eastward of Zka, or Ba- rneses, was a district called in the geo- graphical lists extant on certain monu- ments Thuku or Tbukut, the Bame probably as the Succolh of the Bible, the spot where Iho fugitives first stuped after leaving Kameses. Its chief town, we learn from the same sources, was Pitom, one of the treasure cities built by the Israelites, A papy- rus in the British Museum mentions Khatom ut the second station on the road from Rameses to Migdol, and Khatom may be taken to be Etham, mentioned as the Israelites' second resting-place. Migdol, between which and the sea was the next encampment, was the "tower" or "fort" which, ac- oording to several hieroglyphic ingcrip- tione, defended Egypt on tbe north, and \ wi Wi/uaaiiA. fiiAntV'j wni«n«\iaie near Egy^. ROUTE 14. — ROUTE OP THE ISRAELITES. 339 the modem Eantarah on the Suez Canal. Here then, according to Dr. Brugsch, was the scene of the passage, not acrogs the Red Sea, as always hitherto supposed, but across the Medi- terranean, or rather the marshes lying between the Mediterranean and the Serbonian bog, and which Strabo and Diodoras both speak of as being often inundated to a considerable depth. Dr. Bru^sch's theory as to the starting point and sub&equent route of the Israelites thus far has been a good deal criticised. Among the objec- tions takei^ to it are the difficulty phi- lologically of identifying Succoth with Thi3ni, and Etham with Khatom, and the Yam Suf, " Sea of Weeds," the usual singular Hebrew name for the Red Sea, and one used by the oldest saored writers in their accounts of the passage, with the Mediterranean. The first stage mentioned in the Bible after the passage of the sea is Marah, the waters of which were bitter. This is identified by Dr. Brugsch with the present Bitter Lakes ; and Elim, the next stage, where there " were twelve wells of water and threescore and ten palm-trees,*' with Ain Moosa. The theory which places tbe scene of the passage at Shaloof identifies Marah with Ain Moosa, and Elim with Wady Ghuruudel, while that \^hich places it at Suez . fixes on Ain Hawdrah or W^y Amdrah for the former, and on Wddy Ghurimdel or Wddy Useit for the latter. The next encampment spoken of was «* by the Red. Sea" (Num. xxxiii. 10). somewhere no doubt on the broad level plain at the mouth of Wady Taiylbeh. The "Wilderness of Sin" is the next stage in tiie journey, and this is sappOBed to correspond with the open plam called El-Markhah, extending by the sea from Jebel el Markhah to the entrance to Wady Feiran. The next two places mentioned in Numbers are Dophkah and Alush, which cannot be identified; but as they lay between the Wilderness of Sin and Rephidim, they must be looked for somewhere in the Wady Feirto. There are four roads leading from El - Markhah to Jebel Moosa, and some writers have advocated the claims of one or other of these to have been that taken by the Israelites ; but everything seemJs in favour of the Wddy Feirdn having been the one chosen. It Is a much easier road than any of the others, and it was likely to have been chosen in preference to the other easy one by Seih Sidreh and Wady Mukatteb, as avoiding the Egyptian settlements at Maghdrah. Ancient tradition, and most modem authors, agree in pLtcing Rephidim at Feiran. Its position answers to all the requirements of the account of the battle with the Amalekites (Ex. xvii. 8-16); and the rock which Moses there struck to procure water being called "the Rock of Horeb," is thought to present no difficulty, if, as is supposed, *• Horeb " is a general term applied to the whole granite district of the Peninsula, and not to any one particular peak or mountain. This is the view taken by Lepsius, Stanley, and all the meml)ers of the Ordnance Survey, except Mr, Holland, who follows Burckhardt and Robinson in placing Rephidim at El-Wateeyeh, a narrow pass leading through the granite wall which encloses the central group of Sinaitic mountains to which, in Mr. Holland's opinion, the term "Horeb." answering to «E1-Jebal," properly belongs. The arguments in favour of this view are, that El- Watecyeh is within an easy day's journey of Jebel Moosa, a condition which some think is required by the Biblical narrative, and that Moham- medan tradition points out a rock there called " the Seat of the prophet Moses." Various other traditions, how- ever, say as much or more for Feiran, and the account in Exodus xix. 2 does not seem necessarily to imply that only one day elapsed between leaving Rephi- dim and camping " before the mount." From Feiran the main body of the Israelites, with their flocks and herds, probably passed up the Wady esh Sheykh, while Moses and the Rldsx% went by the 'WttAi ^^3a.l ^^^'Caa^^ss^ Iwlucli took, v^^aes^ ^^ ^^\s^st ^'^ ^^'^ Ik fc^ "^ 340 EODTE I4-. — CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI. SMtV. Law, being tie plain of Br-Efihah al the foot of the peak of Jebel Moosa, called Biis Sufaafeb. It would take too long here lo examine at length fbe daima of the dUTerent mountains thi' have been put forward to repreeei "Mount Sinai," "the Mount of the GiTing of the Law." They are five in number, — Jebel el-Ejmah, Jebel ITmm Alavee, Jebel Katareena, Jebel Beib^, and Jebel Moosa. The last two have had the most adTOOates: but all tecent researcli and diacoveiy seeme to disaUow the claim of any but Jebel Hoosa. Its p«ak of Rtia 8niB4feb alune ■eeme to meet all the requirements of the CHBe, viz., a well-defined precipi- tous monntaiii Bumtnit, overlooking a large open space, on which a vaat hoet lihe that of the iBjaelites could encamp, and find sustenance for their flocks and herds in tlio surronnding TaJleys, It does not come within the scope of the pregent route to trace the road fol- lowed by the Israelites farther thon Mount Sinai; and, indeed, the ma- terials for the identificatioD of any of their BobseqDent resting-places are so al^ht, that hardly one site can be fixed with any oertainty. h. RotTTEB FBOH 6uQ TO JeBEL MoOSA (Motmr BiHAi), and tbb Convent OF Bx. Gathbbine. There are aereral roods by which Mount Binai may be reached from Suez ; but it will be sufficient here to describe the twowhichare most usually followed by travellers, the one in going to, and the other in returning from Mount Sinai, merely indicating the names and (Ustances along the other roads. And of these two principal roads the first and the last ports coin- cide, the difference in direction occur- ring between Wady Shebeikeh and the mouth of Nugb Howa. fijute (a) via Wddy ifufoiHefr and Feitaa. TtOa. Suez to Ain Mooea [Elim or Itfarab] 8 nVdj-Sadur 21 W£dx Amlinh [MaHhJ .. .. 20 Hila. Ain Hawtkrah [Maroh] .. .. 6 WiidyGhurundel[Elim].. ,. 7 Widy Usoit [Elim] 6 Widy Ethal 7 Wady Shebeikeh (month of) .. 4 Wady Taiyibeh (mouth oO [En- campment by the Sea] . . .. 4: Jebel el Markhah 7 SeihBab'a 6 Wady Sheiml (mouth of) ., 2 NugbBuderah 4 Wady Igne (mouth of, leading to Maghaiah) 5 W&dyMukatteb 5 WSdyFeiran 4 Feiran (El-Mahanad) [Be- phidim] 14 Wady esh Sheykh (mouth oQ fi Wady Solaf (heed of) and mouth of Nugb Hawa . , . . 15 Nugb Hawa (summit of).. .. 6 Jebel Moosa and Monastery of St. Catherine 5 161 Bmiie (S) via Sarabil tt-Khddim. Ain Mooso lo Wddy Shebeikeh (««(<■)) 79 Sarboot el-Jemel 7 WSdySuwig (mouth oO -■ -■ 13 Saribit el-Klilidim (foot of) .. 6 Debelnt Sheykh Ahmed . . . . 7 Erweis el-Ebeirig 21 Widy Solaf (head oO and mouth of Nugb Hawa .. 12 Jebel Moosa, &c., sxyi« These Egypt, ROUTE 14. — ^wiDY FEIrIn — ^JEBEL SERbXl. 345 inscriptioiis are to be found in more or less abundance all the way from Wady Igne to the head of Wddy Mukatteb, but the greater number of them occur in clusters in the space of about a mile at the lower end of this wddy. They are generally found in the lower straia of sandstone. At one time supposed to be of great antiquity, the balance of opinion now inclines to their being the work of Christian hermits and pil- grims of not earlier than the 4th cen- tury. The language in which they are written, according to Prof. Palmer, is a dialect of the Aramaic tongue, and the letters a link between the ordinary Hebrew and Kufic. The inscriptions consist generally of the writer s name, with some conventioDal formula at^ tached. From the watershed at the head of Wddy Mukatteb the view is very beautiful, presenting striking con- trasts of form and colour. On t]be E. is a magnificent red granite moun- tain, Je&eZ Merzegah, The road now descends from the watershed, and enters a wide boulder-strewn valley towards Widy 7eii6n (4 miles), the grandest of all the Sinaitic widies. About a mile up the valley, at the mouth of Wddy Nigreeriy are some stone circles and cairns, probably sepulchral monuments of a very early date. There are some 14 or 15 circles closely grouped to- gether, and of from 10 to 20 ft. in diameter. In the centre of each is a cist, aboat 4 ft. long, 2^ ft. broad, and 2} ft. deep, composed of four large stones, and a covering slab. Inside the oists have been found human bones, teeth, &o., and in one instance a smaU bracelet of copper, lance and arrow- heads, and a necklace of marine shells. Though the bones were decomposed, the outline of the body could be traced, placed cm its left side, in the bent posi- tion usually considered one of the oldest forms of burial; The Wddy Feirdn now opens out into a succession of long open reaches, with Jebel Serbdl and its neighbouring peaks filling up the background. The soil is a crisp granite gravel, with here and there tn^ strewn with boulders or ntdagle. The rich oahuriDg of the sandstone rocks is now exchanged for the somewhat more sober hues, but more varied outlines, of granite, gneiss, &c. As we advance farther the bed of the w^y narrows, and the scenery becomes grander at every step. At a sharp angle of the valley, on its right bank, is a large block of fallen granite, covered with a heap of pebbles and small stones. This is called Hesy el- Khattdteen (11 miles), and is declared by the Bedaween to be the identical rock struck- by Moses to supply the thirsty Israelites (Ex. xvii. 6). It should be noted that we are again on the most probable route taken by the Israelites, who are supposed to have come up Wady Feirdn from the sea. Contrary to most of the traditional sites in the peninsula, this rock is just where we should expect to find it. The Amalekites, encamped three miles higher up the valley at Rephi- dim (Feiran), cut off all access to the water supply there, and the eager thirst of the Israelites, after three weary marches without coming to any springs, may well at last have caused the murmurings described in the sacred narrative, when they found themselves cut off from the hoped-for oasis. The grandeur and desolation of the scenery now becomes almost overpowering, and the eye rests with pleasure on the little oasis of El'Hesweh, to be followed not long after by the welcome sight of the great palm-grove of Feiran, a rich mass of dark-green foliage winding eastward through the hills. A ruo^ged valley, Wddy Aleyat, at whose head stands Jebel Serbdl, here comes in from the south-east ; and in the centre of the open space caused by their junction stands a low hill, El-Ma- harrad (3 miles) crowned with ruins. In this pleasant oasis the traveller will pitch his tent with delight, and, if he can, devote at least one, still better two days to an examination of the surrounding district. Ascent of Jebel Serbal. — This will occupy a whole day, and shouldTiaXiViRk undertaken b^ aivj ^^^^ ^qkA ^^jSkk^.^^ and climbeia, aa VJcift ^vj \a>a»2c^ «^ toilsome, aa^ l\ia ciAMsWm.^ xskSKt \»fe 346 feOUTE 14.-^-CAIB0 TO MOUNT SIKAI. Sect. V. Bummit requires a steady head, and i some experience in mountaineering. | The ascent from Feiran will take about 6 hrs. Jebel Serbal is in many ways the most striking mountain of the peninsu- la ; it rises abruptly to a height of 4000 ft. above the valleys at its base, and its summit, a ridge about 3 miles long, is broken into a series of beautifully out- lined peaks of nearly the same height. The loftiest, 6734 ft., is towards the eastern extremity of the ridge. Some writers have identified Serb^ with the Mount Sinai of the Bible, but all the best recent authorities agree in considering that the topographical re- quirements of the Bible narrative are not met by its position. There is no large plain in its vicinity on which the Israelites could have encamped in sight of the mountain: a sufficiently fatal objection in itself. The way to Jebel Serbdl lies up the Wddy Aleydt, a broad rugged valley, with a few trees and a little herbage. At the upper part of the wady, which rises rapidly in its 3 miles' course, are some springs of cool water and a few palms. The path now enters the lower slopes of Serbal. Hence to the sum- mit basin from which the peaks rise there are two principal paths, or goat- tracks, one by a steep rocky ravine called Ahoo Hamdtah (the *' Boad of the Wild Fig-tree **), and the other and longer one by two less precipitous paths called Sikket Sadur and Sikket er- Heshshdh (" the Road of the Sweater ")• The principal peak is an enormous smooth dome of granite surrounded by a cupola of like nature. Tiie climbing here is not easy, and it is only the coarse nature of the rock, which affords a good foothold, that makes it possible to get up or down, there being nothing to cling to. In a few places there are steps of loose stones, laid probably ages ago, which make the task easier. A narrow ledge runs out from near the summit of the peak for about 50 yards, ending in a sheer precipice of 4000 ft. On this are the ruins of the lighthouse, which gives its name EU Jdadhawwa to the highest peak of Serbal. It waa one in a system of beaoon-drm kept up from MataU Hud- herah, or " Look-outs of Hazeroth,'* to Suez, and along the sea-coast. It is a rude stone structure, probably built by the same men who traced the Si- naitic inscriptions, several of which are found on the path up to the sum- mit, and in a hollow near the light- house. Capt. H. S. Palmer thus de- scribes the view from the top of Serbal : — " From the summit of Serbdl the landscape on a clear day is one of the most striking and varied, if not the most extensive in the country. Look- ing seaward, a wild chaos of rock and mountain fills the foreground : then comes the hot brown El-Ga'ah ; then Tor and its palm-groves, faintly seen, and the low coast range farther north ; then the glittering water of the gulf, backed in the far distance by grey and purple ranges of African moun- tains. Looking inland, the eye roams over an amazing complication of desert mountains and valleys — a vast net- work, of which the white and grey wady-beds, winding in fanciful snaky patterns over the whole face of the country, form the threads, while moun- tains of all sizes, forms, and hues fill the interstices; northward the fer prospect is closed by the long blank of the Tih escarpment ; the peaks of Katharina and Umm Shomer rise darkly in the south-east ; at your feet is Feiran, a thin green line of palms straggling through the hills." The derivation of the word Serbdl is, according to Professor £. H. Palmer, whose etymology has been adopted in this account of the Peninsula, firom the Arabic word sirbdl, a ** shirt "or "coat of mail," in allusion to the gushing of the waters, dining a storm, over the round smooth rod^ of the summit, which clothe it, as it were, with a shirt, or coat of mail, of glitter- ing fluid. The Rev. F. W. Holland describes the appearance of Serbal after a heavy winter rain as ** covered with a sheet of ice that glittered like a breastplate." The objects of interest close to Teii&n itself are many, but they can only be biiefiy alluded to here. The evidence \ in ia\o\u: ol SXaVaxl^ ^Isvsb Ke^bvJm of Egypt ROUTE 14. — RUINS AND OASIS OF FEIrIn. 347 the Bible has been already pointed out ; but there is one more feature, and that an im{k)rtant one, that should be mentioned. On the right bank of the wady, opposite the hillock of El-Ma- harrad, is a conical hill called Jehel 4t-Tdhooneh ("the Mountain of the Windmill") about 600 ft. high, so placed as to be in full view of the two valleys Aleyat and Feiran, where the battle between the Israelites and the Amalekites would have been fought, and accessible from a point near El Hesweb, lower down the Wady Feiran. Access to this hill would have been easy to Moses, and from its summit he could have witnessed the battle raging below (see Ex. xvii. 9-12;. An early tradition favours this view, and Antoninus Martyr (600 a.d.) states that a chapel stood on the spot from which Moses viewed the battle. Ruins of such a chapel still exist on the summit of Jebel et Tahooneh. Its aisles divided by square pillars of red sandstone can still be traced, and the form of the apse. It was afterwards altered and turned into a mosk. The whole of the path, or rather flight of steps, which leads up &omWddy Feiran to the top of Jebel et-Tahooneh is lined with the remains of small chapels, often built over the cells or tombs of an- chorites, and serving as " stations " on the way to the principal church at the summit. All this seems to prove that Jebel et-Tahooneh was regarded as a place of great sanctity by the pilgrims of early ages. The Ruins of Feirdn itself are those of the old episcopal city of Pharan, The old convent and church stand on the top of the hillock (El-Mahar- rad) alr^dy mentioned, at the junc- tion of the wadies. The principal walls of the convent still remain, built of flat stones and mud, with sun- dried bricks at the top. The church is at the northern end, and, from the number of capitals, broken shafts, and other remains found within its walls, appears to have been a building of some importance. On a low neck of land which connects the hiilot^k with the widy are the remains of the town, BvaxouDoed by a wall which was 7 ft. high ; parts of it remain, the compo- site of mud and small stones being here faced with large unhewn boulders. Both within and without the walls are the remains of buildings, and to the west, in a ** jorf " or bank of allu- vium, is the cemetery ; the tombs are partly cut perpendicularly in the face of the rock, and partly built with large stones, and the entrances are either closed by large slabs of stone, or built up with mud and stones. These tombs are often used by the Bedaween. On the right bank of the Wady Feirdn is a deserted village, which probably formed part of the old city, but which bears traces of having been occupied at a later period by a settled Arab population. The hill called Jebel el-Moneijah (the " Hill of the Conference"), in the east bank of Wddy Aleyat, is remarkable for the number of Sinaitic inscriptions found on it. There is a small enclo- sure on the top, both within and with- out which the inscriptions abound. It is looked upon by the Bedaween as a place of great sanctity, and they sacri- fice a lamb in &ont of the enclosure at the time of the date-harvest in Wady Feirdn. On both banks of Wddy Feirdn are the homes of numerous anchorites who once lived there, and sat "like a lot of rabbits at the mouths of their holes." There are also a num- ber of tombs generally with two tiers of " loculi ; " they lie almost invariably east and west, and the method of burial appears to have been to lay the bodies on their backs on the bare rock, heads to the west, feet to the east, the arms stretohed out at full length by the side. There are the remains of several monastic establishments in the neigh- bourhood of Wddy Feiran, of which the most remarl^ble are in Wady SigiUeeyeh to the south of Serbal, an almost inaccessible gorge approacl^ed by a road the construction of which, as shown by what still remains of it, proves the monks to have beexsL \j«s^K skilled aiid. «^'6t%fe>aR. m ^5aft^-'\siaiK»sj»« \ T\i«» x».\«i»\ \»«x>SCv5» cil ^^^5J**»^ ^'^ 348 ROUTE 14.— CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI. SectV. Feirfin are enongh almost to induce the traveller to spend a day in doing nothing else but give himself up to their delights. For 4 miles, beginning from the mouth of Wady Aleyat, it extends up the valley, a luxuriant mass of trees and vegetation, hemmed in between magnificent rugged granite cliffs from 600 to 800 ft. in height. Here all the trees common to the Pen- insula show at their best, and the date-bearing palm is of unusual size and fruitfulness. A varied under- growth of herbs and grasses, moss, turf, small flowers, rushes, and other marshy plants, cover the bed of the valley, save where some stone-strewn dry torrent-bed marks the course of and the ravages of recent floods, such as that which occurred in 1867. Here and there are clusters of rough Bedaween houses, with enclosed gardens, in which are grown maize and tobacco, irrigated by means of water raised by shadoofs. Through this long valley, the Para- dise of the Bedaween, the traveller bends his way on leaving Feirin, till, after about 3 miles, the palms and water cease, and the only verdure is a tama- risk-grove. In another mile this also ends, and aU is again barren and deso- late. At this point occur a series of curious alluvial deposits, consisting of banks of soil rising sometimes to a height of 100 ft., and extending along the wady's brink. By the Bedaween they are called ^^jorfs** Their origin is uncertain, but Mr. Holland attri- butes their formation to the beds of alluvium gradually formed by slowly flowing streams being washed away by the rushing torrents that sweep down the wadies during a storm. El-Buweib — an islet of gneiss in mid-channel — forms ** the gate " of Wady Feirdn, through which the road passes into the Wady Sol&f ; and a short distance farther on the mouth of Wady esh- Sheykh (6 miles) is reached. It is conjectured that the bulk of the Israelite host passed up this valley by a longer and easier route to Sinai, while Moses and the elders went by the shorter and more difficult route on which we now enter. We continue up the Widy SoUf, which opens out into long straight reaches. At the mouth of Wady Umm Tdkkeh are a number of the primitive stone houses called nawdmeeSf before alluded to. They resemble the ** bothan " or beehive houses of Scotland. Their usual shape is an ellipse or irregular circle from 40 to 50 ft. in circumference, with walls 2J to 3 ft. thick : these walls rise per- pendicularly for 2 ft., and then b^in to close in, each successive course of stone projecting slightly beyond the one below it, till only a small hole, covered with a flat stone, is left at the top. The doors are about If ft. wide, and the same in height, with lintels and doorposts. Sometimes a large granite boulder forms a portion of a wall. There is no evidence of any tool having been used in their con- struction. About 3 miles beyond these stone houses the direction of the w^y changes, and approaches the waU' of granite cliffs which form the north* western frontier of the heart of the Peninsula. Through this massive ber^' rier, 14 miles in length, and which rises some 3000 ft. above the level of Wady SoMf, there are but two open* ings ; one through the pass of Nugb el- Hawa, about half-way along the barrier, and the other through the pass of £1- Wateeyeh, in the Wady esh-Sheykh, at its extreme northern end. At the en- trance of the Nugb Hawa (14 miles) the camp will probably be pitched on the day of leaving Feiran ; and even if it should be necessary the next day to send the baggage-camels by the longer and easier route, the traveller himself vrill do well to follow the magnificent approach by Vugb Hawa (" the Pass of the Wind"). At the turn from Wddy SoWf are some stone circles and natcd- mees. The foot of the pass is about a mile from the wddy. The first part of the ascent is steep and diflScult, and winds up an ancient road in and out amongst tremendous blocks and boulders detached from the heights and precipices which hem in the defile. A few wild fig-trees and stunted palmS; witU Btragg\Mi^ ^\,(i\iaft ol "H^^<5^aitlQiiv» mark the bed of t EOUTE 14. — PLAIK OF ES-RAHAH. 349 After a { Jtbol Sutsafeh only 2 miles off, and nme tne ascent bccomea less st^p, \ ttie monastory of St. Ctttberine neat- and after a long 2 bonra' climb Oie I ling in the Wady od-Dayt, lies spread emnniitofthe pass (5 miles) is reached, out before the ustonisJicd gaze. "It is Bad the clifia of Bus SufsECfeh are seen a view wiiich, once seen, is not tikel; closing the prospect in the far dis- 1 to be foigott^. Indeed the wbole pro- tnnoe. Aftet a short descent the path i speet fmm Uiis point is so beautiful rises again along the Wads Mmo and saliiiuio that no belioldt-r ciin fail Heileh, wliicli soon widuna into a pliiiii. to bo impressi'd by it. It ia wi»»&. and tlien the crest of the hill is renched unrivalled; I'newi \% TwiClivp.^ sSib's^ (iS140 ft. aboTO the leyel of the Beii), it in tYvvi ot mi's dCact V'-'^ .** ^, «iid ihs wboU phua of £r>B«Uh, with \ PeniasQ\Bi— &« Vi'o* f'^&a v*™. «™*- 350 ROUTE 14. — CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI. Sect. V- ing down to the mount, the grand outlines of the surrounding hills, and the stately clifib of the E^ Sufsafeh, the * brow ' of Sinai or Jebel Moosa, overlooking and seen from every point in the plain below, the most conspi- cuous and imposing feature in a land- scape where all is grand.*' — Capt. H, S, Palmer, Crossing Er-Rahiih we reach the foot of Ras Sufsafeh, and leaving the Wady esh Sheykh on the left continue up the Wady ed-Dayr to the walls of the Monastery of St. Catherine (5 miles) ; unless indeed the traveller decides to encamp, rather than seek the hospitality of the monks, in which case the tents will probably be pitched at the entrance of the Wady ed Dayr. Before proceeding to describe the convent, and Jebel Moosa and its neighbourhood, it may be well to give a short account of the other route, which leaves the one already noticed at Wddy Shebeikeh, and rejoins it at the Nugb Hawa, Boute (jS). On leaving W^dy Shebeikeh the road turns up Wddy Hamr, a fine open valley with low chalk cliffs, till it reaches the base of Sarboot el-Jemel (7 miles), a ridge of limestone and flint conglomerate rising 1200 feet above the valley. Passing round this moun- tain to the south-east, the wddy con- tracts again between sandstone rocks on which are some Sinaitic inscriptions, and opens on to the great sandy plain of Dehbet er-Bamleh, Tiie way lies along the western side of this plain, gradually ascending a terraced rocky tract till about midway the highest point is reached (1797 feet), com- manding a fine view of the plain stretching eastward, with the lofty Tih escarpment beyond, and on the south the mountains of Wady Nasb and Sarabit el-Khadim. A steep de- scent now leads to Wady JSubba, and then after a short time an open seih is jvached, formed by tlie confluence of ^ve wddies. This point forms the nortli-westeni limit of the Egyptian mining colony, which, extending south- wards to Magharah (see Rte. (a) ) and eastwards to Sarabit el-Khadim, is the most interesting in the country for an archaeologist A short distance from the road to the right, up Wady Nasb, are some old mine-workings and slag heaps. It is the great watering-place of this district, and the water is ex- cellent. We now leave the plain and turn up Wady Sawig (13 miles), a winding valley cut through sandstone. Leaving the baggage-camels to proceed along an easier route by Wady Mery to Wady Khameeleh, the traveller toils through deep sand to the mouth of the small rocky ravine which leads to Sarabit el- Khddim (6 miles). Here even the riding-camels must be left, and the rest of the distance done on foot There is a fifteen or twenty minutes' walk up the wady, and then a half-an- hour's tiresome climb up a rough in- cline, surmounted by a steep sandstone cliff. On the top of the plateau, which is 700 feet above the wady, are the Buins of Sar&bit el-Eh&dixn. — These consist of two temples of different dates: the earlier merely a rock-hewn chamber with an open vestibule in front; the later a large building, connected with the former, but not in the same straight line with it. Both appear to have been reconstructed. In the centre of the rock-hewn chamber a square pillar of solid rock has been leA to support the roof; both this and the walls of the chamber were formerly covered with hieroglyphics and coloured. At the end of the chamber are two re- cesses ; one of which, formerly provided with a door, leads to a small space roofed over with large flat slabs ; near this is another rock-hewn chamber, and in front of the two stretches an open court, the walls of which are covered with sculptured scenes. In this court are some stelm, which appear to have beeu removed from their ori- ginal position. The later temple con- sists of a large square court, with fiagmeiitB o^ i^illars and Athor-headed capVta\&, «bii^ ol ^ \aw^ \iV£^^2a\.^ di-*. EgypU ROUTE 14.- BUINS OF SARABIT EL-KHADIM. 351 yided into nnmerons small chambers. At the end nearest the rock-hewn temple is a large gateway. The walls are covered with tablets and inscrip- tions, and the whole must have been very fine when perfect; at present it is one mass of ruin. Eound the temples are long heaps of stone, the remains probably of enclosing walls. The whole is much buried in sand, and Col. C. W. Wilson, from whose ac- count the above description is taken, thinks that excavating would bring a good many things to light. The little digging done by the Ordnance Survey resulted in the finding of a smnll gold ornament, a few scarabsei, broken necklaces, frao:ments of pottery, &c. The number of sUIsr is remarkable. It appears, according to Dr. Birch, that the colony of Sarabit el-Rhadim dates from a later epoch than that of Maghdrah. Amenemha^ II. of the Xllth Dynasty was the first to open the mines, and found the temples. His name is cut on the face of the rock near the temple. There are many other tablets with the names of other kings of that dynasty, Amenemhat III. and IV. Like MagMrah, Sardbit el Khiidim was abandoned from the Xllth to the XVIIIth Dynasties. Thothmes III. then recommenced working the mines, and was followed by Thothmes IV. and Amunoph III. The kings of the XlXth Dynasty, especially Sethi I. and Rameses U., have nearly all left records here. Though the temple was probably founded during the Xllth Dynasty, the first name found on it ia Thothmes III., and other monarchs follow down to Barneses IV., includ- ing Meneptah, the Pharaoh of the Eiuxliifi. Athor is the principal divi- nity, with Set and Knum. Tnere are many tablets and inscriptions cut in tne sandstoue of the mining district which surrounds Sardbit el Betuming to Wddy Suwig, which gradually becomes broad and steep, Uie road lies through heavy burning sand to the foot of N\Mh Suwig, A winding rocky trail leads to the sommifyaod iben we descend again by a rugged path into Wddy Khamedeh, at which point comes in the road followed- by the baggage-camels. A short way farther on, on the right- hand side, are two large rocks with Sinaitic iuscriptions. Continuing up the north branch of Wady Khameeleh we reach a small sandy plain, called Deh^bat Sheykh Ahmed {7 miles) from a Bedawee saint who lies buried in the tomb by .the wayside. Just beyond the mouth of Wddy Meraikh are some nawdmees (see Rte. a) and circular tombs. W&dy Bark, up which the road now turns, is a long broad valley, steep and rocky, with a number of fine seydl 'treen. The sandstone is here exchanged for gneiss. Five miles up Wady Bark is a wall of loose stones, built by the Bedaween to keep out Mohammed Ali*s soldiery. At the top of the valley is a group of na" wdmeea. W&dy Labweh is a broad open valley with a granite gravel soil. About 1^ mile up it, on the left of the road, is a cleft in a large rock, contain- ing a spring of cool delicious water ; it is called Shcigeek d-Ajooz (** the Old Woman's Rift"), Granite rocks now succeed to gneiss, and the wady expands into an open plain, two miles wide, well clothed with desert herbage. The plain again contracts, and, crossing the watershed, the road enters Widy Berrfih, in a side valley to the N. of which there is good water. Two miles up this valley is a rock, called Hajar eULaghwehy with Sinaitic in- scriptions ; and three miles farther on we reach the feature from which the wady derives its name, " the Valley of the tassers-Out" — two massive bluffs of red granite, standing: like gigantic sentinels, through which we pass out bv a narrow gorge into a wide plain called Erweis d-Erbeirig (21 miles); not to be confused with a spot of the same name near Ain Hudherah. A road leswls hence to El-Buweib in Wady Feiran, eight miles off. From Erweis el-Erbeirig, which commands a fine view of SetV^i.V^^'Sk pass by the Wdd-y SoleiJ *\\\\ft\N\^^aa.>j esh-Sheykli, vcA W\k^sxL^ \s^ VJaa ^6^^ I Sahab to iiva YxeaA o^ Wad-ii So\aS «^^ 352 EOUTB 14:.^-CAIR0 TO MOUNT SINAI. Sect. V. the mouth of Ntigh Haioa (12 miles). The road hence to Jebel Moosa has been described under Bte. (a). i. History and Description op the Convent. History. — The first settlement of Christian communities in Sinai pro- bably took place durinpf the persecu- tions which raged in Egypt and Syria in the 2nd and 3rd centuries. There is no doubt that during the 4th cen- tury Jebel Moosa and the neighbour- ing mountains swarmed with hermits, who in 373 were attacked by the Arabs and great numbers slain. The con- vent of Dayr Arbdeen in the Wady Lejd is said to commemorate the death of 40 of them. After this they seem to have chiefly settled at Feiran and Mount Serbal. They had so far re- covered themselves in the 6th century that a legate appeared at the Council of Constantinople in 536 to represent " Holy Mount Sinai." Six years pre- viously, i. e. in .530, according to Pro* copius, Justinian founded on tlie slope of Jebel Moosa a church, dedicated to the Virgin, and a fortress to protect the monks from the Saracens. The fortress is no doubt the present con- vent. From that period Feirdn de- clined in importance, and in the 10th cent, the episcopal seat was transferred to Sinai Within their stronghold the monks were able to resist the attacks of the marauding Arabs, whose habits of persecution were not changed by their conversion to Islam. They were protected too, generally, by the rulers of Egypt, who gave them certain privileges, some of which they still enjoy. In the 14th cent. Rudolph von Suchem, who visited the convent, stated that it contained 400 monks, under an archbishop. There were also at that time six other convents in the Peninsula, and many hermit- ages. In the 17th cent, there only remained the community of Sinai, dwindled down to 60 monks ; and now jt contains but 20 or 30. TJie monastery is nominally pre- i mded oyer by an archbishop. He ia^ elected bv the monks themselves from among the priests of the convent, but the election must be confirmed by the Patriarch of Jerusalem. The local head of the monastery is the prior. The rule of the monks is very strict. No meat and wine are allowed, and during fasts butter, milk, and even oil are forbidden; they are however allowed to drink a very strong spirit distilled from dates {drakee). The services are long and frequent, the Greek ritual being performed eight times in the 24 hours, and every one must be present at least four tunes, twice during the day and twice during the night. Most of the monks are quite uneducated, the lay brothers being recruited from the lowest class of Greek peasants. They all follow some trade, which their situation compels them to take up — baker, gardener, cook, shoemaker, &c Now and then an intelligent monk may be found there, undergoing a period of .banishment from his own convent. Description. — There is no difSculty in obtaining admission to the convent, if the visitor is provided with the proper letter of introduction, already alluded to (p. 331) It is no longer necessary to enter by the trap-door in the wall, some 30 feet above the ground, up to which all who sought admittance were formerly hauled by a rope. The present entrance is by a low door in one of the buttresses on the north side of the convent, through which a short vaulted passage leads to a postern in the convent wall. The ancient en- trance is a little to the right, in the centre of the north face, and is a fine door 7 feet wide, but it has for many years been closed with masonry. Above the lintel is a relieving aich, and over this a machicoulis, in which is a tablet with a Greek inflcrip- tion not hitherto deciphered. Aa the machicoulis and the inscription both belong to the period at whicn the monastery was built, it is to be hoped that some one will succeed in reading the inscription. There are other tftbletfi above the buttress in whidh is Egyj^t. ROUTE 14. — CONVENT OF ST. CATHERINE. 353 in Greek and Arabic giving the his- tory of the building of the convent by Justinian. The whole of the north wall is much cracked, and the masonry concealed by rubble heaped against it. The top is modem. The east wall, in which is the trap-door mentioned above, was almost rebuilt at the end of the last century by the orders of General Kleber, and an inscription in modern Greek on a small tablet in one of the round towers commemorates the fact. The south wall has also been partially rebuilt, and is supported with buttresses ; along the top is a covered passage forming a pleasant promenade. The west wall, owing to its position, is the best preserved, and shows how strong ana massive the old building was. Numerous crosses and other de- vices are seen in the covering stones of the loopholes. The original form of the building was an irregular quad- rangle, with slightly projecting towers at each angle, and in tne east, west, and south sides. Its position was probably determined by the abundant water-supply in the neighbourhood, and the existence near it of the tra- ditional site of the Burning Bush, and the chapel and tower built by order of the Empress Helena. Having passed through the entrance, which is protected by no less than three doors, and is so narrow that only one man can enter at a time, the visitor finds himself in the interior, and will probably be conducted at once to the guest chambers high up over the north wall. Here, if he meaus to remain in the convent, he will take up his abode. Lodging, bread, and water are what the convent provides for its guests, so of course servants and food will have to be taken in. A backsheesh of about £1 a head is expected when the traveller leaves, over and above what his dragoman may have given for the things provided. Originally the interior was laid out with great regularity, but there are few signs of the old plan still re- maining. The following is a graphic description of the general view. '* Though the interior presents a scene ci ibe mo0t bopeleaa oonhudon when [^pt^FT. IL] looked down upon from the guest chambers, there is not wanting a certain quaint picturesqueness and charm, which is heightened in spring by the bright green of the trellised vines. Two tiers of loopholes are still visible in the west wall, and some few of the vaults and arches within remain intact, but they are for the most part broken down and filled with all manner of filth. Over, above, and within them are the buildings of after ages, mosques, chapels, bakeries, distilleries, and stables, some themselves gone to ruin, and serving as foundations for still later erections of mud and sun- dried bricks, which are daily adding their mite to the general confusion. The quadrangle is now completely filled with buildings, and through them, turning and twisting in every direction, now ascending, now de- scending, exposed to the full force of the sun, or passing through dark tunnels, is a perfect labyrinth of narrow passages." — Col, C, W, Wilson. The Church, which is remarkable for its massive grandeur, was built during the reign of Justinian. The exterior bears signs of extensive altera- tions; a new porch has been added which almost conceals the original west porch and its window ; the south wall has been raised, and the east end partially rebuilt. There were probably two towers at the west end : that at the south-west comer is a distinct build- ing, and was perhaps built as a place of refuge before the existence of the convent ; and if so, it may be a rem- nant of the tower of Helena, which Justinian enclosed, with the place of the Burning Bush, within the convent. The church has three aisles, separated by two rows of granite columns; at the eastern end of the centre aisle is a large apse ; the other aisles are closed by widls, through which are doors leieiding to two chapels; one of the Holy Father, on the north, and the other of 8t. James the Less, on the south. From either of these there is aiESA^^i&Si^ the Chapel oi \2tL'e^\amTi\5,*^\isSEk.^»^»^ 354 ROUTE 14. — CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI. Sect. V. are three chapels in each side aisle, ttiose on the north below the level of the floor, and those on the south above it. The capitals of the columns are of various designs, no two alike. The mosaic over the apse represents the Transfiguration. Our Saviour is in the centre, Elias on the right, Moses on the left, St. Peter lying at his feet, and St. James and St. John kneeling on either side. Round the whole are a series of busts of prophets, saints, &c., each with his name written in Greek ; and beyond, on the face of the wall is a border, with figures of dodo- like birds. On the wall above the apse are two representations of Moses, one at the Burning Bush, and the other at the Receiving of the Law; and beneath these are two portraits, said to be those of the Emperor Jus- tinian and his wife Theodora, but they bear no resemblance to the known portraits of either. Close to the altar is a chest containing the skull and hand of St. Catherine, and beneath it a marble slab with two ibexes in relief at the foot of the cross. The altar- screen is profusely ornamented, and a large cross with a painting of the Cru- cifiion towers above it. The walls are covered with the quaint pictures ususdly seen in Greek churches, and hung with banners, and from the roof hang gold and silver lamps of great beauty. Between the columns are the wooden stalls of the monks, and the elaborately carved thrones of the Patri- arch and Bishop, in one of which is a painting representing the convent be- fore the round towers were added. In the Chapel of the Burning Bush is shown the place where the bush stood, now covered with a silver plate ; and in the wall is a little window through which the sun's rays are said to fall once in the year. The floor, lower than that of the church, is richly carpeted, and the walls are covered with pic- tures and encaustic tiles. Two splen- did coffined Effigies of 8t, Catherine are kept here ; one given by the Em- press Catherine, and the other by the preBent Emperor of Russia, Alexander IT. On the two dne old wooden dooia ^ which the church, is entered are a variety of devices cut in panels, and several coats of arms, the work pro- bably of pilgrims. On the archway near the mosque, and in the north wall of the refectory are the arms and names of pilgrim knights, some dating back to the 14th and 15th cents. Near the church is a Mosque with a minaret : a singular proof, it has been said, of the tolerance, perhaps of the fear, of the Christian communities of this land ; it contains an old wooden pulpit with a Kufic inscription. The Library, which is neatly ar- ranged, contains a number of Greek printed books and Arabic MSS. It was here that Tischendorf discovered the famous MS. of the Bible which has been called the Codex Sinaiticus. The two curiosities shown to strangers are a beautifully illuminated MS. of tiie Gospels, written on vellum in letters of gold ; and a copy of the Psalms written by a female, said to be St. Thecla, in so small a hand that it can only be read through a microscope. On the north side of the convent is a courtyard, and beyond are the Gardens, full of trees and luxuriant vegetation, a charming picture of life and beauty set in the surrounding de- solation. In the middle of the garden is the Charnel-house, consisting of a small chapel and two long vaults ; one containing the bones of monks and pilgrims, the other those of priests and bishops. The bodies are first buried for a year or so in a patch of garden, and then the bones are collected and placed in the vaults. "The bLshops and saints, with the exception of St. Stephen the porter, who sits in ghastly magnificence with his gorgeous robes round him, are ranged in wooden boxes with their respective names on slips of paper ; the bones of the more humble brethren are piled ,* in two heaps, the skulls on one side, the arms, thighs, &c., on the other. In one of the boxes are the skeletons of two Indian princes, with fragments of well-made link-armour which they are said to have worn during the yeaia tYiey ^j^aaaed as hermits on Jebd \M.ooaa; ^ex^ \& «\sK^«.<^idiaiisAdfi of Egy;pt. ROUTE 14. — ^JEBEL MOOSA AND HAS SUFSAFEH. 366 iron nails, roughly bent, and weighing about fifteen pounds, which bound them together in life as it does now in death. There are also leathern scourges, iron necklets and girdles, and other remi- niscences of the days when the moun- tain side was covered with hermitages." h. The Ascent of Jebel Moosa and Bab Sufsafeh. This is one of the excursions in the neighbourhood of the convent to which the traveller will certainly devote a day. Several paths lead up to the sum- mit of Jebel Moosa, but the one usually followed goes up a rude glen at the back of the convent, and is called Sikket Seyyidna Moosa, ** the Path of our Lord Moses." A lay- brother, or an Arab, is furnished by the convent as guide. There is a flight of rocky steps nearly the whole way, which renders the ascent easy. The first object of interest is Mayan Mooaa (" the Fountain of Moses"), a de- licious spring of cool water which rises beneath a huge granite boulder, and is surrounded by a fringe of maiden-hair fern. According to the Bedaween, it was here that Moses watered Jethro's flocks ; monkish tradition makes it the abode of St. Stephen the cobbler. The path leads up through a narrow ravine, over huge boulders of granite to what is called the Chapel of the Virgin of the CEconomoH or Bursar^ a smaU building of unhewn stone, erected to commemorate the miraculous extir- pation of fleas from the convent — a miracle which most visitors will agree in thinking needs repetition. The road DOW iums to the nght, and ascends shaiply to a cleft in the rock, spanned by a circular arch with a cross on either face. Here sat St. Stephen the porter and his successors and shrived the pilgrims, who passed on repeating Ps. xxiv. 3, 4, "Who shall ascend into the hill of the Lord," &c. A little £Birther on is another gateway, and then a smidl plain at the foot of the pe«k of Jebel Moosa is reached. Here is a ruined garden, a solitary enxeurtree, and a building containing the Chmpels of EUjah and Misha. Monkish tradition points out a small grot in which the former lived (1 Kings xix. 8, 9). From this point a stiff half hour's climbing takes one to the top of Jebel Hoosa. On the way we pass the footprints of the prophefs camel, and a stone said to mark the spot where Elijah was turned back as unworthy to tread the holy ground above. On the top are two buildings, a chapel and a mosque, both built of stones taken from the ruins of an early convent. Tra- dition places the chapel near the "clift of the rock" where Moses was when the glory of the Lord passed by (Ex. xxxiii. 22), and says the cave beneath the mosque was where he passed the forty days and forty nights. The smnmit of Jebel Moosa is 7375 feet above the sea. The term "Jebel Moosa" may be ap- plied to the whole ridge, of which this is the highest peak, but by the monks and Bedaween the term is confined to the summit on which we now stand. The upper portion is of grey granite, the lower of red. On the south side is a sheer descent of more than 1000 feet. There are few who will not wish to continue the excursion to BUs Sufsa- feh, the presumed Mount of the Law. Descending the peak of Jebel Moosa by the same path to the plain in which are the chapels of Elijah and Elisha, we turn to the left, and scramble for a mile through a sort of rocky groove that runs along the top of the ridge; then, after passing the ozier, or willow, which gives its name to Bds Sufsdfeh, comes a climb of several hundred feet up a rugged ravine, and then the summit ridge is reached, situated in a deep cleft be- twen high walls of rock. From this point the whole of the plain of Er- Kah^ is distinctly visible. That Rds Sufsdfeh has the best claims to be con- sidered as the Mt. Sinai has been already pointed out, and as we stand here the peculiar fitness of the place demon- strates itself most unmistakeably. Here we have a mountain summit overlooking a p\«iTL--'^'^fij8>iQis5Kir-si< ^i.^'i* 356 ROUTE 14. — CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI. Sect. V. sq. yards in the Wddy ed-Dayr, all in full view of the mountain, and capable of holding three millions of people, while the valleys in the im- mediate neighbourhood afford plenty of extra camping space. Eveiy other requirement of the Bible narrative is equally well met ; and if everything that took place during the year of the Israelites' sojourn in Mt. Sinai must be minutely localised, there seems little difficulty in doing so. But whether every small detail can be made to rightly fit in and harmonise seems but a small matter ; no one can fail to realise how suited is the whole of the magnificent scenery around him to be the theatre of the majestic and awful events described in the sacred narrative. The descent into the plain below may be made from B^s Sufsafeh to Aaron's Hill, but it is rather steep and rugged, I. Ascent of Jebel Katabeena. This is a pretty good climb, and an early start should be made. Passing down the Wddy ed-Dayr, the road skirts the base of Kas Sufsafeh, and turns up the W&dy el-Lej&. On the way are passed various objects which monMsh legends have connected with events in the Bible. First there is a rock called "the Mould of the Calf," but which the Bedaween name simply Nugr el'Baggary "the Cows' Hole," saying that it was caused by Moses thrusting his staff into the stone to procure water for his cow : the name, however, and the presence of a hill dose by called Haroon, has suggested the connecting it with the story of the Golden Calf. Then comes the " Burial place of the Tables of the Law," and 'Hhe Cave of l^orah, Dathan, and Abiram." A little distance up the Wddy el-Leja is a " Stone of Moses,** called by the Bedaween Hajar el Magareen, "the Stone of the United Ones,** from Moses having severed it with his sword. At the head of Wddy el-Lejd is the Dayr el-Arhdeen tbe "Convent of the Forty," so called J5wa2 being dedicated to 40 monks ^lice sJain bjr the Bedaween, Itisno^ deserted, but a few Arabs keep up the cultivation of the gardens. The road now turns south-west along a dark rocky glen called Shagg Moosa, running far up into the north-eastern slopes of Jebel Katareena. A mile or two farther on, the path leaves the ravine, and hence- forward it is a tiring heavy climb up an abrupt and crumbling mountain- side to the foot of the rocky summit cone. On the way a beautiful spring, Mayan esh-Shinndr (*'the Fountain of the Partridge "), is ptissed. The peak is a huge naked block of syenite granite, steep, but so broken that there is no danger or diflBculty in climbing it. On the top is a little chapel dedicated to St. Catherine, whose headless body is said to have been carried by angels to the top of the mountain from Alexandria, where she suffered mar- tyrdom early in the 4th centy. This peak of Jebel Katareena proper is 8536 feet high, but what may be con- sidered its twin peak, Jehel Zebeer, is slightly higher, 8551 feet. "As its peak is aU but the loftiest, so is the view from Jebel Katareena one of the finest in the country. From this high and freezing standpoint you may, on any clear day, look down upon three-fourths of the Peninsula of Sinai, from Jebel Hammam Pharoon on the north-west to the mountains of Wady el-Ain on the north-east ; from Jebel Moosa and Ras Sufsafeh, which seem quite close to your side, and the labyrinth of monster mountains spread out like a model at your feet, to the glimmering water of the twin Gulfs, and the hills of Arabia and Africa spread out beyond them on either hand. Jebel Zebeer and Jebel Umm Shomer slightly spoil the view south- ward, and little can be seen beyond the Tih escarpment on the north ; but in all other quarters the prospect is most extensive. Bds Mohammed is not to be seen, though you can trace the two arms of the Red Sea almost to their point of jimction. The whole pro- spect is magnificent, grander even than that from Serbal ; the efiects of colour, light, and abode excite the admiration \ oi e^erj ttweMet; \!tife w^wa^owland. Egiff^L ROUTE 14. — OTHER EXCITRSIONS. 357 sky, and sea are simply enchanting, and the intense stillness and silence of the desert lends mystery and solem- nity to the scene. But it is at sunrise or sunset that a Sinai mountain land- scape is seen to its greatest perfection. Perhaps the hour of sunset is to be preferred to any other. Then you have orange, pink, green, and blue in the sky ; indigo, lilac and rich red-brown, like burnished copper, on the hills; colours ever changing and deepening, shadows ever lengthening, as the sim slowly declines." — Capt H, 8. Palmer. From the summit of Jebel Kata- reena you may go on to Jebel Zebeer, and, crossing that, bear eastwards across the high ground at the head of the ravines that drain northwards into Widy Lej&. Gradually shape your coarse northwards along the high ridge at the south of Jebel Moos€^ and thns descend to «7e&eZ Moneijah. This, though a little longer in distance, is an easier descent, and in the evening the sunset lights over J^bd elAlowee are most beautiful. The road is little known, but easy to find. m. Other Exctjbsions. If there is time to spare, a day may be occupied in one or two in- teresting walks in the neighbourhood of the Convent. There are good views of the convent and the valley in which it stands from the top of Je5eZ Moneijah, a conical hill at the bead of W6dy ed-Dayr, and from Jebel ed-Dayr on the east of the widy. Per- haps uie finest mountain scenery in the Peninsula is to be found in the gOTges of the Wddy eirTldh and the W&y Endeisah, which lie to the west of Er-Rahah and Nugb Hawa. An excursion to Umm Shomer will take three or four days. The road passes over Jebel Moneijah, and then descends into the Wddy Sebdeeyeh, which it follows to its h^. It then descends a steep ravine, and ascending a valley reaches Wddy JRahabeh. At the end of this wady is a little ravine called Wddy Zaytoaneh, from the great olive-tree in it. Here the mmeJ3 mngt be left, and the ascent of | Umm Sholner, a three or four hours' climb, performed on foot. The distance from the convent to Wddy Zay tooneh is 16 or 17 miles by the direct road over Jebel Moneijah, but baggage-camels are sometimes obliged to t^ke a longer and easier road. The first ascent of 1000 feet from the Wddy Zaytooneh brings you to the summit of Jebel Aboo Skeger, You then descend a steep ravine, cross a ridge to its farther side, and then a difficult climb of 1800 feet brings you to the highest point of Umm Shomer, 8449 feet. Tor may be reached by this route, continuing from Wady Bahabeh down some steep passes into the Gaah. The distance altogether from the convent is 48 miles. A longer but easier road, 53^ miles, passes down the Nugb Hawa, the Wddy Soldf, and the Wddy Hebrdn, into the Gdah. Tor is little more than a dirty village, and contains nothing of interest. There are remains of convents in the neighbourhood, and an old fortress on the sea-shore. Six or seven miles from Tor is a curious mountain caUed Jebel Ndgoos. It takes its name — ''the BeU Moimtain,'* or, more correctly, the ** Gong Mountain *' — ^from the pe- culiar noises which are heard arising from it, and which somewhat resemble the sound of the wooden gong (ndgoos) used in the Greek convents for sum- moning the commimity. On the side of Jebel Ndgoos is a triangular sand- slope, filling a recess in the sandstone hills. It is about 195 feet high, 80 yards wide at the base, and narrows off towards the top. The cliffs rise about 200 feet above it. The sand is caused by the waste of the sandstone rocks. Being at so high an angle, the slightest cause sets the sand in motion, and it is this movement of the surface-sand which produces the sound above re- ferred to. n. Continuation of the JornNEY BT THE Long Desert via Akabah AND Petra, or >r\t '5J.kHs:u» '^^ PAusarctsaiL. 368 ROUTE 14. — CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI. Sect. V. journey through the desert to Akabah and Petra (Wady Moosa), and thence to Hebron, will find that journey de- scribed in the Handbook to Syria and Palestine, It will be sufficient here to add a few additional hints to those already given at the beginning, and conduct the traveller a short distance on the way. It is necessary to make every possible inquiry at Cairo as to the practicability of getting to Petra. If there is any chance of the road being open, the Sheykh of the Alo- ween — tiie tribe which can best con- duct the traveller from Akabah to Petra, and thence to Hebron — ^is gene- rally to be found at Cairo in the winter and early spring ; and from him all information can be obtained, and an engagement made with him under the sanction of the Consul to provide camels and an escort, and guarantee a safe passage, and as long a time as possible rs days) at Petra. A back- sheesh 01 so much a head, probably 3Z., has to be paid to the fellaheen of Petra for the permission to stay there. As the Bedaween of Arabia Petraea are a much more turbulent lot than the Towarah who conduct the traveller to Sinai and Akabah, it may be useful to say a little about their habits and ways, and the best method of dealing mth them. It sometimes happens that a travel- ler is stopped on the road by what is said to be a party of hostile Arabs, and obliged to pay a sum of money, as he supppses, to save his Hfe, or to secure the continuation of his journey in safety. Everybody who knows Arab customs must be aware that no one of a hostile thbe can ever enter the terri- tory of any other Arabs without the Insult being avenged by the sword; and it is evident, if no resistance is made on the part of those who conduct the traveller, that the attacking party are either some of their own, or of a friendly, tribe who are allowed to spoil mm by the very persons he pays to protect him; for an Arab would rather die than suffer such an affront from a hostile tribe in his own desert. Jj^ then. Ma Arabs do not fight on the occasioD, he may be aure it is a trick to extort money ; he should, therefore, use no arms against the supposed enemies, but afterwards punish his faithless guides by deducting the sum taken from their pay; and it is as well, before starting, to make them enter into an engagement that they are able as well as willing to protect him. Any idea of travelling with one tribe through a desert belonging to another, when they are not on friendly terms, should never be entertained. There is another disagreeable thing to which travellers are sometimes ex- posed. Two parties of the same tribe quarrel for the right of con- ducting him; and after he has gone some distance on his journey, he and his goods are taken by the opposition candidates, and transferred to their camels. The war is merely one of words, which the inexperienced in the language cannot imderstand ; but he fully comprehends the annoyance of being nearly pulled to pieces by the two rivals, and his things are some- times thrown on the ground, to the utter destruction of everything fragile. This may not occur, but it is as well to provide against it before starting, and a sheykh or guide should be secured who has decided authority, and can overawe all parties. Above all things it is important to secure the goodwill of the Arabs, on whom so much of the comfort of a journey necessarily depends. And nothing is easier. It can, of course, be better done if the traveller speaks Arabio; and it will then probably be his own fault if he meet with anything but good humour and willingness to oblige on every occasion. In engaging Arabs application is made to one of the sheykhs; and when one has been found who has good recommendations, and his ser- vices have been engaged, it is only necessary to go to the Consulate and have the agreement officially drawn up, in which the proper prices, and otiier particulars, are stipulated. The road from Sinai to Akabah paBses down the Wddy esh-Sheykh as tat aa t\ift ViXQ\> ol IS^ SaleU. TUe Egyj[>t. BOUTE 14. — DESERT JOURNEY CONTINUED. 359 festival of this saint is a great event for the Towdrah Bedaween, who flock to the tomb from all parts of the pen- insula, and encamp round it for three days. Leaving the Wady e^-Sheykh, and passing up the ravine of Aboo Suweirah^ the main watershed of the peninsula is crossed, and after tra- versing an open tract we reach the gorge of Wady Saal, 13 miles from the Convent. Sixteen miles farther on a sandy tract with blackish mounds, called Enoeis el-Ebevrig^ is reached, a spot identified by Professor Palmer with Kibroth-hattaavah of the Bible (Numb. xi. 34). He is strengthened in this conclusion by a tradition of the Bedaween, which says that the erec- tion of rough unhewn stones on a neighbouring hill, surmounted with a white pyramid-shaped block, and the numerous stone enclosures all around, are the remains of an encampment of pilgrims, who in remote ages pitched their tents here on the way to Haze- roth, and were lost immediately after- wards, and never more heard of. The road now leads across a desolate sandy plain with a few isolated rocks, some of which are covered with Sinai- tio inscriptions. The principal of these is called Eudhmbat elrHajjdj (« the Pilgruns' Hill"). The ordinary road to Akabah here enters Wady Ohazdieh, and descends to its junction with the oasis of Wddy el-Ain, and thence down the magnificent gorge of Wddy Weteer to the Gulf of Aka- bah. If, however, we wish to reach Ain Hudherah, the probable Haze- roth of the Bible, we turn to the left, and soon meet a magnificent gorge, in which nestles the dark-green palm- grove of Ain Hudherah. There are remains of old walls, an aqueduct, and many Greek and Sinaitic inscrip- tions. On a hill at the east side of the cliff is a building which may have been a beacon, and gives its name to the spot, Mdtdli Hudherah, ''the Hazeroth Look-outs." The journey &om Mount Sruai to Akabah takes 6 days : from Akabah to Pctra by the Wddy el-Arabah 4 days, by the upper road 5 days : and from Petra to Hebron 6 days. If on arriving at Akabah it should be found that something has happened since leaving Cairo to render the Petra route impracticable, the traveller must turn aside to Nahkl, 4 days' journey, and thence to Hebron, 7 days. It is better to make sure of the Petra route by sending, as soon as Mount Sinai is r^iched, a man to Akabah to in- quire if all is tranquil. He will be met coming back with an answer sometime probably during the third day's journey from Sinai to Akabah, and if it be unfavourable an alteration in the route can be made at once. From Sinai direct to Palestine md Nahkl is a route which presents no object of Interest to the ordinary tra- veller : he had much better return to Suez, and go thence, i7ta Port Said and the sea, to Jaffa. ( 360 ) SECTION VI. THE DESEBT WEST OF THE NILE, AHD THE FAYOOH- PAGE BovTE 15. Cairo to the Natron Lakes and Monaste- ries 360 16. Alexandria or Cairo to the Oasis of See- 'wah or Ammon « . 366 j» PAGE BouTB 17. Cairo to the Little Oasis, the Great Oasis, and the Oasis of Dakhleh, by the Fayoom .... 368 „ 18. Cairo to the Fayoom. 376 ROUTE 15. CAIRO TO THE NATRON LAKES AND MONASTERIES o. Preliminary Hints, h. General Description of the Wddy Natrdon. c. Boute to, and Description of, the Monasteries. a. Preldonaby Hints. This excursion does not present any great attraction to the general tra- veller; but those "who care for old Christian architecture and antiquities will find much to interest them in the monasteries. It may be done, if time is an object, in 6 days, thus : — 1st day, Cairo to Teraneh, or Beni Salameh ; 2nd, Terdneh or Beni Salameh to Dayr Macarius ; 3rd, Dayr Macarius to Dayr Suriani and Amba Bishoi ; 4th, Dayr Suriani to Dayr Baramoos, and thence to the huts at the end of one of the lakes; 5th^ end of the lake to Terdneh : ^/4 Teraneh to Cairo, There is a/so a direct route from Cairo across the desert by the Bahr el-Fargh, which takes 16 hrs. It is not al^ lutely necessary to take tents, as ac- commodation can be had at Terdneh, and at the Dayrs, and the huts at Ihe end of the lake afford shelter for the night spent there ; but it is decidedly more comfortable to be provided with your own sleeping quarters. Provi- sions must be taken. h. General Descbiftiok of the Wady Natb6on. W&dy Katrdon was known anciently as the district of Nitria, or NitHotUj and sometimes as the desert of St. Macarius, whose monastery still re- mains there. The vestiges of pagan date are rare ; and it is difiBcult to fix the position of the 2 towns of Nitriotis, the only ancient remains being ^e glass-house of Zakook, and some heaps of pottery near Dajrr Macarius. The former, perhaps, marks the site of Nitria, and the latter Sciathis, whence thia d\a\.i\c-\.TCeev\edthe appellation of BciatYiio.) ox ^Ssb^JSiVi^ Tfc^Q^\si^'^out a couple of miles to the southward, near the ruins of two other convents. It is supposed to resemble Noah's ark in form, though in no other respects; for here, as at other Coptic monaste- ries, the admission of women, is strictly prohibited. But though stem and inflexible, like other monks, re- specting the admission of women, and in refusing to all but the unmarried the privileges of a monastic life, they do not exclude a widower, on his re- nouncing for efer the thoughts of matrimony. The rules of the Coptic Church are even so indulgent as to allow a priest, who has not taken monastic vows, to marry once; but the death of this his only wife con- demns him to future celibacy, though it should happen a few weeks after the celebration of the marriage rites. They take the same view of the com- mand in 1 Tim. iii. 2-12, as the Greeks. Tldg coBveDt eontaina 3 churches : one of them, Adra Bis Suridniy has a beautifully carved screen door inlaid with wood and ivory, and an iconostasis also inlaid with ivory ; in a chapel is a curious double picture on panel with two saints on one side, and a crowned female head, perhaps the Empress Helena, on the other. The library contains a small collection of old but not ancient books and MSS. The treasures unrespected and uncared for which this convent once contained have long since passed into safer keep- ing. It was in a vault here that the Duke of Northumberland and M. Linant-Bey first discovered the re- mains of the old Syriac library. Some of the MSS. in this vault were brought away by the late Lord Zouche (author of Curzon's * Monasteries in the Le- vant *) in 1833. The remainder were procured by Dr. Tattam and others at different intervals, and now form a collection of about 1000 volumes in the British Museum. The oldest, which contains, among other things, some works of Eusebius, is conjec- tured to have been written about AJ). 411. Each monastery does or ought to possess a ketdb sillemee, or vocabulary, in which each Coptic word is placed opposite its equivaletit in Arabic ; not arranged alphabetically, but under various heads, as parts of the human body, vegetables, utensils, &c., as well as the names of towns in Egypt. These last have been of great use in fixing the position of many ancient places. It is, however, to be regretted that some of the names are far from certain, owing to the ignorant pre- sumption of the copyists, who have often introduced the name they sup- posed the town to have had, with or in lieu of that in the MS. they were employed to copy ; e. g.y in the voca- bulary at Dayr Macarius, Babylon is said to be the same as On (the ancient Heliopolis), and the Matareeyeh of the Arabs. At a short distance from. 'D^-r Surldni ia Ba-yx AitOtKi. "BvaMiV. ^5^. contaiiia % 1 El -Adra (Jit^^b N\i%v5i^> \a ^ ^^^^ 366 ROUTE 16. — CAIRO TO OASIS OF SEEWAH. Sect. VI. reliquary inclosing the whole body of Amba Bishoi. The view over the desert from the lofty and massive walls of this convent is very peculiar and striking. A ride of 2 hrs. brings us to Dayr Baramods, a large convent, for which an antiquity of 1600 years is claimed. It boasts of 4 churches, and (1874) one monk, an Abyssinian. Close by are the ruins of another convent, Dayr Amba Moosa, and the vestiges of a few others may be traced here and there in the Natron valley ; but it would be difficult now to discover the sites of the 50 mentioned by Gibbon, or even half that number. The modem monks, though friendly and hospitable, are little interested about the ruined abodes of their predecessors : they are ignorant even of the history of their church ; and it would be difficult to find any one to point out the con- vent where the ambitious Cyril passed some years under the restraint of a monastic life. About 3J m. from Dayr Baramods, near the end of one of the lakes, are a few wattled huts, inhabited by the collectors of natron. It is a con- venient spot to pass the night at, as TTiinr and eggs can be obtained. Wild boars are foimd in the reed beds close by. About 3 m. from these huts is Zakooky a now deserted village, occu- pying the site of an ancient glass house, probably of the Roman period. Vestiges of the house, and scoria of common green glass may still be seen. Zakook may possibly mark the position of the town of Nitria. From here to Teraneh is a journey of 11 or 12 hrs. ROUTE 16. ALEXANDRIA OB CAIRO TO THE OASIS OF SEEWAH, OB AMMON. This is a long and difficult journey, presenting few objects of interest to the ordinary traveller. To go and return will require about 5 weeks. Camels, tents, provisions, trustworthy guides and a dragoman will be neces- sary. (For hints on desert travelling, see Rte. 14, a.) Letters of recom- mendation should be obtained from the Egyptian government. It is well to take some trifling presents for the sheykhs at the Oasis. There are several routes which may be followed. They will take from 11 ,to 15 days, according to the length of each day's journey. 1. From Alexandria, by Baraioon. This is the route followed by Alex- ander the Great. It follows the sea- coast as far as Baratoon, the ancient ParfiBtonium, and then turns S. to the Seewah. At Baratoon are some ruins of ParfiBtonium, which Strabo describes as a city, with a large port, measuring 40 stadia across. By some it was called Ammonia. After leaving Baratoon the road turns S. into the desert. 2. From Cairo, hy Terdneh and ihe Wddy Natrodn, For the route to the Wady Natrodn see Rte. 15. After leaving the Wddy Natrodn the road lies by M-Maghra^ or the Wddy es- Soomar (brackish water), El-EIbah, or Idbba (salt water), and j^6rara(good water). Or, on leaving the Wddy Natrodn, another road may be followed by Hanvmam and Bara£oon^ but it is a long round, and there is no good water except at Hammam. ROUTE 16. — OASIS AND TOWN OF SEEWAH. Egypt. the route to the Fayoom, see Ete. 18. After leaving Medemet el-Fayoomy the road follows that to the Little Oasis (see Kte. 17) as far as Baydn. It then passes Baydn elrSogheiyir (brack- ish water) ; Ain Maghdrah (good water); El-Fereis (brackish water); and El'Garah, a village on a steep rock, surrounded by palm-groves. 4. From Cairo hy the Little Oasis. For routes to the Little Oasis see Bte. 17. After leaving El-Kasr, the road passes at a short distance Ain BeUdy ; Suttra (4 days), a small irrigated spot with salt water, but without any palms ; El-Arrag (1^ to 2 days), where are palms and springs of good water, to the rt. of which, separated by a hill, is Bahrayn, a valley with palms and water; Mertesek (1 day), with a few palms, and water under the sand. Thence to Seewidi is 1 day. The OasiB of Ammon, or Seewah, as it is called in Arabic, doubtless from, the ancient Egyptian name, is about 6 m. long by 4^ to 5 m. wide. It ifl divided into two parts, of which the eastern is the more fertile. This part ends in a lake of brackish water OA the N.E., beyond which at a dis- tance of about 10 miles is the small Oasis of Zaytoon. There is also a lake of brackish water on the W., on which side, from El-Garah to El-Aras- heeyeh there extends for 50 miles a series of small oases, all of which, to- gether with that of Zaytoon, are in- cluded in the map under the general title of Seewah. The Oasis is celebrated in history for its famous oracle, for the purpose of consulting which it was visited by Alexander tiie Great. According to Herodotus it was founded at the same time as that of Dodona. Its repute continued under the Ptolemies, but fell off under the Eoman rule. When Pausanias visited it, about 160 a.d., it was dumb, and all that he found were certain historical and literary soayenirs of its former importance. The Oasis subsequently became a Slaoe of banidunent for political offen- ei8 and crIminalB. After the Mo- 367 hammedan conquest of Egypt it be- came entirely independent and was governed by its own sheykhs. It was hardly known to the Arab geographers of the middle ages, and the first European to visit it was Alexander Browne, in 1792. Mohammed All brought it again under Egyptian rule in 1820, when Hassan Bey Shamas- hirgee invaded and took it, as well as the other oases. Since then the in- habitants have more than once at- tempted to regain their independence, but always unsuccessfully. The population of the Oasis is about 5000. The people are hospitable, but suspicious, and savage in their habits and feelings. They are also very fanatical, and impose severe fines on those who fail in their religious ob- servances. All young men who have reached the age of puberty, and widowers, are obliged to reside in a different part from the married people, and though they may visit their parents, must return to their own quarters be- fore sunset. The administration of the govern- ment is in the hands of several sheykhs, some of whom hold office for life, and others for 10 years. They dispense justice, and maintain order. Fierce feuds, however, attended with loss of life, frequently take place between different villages and families, which are only stopped by the interference of ihofekh^s (priests). The people understand Arabic, but have a pecuhar language of their own. The following are a few words : teg^ mirt, horse; daZgi^rt^mt, camel ; zeetan, donkey ; shdha, goat ; ra^dwen, dates ; esdin^ wheat ; tineefayn, lentils. The geological features resemble those of all the oases (see p. 17. Part I.). The soil is extremely fertile and covered with fruit-trees, principally the date-palm, of which there are five kinds, the suUdnee^frahee^ saidee, kai- bee, ghazdlee, all oi excellent quality. These constitute their principal com- merce and source of revenue. The Town of SeewalL, thsk i\»NJt era. ^ "^^.S^ 368 ROUTE 17. — CAIEO TO THE OASES. Sect. VL high round towers. The streets are irregular and very narrow, and in many places run beneath the houses, which are built over them on arches ; they are consequently very dark, and a lantern is required to find one's way about. The houses are built one on the top of another, often to a very considerable height. The town itself contains no remains. Om Baydah ("Mother White"), where are the ruins of the Temple of Ammon, or Amen, is about 2 m. E. from Seewah, near the village of Ghar- mee, and is surrounded by a forest of date-palms. The ruins are not of very great extent, but enough remains to show the style of building, and many of the sculptures are still preserved. Amen-Kneph, or Amen, with the attributes of the ram-headed god, is the principal divinity. The figures of other divinities are also preserved. Near the temple, to the E., is a spring, which is prolMtbly the Fountain of the Sun, About J m. to the S.E. of Om Bay- dah is a hill called Drah Ahoo Bereekj and some ancient excavations, probably tombs, and some imimportant Greek inscriptions on the rocks. About 7 or 8 m. farther E. again, at the Zaytoon, are ruins of buildings of the Boman- Egyptian date. Kasr Boom (the ** Greek" or ** Roman Palace") is about 5 m. to the W. of Seewah. The road lies over a salt plain and desert to Amoodayn (the "two columns"), where are some un- important ruins; and thence to the little village of El-Kameeseh^ built in the midst of some old remains, amongst which are those of a stone edifice. Above, in the side of the hill, are a number of small tombs. About ^ m. to the S. are the ruins of Kasr Boom. a small Doric temple of Boman date. To the N. of this are some tombs in the face of a hill, at the foot of which are some other ruins, called Beled Boom, About ^ m. to the N. of Seewah is B hill called Gebel el-M6t (" HiU of neatb "X which ia honeycombed with ^bs, some of which appear to bo of ROUTE 17. CAIRO TO THE LITTLE OASIS, THE GREAT OASIS, AND THE OASIS OF DAKHLEH, BY THE FAYOOM. old date. A visit to these Oases will not come within the scope of the ordinary tra- veller. From whatever point tlie start is made, it will be necessary to make all the preparations for a desert journey Tsee Rte. 14, a), and secure trustworthy servants and guides. The most frequented roads to the Little Oasis are from the Fayoom and from Behnesa, and lie average distance from them is the same, about 3 days' journey. The Great Oasis may be visited from Asyoot, from Geezeh by Abydus, from Farshoot, from Thebes, or from Esneh ; and that of Dakhleh from Beni Adee near Manfaloot, or by the Great Oasis. The route by the Fayoom and the Little Oasis includes El-Hayz and Farafreh, and gives the best idea of the character of the African desert; but most persons who go to the Oases will be satisfied with a visit to the Little Oasis from the Fayoom or from Behaesa, and to the other two from some point in Upper Egypt, returning again to the same, or to some other, place on the Nile. As it is not always easy to procure camels at any of the places from which a start will be made, it is weU to procure at Oairo a letter of recom- mendation to the authorities of the place chosen. There is little to vary the monotony of the roads to the Oases, which lead over aloit^ t&\A!&-\»sid,\iitersected here 1' and iheivi \>'j «ai^ n^w^ or lavinea, 'wotii \i^ ^^a Ni^XKt ^l lis^ Hgypt. ROUTE 17. — ROADS TO THE OASES. 369 that occasionally falls there. The Oases liu in certain depressions in this mountain-plain, surrounded by cliffs more or less precipitous, and very like those to the E. and W. of the valley of the Nile. In the centre, or in some part of this depressed plain, is the Oasis itself, — a patch of fertile soil, composed of sand and clay, which owes its origin to the springs that rise here and there to fertilise it. Here are gardens, palm-groves, fields, and villages, not imlike a portion of the valley of the Nile, with a sandy plain beyond, Iq which stunted tamarisks, coarse grasses, and other desert plants, struggle to keep their heads above the drifted sand that collects around them. The distant hills, or the ab- rupt faces of the high mountain-plain surrounding the whole, complete the scene, and if you ascend a minaret, or any point higher than the rest, you may add to these general features some stagnant lakes, whose feverish exhalations cause and account for the yellow complexion of the inhabitants, and make it unsc^Te to visit the Oases in summer or autumn. The height of these Oases varies. The Little Oasis being about 200 feet higher than the Nile at Benisooef, while the Great Oasis and that of Dakhleh are nearly on the same level. Bat in all of them the water seems to rise from an argillaceous bed, which in the two former lies under limestone, and in the latter under sandstone strata. It may, however, be reasonably conjec- tured that the water comes originally from the Nile, whence, carried over the day, it finds its way to the different Oases, as to the Natron valley; and its occasionally rising, in a level higher than the Nile in the same latitude, is explained by its having entered the conducting stratum at some more south- erly, and consequently more elevated, part of the river*s course. In all of the Oases the cultivable spots bear a very small proportion to the dimensions of the valley over which they are studded. For the xoate from Cairo to Medee- net el-FaYoom^ see Ete» 18, e. The first halt after leaving Medee- neh will probably be at El-Gliereh (see p. 381), where the supply of water for the journey should be taken in. It is always better to have too much water than too little, and rather more than the Arabs say is necessary, as they try to load their camels as lightly as possible, and think little for the future. The next point is Wddy Raidn, abounding with palm-trees and water, but the latter is brackish and only fit for camels. About 15 m. to the S.E. of Wddy Raian, and some way to tlie 1. of the road, is the valley of Moileh with a ruined convent or monastery, and a spring of salt water. It may be visited on the way to Wady Raian, by making a small d^tour^ and is curious as a Christian ruin. It contains 2 churches, one of stone, the other of brick, and is surrounded by a strong wall, with a tower of defence on the N. side. In the churches are several Coptic and some Arabic inscriptions, and figures of the Apostles and saints ; and the cornice that runs round a niche in the stone church is richly carved, though in bad taste. The total di- mensions of the convent are 89 paces by 65. In the same valley are some curious specimens of the picturesque wild palm-tree. There is nothing remarkable on the rdad to the Oasis ; and one cluster of acacia-trees appears a singular novelty. On descending into the low plain in which the Oasis, properly so called, stands, you perceive that the calca- reous mountains repose on sandstone, with a substratum of clay, holding the water that rises from it in the form of springs. You pass numerous stunted tamarisk-bushes, some palms and springs, then some stagnant lakes ; and after sinking in the salt-crust of once flooded fields, that crackles under your feet, you reach the thick palm- groves, gardens, and villages of the Wah. It is divided into two parts, separated by some isolated hills, over which Uie principal road pajBCK& ^«sc^ one to theoth^. 'l^oefe^S^^aRk^wB^ stone, and. t\\o^' v*^«eicL\. tssvska ^\i£>ss^J^ 1 geological ieatxaoft. 370 ROUTE 17.— CAIRO TO THE OASES. Sect. VL The Little Oasis, or Wah el-Beh- nesa, is the Oasis Parva of the Bomans. It is also known as the Wah d-Mendeesheh, and the WaJi el'Ghdrbee, though this last is pro- perly its ^^ western" division. The Arabic name Wah is the same as the ancient Egyptian Ouah, Aua, or Oa, which with the Greek termination formed Auasis, or Oasis, and is the Coptic Ouahe. The Arabs say that it was called Behnesa from having been colonised from the place of that name on the Bahr Yoosef. There are four inhabited spots in the oasis, which succeed one another from E. to W. — Zubbo, Mareeyeh, El-Kasr, and Bowitti. Near Zvhbo there is a small ruin; Mareeyeh is a few minutes farther. El-Kasr, about 1^ m. from Mareeyeh, is the most important place ; it has a Boman building, from which it derives its name of " the Palace," which was once a handsome edifice, well built, and or- namented with Doric mouldings ; and its arch, with the niches at the side, has still a good effect. The Kasr el- Alam, about IJ m. to the W. of El- Kasr, is an insignificant crude-brick ruin: there is another about f m. to the S.W. of the same town. The principal gardens are in the neigh- bourhood of El-Kasr, and oranges, apricots, pomegranates, vines, figs, bananas, and other fruit-trees are numerous. Bowitti is close to El-E^asr. The most remarkable springs of warm water, in which the oasis abounds, are at Bowitti and El-Kasr, the former having a temperature of 27° Re'aum.; the latter, whose steam is converted into a rude bath, of 27J° Beaum., or about 93^° Fahr. With re- gard to the real and apparent warmth of the water of some of these springs, an idea may be had from a pond formed by them at Zubbo, whose water soon after simrise (Feb. 3), the exterior air being 8J° Beaum., was 18^°, and quite warm to the hand ; at midday, the ex- terior air beiQg 15°, it was 21°, and cold to the hand ; and in the eveniag at 9 P.M., the exterior air being 12^°, the water was 20i°, and consequently WH/zH to the hand ; explaining the ex- aggerated phenomena of the Fountain of the Sun, in the Oasis of AmmoiL The pond is about 30 ft. wide, and 5 or 6 ft. in depth. It is the one mentioned by Belzoni. The Productions of this oasis are similar to those of the valley of the Nile; but the principal source of wealth, as in the other Oases, is the date-tree, which yields a very su- perior quality of fruit. The dates are of 4 kinds : the SvUdnee, the Saidee, which are the best, the Kdka, and the Ertob. The proportion of fruit-trees is also much greater than on the Nile. A conserve of dates, called ALgweh, is made by pounding them in a mass, and then mixing whole dates with it. They make no brandy from dates, but extract a palm-wine, called Louh- geh, from the heart of the tree, — an intoxicating beverage, of which they are very fond. It is thus made : in the summer, when the sap is up, they cut off all the gereets (palm-branches), except 3 or 4 in the middle; and then, having made incisions in every part of the heart, at the foot of those branches, they stretch a skin all round, to conduct the juice into a jar placed there to receive it. Some palms fill a jar in one night, holding about 6 pints. It is sweetened with honey, and drunk as soon as made; and its taste and effect are very mudi like new wine, with the flavour of cider. The heart of the palm-tree is also cut out and eaten. But this, like the process of making the wine, spoils the tree. (Of. Xenoph. Anab. 2, 3.) The people of the Nile, therefore, ne^er taste the former unless a tree falls, as they cannot afford to sacrifice wnat cQsts them an annual duty. They also make treacle from the dates; and they lay up dried pomegranates for the winter and spring. The liquorice-roots (soos) are sent to the Nile in baskets, and are used for making a sort of sherbet. The Population may be reckoned at 7000. Though the inhabitants of the Oasis are a much less induBtrious and energetic race than the feUc^ieen ci ^SyP^) ^^7 P^7 oonstderable attcoitioii \ to the cra\\iCT^\A$ya. ol ^^\x lands ; but Egypt: RTE. 17. BL-HAYZ— FABAFREH— the blacks — DAKHLEH. 871 they have not to undergo the same toil in raising water as on the Nile, the streams that constantly flow from plen- tiful springs affording a convenient and never-foiling supply for irrigation. But the stagnant lakes created by the surplus of water exhale a pernicious miasma, causing a dangerous remittent fever, which annually rages in the summer and autumn ; and the Arabs of the desert consider it unsafe to visit these districts at any other season than the winter and the spring. El-Hayz.— The small Wah of El- Hayz is a short day to the S. of the Little Oasis, of which, indeed, it is a continuation. It has springs and cul- tivated land belonging to the people of El-Kasr and Bowitti, who go there at certain seasons to till it, and collect the crops. But it has no village, and the only appearance of buildings is at El- Errees, where a ruined church shows it was once the abode of Christian monks. This consists of a nave and aisles, with looms on the upper story. Some of the arches have the horseshoe form; and over a window is a Coptic inscrip- Hsm, About 600 paces to the S.W. is another crude-brick ruin, about 74 paces by 50, within the walls, which are about 30 ft. high, and near this are much pottery and some ne&^- trees, which mdicate the previous existence of a garden, either belonging to a mona- st^ or a town. FarlUireh. — About 3 days from El- Hayz are the Oasis and village of Fara&eh, containing about 60 or 70 male inhabitants. The kassob, ^^ cane," mentioned by Ibn-el-Werde, appears to be the dokhn or millet (JSoUms sac- i^raiuB), nown in this district ; and it is remarkable that the name kasscb, usually confined to sugar-cane, is here applied to millet. The productions of Far^freh are very much the same as Uiose of the other Oases, but it excels them in the quality of its olives, which are exported to the Little Oasis. Far&- fir^ was formerly called Trinytheos Ooftty bat it boasts no remains of anti- qmty. It has a castle or stronghold loat coTomaiids and protects the village in case of attack from the Arabs, or more dangerous enemies. The ancient name was ToroJif the ** land of Mne.*' Oasis of the Blacks. — This Oasis is 5 or 6 days W. of the road to Far^eh. It is also called Wddy Zerzoora, and is about the size of the Oasis Parva, abounding in palms, with springs, and some ruins of uncertain date. It was discovered at the beginning of the cen- tury by an Arab« while in search of a stray camel, and from seeing the foot- steps of men and sheep he supposed it to be inhabited. Gebdboy another Wah, lies 6 days beyond this to the W., and 12 days from Augila ; and Tazerbo, which is stiU farther to the W., forms part of the same Oasis. The general belief is that Wady Zerzoora also com- municates with it. The inhabitants are black, and many of them have been carried off at different times by the Moghrebbins for slaves: through the "Valleys of the Blacks," a series of similar Oases lie still farther to the W. According to another account, Zer- zoora is only 2 or 3 days due W. from Dakhleh, beyond which is another Wddy; then a second, abounding in cattle ; then Gebdbo and Tazerbo ; and beyond these, Wddy Beheedna, Ge- bdbo is inhabited by two tribes of Blacks, the Simertayn and Ergezayn. These are, perhaps, the continuation of palm-bearing spots mentioned by Edreesee, which he says extend to Cuca and Cawar. Oasis of Dakhleh.~Four days to the S. of Farafreh is the Wah el- Ghdrbee, or Wah ed-Dakhlehf "the Western or Inner Oasis.'* It is called in the hieroglyphic inscriptions, Testes, The name of Dakhleh is put in opposi- tion to Khargeh (wliich is given to the Great Oasis that lies E. of it). — the one meaning the ** receding," the other the " projecting'* Wah; Khargeh being called prcjecting, as being nearer to Egypt. A great portion of the road from Far^reh lies between two of t3\ the oiiW 'w^\Btm^-^^3W5fc ovv HJaa "««^ to the me. 1\ ^a ^^'s^^ Q^va-^a^e^t^. 376 ROUTE 18. — CAIRO TO THE FAYOOM. Sect VL probably in consequence of its having been occupied at a subsequent period by the Christians, who have left an- other ruined, building id the vicinity, with two vaulted chambers, in which are some Ck)ptic and Arabic inscrip- tions. Seven minutes* walk to the N.W. from the fort is another ruin, with vaulted chambers, but without inscriptions. The rest of the journey occupies nearly 3 days, or from 32 to 34 hours' march. Nothing is met with on the way but remains of enclosures made with rough stones, at intervals ; and much broken pottery, during the second day's journey. Instead of going direct to Farshoot the traveller may turn off and strike the valley of the Nile at Ahydus (p. 437). The road to Esneh (p. 506) goes from near Bayrees, at the S. end of the Oasis, and thence across the desert to the Nile. The journey is performed in about 50 hours. ROUTE 18. CAIRO TO THE FAYOOM. a. Preliminary Hints, b. Description of the Fayoom. c. Cairo to Me- deeneh. d. Excursions from Me- deeneh to the Labyrinth and Lake Moeris, and other ruins, e. Tour from Medeeneh to Blrket el-Kom, Kasr Kharoon, and other places in the Fayoom. a. Pbeldonaby Hints. By those who have the time to spare this expedition is well worth undertak- ings as it introduces them to a country differing a good deal in its general aspect from the valley of the Nile. The antiquary will find much to interest him in the supposed sites of Lskke Moeris and the Labyrinth, and the ruins on the shore of the Birket el- Kom; while to the sportsman the Fayoom in the winter months offers more attractions than any other part of Egypt. The preparations for the journey will of course depend on the time intended to be spent ; but tents, beds, and all the etceteras necessary to a camp life, must be taken, imless the traveller is content with a visit to Medeeneh and the neighbourhood, and while there can put up with the accommodation afforded by a Greek caf^. For a tour through the Fayoom, including Medeeneh, Sie Labyrinth, the site of Lake Moeris, the Birket el- Kom, and the ruins in the neighbour- hood, about a week or 10 days will be required. A. dragoman will charge about 25«. to 308. a day for providing everything (wine excepted), including railway fares. The best way of reach- ing the Fayoom is by railway as far as Medeeneh. There camels and donkeys can be procured for visiting the Birket el-Kom and other places. An introduction to the Mudeer of Medeeneh will be found useful in help- ing the traveller to procure camels and donkeys. If the traveller visits the Fayoom from his dahaheeyeh he can leave the river at Wasta going up and at Benisooef coming down, rejoining his boat again at Benisooef going up and at Wasta coming down. 6. Description op the Fayoom. The province of Egypt called the Fayoom is a natural depression in the Libyan hills, surrounded on all sides by desert, save where a narrow strip of soil borders the canal lead- ing to it from the Nile. It is thus almost an oasis, owing its fertility to the water of the Nile, introduced through a natural isthmus in the desert surrounding it. Its present name, Fayoom, is probably derived from the old Egyptian word Pi-om, ,01 Pfiarjoom, "the Sea" or "lake Egtjpt. ROUTE 18. — THE FAYOOM : MEDEENEH. 377 plied to a country -which contained such a splendid system for storing and distributing water, as that with which the Fayoom was endowed by King Amenemhat III., the constructor of Lake Moeris and the Labyrinth. In the hieroglyphic inscriptions it is re- ferred to as " Ta-she" the land of the lake." In Ptolemaic and Boman times this province was called the Arsinoite nome which, Strabo says, excelled all other in appearance, in goodness, and in condition. It was the only place where the olive-tree arrived at any size, or bore good fruit, except the gardens of Alexandria. It also pro- duced a great quantity of wine, as well as com, vegetables, and plants of all kinds. According to tradition it con- tained 366 towns and villages; and, though this can hardly be credited, it is evident that it was a populous nome of ancient Egypt, and that many places once existed both in its centre and on its now barren skirts. Indeed the cultivated land extended formerly far beyond its present limits: a great portion of the desert plain was then taken into cultivation, and several places may be noted where canals and the traces of cultivated fields are still discernible to a considerable distance E. and W. of the modem irrigated lands. Its reputation for fertility it still en- joys, and though its merits have been greatly exaggerated, it is certainly superior to other piurts of Egypt from the state of its gardens and the variety of its productions; since, in addition to com, cotton, and the usual cul- tivated plants, it abounds in roses, apricots, figs, grapes, olives, and several other fruits, which grow there in greater perfection and abundance than in the valley of the Nile; and the rose-water used in Cairo comes from the neighbourhood of Medeeneh. The whole extent of the cultivable part of the Fayoom measures about 23 ra. N. and S., and 28 E. and W., which last was in former times extended to upwards of 40 in that part (from Kasr Kliaroon to Tomeeah) where it has the rMktest breadth. Its length N. and S., measured to the other aide of the "Biukei ej'^onf, ia increftsed to 32 m. The total population is about 150,000. Its chief commerce is in corn, cotton, and cattle, chiefly sheep, of which it possesses the best breed in Egypt. In addition to the various products men- tioned above, the sugar-cane has lately been planted by the Viceroy on large tracts of land, and mills have been erected in various parts. c. Caibo to Medeeneh. The train leaves the Boolak Dakroor station of the Upper Egypt railway about 8.0 A.M. (see Environs of Cairo, Exc. viii.), and, passing Bedreshayn and one or two other stations, reaches El-Wasta June. Stat, for the Fayoom, 56 m. from Cairo, in about 3 hrs. At this village, which is close to the Nile, it is necessary to wait 3 hrs. or more till the arrival of the up train to Cairo. As soon as it has left, the Fayoom train is started. The line goes straight west- ward across the cultivated land. The only noticeable object is the Pyramid of Maydoom (see p. 395) to the N. On reaching the desert the road begins to ascend, and crosses the low chain of hills that divides the valley of the Nile from the oasis of the Fayoom. El'Edwa Stat., 20 m. A small vil- lage on the edge of the cultivated land. There is capital shooting of various kinds to be obtained in the neighbourhood. Geese, ducks, water- birds of every description, and snipe abound in the winter months, and quail a little later. There are a num- ber of half-natural, half-artificial, dykes between El-Edwa and To- meeah, to which birds resort in great numbers. Those who are intent on sport had better pitch their tents at El-£dwa, and make shooting excur* sions in the neighbourhood. Medeeneh Stat., 5 m. The capital town of the Fayoom, and so often called Medeenet-el-Fayoom, and Medeenet-el- Fares (" City of the Knight or Horse- man "). It has about 8000 inhabitants, and presents the usual aspect of a large Egyptian town, with bazsAX^.^ VsaJCMa^^ Greek caffe>fe-\iS5V3kafc%, wA ^ \b»:$«^ every Suneift.^, \\. \& »5yvMa.\ft^ «^ "^^ 378 ROUTE 18. — CAIRO TO THE FAYOOM. Sect. VL of the Bahr Yoosef, which conduct the water into the Fayoom, through an opening in the hills near Benisooef. This branch canal, like nearly all those in the Fayoom, has quite the appear- ance of a natural river. To the N. of the modem town are the mounds which mark the site of Arsinoej formerly Cro- codilopdis^ the Egyptian city of Shot or Pi'Sebek (** the abode of Sebek "), in which was worshipped the sacred crocodile kept in tiie Lake Moeris. Many objects of interest, especially lamps, and other articles of bronze, b^ longing to the Christian period, have been found here. Leo Africanus says, ** the ancient city was built by one of the Pharaohs, on an elevated spot near a small canal from the Nile, at the time of the Exodus of the Jews, after he had afflicted them with the drudgery of hewing stones and other laborious employments." Here, too, they pre- tend " the body of Joseph, the son of Israel, was buried," which was after- wards removed by the Jews at their departure; and the surrounding country is famed for the abundance of its fruit and olives ; though these last are only fit for eating, and useless for their oil. Wansleb says the Copts still call the city Arsinoe in their books, and relates a strange tradition of its having been burnt by a besieging enemy, who tied torches to the tails of cats, and drove them into the town. d. EXCTJESIONS FBOU MeDEENEH TO THE Labybinth and Lake Mcbbis, and otheb places. A visit to the site of the Labyrinth, and the crude-brick pyramid of Hawd- rah, which stands at its northern end, may be made from Medeeneh. The distance in a direct line is not more than 5 or 6 m., but a detour of more or less length will have to be made, according to the time of year and the state of the canals. Care should be taken to ascertain that the donkey- boy who acts as guide knows the way, and the proper places for crossing the various canals, especially the arm of tlie Bahr Yoosef which runs N. to Tomeeiab, and the deep, narrow canal which flows through the W. aide of the Labyrinth. This arm of the Bahr Yoosef presents here the appearance of a natural ravine, sometimes confined between steep banks, and at others widening out to a breadth of several hundred feet. Between it and the ruins are a succession of mounds, through which, immediately skirting the pyramid and the ruins, runs the narrow modem canal above referred to. The site of the Labyrinth, which had long been a subject of doubt, was fixed by Lepsius and the Prussian commission. But little remains to justify the extravagant admiratioa bestowed on it by Herodotus, who says, '^ I visited this place, and found it to surpass description ; for if all the walls and other great works of the Greeks were put together in one, they would not equal, either for labour or expense, this Labyrinth:" and he adds that *'the Labyrinth surpasses the Pyra- mids." The founder of the Labyrintb has been variously named by ancient authors, but it seems probable that its builder was Amenemhat HI. of the Xllth Dynasty,the same who oonstmct- ed the Lake Moeris. His is the oldest name found among the ruins. The whole extent of the Labyrinth, includ- ing the pyramid, measured about 1150 ft. E. and W. by 850 ft. N. and S.,and it appears to have been built roimd an open area 500 ft. broad and 600 ft. in length. Within this area lie such re- mains as can still be seen, consisting of broken columns and QM>itals, of granite and hard white Umestone. The hieroglyphics on the granite have been painted green. Herodotus says that there were 12 courts, and two difierent sets of chambers, 1500 above ground, and beneath them 1500 under ground, and that the under- grouud ones *' contained the sepulchres of the kings who built the Labyrinth, and also those of the sacred crocodiles.'' The word Labyrinth has been in- geniously derived from the ancient Egyptian rorhunt or la^hwU (the mouth of a reservoir). *' The temple of the mouth of the- reservoir " wouid be ra-pe-TO-?iuut, or larp64o'hwnt, and ^OMiVd g^N^ X3A ^Ckj^ ^«ciE^«S^<^Tk. not of \ EOUTE 18. — THE LABYEIHTH AKD LAXE MfERIB. labyrinth OTilj', but oIbo of JUaAoon, tlie name of the neighbouring pjrftmiil. The crocodile WBa the aaored animiil of the nome, giving ita name to tlie city of CrocodiTopolis ; and it was the hatred of the inhabitantfl of the neiyli- bouring province of Heracleopolin for this anuDBl that caused the destruotii^n of the Ijftbyrinth. It has been well observed that the reason of the ctol^o- dile, the eel, and other fish b^iiig sacred in inland towns of Egypt, wiid to enanre the main ten anoe of thn canall which conducted to those plnren the fitsh water without which thoj could not live. To the N. of these ruins is a crucli'* brick pyramid, generally called the Pjfromid of Saairah. When entiiv it was 348 ft, square ; but it is much rained, The style of ita building, in ia very evident. The bricks are very large, and appear to be of a great agr:. Btittbo gives 1 plethra (400 ft.) fot tlji.- length of each face, and the sami: fu]- the height, which Uercdotus calculnti^» at 40 fathoms (240 ft.). A uaturFLl Tqok risee inside to the height of cbuut 40 ft. Several stone walla, inters8ctiu|- it in regular lines, act as binders tn tin.' intermediate mass of brickwork built in between them : and the outside nan coated with a atone caaing. About 8 m. to the 8, of we Labyrintli ia another ciude-brick pyramid near the village of lUahooa, a short distuncc to the 8.W. of which, at a village aillu.l Hawarah, are the great stone dyk.s and slQices. mentioned by AboollVdLi. that regulate the quantity of wnli^r admitted into the Fajoom. ^onie remains of older bridges and dikes swept away by various irruptionM of the Nile ■' ■ ■ ■■ of the desert during the iuundation. From the branch of the Bahr Vu ■ef which runs from the bridge ' sondnct the water to varioua paris nl the province, the quantity being re^ru- yiied bj alnioea, aectading to the WHiitt of each. At of old, tbey oS^ still e From Illahoou to Beaitooif on the Nile (see Itte. 19) U about 14 m. in a direct line. On the road about 2 m. the S.W. of the bridge of Illahoon B the mounds of an ancient town, called T6ma, which, &om its name and position, probably marks the aite of PtolemaU, the port of ArsinoS. Far- ther on to the rt. you see the lofty mounds of An^ieh, the ancient Hera- cleopolis, which stood in an island formed by the canal. The mounds of Noayreh, Bakeh, Be^teimee, Beli^ieh, Kom AkmaT, and others, also mark the sitea of old towns. Moat visitors to the Fayoom wiU be anxious to visit ihe site of the lake Hcerit, of which Herodotus says, " Wonderful as is the Labyrinth, the work called the Lake of Mceris, which ia close by the Labyrinth, ia yet more aatoniahing." But though the position of thia lake has now been aatiB&ctorUy determined, there ia little or nothing to mark the ground it occupied, To M, liinaiit-Bey ia doe the discovery of ils position, and the refutation of the theory which made the Birket el- Kom its representative. The accounts of Herodotus. Strabo, and Pliny, though widely different, all seem to show that it was an artifioial Ibke, dug for the purpose of receiving the super- fluous waters of the Nile during the inundatioo, and then, by means of locks and sluices, distributing them during the dry season throughout the Fayoom and uie surrounding country above and below Memphis. Thu function could never have been dia- lower than the cultivated land; i making every allowance for the rise of the bed of tlie river and the surround- ing country from the continued deposit of alluvium, could they ever have been nearly on the same level, even in Eerodotua' time ; and the ruins at the water's edge of the Birket el-K-isia, show that \to aoriaca ■«»» a*. «ni^ ^^us never biKheiaiB.D.V<.^«r«w- ^^.^a\!'^ bable that -wliBB tt«. i»n»&i*in^ ■*»» 380 ROUTE 18. — CAIRO TO THE FAYOOM. Sect. VL excessive, and the Lake Moeris over- flowed, the superfluous water was carried off into this natural depression of the Birket el-Kom. But the arti- flcial reservoir of Lake Moeris must have been on a level with the lands it was intended to supply with water. Its position has been flxed by M. Linant-Bey in the centre of the pla- teau of the Fayoom. He discovered to the N., N.E., and S. of Medeeneh, remains of an old dyke of great strength, extending over an area of some 30 m. Within the circumference of these remains was Lake Mooris. Biahmoo, about 4 m. to the N. of Me- deeneh, formed the N.W. angle ; from thence the dyke can be traced for about 10 m. E. as far as Wddy War- dan, and 18 m. S., as far as Gh^rek. That this must have been the position of Lake Moeris is still further proved by the now ascertained site of the labyrinth, which, Herodotus tells us, was " a little above Lake Moeris, in the neighbourhood of Crocodilopolis." His assertion that it was 450 m. in circum- ference, may be explained by the sup- position that he embraced in this mea- surement the whole water-system of the Fayoom, the Birket el-Kom included. The conception and execution of this gigantic work were due to Arae- nemhat III. of the Xllth Dynasty, the same who built the Labyrinth. The name Moeris, given to him by the Greeks, may be derived from an old Egyptian word m^rl or mi-uer, which signified " the great lake." In hieroglyphic inscriptions, Lake Moeris is called She, "the basin or lake," She-usr, "the great lake basin," and Mi'Uer. The records of the rise of the Nile, put up by this same king at Scmneh, are an additional proof of the attention he bestowed on hydraulic engineering. Another excursion from Medeeneh may be made to Biggig, about 2 m. to the S.S.W. of Medeeneh, where is an obelisk of the time of Osir- tasen I., who erected that of Heliopolis. It has been thrown down, and broken in two porta; one about 26J ft., the /?ilier 16 #. 3 ia. Ipng. Que faiCe and two sides are only visible ; and few hieroglyphics remain on the lower part. The mean breadth of the face ^ is 5 ft. 2 in., or 6 ft. 9J in. at the lower end, and the sides are about 4 ft. in width. At the uppei: part of the face are five compartments, one over the other ; in each of which are two figures of king Osirtasen offering to two deities. Below are columns of hieroglyphics, many of which are quite illegible. The other face is under the ground. On each of the two sides is a single column of hieroglyphics, containing the name of the king, who on one is said to bo beloved by Ptah, on the other by Mandoo — evi- dently the principal deities of the place. On the summit of the obelisk a groove has been cut, doubtless to hold some ornament, like that of Heliopolis; though this of Biggig differs from it, and from other obelisks, in its apex being round and not pomted ; and in the breadth of its sides, and its faces being so very dissimilar. The people of the country look on these fragments with the same superstitious feeling as on some stones at the temple of Panopolis, and other places; and tlie women recite the Fatha over them in the hope of a numerous offspring. At Biahmoo, about 4 m. to the N. of Medeeneh, are some curious stone ruins. They consist of two buildings, distant from each other 81 paces, measuring 45 in breadth and about 60 in length, the southern end of both being destroyed. They stand nearly due N. and S., and at the centre of the E. and W. face is a doorway. In the middle of each is an irregular mass of masonry about 10 paces square and about 20 ft. high, having 10 tiers of stone remaining in the highest part; and at the N.E. comer of the eastern building the outer wall is entire, and presents a sloping pyramidal face, having an angle of 67°. Some have supposed them to be pyramids, and have seen in them tSie two mentioned by Herodotus, as standing in the centre of Lake Moeris. But their position does tiot accord with this idea; and an^\e ia ixot \lti%Ji ol %i Y3^»scddU Egypt BOtTE 18. — MEDEENEH TO THE BIHKET EL-KORN. 381 About 20 m. from Medeeneh, to the S.W., is El-Gh^rekj a town about 700 paces long by 500 broad, pro- tected against the Arabs by a wall furnished with loopholes and pro- jecting towers. Over the gateway are some old sculpture, and parts of small columns and pilasters. It has no ruins, and the mound near it, called Senooris, seems only to mark the site of an older Arab village. And though the stones on the W. side, from which the village has received the pompous name of Medeenet el-Hdgar, *'the City of the Stone," once belonged to ancient ruins, there is no vestige of building that has any claim to an- tiquity. The town stands at the edge of an isolated spot of arable land, sur- rounded by the desert, and watered by a branch of the canal that extends to the lands about N^zleh, and the westemrextremity of the Fayoom. It is the land that has given the name Gh^rek, " submerged,'* to the village ; doubtless from its having been exposed to floods, by the lowness of its level, when accidents have occurred to the dykes. It has been erroneously called a lake. At El-Benidn, ** the Buildings," to the N.E. of El-Ghe'rek, are an old doorway, broken shafts, and capitals of Corinthian columns of Boman time, built into a sheykh's tomb; and at Taleet and Sheyhh Aboo-Samed, to the eastward, are the mounds of two other towns. e. TouB FBOH Medbeneh to the Bir- KET EL-KORN, KaSR KhAROON AND OTHER PARTS OP THE FaYOOM. The following would make a good Tour from Medeeneh. To Nezleh, and thence to the Kasr Kbaroon : from Kasr Kharoon along the S.E. shore of the Birket el-Kom to El-Wady, Abookseer, and Senhoor: from Senhoor, either direct by Fidedcen to Medeeneh, or inland to Tomeeah : and thence back to Medeeneh or El-Edwa. This wo^d occupy from 5 to 8 days. The Birket el-Eom is about 15 m. dibtant in a straight line from Me- deeneh. J/ it JB the time of the sugar-cane harvest, advantage can be taken of the railway which goes from Medeeneh to Nezleh and Abook- seer, both villages not far from the lake. At other periods of the year a train only runs occasionally. It is generally very difficult to hire camels or donkeys in the Fayoom, and it is a good thing to get an order from the governor at Medeeneh, addressed to the village sheykhs, requiring them to furnish the traveller with what he may require . None of the ruins which will presently be described on the shore of the Birket are particularly well worth a visit. The best head- quarters for shooting is perhaps the small village of El-Wady, situate about midway along the S.E. shore of the lake, at the mouth of what is called the Wady river, one of the main branches of the Bahr Yoosef canal before alluded to, which here empties itself into the lake. Plenty of wild-fowl shooting is to be had here in the winter, and quail are abundant in February, Hares, too, abound in the tamarisk- bushes on the shore of the Iskke to the east of El-Wady. Boars and wolves may sometimes be seen, but the place to find them is on the opposite or N.W. side of the lake. There are some large clumsy fishermen's boats at El-Wady, but any one who wants to shoot on the lake, and cross from one side to the other readily, had better take his own boat with him. El-WMy is about 5 m. from Abookseer. Following the route we have indi- cated, we first reach Nezleh, on the banks of the river-like canal called El-Wady, whose mouth is at the village of the same name. At Nezleh the ravine, from bank to bank, mea- sures 673 ft., and 100 ft. in depth from the top of the bank to the level of the water in the channel at the centre, which is 120 ft. broad. In the ravine itself are the remains of a wall, partly bhck, partly stone, whi^ is 8aia to have been once used to retain the water, like that of Tomeeah, wheia there is a simii'dx ^<^^ Xst^'^ <:^\iaK&^ and wlaeie V3aft\tti%<5k T«eecs^\s. ^l^-a^^N kepi up \>^ W\^ ^^Vfi^\v^ v^^SwisS^ 382 ROUTE 18. — CAIRO TO THE FAYOOM. Sect. VI. been made in imitation of the old artificial Lake Moeris. About IJ m. below Nezleh are some mounds, called Wateeyehj and the tomb of Sheyhh Abd el Ban. To the W. of Nezleh are the sites of 2 ancient towns, called Sardb-t-d Yahood (" the Ruins of the Jews ") and mrHammdm (** the Baths ")• Neither of them presents any but crudC'brick remains, and the former has evidently been inhabited by Moslems, whose mud houses still remain. Medeenet Hall, Medeenet Modi, and Edrab-t-en Nishdn, have extensive mounds of an- cient towns, amidst which are found fragments of limestone columns, bricks, pottery, glass, and a few Eoman coins. The road now leads through the desert past Kasr el-Bendt (" the Palace of the Girls"), a small crude-brick ruin, of which the plans of 3 rooms only can be traced; the whole measuring 30 paces by 10. Near it is the site of an old town, with much broken pottery, bricks, and other fragments. One mile and a half to the 8. are the mounds of Merest, presenting the remains of brickwork, but no ruins. Traces of vineyards and the channels of old canals are to be seen, together with much pottery and some tombs, before reaching Kasr Ebaroon, which stands at the IS.W. comer of the lake. The Birket el-Kom is about 35 m. long, and a little more than 7 broad in the widest part, and has received its name, Birket el-KorUy or Keroon C"the Lake of the Horn"), from its form, which is broad at the eastern end, and curves to a point at its opposite extremity. Towards the middle is a barren island, called Gezeeret eUKom. The depth of the lake varies according to the time of year, but the average in the deepest part may be about 30 ft. The surface is considerably below the level of the Nile. The water is brackish, and even salt, particularly in summer, before the inundation has poured into it a supply of fresh water. It is partly fed by this, and partly by springs, which are probably derived from filtrations JStun the Nile over a bed of clay. Until lately the Birket el-Kom Y^aa considered to be the old Lake Moeris, but, as has been already shown, modem science has proved the inaccuracy of that idea. The first view of the lake from the upland plain of the Fayoom is very grand. Dense groves of palm- trees occupy the foreground in the neighbourhood of Senhoor and Nezleh : the plain sloping gradually down to the lake is richly cultivated; the immediate shore is dotted with pic- turesque groups of tamarisk-bushes: the lake itself, on a calm day, glitters like a sea of molten silver ; while be- yond it stretches the desert, to the E. a succession of undulating sand-hills, to the W. a chain of rocky mountains, extending to the edge of the horizon. Mention has already been made of the numbers of aquatic birds, especially in winter. The lake also abounds in fish, mostly of the same kind as those found in the Nile. As usual in Egypt, the fisheries are farmed. Kasr Kharoon. — These are the princi- pal ruins on the shores of the Birket el-Kom. They are at the S.W. comer of the lake, about 10 m. £rom Nezleh, and rather more from the village of El- Wady, to which the road lies over the desert, and along the shore of the lake. The principal building, to which the name of Kasr Kharoon properly belongs, is an Egyptian temple, mea- suring 94 ft. by 63 ft, and 46 ft. in height, preceded by a court about 35 ft. in depth. It contains 14 cham- bers and 2 staircases on the ground- floor, besides a long passage on either side of the adytum, whose end wall is divided into 3 narrow cells. The whole is of hewn stone, and of a very good style of masonry. About 380 paces (or 900 ft.) in front of -the temple is a square stone ruin, that probably formed the entrance of its dromos ; near it is another small build- ing of similar materials; and 130 paces to the S.E. is a Boman temple of brick, stuccoed, about 18 ft. square, on a stone platform, the outer face of its walls ornamented with pilasters and half-columns. In form, size, and appearance, it resembles 2 buildings near Rome, one called the temple of EedicuVviB, eiinidi \^<& c^^x «b ^apposed MgypK HOUTE 18. — KAJSB KHAHOON — ^DIMAY. 383 tomb, outside the Porta Pia. The roof is arched, and the door in front opens upon a small area, part of the platform upon which it stands; and the principal difference between this and the above ^erj ^Sk3N^\^a^<^ state, TYk^B sv\fe ol "awssSiaa ^s!«^ X^km^ been at D\in&^, ox ^\. ^ n 99 99 >» 9) Luxor (Thebes) 3 days. Esneh Shrs. Edfoo 6 Silsilis and Eom Ombo . . 3 Assooan (for Elephantine, PhiUo and the First Cataract) . • 1} day. On the way down the steamer stops 1 hour at Eom Ombo, Edfoo, Esneh, Luxor, Keneh, and Asyoot. 2. From the First to the Second Cataract, This service is in correspondence with the other. The steamers are smaller, and only hold from 10 to 15 persons. The time taken is 15 days there and back, and the fture is 352. if the ticket is taken for the whole journey from Cairo, 402. if for this voyage separately. The stoppages made on the way up are : Dabod 2 hrs. Eerdaseh 2 E^Iabsheh 4 Dendoor 2 GerfHossayn 2 Dakkeh 2 Maharraker 2 Sebooa Ihr. Eorosko . . . • 3 hrs. Amada •• 2** Derr «. ,. 4^ Ibreem 2 „ Aboo Simbel Iday. W^y Hal&h (Second Cataract) 1 „ There is only one class in these boats, and no difibrenoe is made in the obarge for a aervant, (Children ftom S to 10 ^eat^ \MbM >eA<»x '!1^<& iSidat » » »» »> >» »> Egypt c. VOYAGE with a dragoman. 387 may be made to include a stay at the Luxor Hotel. Arrangements can be made for taking a passage in the steamer to any place if there is room. Tickets can be procured at Messrs. Cook and Son's office, Ludgate Circus, or at Alexandria, or at Cairo, where Messrs. Cook have an office near Shep- heard*s Hotel. As the space in each steamer is limited, it is better, in order to make sure of a berth, not to take the ticket till reaching Cairo. c. Voyage in a Dahabeeyeh with a Dragoman. This, as has been said, is the most comfortable, but, chiefly owing to the longer time that it takes, the most expensive way of travelling up the NUe. It will take, under the most favourable circumstances, 7 weeks to the First Cataract and back, and 3 weeks more if the voyage is prolonged to the Second Cataract. The usual plan is to hire a Dragoman (see pp. 7 and 159) to provide everything — ^boat, crew, cook, servants, food, donkeys, guides, g^uards, and all extras, except wine and spirits — either at so much the day or so much the trip. In either case the cost will vary according to the size and consequent cost of ^hire of the boat, the number of the party and the scale of living, and, it may be added, the value which the (h*agoman sets upon his own services. TPrices vary much in Egypt, and it is difficult to give exact figures, but the following will give a fair idea of the sums asked by different dmgomen (1) by the day, (2) by the trip. (1) By the day, the traveller stopping where he likes and when he likes. For 2 persons, from 3Z. to 42. ; 3 persons, 42. to 52. ; 4 persons, 4Z. 108. to 62. Beckoning the time required to go to the First Cataract and back at 2 months, and to the Second Cataract and back at 3 months, this would, at a rough calculation, make the whole expense of the journey to the First Cataract, for 2 persons, from 2002. to 2502. ; for 3 persons, from 2502. to 3002. ; and for 4 persons, from 3002. to 3502. To the Second Cataract, for 2 persons, 3002. to 3502. ; for 3 persons, 3502. to 4502. ; for 4 persons, 4002. to 5002. The charge is lower in proportion as the distance traversed is greater, and the number of the party larger. (2") By the trip. According to this arrangement the dragoman engages to take you to the First or Second Cataract and back for a stipulated sum, so much time being allowed for stoppage at different places. For 4 persons to the First Cataract and back, with an allowance of 10 or 15 days' stoppages, from 3002. to 3502. and 4002. ; to the Second Cataract and back, 4002. to 4502. and 5002. Of course, if a large and luxuriously £tted-up boat is required, and a generally lavish style of living, all these estimates will be very much in- creased. In choosing between a contract by the day and a contract by the trip, the following considerations should be borne in mind. The advantage of the contract oy trip is that there is no chance of time being unnecessarily wasted on the road, for it is to the dragoman's advantage, as it is to the captain's and crew's, who are also hired by the trip, to do the voyage in as short a time as possible ; and Instead of 3 months being occupied in getting to the Second Cataract and back, it may be done in 9 or 10 weeks. The disadvantage is that you are not master of your own boat, but are often obliged to go on whether you like it or not, under penalty of being in perpetual collision with the dragoman as to whether a stoppage, which you may <:oiEi^\!^<&t \y^ic>«»»»x^ .,%& to be ^ducted from the stipulated allowance oi stop^Oi.^^^. \cl \Xi.^ ^v^ ^^ tbiie eontrady on the other hand, the dragoman is tem^Ve^ Xo ^^«^ ^"^ ^l.^^v appoiion^, bom to proloDg the journey. But ^iiia moi* V> «b Ci«J^»^». «»Rsex. ^ 'S> ^ 388 C. VOYAGE WITH A DRAGOMAN. Scct. VII. be met by stipulating that the number of days shall not exceed a certain limit — say 2 months to the First and 3 to the Second Cataract and back, and arranging for a lower rate of payment per day for every day beyond the time agreed on. In the event of the traveller not having engaged a dragoman before reach- ing Egypt, it will be well for him on arriving at Cairo (not at Alexandria) to obtain estimates from 3 or 4 of those who present themselves with good recommendations, and at the same time to visit a number of the Dahabeeyehs at Boolak (see p. 160), and after selecting one or more that suit him, ask the dragoman whom he may think of engaging what his charge per day would be with such or such a boat. The traveller should also carefully examine the boat himself, and make inquiry as to the captain (reiyis), as his safety and comfort will very much depend on having a good and experienced captain who can select a good crew, and keep them in strict discipline and good humour. Form of Contract. — The traveller can have a regular form of contract drawn up for him at the Consulate, in which he can embody any particular points he wishes. The charge for preparing this contract and witnessing the sig- natures is 11. Or he can draw up lus own contract, and merely pay 5«. for having the signatures witnessed. The following form of contract will be found to meet pretty nearly every requirement. Agreement between A B, dragoman, and C D and others, English travellers. (1) (In time contract.) A B agrees to serve the said D and his com- panions as Dragoman and general servant on a voyage up the Nile to and back to Cairo, through and in Egypt, and other places they may wish to visit ; the route to be taken, and the time, place, and duration o( halts and stoppages, to be entirely under their direction. (1) (In trip contract.) A B agrees to serve the said D and his com- panions as Dragoman and general servant, and to take them to and back to Cairo in weeks, with an allowance of days' stoppages; tiie time, place, and duration of these stoppages to be entirely under their direction. (2) The said A B shall provide boat (approved of by C D and his com- panions), boat furniture, service, canteen, bedding, all necessary food in suflS- cient quantity, and of the best quality ; lights, servants, &c. He shall also provide donkeys and guides for seeing the usual objects of interest, viz. Beni Hassan, Asyoot, Abydus, Keneh, Denderah, Thebes and its environs, Erment, Esneh, Edtoo, and Philse (and any others that may he specified) ; shall pay for guards for the boat at night when required, and satisfy all proper demands for backsheesh. He shall also pay all the expenses for passing the Cataract, and the wages of the pilot between Philse and Wady Halfah. (3) The said A B engages that the boat shall be clean and in good repair, and properly fitted with a good kitchen, sails, oars, awnings, cordage, and punt-poles, and with sufficient spare ropes, &c., on board to remedy accidents without causing delay. That the crew shall consist of a captain (reiyis), 2nd captain or steersman (mestdhmel)^ the proper complement of able- bodied men, and a cook-boy. That there shall be one small boat (sanddJ£) or if required, two, in good repair, and provided with proper rowlocks and oars, and, if required, with sails. (4) The said A B agrees that he alone is responsible for the safety of the boat and for all accidents that may occur, 01161 «ll Yoiuries, whether in passing tie Cataract, or &om fire or other casuaUVea. T\i«A.\.\ift^\iQ\'b>K».\.^i8J!\\»^^tthe Egypt. d. voyage without a dragomak. 389 entire command of the above-named G Dand his companions, and that no other passengers or merchandise be admitted without their consent. He also en- gages to keep the boat in such a state of cleanliness (Ihe decks to be washed every morning) and good order as shall be agreeable to the passengers ; and to take care that the sheet of the sail is never lashed. (5) The said A B undertakes to keep the crew in order and obedient to orders, and that they shall use proper diligence in tracking, punting, and row- ing ; that they shall stop for baking only at Asyoot and Esneh in going up the river, and at Esneh in coming down ; and that they shall not, if the Sractice is objected to by G D and his companions, walk across the upper eck during the day. (6) The said A B engages to be responsible for his cook and servants, that they are fitted for their work, and are clean and trustworthy. (7) The said A B engages to provide clean sheets at least once a week, and sufficient clean towels, tablecloths, napkins, and other linen ; also to have the passengers' clothes washed as desired. (8) The said A B engages to provide the following meals daily — Breakfast f consisting of tea or coffee, with fresh milk; bread, butter when it is to be pro- cured ; chicken, roast or boiled ; eggs, marmalade, or jam. Lunchy consisting of bread and biscuit, cheese, oranges, figs, walnuts, dates. Dinner, to consist of soup, roast and boiled meats (three dishes of meat), potatoes, pudding, &c., with coffee after dinner; and no extra charge to be made for an occasional g^est. Goffee to be supplied whenever it is called for. (9) (In time contract.) In consideration of the fulfilment of the above articles on the part of A B, the above-named C D and his companions agree to pay to the said A B the sum of per day each, or per day for the whole number, for the space of days, beginning to reckon from the day of leaving Gairo. Two-thirds of the sum total to be paid in advance, and one-third on returning to Cairo. If the above number of days be exceeded, the rate of payment for each extra day to be less. (9) (In trip contract.) In consideration, &c., the sum of . Two- thurds to be paid in advance, and one-third on returning to Gairo. Signed this day of 18 , at the British Gonsulate, Gairo. G D, on behalf of the party above-named. Stamp and signature of Consul. A B, Dragoman. If the contract is for going to the 2nd Cataract, it should be distinctly understood that no difficulty will be experienced in taking the boat up the 1st Cataract, and a clause should be inserted in the contract binding the dra- goman to pay a fine of from 151. to 202. if the boat be not taken up. Very large boats cannot, of course, pass the Cataract. It only remains to be said, that for those who wish thoroughly to enjoy the Nile voyage without trouble aud bother of any kind, a good dragoman and a comfortable boat are essential ; and for an invalid they are indispensable. For information as to the wages of a dragoman, and those of other servants, and for prices and description of boats, see pp. 159, 160. d, YOTAGS IN A DaHABBETEH WITHOUT A Dl3.kQ^l&KS. For those who do not speak Arabic, and do not \aio>Ji >i)aft ^wj^ «A ^''^^s^^! of iba cooDtryr, ihia mode of making the journey \a iiot \j^i'\i^Tigeons, and turkeys can always be bought, beef seldom or never after caving Cairo. Fresh vegetables are rarely procurable: the one exception is the onion, which is to be found everywhere, and is the best in the world. A small broad bean, a kind of lettuce, and small cucumbers may generally be bought in the villages on market-days ; and wild cress is often to he foimd near the river banks in the early spring. Eggs are generally plentiful, and milk, principally buffalo's, may always be bought in the early morning at any village. Fresh butter can be procured sometimes, and would be good if it were properly made and not so dirty. Kishteh, a sort of Devonshire cream, is an excellent thing, and can be made by any cook. A certain quantity of fresh meat, and some pigeons, chickens, and turkeys should be laid in at Cairo. Meat is sold by the oke (about 2| lbs.), or the rotl (rather more than 1 lb.). The prices of things vary very much, but the following will be found nesur the mark :-r- Beef .... 6to 7 piastres the rotl. Mutton . . . 5to 6 ,9 A Chicken, big . 7to 9 Jt Do., small . 4to 6 yy A Turkey, big . 50 to 60 9» Do., small . 20 to 40 f) Pigeons . . . 6to 8 >» the pair. A sheep, big . . 250 to 400 »» Eggs .... 5to 6 » the dozen. Fresh butter . . 12 to 15 >• the rotl. Milk .... lito 2 >l >» Nearly all these things are cheaper in Upper Egypt, and it is a good thing to fill the coops with turkeys, chickens, and pigeons at some place where they are cheap. This should certainly be done before entering Nubia, as everything there is scarce and dear. 6. Additional Hints. All information with regard to wine, medicines, clothes, shooting, and other matters which equally concern those who go with, and those who go with- out, a dragoman, will be found in the Introduction^ 6, or Sect. I., General In" formation, § 8, 6,/, and § 12. A few useful hints, however, may still be added. The Boat and things needed on it. — Do not be too much taken with a boat because it has some modem appliances such as, for instance, water turned on, taps, basins and plugs, &c. First of all this means that there is a cistern on deck into which the water has to be pumped, an operation which it will be found extremely difficult to get done regularly ; and then the cistern when full adds considerably to the top hamper of the boat. Moreover, the pipes which lead from the cistern to the baths and basins are generally so small that the flow of water is provoMngly slow. The fixed basins too are never properly cleaned out, and the chain and plug always hold soapsuds, &o. Bemember that the river is convenient and buckets handy and cheap. Some particular people ma^r object to the poultry which has to be taken being kept on the deck, and in this case they should stipulate for a second sandal in which to place the coops. Those who wish to be certain of always havm'gitQi^ \sS!2&.^^!r^^^^^Ni^ take a goat with them, which can be kept i]i\2iQi& ^qcsoti^ f^dsi^^sii^L. However free the boat may be from rata at ^as^asv^, ^5t Sa^^rj "^T^^^ ibai eome may come on board from th.© cami^arj \wa\a \is«s: -^C^^s^ "^ 392 €. ADDITIONAL HINTS. Sect. VIL dahabeeyeh is moored during the voyage, therefore it is a good thing to take one or twq iron rat-traps. Many boats are provided with mosquito-curtains ; but unless there is any inducinjj; reason, such as bilge-water, to cause the presence of mosquitos, no annoyance ought to be experienced from them after leaving Cairo. Neither bugs nor fleas should be found on any properly clean boat, but it is as well to have some Persian flea-powder, which is the best remedy for these unwelcome visitants. Flies are a great plague on the Nile, and the most effectual snare for them is what is known as " fly-paper," which can be procured at Cairo ; fly-flaps are also very useful. If the traveller be a smoker, he will know how to supply his own wants in that line ; but even though he himself should not smoke, he ought to take with him a little Turkish tobacco and paper for cigarettes, and Grebelee tobacoo for pipes, too;ether with one or two chibooks, so as to be able to offer a smoke to any native visitors. Some common tobacco also may be taken for occasional distribution among the crew. Coffoe should always be handed round on the occasion of any visit, and it is well to have a few bottles of strop for making the so-called sherbet. It is customary to fly the national ensign of the passengers at the stem of the dahabeeyeh, and a special distinguishing pennant at the yard-end : the former can be bought at Cairo, and the latter made, but it is better to bring them from England. The Dragoman. — Insist upon your dragoman always helping to wait at table; and never allow liim to give himself the air of being master of the boat, the crew, the servants, and yourself ; but keep him strictly in his place, as a servant hired to carry out your wishes, and not as a great personage, con- descendingly showing you up and down the Nile, and hardly allowing you to choose where you will go or what you will do. The Grew. — Strict discipline should be maintained with the crew, and in- variable obedience to orders, whatever they may be, with the full understanding of course that they are reasonable and just. But the stick need never be resorted to : firmness and the determination of being obeyed seldom fail to command respect and obedience ; for, when they know you wiU be obeyed, they * will seldom disregard an order. When once that obedience is established, then you may be as indulgent as you like ; and every good office, every reward, will be received as a favour. Without it, kindness will be construed into fear or ignorance ; every attempt will be made to deceive the too easy traveller ; and in order to have a moment's peace, he will be obliged to have recourse to the very means he had been hoping to avoid ; by applying to some governor, or by substituting too late severity, either of which will only draw upon him hatred and contempt. One thing is, however much they may try to impose on one whom they think to get the upper hand of, they never harbour any f. clings of revenge. They are like the frogs in the fable with the log of wood. In short, be strict and just, witliout unnecessary violence, in order to have the satisfaction of being indulgent. When properly managed, no people are so willing or good-natured as the Nile boatmen; when not understood, none so troublesome. When going ashore to shoot or visit any ruins, it is customary to be accompanied by one of the crew, for the purpose of carrying anything that may be required. A few piastres to buy tobacco may occa- sionally be given in return for this service. Some travellers, especially if there are ladies, will find it more agreeable not to allow the crew to come across the quarter-deck during the daytime. They can easily go along the side from end to end of the boat. The traveller will probably be asked be^oie \c«i.v\Tig; Cairo for money to ^u^ the crew a tambourine and a tardboolca, «. ««i\. ol ^ccwnv, 'Ooso^ Vv^nig Ugy^L e. additional hints. 393 the musical instruments with which the sailors accompany their songs. There is no necessity for acceding to this request, and some may not care to encourage the men in singing ; but few would probably be disposed to put a stop to what is one of the chief delights of a Nile boatman, and is itself in moderation not unpleasing to the ear. Sailing. — One very necessary precaution in sailing is to order the captain to for- bid the boatmen to tie the sails, and to insist upon their liolding the rope called shoghdol in their hands, which is termed keeping it khdlvs, *' free ;** for to the neglect of this precaution almost all the accidents that happen on the Nile are to be attributed: In those parts where the mountains approach the river it should be particularly attended to, as at Gebel Sheykh Umbarak, Gebel et- Tayr, and thence to Sheykh Timay, Gebel Aboo Faydah, Gebel Sheykh Hereedee, and Gebel Tookh below Girgeh. In a high wind, and when strong gusts may be expected, it is better to run no risk, and not to attempt to pass such mountains till the wind has abated. Care should also be taken to have the proper quantity of ballast on board, "which is often curtailed in order to make the boat lighter for towing. Backsheesh. — It has been truly said that *^ no estimate of the expense of life in Egypt would be at all complete without a due reference to bacJcsheesh,, .. Backsheesh is the first word that meets the ear on landing in the country ; it is the last that salutes it on leaving . . . . It is a bore from which there is no escape .... But backsheesh is not a mere bore, for it is the motive power of Egypt. The mechanist, who with a lever would move the earth, could with backsheesh turn Egypt upside down, or put a girdle round her deserts with the Nile . . . . It makes your stay in Egypt agreeable, and soothes every diflSculty, social, political, or official .... But tiiis potent djin must be used with discretion, or it will turn and rend you. Give when it is customary to give, and on the scale that is sanctioned by long use, and you will be respected and liked. Give too often, inopportunely, or in excess, and it were better for you not to give at all . . . . Common sense wUl here as ever point out that middle path so safe to travel in, so easy to stray from ; and by the observance of two simple rules backsheesh may be made an useful servant. Never give except where an extra service justifies, or custom prescribes the gift." — F. Eden. Backsheesh to the crew is now specially mentioned in the contract as devolving on the dragoman ; and the men have no right to expect a piastre from the traveller. He may, however, at such places as Thebes and Aissooan ffive them a small sum, say 10 francs between them, especially if they have behaved well, and have had a good deal of towing. At the end of the voyage it is customary to give a present to the captain, the steersman, and the crew. This should be done in the following proportion : three times as much to the captain, twice as much to the steersman, and half as much to the cook-boy as to each man. A fair present at the end of an ordinary voyage to the 1st Cataract and back would be 11. to the captain, 128. to the steersman, 68. to each man, and 3«. to the cook-boy. The money for the captain, steersman, and cook- boy should be given to them separately, and that for the men to the member chosen by them to receive it. Of course if the traveller has reason to be disEatisfi^ with his crew, he will give nothing at all. In the same way circumstances may make him wish to give more than the sums above men- tioned, either to the whole number, or to some one in particular. The cook and other servants have no right to expect any backsheesh, but it is sometimes given. When the traveller hires his own boat, it is customary for him to give a small sum, say 48. between them, to the men at the prin- cipal towns, such as Minieh, Asyoot, Keneh, Thebes, Esneh^ AasiOQii^.^ <«s^^ yfady Halfah, if they have had much towing andYi«i,Nei^otYs^^OX. ROUTE 19. — CAIRO TO I EOTJTE 19. CAIRO TO THEBES BT THE NILE. (450 m.) The Upper Egypt Hailway folkwa tiie W. bank of the Nile aa fee sb Aejoot, 229 miles from Cairo (see p. 152). The station for Cairo U Boolak Dakroor. The different Btations will be pointed out as they are reached. The following liBt of the principal places on the way, with their approxi- mative distanoea from one another, may be usefhl for reference. The banks of the Nile are always referred to as the 'East bank (S.) and the West bank iW.) Cairo (Boolak). toBedra- sbajn (for Sakk^rah) .. 15 Zowyeh 40 BeniBoo^ 18 Peahnn 19 HagMghs, 14 AbooGirgeh 15* Ooloianeh 12^ Mimeh 22^ — 1561 BenibasflOA *• .. ,• 111 Bhoda 11 Hellawee 6 Hat^i Eandeel (for Tel el- Amarna) 7 GebelAbooFaydah.. .. 17 KEaufaloot 11} Aayoot 26 — 93 Abooteeg 15 Oow el Kebeei 14J Tahtah 12^ Boohig 26 Hensheejeh 11 Girgeh 13 Bellianeh (for Abydos) .. 8 Farshoot 18i How and KaHrea-Syad .. 8 Eeneh (for Denderah) ,. 29j Negiddi 22i Luxor (Thebes) 22 — 200i tween Qeezeh oi on (he E., into a broad reach of the Nile, from wbioh we can see across the whole width of the valley from Gebel Uokattam on the E. to the libyan bills on the W. About li m. beyond Old Cairo and the mounds which mark the eite of the still older Babylon is (JJ.) the picturesque Miaqtte of Attar Kn-N^bee, situated on a projaotillg point of the hank, at the end of mi i of i Its I derived from an impression <^ "ths pTopheft /ooleUp," said to be pn- served there. Some, however, derive Attar from Alhor, the Egyptian Venus. A long reach of the Nile extends &om Attar en-Nebbee to the village of ed-Dayr, " the convent," inhabited by Copt Christians ; and iolaad is the vil- lage of Bumaieeit (see p. 278). On the W. the majestic pyramids seem t« watch the departure of Ibe traveller when he quits the capital, u they welcomed bis approach from the Delta : and those of Alraoseer, Sakfciitah and Dashdoc, in socccssion, present themselves to his view, and mark tha progreaa of his joumej. (E.) Before reaching Toora are same low mounds of earth, probably ancient walls of decayed crude bricka, belong- ing to an enclosure, once square, but now partly carried away b; tiie river ; and to the E. of it is aimther loog mound, through which a passage led to the plain behind. (£.) El-MaedToh. In the monntoius behind are the famoua quarries ^ Toora and Mastirah (see Ehvibohs or Caibo, Eic. IX.). (£.) Edwdn, a village known as having been the flrst plsice where the Arabs made a Nilon^cter, under the Khalifate of Abd el-Sleldt about the year 700 aj). It was built by Abd el- Azeez, the brother of the Khalif ; b«t being found not to aoawer thne, a new one was made bj Bl-Veleed, his ntcoesBor, about 10 yean afte^ wards, at the lale of Boda, when it tiBs oontinned ever BJnoe. Part of the ot ^^&sV«&u.'¥l'3Qau3ter was 450 \piUei Egypt ROUTE 19. — ^bedreshayn — pyramid op maydoom. 395 found near the village. Aboolfeda speaks of Helwan as a very delightful village, and it was perhaps from this that it obtained its name, helwa sig- nifying " sweet ; " though it possesses nothing particular to recommend it on this score. The Baths of Helwdn are 3 miles inland (see Environs op Oaibo, Exc. IX.). (TT.) Bedreshayn, 15 m. (Eailway Stat.), is nearly opposite Helwdn. The village is a little way from the bank ; and a short distance farther inland may be seen the mounds of Mitrahenny, marking the site of Memphis, with the pyramids of Abooseer, Sakkarah, and Dashoor, in the distance. This is the best point on the river from which to make the excursion to Sakkarah (see Environs op Cairo, Exc. VIII.). About 4 m. farther up the stream you pass (W.) STichuk, with the pyra- mids of Dashoor 4 m. inland ; and Masghdon, 2 m. to the westward of which is El Kafr^ a small village, from which one of the principal roads leads to the Fayoom across the desert. The scenery here on the W. bank is very lovely in the winter ; glades of young bright-green com run up into groves of beautiful palms, with here and there a splendid sycamore-fig filling up the open spaces in the landscape. The sandbanks in this part of the river, beginning indeed from a little way S. of Cairo, will be found covered with wild-fowl and large flocks of pelicans in the early winter. (TF.) In this neighbourhood, pro- bably near Dashoor, were ^^ the cify of Acanthus, the temple of Osiris, and the grove of Thebaic gum-produciug Acanthus," mentioned by Strabo; which last may be traced in the many groves of that tree (the sent, or Aca.cia NUoticd) which still grow there at the edge of the cultivated land. The town of Aoanthus was, according to Dio- doms, 120 stadia, or 15 m. p., from Memphis, equal to 13J or nearly 14 £ng. m., which, if correct, would place it much farther S., to the west- ward of Ka& el-Iy&t, though it is generally supposed to have stoodi near I>aflhoor. (TT.) Near Kdfr el-Aidt, at the ex- tremity of a large bend of the river, is the supposed site of Menes* Dyke (see p. 267). (TT.) At Tdhaneht about IJ m. from Eair el-Aidt, and near the edge of the desert, are mounds, but no remains except small fragments of stone ; and the same at Babayt, about 1 m. N.N.W. from Kafr el-Aidt. Already, before reaching Kafr el- Aiat, are descried the two ruined pyramids of Lisht, built of small blocks of limestone, which were probably once covered with an exterior coating of larger stones. ( W.) 3 m. to the N.W. is a conical hill resembling a pyramid. It is, how- ever, merely a rock, with no traces of masonry ; and in this part of the low Libyan chain are a great abundance of fossils, particularly oyster - shells, with which some of the rocks are densely filled, in some iustances re- taining their glossy mother-of-pearl surface. Many trunks of petrified trees, similar to those noticed above (Environs op Cairo, Exc. III.), have been found in the same range. (E.) Wddy Ghomeir opens upon the Nile at Es-Suf, By this valley runs the southernmost of the roads across the desert to Suez. ( W.) About 4 m. inland from Bigga is the Pyramid of Maydoom, near the village of that name. It is called by the Arabs Haram eL-Keddb, or "the False Pyramid," from the idea that the nucleus is of rock built round so as to give the shape of a pyramid. It is well worth a visit, as being probably the oldest monument in Egypt, there being reasons for assigniag it to Seneferoo, the last king of the Ulrd Dynasty. Bigga is the nearest point to it on the river, but donkeys are more easily pro- cured at Wasta higher up the river (p. 397), whence, however, the ride will take 3 hrs. The country passed through is very rich and fertile. We first reach the Village of Maydoon^ on a high mound, and occupying the site of the ancient city ot M.ei-tum^ ''<'\3^q^i<5:^ ^ Turn " t\i© Ti«CQft o^ VKtfSa. oc^so*. 's^ 1 monxmieixta ol \JaaYSix^T>Ta»2>'^' 396 ROUTE 19. — CAIRO TO THEBES. Sect. VII. When the town is passed the pyra- mid is in full view, and from its standing alone and on the highest ground within several miles, it has a very imposing appearance. It has never been opened, and when we con- sider that it may be several centuries older than the Great Pyramid of Geezeh, it has a wonderfully fresh and new look. The stone is of a peculiarly rich orange colour. It has now the appearance of a square tower in three stages, rising from an artificial mound like the keep of a Norman castle. M. Mariette observe3 that this pyramid should be compared with that of King Oonas, known as the Miistabat el- Pharaoon, addiug that the tombs of the ancient empire consisted of a square base with or without a pyramid super-imposed. This is an example which is neither a mastabah nor a pyramid. Lepsius supposes that the angles were filled up and that the sides sloped from the ground as in other pyramids. The mound is about 120 ft. from the surrounding plain. The first stage above the mound is 70 ft., the second 20 ft, and the third, which was origi- nally about 30 ft., is now reduced to about 25 ft. The total height from the foot of the mound is therefore about 230 ft., but it is impossible to say with accuracy where the masonry actually begins. A smaller mound near the pyramid probably conceals a tomb, but it has not been opened. A hundred paces to the N. is another similar mound, which has been found to be wholly artificial, consisting mainly of crude brick, of which the E. fece was plastered and whitewashed. A stone mastabah, now much dilapidated, stood in front of the entrance to the tomb. On it is some very tine sculpture commemorating Nefermat, a member of the household of Seneferoo. Some of the pictures are in the low relief characteristic of the sculpture of the ancient empire, but others are made by incising the whole figure and filling it with a coloured composition of great hardness. 7'Iie style, one of the earliest practised, wus revived undvr Rnmcses 11., vxT\d\iTvt ica\.. TiV.e^ ^x^«KOL\.\Jftfe\^^s^ei- \ occurs in a modified form at Tel el- Yahoodeh. Nefermat's hawks with their numbers are over the doorway. At the sides are representatives fix)in his estates bearing offerings, and each marked with the name of a village or town. Among them is the name of Maydoom. Nefermat himself is repre- sented in several places, and his wife, Atet, is seen on the wall to the right. On the left door-post are his three sons, the eldest a full grown man, the youngest a child. About 50 ft. N. in the same mound is the tomb of Atet, the widow of Nefermat. She is represented to the right above the door in a most inter- esting scene. A man is snaring wild- fowl in a net, which 3 others present to the lady. Observe how the net is arranged over the door so as to form an ornament. Other scenes, hunting and agriculture, occur within and at the sides, and the lady Atet is shown claspinj^: the knees of her hus- band on the left. Here was found the marvellous fresco of the geese, now in the Boolak Museum (No. 988), of which M. Mariette says that in it, the earliest picture of the kind in the world, "we see large- ness of style allied with complete finish." Another mound of a similar charac- ter adjoins on the N. In it are also 2 tombs. The first is that of Kheit, and Mara, his wife. The mastabah is of limestone, covered with sculptures, among which occur the hieroglyphs (rf the name of Seneferoo. A few paces farther is the ruined tomb of Ba-hotep, a son of Seneferoo, and Nefert, his wife. Of it the remains are very scanty, consisting for the most part of a heap of limestone blocks ; but in the tomb were found, in 1872, the marvel- lous statues (No. 987), now in the Boolak Museum. At no subsequent period did Egyptian art produce works more lifelike or " speaking,"* yet these are the oldest sculptiures in the world to which anything like a date can be assigned. Students of hieroglyphics will find t\\o macTV^V\oTkS «jt Maydoom of great Egyj^t. ROUTE 1 9. — ATFEEYEH — ^ABOOSEER — ZAYTOON. 397 isting examples of the art of writing, and are remarkable not only for the simplicity of the grammatical forms, but for the beauty and clearness of the letters. In the canal, the Bahr Yoosef, which passes close by, great numbers of wildfowl will often be found in the late winter and early spring. At 9uff^ about 1 m. N., are the mounds of an ancient town. (JS,) At Atfeeyeh are the mounds of AphroditopoliSt or the city of Athor, the Egyptian Venus. It presents no monuments; but a stone with the name of Eameses 11. has been found in a ruined mosque. It may be well to re- mind those who are particularly in- terested in the discovery of monuments, that an occasional visit to the sites of old cities, even when reputed to have no remains, may be repaid by some monument accidentally laid open by the peasants while removing the nitre for their lands. The Coptic name of Aphroditopolis is Tpeh, or Petphieh, easily converted into the modern Arabic Atfeeyeh. It was the capital of the Aphroditopolite nome, and noted, as Strabo tells us, for the worship of a white cow, the emblem of the goddess. {K) Opposite Zdwyeh, at the N. corner of the low hills overlooking the Nile, is Broombdy where mounds mark the site of an old town, probably Anq/- ronpolis. That city is supposed to have owed its name to the stone anchors said to have been cut in the neighbouring quarries. (IT.) Zdwyeliy 40 m., appears to be Jsewn, in the Coptic Naesi, the city of Isis, which stood near the canal lead- ing to Pousiri, or Nilopolis, and thence to the Crocodilopolite nome. This canal on the N., with part of the pre- decessor of the Bahr Yoosef on the W., and the Nile on the E., formed the island of the Heracleopolite nome; and the city of Hercules was, according to Strabo, towards the southern extre- mity of the province, of which it was the capital. And this agrees with the positioQ of Andsieh, or Um el-Keemdn, ** tha Mother of the Mounds,*' as it is often called by the Arabs, from the lofty mounds of the old city, which are seen inland about 12 m. to the west- ward of Benisoo^f. (E.) Wasta (Railway Stat,), close to Zdwyeh. [Railway to the Fayoom (see Rte. 18) one train a day each way in IJ hr. to Medeenet el-Fayoom, 25 m. The train leaves Medeeneh at 9.40 a.m., and returns from Wasta on the arrival of the trains from Asyoot in the after- noon, but the time of its leaving Wasta is very uncertain, as the trains from the S. are often late.] Maydoom maybe conveniently visited from this station (see above). (IF.) Inland, about 9 m. to the S.W. of Zdwyeh is Ahooseery the site of Busiris or Nilopolis, in C)ptic Pousiri, upon the canal abeady men- tioned, bounding the Heracleopolite nome to the W. The position of the city of the Nile, at a distance from the river, was evidently chosen in order to oblige the people to keep the canal in proper repair, that the water of the sacred stream might pass freely into the interior, and reach the town, where the god Nil us was the object of par- ticulsur veneration; a motive which has been assigned to the worship of the crocodile in towns situated far horn the river. (IF.) Zaytoon has succeeded to an ancient town called in the Coptic Phau' nigSit, It was in the district of Poushin, the modern Boosh, which is distant about 3 m. to the S., and is marked by lofty mounds. It is re- markable that Zaytoon, signifying "olives," is an Arabic translation of the old name Pha-fi-ni-gdit,*'' the Place of Olives,*' probably given it to show a quality of the land wliich differed from the rest of the Heracleopolite nome. (IF.) Dallas^ about a mile to the S.W. of Zaytoon, appears to be the Tgol (or Tlog) of the Copts; and at Shenoweeyehj close to Boosh, are mounds of an ancient town whose name is unknown. {E.) El'Marazee, a picturesque vil- lage shortly Vjeiox^ t^-mSccc^.^ '^Ijk^jsSc^, Two mWea itom \\. \a ^ ^\{owns of sand overgrown with bushes extend along the edge of its cultivated land; to the W. of which is a sandy plain of great extent, with a gentle ascent, towards the hills of the iSbyan chain : and behind these is a dreary desert. On the S. side are some mounds covered with sand, on which stand several sheykhs' tombs; and others, consisting of broken pottery and bricks, sufficiently mark the site of a large town, whose importance is proved by the many granite columns, fragments of cornices, mouldings, and altars that lie scattered about. Little, however, remains of its early monuments ; and if the size of its mounds proclaims its former extent, the appearance of its modern houses and the limited number of three mosques show its fallen con- dition. Like other towns, B^hnesa boasts a patron saint. He is called et-Tak- rooree, and is known in Arab songs and legendary tales. He is even believed to appear occasionally to the elect, outside his tomb, accompanied bv a numerous retinue of horsemen, but without any ostensible object. There are said to be some caverns on the N.W. side of the town filled with water, and round one of them a row of columns. Behnesa in the time of the Mem- looks enjoyed considerable importance, beiug one of the principal towns of modem Egypt. The 6ahr Yoosef once passed through the centre; but the eastern |x>rtion of the city of Omrhlnchus is no longer part of B^nnesat and, being now called Saw dofehf may be considered a distinct village. At the period of the Arab ROtTE 19.— BEHNESA— EL-KAYS. 401 conquest Be'hnesa was a place of great importance, and of such strength that, of the 16,000 men who besieged it, 5000 are said to have perished in tho assault. The account of this conquest and of the previous history of the city, given by the Arab historian Aboo Abdillahi ben Mohammed el-Mukkari, is more like fable than a real history. (TF.) Above Aboo-Girgeh are el Kays, Aboo-Azees, and other places, whose mounds mark the positions of old towns. El-Kays^ tlie Kais of the Copts, which is laid down in Coptic M^. between Nikafar and Oxyrhinchus, is the ancient Cynopolis, the "City of the Dogs;" and it is worthy of remark, that one of the principal repositories of dog-mummies is found on the opposite bank, in the vicinity of Sheykli Fodl. It was not imusual for a city to bury its dead, as well as its sacred animals, on Ihe opposite side of the Nile; provided the mountains were near the river, or a more convenient spot offered itself for the construction of catacombs than in its own vicinity; and such appears to have been the case in this instance. Til ere is reason to believe that one branch of the Nile has been stopped in this spot, which once flowed to the W. of el-Kays ; and this would accord with the position of Cynopolis, in an island, according to Ptolemy, and ac- coimt for the statement of Mukkaree tliat el-Kays was on the E. bank. Co, which Ptolemy places opposite Cyno- polis, should be some miles inland to the W. Beni Mohammed elrKofodr has succeeded to the old Nikafar mentioned in the Coptic MSS. It was above Kais ; but another town, called Tamma, is placed by them between Cynopolis and Oxyrhinchus. {E.) At Sheylih Fodl, nearly oppo- site el-B^ys, are the sites of two small temples. In the low hills to the S.E., and about 2 m. from the river, are several tombs containing dog-mum- mies; from which it is evident that more than one breed was common in Egypt, as the sculptures also show. Most of the lat^ ' ^'^ 402 ROUTE 19. — CAIRO TO TEtEBES. Sect TIL Church." Some of the many mummy- caves are only small square holes, or coffins in the rock. On the way to them from the village 'you pass over an open space, purposely levelled for a considerable distance ; and here and there are oblong coffins cut in the surface of this rocky plain. There are also some large tombs, to one of which you descend by 8 steps ; and as the Nile water percolates, and rises in it during the inundation to the height of at least 1^ ft., it has obtained the name of Beer Sitteh Mariam (" Mary's Well "), It consists of a large central chamber, 7 peices by 4J, with 4 recesses on each side and 2 at the end, each containing a coffin cut like the rest of it in the rock. It is much respected by the Christians, who still bury their dead in a mound in the vicinity. (E.) In the hills behind Sheykh Hassan, on the E. bank, are extenisive limestone-quarries. Near them are some crude-brick remains, with broken pottery; and in a chapel or niche in the rock is a Christian inscription. A singular isolated rock stands in the plain behind Nezht esh-Sheykh Has- san ; and similar solitary masses of rock, left by the stone-cutters, are met with to the S., with other quarries, and a few small tombs. About 2| m. to the S. of Nezlet esh-Sheykh Hassan are the vestiges of an ancient village ; and in the plain within the mouth of the Wddy eS'Serareeyeh are an old station, or fort, built of crude brick, and another village. The river makes a consider- able bend to the W., just before reaching (TF.) Goldsaneh, 12^ m. (Ely. Stat.), a large village, standing on mounds high above the Nile. The river has eaten into the bank here very con- siderably, and stones have bee^i placed to check its encroachments. (E.) At the edge of the low rocky hills, just beyond the village of Serareeyeh, are the remains of two ancient towns or villages ; and a little farther to the S. these hills recede to the 8.E., and form the northern side oftheWadyed-Dayr. OntheN.W.of j^ mouth are Bome large limestone grotto temples dedicated to Athor, and bearing the name of Meneptah, the son of Bameses II. The custom of placing quarries and other localities under the peculiar protection of some god was observed by the Egyptians from the earliest to the latest periods; the quarries of Toora and Masarah, and the hills of the pyramids, were under their tutelary deity; and the Latin inscription (rf Caracalla at Assooan speaks of *^ Jupi- ter- Ammon, Cenubis, and Juno, under whose guardianship the hill was placed," where new quarries had been opened. Round the comer of the rock, out- side these grottos, kingRameses UI. is represented with the crocodile-headed god Savak and Athor, receiving the honourable distinction of " president of the assemblies ;*' and at the side are two large ovals of the same PharadL In the low rocks just below to the west- ward is a tomb, consisting of 3 small chambers, without sculptures. At the extreme end of the hills, on the S. side of Wady ed-Dayr, are ves- tiges of a small town, and near it some tombs and quarried rocks. A ruinea wall of crude brick as- cends the low northern extremity of the Gebel et-Tayr ; and some distance farther up to the E., near the spot where the mountain road descends into the Wady ed-Dayr, about E.SJB. from the convent, is a bed of trap rock, rarely met with in the valley (J the Nile. The wall appears again at the ravine called Wdciy el-Agdos, 4 or 5 m. farther S. (W.) Semaldot lies a short distance inland, about 5 miles S. of GtoldsaneL It is rather a large village, remark- able at a distance for a tall and grace- ful minaret rising firom amidst a thick grove of palm-trees. (E.) We now approach the lofty and precipitous cliffs of Oebel et-Tayr, which rise abruptly from the river to a height of several hundred feet Great care should be taken in sailing past them on account of the sudden gusts of wind, which are very danger- ous (see p. 393). On its flat summit JOS luuuui are eume large iunesuuue \ uu» vo^so y« o*jo), \ju lus uai bluiiuu* quaniea, in which were two paantedV &ta\ida )£!& Gcm5QR3a^^^^^^ 404 nOTTTE 19. — CAIRO TO THEBES. SectVU. chase ; nor did the Government incur the expense of paying their chiefs, as at the present day, to deter them from hostility. At the Gisr el-Agoos are the remains of an ancient village, and a few grottoes ; and above the town of Gebel et-Tayr are other grottoes. (E.) Two m. beyond this is the site of an ancient town, now called T^hneh. or Tehneh oo Mehneh, Its lofty and extensive mounds lie at the mouth of Wady Tehneh, f m. from the river, under an isolated rockv eminence of the eastern chain of hills, whose pre- cipitous limestone cliffs overhang the arable land that separates them from the Nile. Above a rough grotto in the lower part of the rock, about | m. to the S. of the ancient town, is a Greek inscription of the time of Ptolemy Epiphanes; which, from the word Acoris in the third line, appears to indicate the position of the city of that name. This, however, is not certain. Acoris, the individual who put up the dedication, may have had the same name without its proving anything respecting the site of the city ; and the position of Tehneh does not sufficiently agree with that of Acoris. The inscription is YnEPBASIAEOSnTOAEMAIOY eEOYEni*ANOY2MErAAOYEYXAPI2- TOY AKOPISEPrEOSISIAIMOXIAAISOTEI- PAI " For the welfere of King Ptolemy, the God Epiphanes, the Great Eucharistes, Acdris the Son of Ergeus, to Isis Mocbias, Soteira (the Saviour Goddess)." On one side, below the inscription, is the figure of a goddess ; on the other that of a god, probably Osiris ; and it was perhaps intended that the king should be introduced in the centre, offering to the two seated deities. Above this is a flight of steps cut in the rock, leading to a grotto, which has a niche, but no sculptures. Fol- lowing the path to the S., alor.g the weeiem face of the cliffs, you come to a tablet of Bameses m. receiving the falchion from the hand of the croco* dile-headed god Savak, or Savak-Ba, in the presence of Amen ; and beyond this is a large oval, the nomen of the same Pharaoh. Returning thence to the S. side of the isolated rock that stands above the town, you perceive at the upper part of it two figures in high relief, each holding a horse. They represent two Eoman emperors (rather than Castor and Pollux, as some have ima- gined), and between them appears to have been another figure, perhaps of a god. The base of this hill is perforated with tombs, some of which have GreeJk inscriptions, with the names of their owners. At the door of one is a Koman figure standing before an altar, who holds in one hand some twigs, and apparently presents incense with the other. Within is the same person and his son before four gods, but without hieroglyphics ; and the archi- tecture of the grotto is more Roman than Egyptian. It was closed as usual with folding-doors, secured by a bolt There is also a figure of the god Nilus bringing offerings and a bull for sacrifice. In one of these tombs is an encho- rial inscription much defaced; and some have mouldings and ornamental devices of Roman time. Near the above-mentioned grotto, and below the isolated rock overhang- ing the town, is a niche of Eomaa time, with the remains of a mutilated figure in relief within it; and on either side of it is this Greek inscrip- tion, — rPAMMMATA AXPHMATI2T02 E22H, — which shows that people made mis- takes in orthography in those times as at the present day. About 760 fi to the S. of this isolated rock are other grottoes; then a small quarry at the point of the hill ; turning round which to the rt., you enter a ravine, and on reaching the mountain summit to the S.W. you come to some curious . trenches and workings in stone. Dur- \ ing t\ie oacftxA. ^o^x \%»& «ome crevices Egyjpt. ROUTE 19. — TEHNEH— TAHA. 405 in the rock, incrusted with a thin de- posit of crystallised carbonate of lime, here and there assuming a stalactitic form; numerous fossils may also be observed. The trenches at the top of the hill are curious, from their showing a pe- culiar mode of opening a quarry, and of hewing square blocks of stone ; an- other instance of which is met with near the N.W. angle of the second pyramid of Geezeh. They began by levelling the surface of the rock to the extent admitted by the nature of the groimd, or the intended size of the quarry, and this space they sur- rounded by a deep trench, forming a parallelogram; with one of its sides open, to facilitate the removal of the stones. They then cut other parallel trenches along its entire length, about 7 or 8 ft. apart, and others at right angles to them, until the whole was divided into squares. The blocks -were then cut off according to their required thickness. One of the quar- ries of T^hneh has been divided in this manner, and the outer trenches of two others have been traced, oven to the depth of 21 ft. in parts, though their direction is less regular than in the former. In this the trenches are about 1^ and 2 ft. broad, and the squares measure from 6^0 7 ft. 1 in. each way; the whole length of the quarry being 126 ft. by 32 ft. in brefulth; and so conveniently is it placed, that the stones, when sepa- rated from the rock, were rolled down to the valley beneath, without the trouble of carriage. The division into squares enabled them to take off a succession of blocks of the same di- mensions; and layer after layer was removed, according to the depth of the quarry, which continued to be worked downwards as long as the rock remained good. Where circular blocks were required fur the drums, bases, or capitals, of columns, they had only to round off the comers; and this was evidently done in some instances at the quarry of Telineh. On the summit of the hills, about 500 ft. to the S. of these trenches, the 0toiie hav heen quarried to a great extent; and about 100 ft. from the edge of the cliffs overhanging the cultivated land are some chambers sunk in the rock, two of which are coated with red stucco. One of these is round, and measures 17 ft. in dia- meter. It has a doorway leading into it, from a staircase communicating with some small rooms; and on one side is a ledge or hollow, as if in- tended for a water-wheel. The other is square : it has a flight of 7 steps leading down into it from the top, and appears to have been a reservoir to hold water for the use of the work- men. It was doubtless filled by buckets lowered from the brow of the cliff to the water below, which accounts for it being made in this spot, close to the precipitous face of the Mils, which rise abruptly to the heigjht of 400 or 500 feet above the plain. Indeed it is evident that the Nile formerly ran immediately below them, and even now, during the inundation, it rises to the height of 5 ft. 4 in. at their base, covering the narrow strip of alluvial soil it has depo- sited between them and its retiring channel. On the S. of the reservoir is an- other square chamber, like all the others, cut in the rock. In the centre of it is a four-sided isolated mass having an arched door or opening on each face, which probably once sup- ported the centre of the roof; for they were doubtless all covered over ; and on the S. side of this chamber are two niches, and another on the E. Adjoining its S.W. comer is a square pit. The story of the 300 ravens that assemble over this spot every year, in the month of Rebeeyeh-el-owal, and, after soaring above it with repeated cries, fly away to the desert, is evi- dentlv another version of the tale of Gebel et-Tayr, already mentioned. (TT.) Inland, on the opposite bank, is Tdka, or Tdha el~Amoodayn, " of tlie two columns," in Coptic Touh6, once said to have been a large l^la(^^ ^a^*;^ in size to "MLVmBXi. \\a Tassvss^^ ^«2^ mark it as \ii© wxac^aset oii «». «^ cieut town. It \a svr^^^ft^^ ^^^^s^^^ 406 BOUTE 19, — CAIRO TO THEBES. Sect, vn. the site of Theoddsiou, and appears from some Coptic and Arabic MSS. to have been distinguished from a village of the same name beyond Oshmoonayn, by the additional title of Mede^neh, signifying ** city." There is nothing worth noticing "between Tehneh and Minieh : but in the desert behind Dowadeeyeh on the E. bank is an alabaster-quarry. (TT.) Minieh. 22} m. (Rly. Stat., 8} hrs. from Cairo), a large and im- portant town, capital of the province of the same name, and residence of the Mudeer, prettily situated on the 1. bank of the river. It is about 160 m. from Cairo by water, and 151 by rail. There is a Post and Telegraph Office, to which letters can be addressed, in the town. A market is held every Sunday. The first sugar-'factory es- tablished in Egypt was built at Minieh, and it still exists, greatly enlarged and improved. During the cane-harvest, and when the mills are in fuU activity, the town presents a busy and animated appearance. On the river-bank to the N. of the factory is a palace of the Khedive. Minieh is generally styled Miniet ibn ELhaseeb, which is the name given it by Ibn Said. It was also called Monieh, and, according to some, Miniet ibn Fusseel; and they pretend that tradition mentions a Greek king of the place, with the (Ajabic) name of Kasim. In Coptic it is called Moone or Tmdn^t and in the Memphitic dialect Thmdniy signifying "the Abode." It is from the Mou6, "Mansion," as Champollion observes, that the Arabic Minieh or Miniet (by abbreviation Mit), so frequently applied to Egyptian villages, has been derived. Leo Africanus saySy "Minieh, on the W. bank of the Nile, is a very neat town, built in the time of the Mos- lems, by Khaseeb, who was appointed governor under the ELhalifate of Bag- dad. It abounds in every kind of fruit, which, though sent to Cairo, cannot, on account of the distance, arrive fresh in that city, being 170 m. £M?r It boasts many handsome build- los^ and the remains of ancient Egyp- tian monuments. The inhabitants are wealthy, and commercial speculation induces them to travel even as far as the kingdom of Soodan." Over the doorway of a mosque, near the river, are a few fragments of Eo- man-Greek architecture. Within are several granite and marble columns, some with Corinthian capitals; and the devout believe that water flows spontaneously every Friday from one of their shafts, for the benefit of the faith- ful. A sheykh's tomb, overshadowed by a sycamore-tree, on the N. side of the town, near the spot where boats generally moor, has a picturesque effect, and the numerous figures on the bank, and boats on the river, make up a pretty and very typical picture of Nile river- bank scenery. Numerous wild-fowl and other aquatic birds frequent the sandbanks near Minieh. (E.) At the projecting comer of the mountain behind El-Howdrte, on the E. bank, are the remains of an old town, which stands on either side of a ravine. Above it are tombs, which, like the houses, are built of crude brick. Judging from their appearance, and the Coptic characters now and then met with on the stones, they are of Christian time. But the town, though inhabited at a later period by Christians, succeeded, like most of those in Egypt, to one of earlier date; and the discovery of a stone, bearing part of the name and figure of an ancient king, would have removed all doubts on this head, if any had really existed. The name of Amunoph III. has also been found on a stone in these ruins. The Egyptians invariably built a small town, or fort, on the ascent of the mountains on the E. bank, wher- ever the accessible slope of the hills approached the cultivated plain, and left a narrow ^sage between it and the Nile ; as may be seen at Sheykh Embarak, Gebel et-Tayr, Tehneh, Kom-Ahmar, Isbdyda>, and several other places; having the twofold ob- ject of guarding these passes frrom the \ Araba of the desert, and of substita- \ ^g \3[iQ \)ai£t^u \^y^^ ^ foundatioo to their houses, for the more useful soil of the arable land. (J&.) Near Sooddee are several ex- tensive sugar-plantations. The village has probably succeeded to the site of an ancient town. It has mounds, and a few stones of old buildings; and above, at the comer of the mountain, are some grottoes, or tombs, in the rock. (^.) Near Sooadee is the small vil- lage of Neslet ez Zdwyeh, and to the S. of it are vestiges of an ancient village, with a small fortress of rectangular shape on the N. side of the ancient village. To the N. and N.E. of Neslet ez Zowyeh are extensive quarries, ex- tending also between two hills, on each side of the ravine that separates them. In one are remains of mouldings painted over a niche of Christian time, the pilasters having rude capitals. The rock is nummulite. (E.) The modem cemetery of Mi- nioh is at Z&wyet el-Myite^, between Sconce and Kom-Ahmar. Thrice every year they pay a visit of cere- mony to the tombs, in the months of Snow^ (Eed es-Sogheiyer), of Zu- el-Heggeh (Eed el-Kebeer), and Eegeb. The visit lasts 7 days; the 15th of the month, or the full moon, being the principal day. The mode of ferrying over the bodies of the dead, accompanied by the ululations of wo- men, and the choice of a cemetery on the opposite side of the river, cannot fail to call to mind the customs of the ancient Egyptians ; and it is remark- able that they have not selected a spot immediately in front of the town, but have preferred one near the tombs of their pagan predecessors. It was the old Egyptian custom of ferrying over the deaii that gave rise to the fable of Charon and the Styx, which Diodoras very coDsistently traces from the fune- ral ceremonies of Egypt. (j^.) About 2 m. beyond Sooadee are some old limestone-quarries; and at Kom-Ahmar are the mounds of an ancient town. Its name signiiies the '* Bed Mound,*' which it has received from the quantity of pottery that lies scattered over it, and the burnt walls of its cmd^hrick Mouses, It is uncer- EOUTE 19. — BENT HASSAN. 407 tain of what place it occupies the site. Some have supposed it to be Muson ; but it is possible that Alabastron may have stood here. {E.) A short distance beyond Kom Ahmar is Metdhara ; and in the hills near it are some curious sepulchral grottoes with names of old kings, and a singular instance of columns sur- mounted by capitals in the form of the full-blown lotus. And here it may be weU to observe that the usual bell- formed capitals, frequently said to represent the lotus, are taken from the papyrus. i^E,) The caves to the E. of Nesleh Metdhara are very old ; and from the form of their round lintels appear to be of the IVth or Vlth Dynasty. They have been occupied by the early Chris- tians, who have painted the Egyptian Taw, or sign of life, in lieu of the cross, accompanied by the words EIo 0EOo. Others have vestiges of Coptic inscrip- tions. ( W,) At Shardra, on the W. Bank, are the mounds of an ancient town. {E.) About 1 m. beyond Welad Noayr, are some grottoes, without sculpture ; and 2 m. farther, the celebrated grot- toes of Beni HoMan, (E.) Beni Hassan, 14} m. The nearest point to Beni Hassan on the railway is the station of Ahoo Goorgas, By taking beds and provisions for one or two nights, the grottoes might be visited from Cairo by rail, as it might be possible to sleep in the station ; if not, a tent would be required. The grottoes (or, as they are indiscriminately called, tombs, catacombs, or caves) of Beni Hassan are excavated in the rock, at the side of the hills that overhang the valley of the Nile. The bank below, a detritus of sand and gravel, has been cut through by the river, which for- merly encroached on this side, but which has again retired to the west- ward, to the great inconvenience of travellers, who, when the water is low, are obliged to walk nearly two miles from the nearest point their boat c&^sl approaxih. The Speoa XtVatov^o^, caS^&^^s^ "^^ Arabs St».\)V Aix\«t, \^ ^^^s^"^ ^ ^^^ 408 ROUTE 19. — CAIRO TO THEBES. Sect. VIL the S. of the grottoes, near the village of Beni Hassan, and the best way in coming down the river is to stop at the village, visit the Speos first, and then walk to the grottoes, the boat being sent on to the nearest point to the last-named. This will be an excursion of 6 or 7 hours. The Speos may, how- ever, without any great loss be omitted from the programme, and a long and wearisome walk saved; 3 or 4 hours will then be sufficient. It may be well to repeat here the advice already given to tliose travellers who are intending to do the voyage up and down the Nile within a certain time, that they should not stop on the way up to see anything, imless an unfavourable wind prevents the boat making any progress, and then of course the delay, if it occurs near anything worth seeing, may be utilised, and so much time will be saved on the way down. As a rule, the north wind blows merrily in the neighbourhood of Beni Hassan, and the traveller, sitting on the deck of his boat as it breasts the strciim on its way south, will content himself with a view through his glass of the terrace of tombs in the wall-like limestone range. The ancient approach to the grot- toes of Beni Hassan was evidently from the westward ; roads of consider- able breadth lead to them, up the slope of tlie hill from the bank, which are readily distinguished by the stones ranging on either side, as in the roads made by the ancients across the desert, and before some of the tombs of Thebes, and in the mountains near Abydus. These stones consist in a great measure of the large rounded boulders which abound here; and which are not met with, in such num- bers at least, in any other part of the valley. They are calcareous, and full of shells, containing much sUex, very heavy and hard, and externally of a dark-brown colour. The Ghrottoes are cut in one of the strata, which was found to be best suited for stich excavations ; and, from the subjects and hieroglyphics on the wallBf they were evidently intended for eepuJchr&l purposes. The variety \ of the scenes represented in them is particularly interesting; and if the style and proportions of the figures are not equal to those in the catacombs of Thebes, they are not less curious from the light they throw on the manners and customs of the Egyptians. They have also the merit of being of an earlier date than those of Thebes; and in the elegant chaste style of their architecture these tombs may vie with any in the valley of the Nile. The northern differ considerably from the southern grottoes, l^ough so close together and of nearly the same date, and may, perhaps, be thought to excel them in the beauty of their plan, as in the simplicity of their co- lumns, which seem to be the proto- type of the Doric shaft. They are polygons, of sixteen sides, each slightlr fluted, except the inner face, winch was left flat for the purpose of intro- ducing a line of hieroglyphics. Each flute is 8 in. broad. It has no fillet; and the deepest part of the groove vl barely half an inch. The shaft is 16 fL 8^ in. in height, and of 5 ft. diameter, with a very trifling decrease of thick- ness at the upper end, which is crowned by an abacus scarcely exceeding in diameter the simuuit of the coliunn. The ceiling between each architrave, cut in imitation of a vault, has the form of a segment of a circle ; and has once been ornamented with voiions devices ; the four pillars being so ar^ ranged as to divide the chamber into a central nave and two lateral aisles. In these, as in all the excavated temples and grottoes, of Egypt, we have decided proofs of their having been imitations of buildings ; which is contrary to the opinion of some persons, who conclude that the earliest were excavations in the rook, and that constructed monuments were of later date in Egypt. But Independent of our finding stone buildings existing in the country, as about the pyramids, of the same early date as the oldest excavated monuments, we have a proof of these last having imitated in their style the details of constrootive archi- \«c\.wxe. TViWA^ an architrave runs Egyjpt. ROUTE 19. — BENI HASSAN : TOMR OF AM]£nI. 409 (originally a separate member) is placed between the shaft and the architrave, neither of which would be necessary, or have been thought of, in mere excavations ; and so obviously •nnnecessary were they, that in later times the Egyptians frequently omit- ted both the abacus and the archi- trave in their excavated monuments, as in the tombs of the kings, and several grottoes, at Thebes. But this was an after-thought, and the oldest excavated monuments have the imi- tated features of constructive archi- tecture. And following out the same train of reasoning, is it not allowable to suppose that the vaulted form of the ceilings of these grottoes of Beni Hassan were an imitation of the arch ? It was used, if not in temples, at least in the houses and tombs of the Egyp- tians ; for, whatever may be the date of stone arches, crude-brick ones have been foimd of a very early period. The columns in the southern grottoes of Beni Hassan are also of the earliest Egyptian style, though very different £rom those already mentioned. They represent the stalks of four water- Elants bound together, and surmounted y a capital in form of a lotus or a papyrus-bud, which is divided, as the shaft itself, into four projecting lobes. The transverse section of these grottoes is very elegant, and the architrave resembles a depressed pediment ex- tending over the columns, and resting at either end on a narrow pilaster. All the caves of Beni Hassan fare ornamented with coloured figures, or other ornamental devices: and the columns, with the lower part of the walls in the northern grottoes, are stained of a red colour to resemble granite, in order to give them an ap- pearance of greater solidity and splen- donr of material. These imitations of hard stone and rare wood were very commonly practised by the Egyptians, though it is a singular fact that gra- nite, and other stone used in their monuments, are very often coloured, and could not then oe distinguished. But when the real surface of the gra- nite was seen, and it was not painted, t^ hierogl/pbio$ were of one imiform green, or blue, colour. The walls in the grottoes at Beni Hassan have been prepared as usual for receiving the subjects represented upon them by overlaying them with a thin coating of lime, the parts where the rock was defective having been filled up with mortar. The principal part of the figures and the hieroglyphics were merely painted; and some of the latter, in a long series of perpendicular lines round the lower part of the walls of the second tomb, are merely of one uniform green colour, as on granite. The date of these grotto-tombs is the beginning of the Xllth Dynasty, the names of Osirtasen I. and II. being found in them ; and the personages buried in them were state function- aries, belonging to the town whose necropolis was situated in these moun- tains. The principle of their con- struction and decoration is the same as those at the Pyramids and Sakkarah, — 1. an exterior chamber, which, built inside a mastahah there, is here hollowed out of the rock ; 2. a well, opening from the centre or comer of the chamber ; and 3. the subterranean tomb at the bottom of the well, con- taining the sarcophagus and mummy. The paintings represent scenes in the life of the deceased ; they are in fact a sort of pictorial biography, and the mystic signs and divinities common to a later epoch are absent here as at the Pyramids and Sakkarah. (See pp. 76, 261, and 273.) Northern Grottoes— Tomb of Ameni. — The whole of these tombs seem to have belonged to one family, of which Ameni was the patriarch. His is the first tomb to the north. The whole pedigree may be found in Brugsch'a * History of Egypt.* The fanaily seems to have held, by a kind of hereditary right, the government of the adjoining nome of Sah, or Antinoe. The grand- son of Ameni, through his daughter Bakt, continued the line, of which we have here records of the highest historical interest, down to the reign of Osirtasen III., the 5tUkv\i^^1*CcL^ XIIthDynaat'j. Km«i\,V\xsv^>^si.,"^^!>s^"8w military commtMi^'&x \3a\ftL^x Kxivfc\israL- 410 BOUTE 19. — CAIRO TO THEBES. Sect.Vn. year of the reign of Osirtasen I. An inscription over the door gives us the name of his tomb — ^As. It is dedicated to a triad of local gods — Knum, Tater, and Horus. The inscription on the southern door-post dedicates it to Anubis, and that on the northern, to " Osiris of the city of Abydos." The life of Am^ni — related by himself— is written within. He accompanied Osir- tasen against the people of Gush, and into the country of the tribes of Atoo. He escorted the king's heir and his treasures to the town of Coptos, with 400 chosen soldiers from his province. He was, he says, ** full of goodness and of a gentle character, a ruler who loved his town." The latter part of the inscription is especially curious as affording a parallel to the history of Joseph : ** the hungry did not exist in my time, even when there were years of famine. For behold, I ploughed all the fields of Sah, to its frontiers both north and south: thus I found food for its inhabitants, and I gave them whatever it produced. There were no hungry people in it. I gave equally to the widow as to the married woman. I did not prefer a great per- sonage to a humble man in all that I gave away ; and when the inundations of the Nile were great, he who sowed was master of his crop. I kept back nothing for myself from the revenues of the tield." Paintings. — It would be impossible to give a detailed description of the scenes depicted in this and the other tombs ; and indeed the visitor would have some trouble, without lights and a ladder, in making out any of those above the line of sight. It will be sufficient to in- dicate some of the principal incidents. In the tomb of Ame'ni are repre- sented various trades : watering the flax, and its employment for the manufacture of linen cloth; agri- cultural and hunting scenes; wrest- ling ; attacking a fort under cover of the testudo ; dancing ; and the presen- tation of offerings to the deceased, whose life and occupatious are also alluded to. In one place scribes register their acconnta; in another the basti- Jjodo is indicted unsparingly on. de* linquent servants; nor is it confined to men and boys, but extended to the other sex, the difference being in the mode of administering the stripes. The former were thrown prostrate on the ground, and held while pun- ished ; the latter sat, and were beaten on the shoulders. Here chasseurs transfix, with stone-tipped arrows, the wild animals of the desert, and the mountains are represented by the waved line that forms the base of the pictiure. Some are engaged in drag- ging a net full of fish to the shore, others in catching geese and wild-fowl in large clap-nets; in another part women play the harp ; and some are employed in kneading paste and in making bread. The three sitting figures at the end of the tomb, now almost obliterated, are those of Ameni himself, and his two wives. Tomb of Knnm-hotep. — The next tomb is that of Knum-hotep, governor, like Ameni, his grandfiather, of the province of Sah, In the inscription which runs round the bottom of the tomb Knum-hotep recounts the his- tory of his life, and tells us that his father, mother, and ancestors lived in the town of Menai-Shoofoo (pe^ haps Minieh). His mother, we read, went to the king, and obtained for her son the post which her father had held, to which he was foi*mally ap- pointed in the 19th year of Amenem- hat II. By obtaining this honour, and by his conduct, he " rendered the name of his father illustrious.*' His father's name, here alluded to, was Nehera. This inscription contains a list of annual festivals, which may be com- pared with a similar list over the entrance door of the tomb. The prin- cipal festivals mentioned are those of the Dead, the New Year, the Begin- ning of the Solar Year, the Great Panegyric, the Great Heat, the Little Heat, the Five Intercalary D££s> the Twelve Monthly Feasts, the Twelve Half-monthly, '' and all the Feasts in the Valley, or on the Moimtain." Paintings. — The style of the paint- ings in this tomb is very superior .and more highly - finished than in \ t\v^ oWiei, "\)X3i\. ^«s^ \mk^^ suffered Egyjpt, ROUTE 19. — beni hassan: southern grottoes. 411 sadly from the hand of time and the idiotic barbarity of travellers, who seem to think that the more valuable the monument the better adapted it is for writing their names on. It is worthy of notice that the feeding of the oryx on the north comer, and par- ticularly the figure, in perspective, holding one of the animals oy the horns, are divested of the formafity of an Egyptian drawing ; and the fish on the wall opposite the entrance are admirably executed. It is remarkable that the phagrus, or eel, is there intro- dnced, and apparently the two other sacred fish, the oxyrhinchus and lepi- dotus. On the upper part of the N, waU is a very curious scene, imfortunately &st disappearing. Enum-hotep is depicted standing with his favourite dogs beside him, and towards him is advancing a procession which was at one time supposed to represent the arrival of Joseph's brethren in Egypt; but the date at which the tombs were excavated, several cen- turies before the age of Joseph, and the name and nxmiber written over the people, show the incorrectness of this idea. The first figure is an Egyptian scribe, who presents an account of the arrival of the strangers to his master Knmn-hotep. The next, also an Egyp- tian, ushers them into his presence ; and two advance, bringing presents, consisting of an ibex or wild-goat, and a gazelle, — ^the productions of their country, or caught on the way. Four men, carrying bows and clubs, follow, leading an ass, on which two children are placed in panniers, . accompanied by a boy and four women ; and last of aU, another ass laden, and two men, one holding a bow and club, the other a lyre, which he plays with the plec- trum. All the men have aqiuline noses, and pointed black beards. The wearing a beard was contrary to the custom of the Egyptians, but very general in the East at that period, and noticed as a peculiarity of foreign imciyilised nations throughout their aculptures. The men have sandals, the women a sort of boot leaching to the anldei The inacription above this scene tells us that the deputation brought a present of Mastemut^ or paint for the eyes, a cosmetic much prized, and prepared in Arabia. The number of these strangers is 37, and their name Amoo. The inter- est of this picture lies in the fact that it represents the most ancient known immigration of Asiatic tribes into Egypt. According to M. Mariette, Amoo signifies " shepherd," or ** cow- herd," and was the generic name of the Syro-Aramaic races, who subse- quently peopled the eastern part of the Delta, and perhaps were, with the Israelites, the Shepherds, or Hyksos of Manetho. The chief is styled prince of Abesha. For a full account of the Inscriptions in this and the preceding grotto see Brugsch*s * History of Egypt,* vol. i. pp. 134 and 147. Southern Grottoes. — ^The Paintings in two of the southern grottoes are par- ticularly worthy of mention. The first of them contains the usual hunting scene ; but here the name of each animal is written above it in hierogly- phics ; and below are the birds of the country, distinguished in like manner by their Egyptian name. In one part women are performing feats of agility ; and various modes of playing at ball^ throwing up and catching 3 in suc- cession, and other diversifications of the game, are represented amongst their favourite amusements. In an- other part is a subject representing a barber shaving a customer. Their numerous occupations are here pointed out by the introduction of the most common trades ; among which the most remarkable are glassblowers, goldsmiths, statuaries, painters, work- ers in flax, and potters; and the cir- cumstance of the cattle being tended by decrepit herdsmen serves to show in what low estimation this class of people was held by the Egyptians. On the eastern wall are wrestlers in various attitudes; and to distin- guish more readily the action of eaAk combatant, the at\.\a\»\k»a wq^^^Vosv- self of a daik ow^ «b \\^\. ^i.O^«va\ one being pwv\fe^ ^^ >^^ ^^"^^ 412 RODTE 19. — CAIRO TO THEBES. Sect. VII. black: and Indeed, in the figures throughout these tombs, the direction of the arms when crossing the body is in like manner denoted by a differ- ent colour, or by a lighter outline. On the southern wall some peasants are sentenced to the bastinado, and a woman is subjected to the same mode of correction. In these the figures are smaller than in the northern grottoes, and their style and propor- tions are very inferior. The next tomb but one is a copy of that just mentioned ; but the figures are very badly executed. In addition to the other subjects common to them both, we find men playing chess (or rather draughts), some curious bird- traps, and on the S. wall a square of magazines with circular roofs, which appear to point out the existence of the crude-brick vault in the time of these early Pharaohs. It is in these tombs that we find the greatest va- riety of games, trades, and illustra- tions of the manners and customs of the Egyptians, which have been so useful in the insight they have afforded into the habits of that ancient people, and which have been copied and described in Sir G. Wilkinsons book, * The Ancient Egyptians.* In look- ing at these pictures, we are struck with the singular custom of writing over each subject or object the name of whatever the artist intended to repre- sent, even the animals and most ordinary figures: which may have been the remnant of an old custom when they began drawing, these highly conservative people continuing to the latest times to adopt the early usages of their ancestors. And this calls to mind a remark of iElian, that, " when painting was in its infancy, they drew so rudely, that artists wrote over the pictures, * this is an ox,' * that a horse,* * this a tree/ " The tombs beyond to the S. present defaced paintings not worthy of notice. Among other singular customs with which the grottoes of Beni Hassan have made us acquainted, is that of admitting dwarfs and deformed per- sons into the suite of the grandees; ^nU these, as well as bufibons, wexe \ introduced at a later time into differ ent countries of Europe, in imitation of an usage common from the earliest ages in the East. On the wall of one of the tombs is a Greek alphabet, with the letters transposed in various ways, evidently by a person teaching Greek, who ap- pears to have found these cool recesses a comfortable resort for himself and his pupils. In observing the number of animals, and the various customs, represented in the tombs of Beni Hassan, and in those about the pyramids, every one must be surprised at the omission of the horse ; and it has been supposed that the use of the horse and the cha- riot was introduced into Egypt by the Shepherds, or by Thothmes IH. on his return from Asia. The first notice of it is on the monuments of the XVIIIth Dynasty. The villages of Beni Hassan were destroyed many years ago by Ibra- him Pasha, the inhabitants being in- corrigible thieves ; and even now it is as well to keep a good watch at night, while anchored near this spot In- deed the inhabitants of all the vil- lages from Beni Hassan to the vicinity of Manfaloot are addicted to thieving, and additional precautions are neces- sary throughout the whole of that district. The present Village of Beni Hassan stands 2 m. to the S. of the grottoes, and nearly 1 m. to the S.E. of it is the Speos Artemidos, to which the common name of Stahl Antar has been applied by the modem Egyp- tians. It is situated in a small rocky valley, or ravine, about \ m. from ite mouth. There was an ancient town near this place called in the ancient texts Hir-uer, or Ab, the capital of the 16th nome. To the rt., on entering the ravine, are several pits and tombs cut in the rock. Some of these last have had well-shaped doorways with the usual Egyptian cornice, and round one are still some traces of coloured hiero- glyphics. Three are larger than the rest. In the first of tiiese (going itom t\iQ '^ralley of the Nile) the pavn.\.\si^a \v»."s^ \»^^tx "^^wJaeosid with ROUTE 19. — ^BENI HASSAK— SHBYKH TIMAY. Egy^U Smoke, and few of them can be dis- tinctly traced. Near its S.E. corner are some water-plants, and here and there some Greek inscriptions scratched on the stucco. Beyond this, to the E., is another with a cornice over the door, bearing the names of Alexander, the son of Alexander the Great, Ptolemy Lagus being at that time governor of Egypt in his name. In the centre are the globe and asps ; and on the architrave below the king is kneeling to present the figure of Truth to the lioness-headed goddess of the place, Pasht or Bubastis. Be- hind hvm stands Athor, the Egyptian Venus. On one side of the two centre compartments the king is standing in the presence of Amen and Horus, on the otiier of Thoth and Moui (Gem, Gom, Sem, or Hercules). The next large grotto to the E. is the Speos Artemidos (" the Cave of Diana ") itself. Like the others, it is wholly excavated in the rock. It was begun by Thothmes III., and other sculptures were added by Sethi I., the father of Eameses II. ; but it was never completed. It consists of a portico with two rows of square pillars, four in each, of which the outer one alone remains ; and though rough on one side and un- finished, they each bear the name of those two kings, and of the goddess Pasht, the Egyptian Diana, whose legend is followed by a lioness (not a cat), as throughout the sculptures of this grotto. A door, or passage, leads thence into the naos, which measures 8^ by 9 paces, and at the end wall is a niche about 6 ft. deep, and raised 8 ft. from the floor, intended no doubt for the statue of the goddess, or of the sacred animal dedicated to her. It is also unfinished; but on one of the jambs is a figure of Pasht. In the doorway or passage leading to the na^s are two recesses, cut in the side wall, which, if not of later date, may have been intended as bxuying-places for the sacred animals. There are others in the portico. Animal worship was mohMy of African origin; and the uon, cynocepbalus, and others were not natives of Bgjrpt 413 The only finished sculptures are on the inner wall of the portico. They are of the early time already men- tioned, and therefore of a good period of Egyptian art; but they vary in style, some being in relief, others in intaglio. On one side Thothmes III. is making offerings to Pasht and Thoth ; on the other Sethi is kneel- ing before Amen, attended by Pasht ; and, in a line of hieroglyphics behind him, mention is made of the sculp- tures added by Jiim in honour of " liis mother Pasht, the beautiful lady of the Speos." In the portico, one of those singular changes appears, so common in ancient Egyptian monu- ments. The name Amen has been introduced instead of other hierogly- phics ; and that this was done in the time of king Sethi himself is evi- dent from the fact of its being in intaglio like his name, which has been substituted for that of Thothmes. Clianges have also been made in the legends over some of the twelve deities seated on the 1. of the picture, which have been altered by Sethi in intaglio. Pasht occurs again twice over the door, and once in the doorway of the naos. She has always the head of a lioness, and the title, '* Lady of the Excavation " or " Speos." On the face of the rock, over the facade of the portico, are some lines of hieroglyphics. There are several pits and smaller grottoes on this and on the opposite side of the valley, where lions and cats, the animals particularly sacred to Pasht, were pro- bably buried. In some of them the bones of cats, and even dogs, are said to have been discovered. (jE7.) At Sheyl'h Timay are some catacombs and limestone-quarries, and traces of the crude-brick wall of Gisr el-Agoos are seen on the low hills near the river. The story of it here is, that a queen built it to protect her son from the crocodiles — a fiiir specimen of Arab tradition. There are no sculptures in the ^'Sr cavated tomba ot ^W5\i}£\.'\l\TK»?3^\s^ the cuilona ii\MMXi»N\\.\B ^ks^Jsa^ «^ large roniided\>o\\\!QLet^ ^xsXN. ^^ Vi'eK^'^^ 414 ROUTE 19. — CAIRO TO TflEBES. Sect.VIL arc worth the trouble of a walk to the hills if there is time to spare. (E.) The river here has, except at high Nile, almost deserted its ancient course beneath the mountains, and takes a considerable bend to the W. Near the S. end of the old channel is the site of Antinoe, or AntinoSpolis, the few ruins of which still existing Ue among the magnificent pahn- groves of the modem village of Sheykh Ahddeh, It was built by Hadrian, and called after his favourite, Antinoiis ; who, having accompanied him to Egypt, drowned himself in the Nile, with the idea of securing the happiness of the Emperor (which an oracle had declared could only be obtained by tlie sacrifice of what was most dear to him); in commemoration of which Hadrian founded this city near the spot, and instituted games and sacri- fices in his honour. The modem name of Antinoe was given it, according to Wansleb, from a Moslem who was converted to Chris- tianity, and afterwards, under the name of Ammonius el abed (** the Devout "), sufiered martyrdom there. It is also called Ansina or Insina, and Medeenet Ontholae, in Coptic Antnoou ; and the old town of Arsinoe itself succeeded to one of earlier time, which some sup- pose to have been the ancient Besa, famed for its oracle. Ammianus Mar- cellinus places Besa in the vicinity of Abydus, though the combined name of Besantinoopolis, given to the former, seems conclusive evidence of its real position; and some stippose that iei village called Abydus stood here. Aboolfeda describes Antinoe under the name of Ansina, as having ** ex- tensive remains of ancient monuments, and much arable land : ** and he adds, " that the Nubian geographer, Edrcesee,. speaks of it as an ancient city remark- able for the fertility of its land, and said by common report to be the city of the magicians, who were sent for thence by Pharaoh.*' Enough could be seen of its remains at the beginning of the present cen- tury to show that it was a large and important city, iSUed with public build- JDga worthy of the magnificenco and taste of its founder. The nsefolnefls of the limestone, of which they were constructed, for modem building pu> poses has been the cause of these com- paratively modern ruins having dis- appeared, while others of far more aa- cient date, whose material was granite or other hard stone, are still in ex* istence. Antinoe was the capital of a nome, called after it the Antino'ite, to which Ptolemy says the two Oases were at* tached. This was one of the new pro- vinces or departments of Egypt, added at a late period, when Egypt was under the rule of the Bomans, and Heptano* mis was then condemned to signify, or at least to contain, 8 nomes. (TF.) At Boda, 11 m. (Rly. Stat), op- posite the remains of Antinoe, is one of the largest sugar-factories on the Nile, well worthy a visit. Close to them is a palace of the Khedive. The river again makes a great bend, and reaches on the same bank Bya- deeyeh, a village inhabited by Copts. (E.) A short distance to tiie sooth- ward of Antinoe are some crude-brick ruins called Medeeneh, " the City;* probably from the village having suc- ceeded to, or being peopled firom, An- tinoe. The modem peasants believe them to be ancient. They appear to be wholly of Christian time ; and thoogh now deserted, the houses in many parts are nearly entire. Beyond these again is a modem Christian village called Ed'Bayr, or Dayr Aboo Hotuutt **the Convent of Father John;" and near the. summit of the hill behind it, and to the N. of the layine, is a very ancient church or chapel, in one i the extensive quarries with which it is honeycombed. On the walls are painted several subjects from the Nev Testament, as Herod (hp«thc) Q^de^ ing the slauo^hter of the Innocents, the Flight into Egypt. Elizabeth C^Elissa'*) and Zadbiarias, and on the side wall numerous sednts, with their names written over them. In an adjoining chapel in the same qpairj are the marriage in Cana (in which the Saviour uses a wand while turn- ing the water into wine) ; the raising oi LAauun^A ^T^aXfti^ Vn \3qa same way Egy:pL ROUTE 19. — ^THE CX)LOSStJS OK A SLEDGE. 416 as on ft tomb of one of the exarchs at Bavenna); the meeting of Mary and Elizabeth; and other subjects. They are of a better hand than those of the other chapel, though of the same date. At the entrance is an in- scription in Coptic, which (like others lower down the hiU) appears to have the date of one of the Indictions. Some of the saints here represented arc (like •• St. Damianus '*) of the 6th century, but the chapels were probably made long before. From not having been altered by later occupants, they have an interest which tiie underground church at Aboo Honnes itself has ceased to have, though it has the lepntation of dating from the time of the Empress Helena, the mother of Constantine. On the same hill are the remains of a tablet, apparently of the XVIIIth Dy- nasty, and report speaks of another with the name of Amunoph III. Little more than a mile fieurther is another convent, or Christian village, called Ed'Dayr en-Nakld, **of the Palm- tree," close to which is the burial- ground, with a church. (JE7.) Tomb of the Coloasus on a Sledge. — ^Tbis grotto is at the left hand of the ravine, behind the convent and village of Dayr en-Nakhl, near the top of the hill, and a little way to the right of a sort of road, which is seen from below running upon the upper part of the hillHBide. The following are the bear- ings, by compass, of the principal objects from its entrance : — Antinoe 832}<*; Reramoon 276° (or 6° N. of W.) ; Dayr en-Nakhl 288°, f of a mile ; and El Bersheh 236°, 2 miles. In the grotto is one of the most interesting subjects found in any of the Egyptian tombs. It represents a Colossus on a sledge, which a number of men are dra^^g with ropes ; and is one of the few paintings liiat throw any light on the method employed by the E^ptians for moving weights. Tnongh it is the statue of the person of the tomb, it does not follow that it was hewn in this hill ; and it merely oommemorates an ev^tthat happened daring his hfetime, like tbe fowling and other aabjeeis connected with his amusements. But the con- sequence of this individual, Thoth- hotep, is fully shown, not only by the fact of his having the honour of a colossal statue, but by the employ- ment of so many foreign captives in moving it ; and an important proof is obtained by the last-mentioned cir- cumstance of the conquests of the Egyptians over an Asiatic people at the early period of Amenemhat II. and Osirtasen 11., in whose reigns he lived. He was a person of distinction in the military caste : he is styled in the hieroglyphics " the king's friend :" and one of his children was named Osirtasen, after the king. One hun- dred and seventy-two men, in 4 rows of 43 each, pull the ropes attached to a ring in front of the sledge ; and a liquid, perhaps grease, or water, is poured from a vase by a person stand- ing on tbe pedestal of the statue, in order to facilitate its progress as it slides on the ground, wmch was proba- bly covered with a bed of planks, though they are not indicated in the picture. Some of the persons engaged in this laborious duty appear to be Egyptians ; others are foreign slaves, who are clad in the costume of their country ; and behind the statue are 4 rows of men, in all 12 in number, representing either the architects and masons, or those who had an employment about the place where the statue was to be conveyed. Below are others, carrying vases, apparently of water, and some machinery connected with the trans- port of the statue, followed by task- masters with tiieir wands of office. On the knee of the figure stands a man who claps his hands to the measured cadence of a song, to mark the time and ensure their simultaneous draught ; for it is evident that, in order that the whole power might be applied at the same instant, a sign of this kind was necessary ; and the custom of singing at their work was common to every occupation in Egypt, as it now is in that country, in India, and many other places. The height oi "tti^ ^\a.\?3fik «^^^«s% \ft have been a\>oxx\. *l^i\..,mO^>in^^'S^ *^^ 1 pedestal ; a\id \\. \b ^\».\fe^^V^ Vis^e^^saa 416 ROUTE 19. — CAIRO TO THESES* Sect. vn. of hieroglyphics behind the picture, to be " 13 cubits/' or 22-370 ft. It was bound to the sledge by double ropes, tightened by means of long pegs in- serted between them and twisted round until they were completely braced; and, to prevent injury from the friction of the ropes, a compress of leather, lead, or other substance was intro- duced between them and the stone. Before the figure a priestly scribe is presenting incense in honour of the person it represents; and at the top of the picture are seven companies of men marching in an opposite direc- tion. They are probably the reliefs for dragging the statue. Beyond are men slaying an ox and bringing the joints of meat before the door of the building to which the statue was to be conveyed ; and below this the per- son of the tomb is seated under a canopy. Boats, and other subjects, are figured under the compartment of the colossus ; and on the opposite wall are an agricultural scene, potters, a garden with a vineyard, and women working in thread. The last subject is remarkable for a new kind of loom, and the mode of reeling off thread from balls turning in a cAse. On the end wall, to the left of the niche, are some fish well drawn, with the colours in a good state of preservation. Among other subjects in this tomb are the ceremony of pouring a liquid from a vase (probably ointment) over the deceased; sprinkling the ground before him as he walks : the bearing of offerings ; fishing and fowling scenes ; and on the outside a chase, and other spirited sculptures. Unfortunately a great portion of the roof and walls has fallen in, and the paintings have been much injured, besides being defaced in many places by the mistaken piety of the Copts, who have drawn nume- rous dark-red crosses on the bodies of the figures, and over various parts of these interesting subjects. llemains of sculpture may be found in a neighbouring tomb, and in a quarry beyond (on the same side of the ravine or vauey) is a tablet in the rocky bearing the date of the 33rd year of Thofhmes lU. There are also some tombs along the face of the hill on the other side of the ravine, though they are of little consequence. But they are very old ; and in one is the name of Popi. In the ravine, about ^ a mile from the mouth, on the right-hand side, are some large limestone quarries, with a few royal ovals and inscrip- tions in enchorial written with red ochre, like those in the quarries of Masarah. (TF.) Nearly opposite Ed-Dayr en- Nakhl is Raramoon, some distance inland from which is Oshmoonayny which occupies the site of HermopolU Magna. The mo- dem name is derived from the Coptic Shmoun JB, or the ** tioo eights,** and the prefix O or E is added for euphony, from the hostility of Arabic against all words beginning with an S or Sh, followed by a consonant. The Arabs pretend that it was called after Oah- moon, the son of Misr, or Misraim. It is called Uon in hieroglyphic texts. Hermopolis was a city of great an- tiquity, and it was the capittd of one of the early nomes of Egypt. It de- rived its Greek appellation from the worship of Thoth, the god who pre- sided there, and who was supposed te answer to Hermes, or Mercury. He was the patron of letters, the scribe of Heaven, and the same as the Moon; his office was not less important in imparting intellectual gifts from the Deity to man, than in superintending the final judgment of the soul, and in recording the virtuous actions of the dead when admitted to the regions of eternal happmess. The modem town stands on the southern extremity of the mounds, which are of great extent; and objects of antiquity are occasionally found by the peasants while removing the nitre. The tombs of the ancient city lifi at the base of the Libyan hills to the westward, where numerous ibis- mummies have been buried, many of which are found deposited in small cases, and perfectly preserved. The cynocephalus ape is also met with* embalmed and buried in the same oon- i eieciQ\edL «.^\» 1\> ^ here that Ibeum, EgypL ROUTE 19.— SERMOPOLIS— ISBAYDA. 417 or the Nhip (of the Copts), probably stood ; for it is evident that the posi- tion given it in the Itinerary of Anto- ninus is incorrect; and Ibeum, the burying-place of the sacred birds of Hermopolis, could not have been 24 m. distant to the N. of that city. Not far from these tombs is a curious sculptured stela, on the nummulite rock of Gebel Toona, representing the king Amunoph IV. or Khoo-en Aten, with his queen, worshippiDg the Sun, which darts forth rays terminating in human hands; a subject similar to those in the grottoes of Tel el-Amama. They are accompanied by two of their daughters, holding sidra. Below the figures are between 20 and 30 lines of hieroglyphics much defaced ; and near it are two headless statues sup- porting a sort of tablet, with three daughters of the king on the side in intaglio. Beyond are two other statues, and at the side of this, as of the other groap, are two small mutilated figures. Several years ago a peasant disco- vered a large sum of money buried in the ground near this spot, which had been concealed there by one of the Memlooks, in their retreat, after being defeated by Mohammed Ali, the year before the massacre in the citadel. This discovery became the talk of the whole neighbourhood, and confirmed the popular belief in the existence of the Kens, or *' treasures," supposed to be buried near ancient ruins. (TT.) Yiom. Byadeeyeh to this part of the mountain is a ride of about 3} hrs. on donkeys, at a quick walk ; and Oshmooniyn is a little more than balf-way ftom Byadeeyeh to the Bahr Tooaef, which in March has very little water. There is a town not far off, called Toonoy or Toona el-Gebd Q* of the Mountain"): in Coptic, ThdnL Another, called Dardot-Oshmdon, or, Daroot en-NakM (•* of the Palms "), has tiie usual mounds of old towns, but no remains in stone. It stands on the E. bank of the Bahr Yoosef, and from its name and position, probably occupies the site of the Hermopolitana Phylace (fvXtuai), as Daroot esh-Shereef does ^at df the Theban castle. It is the Terift Si^moun of the Copia, [£^^—Pt. IL] Abooseer, the Pousiri of the Coptic MSS., was on the W. of the Bahr Yoosef, near the Libyan hills. (TT.) MeUawee, 6 m., claims the rank of a town (bender), and has a market, held every Sunday. Its mounds probably mark the site of an ancient town. (E.) A little higher up the river, at the projecting corner of the moun- tains, IS a place called Ishdyda, or Sehdyda, behind and to the northward of which are several grottoes and modern quarries. Some have the usual agricultural and other scenes, and the various subjects common to tombs. In two of them is the name of Pepi in a square ; and another has two ovals together, one of Shoofoo (Suphis, or Cheops), the other of Ases- kef. In others are specimens of the false doors and architectural orna- ments found at the tombs near the pyramids, and some figures in relief. Osiris is here frequently styled ** Lord of the land of Tat," or " Tot," which is expressed by the emblem of stability. Before several of the grottoes are crude-brick walls, built when in- habited by the Christians, who con- verted one of them into a church, cutting a circular niche into the rock opposite the entrance. At Isbayda there is another portion of the Gisr el-Agods, and a ruined town, which commanded the mountain-pass up the ravine behind Gebel esh-Sheykh Said, This road passed by a stone quarry at the top of the hills, and then de- scended into a valley coming from the eastward, and opening upon the level plain. Here it joined an old road of considerable breadth, which ran in a southerly direction behind the town, whose extensive mounds lie to the S. of the modem village of Tel eUAmama, On the summit of the same hills is a large limestone-quarry, in which is a bed of oriental alabaster, from 3 to 6 ft thick, which, like the quarry, was long worked by the ancients. A road 10 paces broad, cut in the rock, leads into the quarry, and on the rl^kt «A^ are small n\c\\ft^, ou^sfe w^-^-weoSsJi holding tBi\Ae\ia oy m^Yv^XKwvv^. "^^ best -wov \o W\\a cvjas\x\^ Sa ^xsj» ^"^^^^ • ^1 ^ 418 ROUTE 19. — CAmo TO THEbES. Sect. VH. galley, or i*avine, just to the N. of Is- payda. It is on the hill at the end of it, ahout IJ m. from its mouth. (JE^.) Hadji Kandeel, 7 m. This is the best place to disembark at for pay- ing a visit to the Grottoes of Tel el-Axnama, about 4J m. distant from the river. It is not always easy to obtain donkeys, and notice should be sent by one of the saQors, the night before, to the neigh- bouring villages. These grottoes belong to a very obscure period of the XVIIIth Dy- nasty, when, as M. Mariette conjec- tures, the Egyptian religion, under the influence of a piously mad king, went through a curious stage of schism. They are the burial-places of functionaries of the court of Amunoph rV. and his immediate successors. This Amunoph IV., according to M. Mariette, substituted for Ammon, or Amen, the god of Thebes, a Semitic deity called Aten (the radiating disk), and changed his own name to Khoo- en-Aten, as found here in these grot- toes. He also built the town, whose extensive ruins are still seen on the plain, and made it the capital of his Kingdom. These changes may per- haps be attributed to the influence of his mother, who was not an Egyptian, and whose name appears constantly on the waUs of these grottoes. It is noticeable, too, that the features of the people represented in these sculptures are not Egyptian. The roof of the largest tomb is sup- ported by 24 columns. It is nearly filled up with sand, and the visitor finds himself standing at the level of the capitals, which are of great simpli- city and beauty, and support cross- beams cut in the rock. The walls ore everywhere carved with the radiating disk, but in all the tombs this is the most prominent subject. In one place the long and queen, frequently at- tended by their children, are praying to Aten, represented under the form of the Sun with rays terminating in human hands, m another the monarch is home on a rich throne towards a temple; in another, he la \ mounted in his car, the queen following in " the second chariot that he had." In some are military processions, the troops marching with the banners belonging to their respective corps, and divided into light and heavy armed infantry, as was customary with the Egyptian army. Each soldier bows down before the monarch, whose tyranny seems to be hinted at by their more than usual submisslveness. The chariot corps and others also attend ; and the officers of infantry are distinguished by their post at the head of their men, and by the wand they carry in their hand. In others are the plans of houses, gardens, courts ' of temples, cattle, and various subjects, among which may be mentioned some large boats, fastened to the bank of the Nile by ropes and pegs, as at the present day. Some of the sculptures have bieen left unfinished. The royal names, as at Grebel Toonah, have been invariably defaced. There are usually five ovals — 2 containing the prenomen and nomen of the Mng ; another the name of the queen-mother; and two others, which are of larger size, the titles of the god. Dr. Birch observes thsA. the first appearance of the worship of the Aten, or solar disk, on the monuments, is in the second year of Amunoph m., whose queen, Taii, seems to have in- troduced it from Asia. Amunoph IY.» his son, who assumed the name of Khoo-en-Aten ''endeavoured to re- move the capital of the country to Tel el-Amama, and destroy all indications of the worship of Amen-ra throughout the country, by erasing the name, which was subsequently restored on the overthrow of the worship of the disk. . . . After the fall of the family of Ehu-en-aten, the disk worship was abandoned." Several Greek inscriptions show that the catacombs of Tel el-Amama were sufficiently admired by ancient travellers to be considered worthy of a visit, like those at Thebes; and one of the writers expresses his surprise at t\iQ *' «kill of the sacred masons," Egypt. ROUTE 19. — GROTTOES OP TEL EL-AMARNA. 419 To the S. of the central tombs is a natural grotto or fissure in the rock, and several workings in a softer vein, apparently in search of a yellow stone which crosses it here and there ; but it is difficult to say for what use it was required. Several small houses, or huts of rough stone are built here, as well as before the catacombs them- selves, probably the abodes of work- men. In one of the tombs is a large niche cut by the Christians, and in another the figures of saints painted on the walls ; Slowing that these, like other secluded spots, were once occu- pied by anchorites and other devout cynics, or served as places of refuge from the persecutions exercised at different times against the monks of Egypt. The extensive ruins of the old city are seen in the plain near the river. The temples were of sandstone, each surrounded by a crude-brick enclosure, like many of those at Thebes and other places ; but fragments of masonry are all that now remain, the stone edi- fices having been purposely destroyed, and 80 completely as to leave no ves- tige of their original plans. Several of the crude-brick houses are better preserved, and from their substructions the form and distribution of many of the rooms may be easily traced. In- deed, they are calculated to give a more correct idea of the ground-plans of Egyptian houses than any in the valley of the Nile ; and the extent of the city is unequalled by any whose ruins remain, except Thebes, being about 2 m. in length, though' of a comparatively inconsiderable breadth. (JS,) Some distance to the south- ward, and nearly in a line with the village of How^rte, is a ravine in the hills, where a large stela bearing a long hieroglyphic inscription was found ; and to the S. of this, near the road leading over the mountains in rear of Gebel Aboofayda, are other catacombs, containing similar sculp- tures, and some ancient roads commu- nioating with the town. (IT^ Nearly opposite El-Howarte, inland is Tanodf, whose lofty mounds mark the site of Tanis-Superior, in Coptic, Thoni, It has no ruins. A short distance to the W. of it runs the Bahr Yoosef, or Menhir which conveys the water of the Nile to the interior of the western plain, passing by Behnesa, and thence by a lateral branch into the Fayoom. (F.) About 2 m. to the S. of Tanoof is Daroot esh-Shereef, in Coptic Terdt^ which probably occupies the site of the Thebaica Phylace (v^x^x'n)» or Theban castle ; a fortified place at the frontier of the Thebaid, where duties were levied on goods exported from that part of the coimtry to Lower Egypt. Strabo tells us the canal to Tanis passed by that castle; and we may trace in the name Daroot the word otMritj a " garrison " or *' guard." At Daroot are a few mounds and some fragments of stone, but no ruins. A few nules higher up the Nile is the mouth of the Bahr Yoosef. {E.) On the eastern bank are the . first £>6m-tree8y called also Theban palms, from being confined to the Thebaid. They are not found in Lower Egypt, except in gardens, as at Mlnieh and a few other places. Their dry fibrous fruit, when ripe, exactly resembles our ginger-bread in fiavour, and is eaten by the peasants. It contains an extremely hard nut, which has been used by the carpenters of ancient and modem Egypt for tlie socket of their drills; but which, before the fruit ripens, is a horn-like substance, and is eaten by the people of Ethiopia. The growth of the tree has this peculiarity, that the lower part of the stem is single, and in- variably divides at a certsdn height into two branches, each of these again being bifurcated, always in two sets. The head is covered with large fan- shaped leaves, at the base of which the fruit grows. {E.) In the rocks above are some quarries and small grottoes, and just beyond is Ed-Dayr el-Kossayr, inha- bited by Christians. This, perhaps, marks the site of Pesclaj or Pesla, of tho^ Itinerary, which. \i«ja *iA'^»«iQSfiCL\sv.\R» the 8. oi Antmofe. 420 nOUTU 19. — CAIRO TO tHEBfiS* Sect. vn. village of JepJisehan. The river now makes a considerable bend, and ap- proaches a fine precipitous range of cliffs, which rise up sheer from the ■water's edge. (E.) Gebel Aboofayda, 17 m., is the name of these bluffs which bound the east bank of the river for some 10 or 12 miles. Sudden gusts of wind from the mountain often render great precaution necessary in sailing be- neath them, and many accidents have happened in this part of the river (see p. 393). The recesses in the rocks are the resort of numerous cormorants and wild ducks ; but, being generally very timid, they are not easily approached, and a single shot disturbs them for a great distance. The small mud-banks, and the caverns just at the water's edge, are a favourite resort of the few crocodiles which may still be met with so far north. Few travellers are for- tunate enough to see them here ; but in 1871, a very large one, more than 14 ft. lon^, was killed, after several hours* patient watching in a cleft of the cliff a few feet above the water, by the Earl of Ducie, and its body re- covered and skinned. (E.) About a mile above El-Kossayr is a small ancient town in the moun- tain-pass; half-way between which and El-Hareib is Ebrds, a retired recess in the mountain, with a piece of cultivated land, having palms and dOm-trees. (E.) A short distance beyond are some grottoes, and about 2 m. farther the ancient town called EUHareib ("the Ruins*'), with grottoes and tombs containing dog and cat mum- mies. The town stood at the mouth of a ravine, wliich after heavy rain pours a stream of wjiter through its centre. Many of the walls are still standing, and some of the arches with- in the houses are well preserved. It is, however, probable that they are not of very ancient date, and many may be of a late Eoman or Christian time. But the bricks are mostly an- cient, and the Christians may have succeeded to the old town, vestiges of wliicjb still remain amidst the latei builcUngs. On the S. side of the ravme is a large crude-brick enclosure, per- haps a fort; and near the river are remains of masonry, apparently part of an old quay. In some of the 'mdls the bricks, instead of being in hori- zontal courses, are in curved lines, like the enclosure of a temple at Thebes, called Dayr el-Medeeneh. Many of them are of considerable height, and in some places the arched windows remain, even of the upper stories. In several of the grottoes up the ravine to the N.E. are found human bones, and the mummied bodies of dogs, jackals, cats, and apparently of the wild cat, or felu chaus. One of them has the Egyptian cornice, and in another are some enchorial in- scriptions. The ancient name of El- Hareib is uncertain. The Itinerary mentions no place, between Pesla and Hieracon. (TF.) About IJ m. inland is Kos- sayah, the ancient Cusas, ChussSj or Chusfis; in Coptic, Kds-hoo. Accord- ing to the Greeks, Venus Urania was the deity of the place; and ^lian reports that a sacred cow was there worshipped, which is perfectiy consis- tent with the character of the Egyp- tian Venus, of whom that animal was an emblem. His words are, "it is a small but elegant town in the Hermo- polite nome, where they worship Venus, called Urania (the heavenly), and also a cow." The difference between the low and higli Nile in this part of Egypt is 21 ft. 3 in., judging from the highest mark made by the water on the cli& of Gebel Aboofayda, which rise ab- ruptly from the river. {E.) About 3 m. above El-Hareib, and beyond where the river turns away from beneath the clifib, is an old convent called Dayr d-Bukkara "of the Pulley." The name is common to many of these monastic retreats, being derived from the custom of barricading the doors and raising everything they required by a " puUev" as at Dayr Antonios and I^ayr Bdlos in the eastern desert. Near the con- vent are the ruins of another old to^Tm, and some sepulclunl grottoes. A. potUoTi oi \5aft ^\sst ^V A^oos ap- Egypt. ROUTE 19. — MAUFALOOT — WADY EOOA. 421 pears near this old town, which may possibly lay claim to the site of Hier- acon, though the distances in the Itinerary do not quite agree with its position. The Nile formerly ran beneath the cliffs for some distance farther S., but it has now left them and bends away considerably to the W. (TT.) Between Daroot esh Shereef and Manfaloot, on the W. bank, is the site of au old town, called in Coptic ManlaUy whose Arabic name, accord- ing to the MSS., is Mowda-el Ashea ; and between this last and Mankabdt mention is made of Mahtouty the suc- cessor of a town of the same name, in Coptic J^aHthoot, This last may sig- nify the ** place of Thoih.'* (TT.) Manfaloot, Hi m. (Rly. Stat.), in Coptic ManbaloU is a bender or market* town, and the residence of a local governor. It is of considerable size, with the usual bazaar, and a market-day every Sunday, at which meat and other things can be more easily obtained than at other times. It has a governor's palace, and outside the walls are several gardens. There is reason to believe that an old Egyptian town stood here in former times, and Leo Africanus speaks of its sculptured remains, and the ruins of a bmlding, apparently a temple, near the river. It is singular that no notice is taken of it by Greek and Latin writers, and we might suppose that the Arab geo- grapher was incorrect in his statement, did not its mounds, and the mention of its name in the list of places cited in the Coptic MSS., prove it to have been one of the cities of ancient Egypt. Its modem name is evidently taken from the Coptic, which M. Champoliion supposes to sig^fy the ^* place of wild asses;" but the modem Egyptians, with their usual disposition to connect everythhig with persons mentioned in the Kor^n, have decided it to be the ** place of exile of Lot." Aboolfeda describes Manfaloot "on the bank of the Nile," but in Pococke's time it stood a ndle from the river, which then ran nearer the hills of Gebel Aboo- (ajdar Shfoe ib»t period the Nile has gradually encroached on the western shore, and every year threatens to wash the town away. It had also then a "bishop and about 200 Christians, whose church was at Narach, some distance off, in a spot where the com- mon people pretended that the Holy Family lived until the death of Herod." (^.) On the summit of the rocks of Gebel Aboofayda, near their southern end, are the caverns of Maahdeh, where are the Crocodile Mummy Pits, The entrance to them is through a natural fissure in the rock at the top. Besides the thousands of crocodile mummies which fill the interior, there are several human mummies, some gilded ii-om head to foot, and others less richly decorated. These caverns have never been thoroughly explored, and much, no doubt, yet remains to be found in them. Here IVir. Harris met with his interesting fragments of Homer on papyrus. Candles, matches, rope, and water should be taken, if it is intended to penetrate into the ca- verns. There is no danger attending the attempt ; but it is fatiguing, and the confined space, and close, stifling atmosphere may produce unpleasant effects. The best place to go from, coming down the river, is a village called Shdlughed. (TT.) Beni Adee or AU, at the edge of the Libyan desert, was the head- quarters of the Nizdm, or disciplined firoops of Mohammed Ali, previous to their march for the Morea. It is a point of departure for the Oasis of Dakhleh. (JS.) In Wddy Booa, at the southern comer of Gebel Aboofayda, on the E. bank, are some old grottoes. Here the road from Tel el-Amilma over Gebel Aboofayda rejoins the valley of the Nile, and those travelling by land avoid a great detour by following this moun- tain-pass. The grottoes in the comer of the hill behind Beni-Mohammed-el- Kofodr have some interesting paintings of agricultural and other scenes of the early time of Pepi and Neferkara of the Vlth Dynasty. Amon^ tha \S!»a2a>j Bubjecta, in oug o^ XlsvsasL «t^ ^'croia cunouB V>oatB; Vxi ^•a oVJCket^ «iJ«ft «^ trades ajid ^wciow^ wjJci\'5icNa\ ^>sA Ns^a, 422 ROUTE 19. — CAIRO TO THEBES. Sect. vn. occupants of these tombs appear all to have lived about the time of Nefer- kara (Nephercheres), and to have been governors of the nome. At the Convent of Dayr et-Gihrdvjee, or Maria Boktee, in the plain below, Mr. Harris found a Greek inscription of the time of Diocletian and Maximian, and men- tioning the dedication of the camp of the 1st Praetorian cohort of Lusita- nians to Jupiter, Hercules, and Vic- tory. On the desert plain between the convent and the hills (which are here called Gebel Mardg) is an ancient square crude-brick fortress, which ap- pears from the coins found there to have been used by the Eomans, though probably of earlier time; and at the convent are some old mounds of a town called Medeenet 8in»Cnt. The paintings in the caves of Gebel Ma- r£g are better preserved than those about i a mile to the N. of it. Some distance to the S. is Tahhaneh. Near Beni Mohammed el-Kofoor may be the site of Passalon. About 6 m. beyond, near the edge of the cultivated land, behind Bendob el-Hamam^ are vestiges of the Gisr-el- Agoos. In the tract of land on the border of the desert, near the road going towards El-Wasta, is a crude- brick ruin and the mounds of other small towns, but without any stone remains. Isium stood somewhere in this direction, at one of the ruined towns just mentioned. (TT.) The Nile makes several letrge bends between Manfaloot and Asyoot which often cause considerable delay. At the end of one of them, and at a short distance from the bank, is Man- kabdt, the successor of an old town called in Coptic Manhapdt, ** the place (manufactory ?) of pots, ' probably from its manufactory of earthenware; though, from the great quantity made in every part of Egypt, it seems un- reasonable to apply this name to any pa'rticular town. Like Keneh and Ballaseh at the present day, it may have been noted for a particoLar kind. (fF.) Aayootf 26 m. (Ely. Stat. 12 lira, from Cairo). The capital of the province of the fiiam^ zmme ©.net iw- :.\ dence of the governor of Upper Egyyt, 247^ m. from Cairo by water, and 229 m. by raU. It stands at some distance from the river, and a small village on the bank, called El-Hamray claims the honour of being its port. The railway station is about midway between, and close to it is a Po«t and Telegraph Office. A large canal conducts the water from the river during the inundation, and a magnificent embankment stud- ded with trees leads from the landing- place to the town, the entrance into which, through an old gateway and a large courtyard, which forms part of the governor's palace, is very pictn- resque. Asyoot is of considerable extent, with several bazaars, baths, and some handsome mosques, one of which is remarkable for its lofty mina- ret. It is certainly the largest and best built town of Upper Egypt ; and its position, with several gardens in the vicinity, is greatly in its fovour. It may contain about 25,000 inhabit- ants, of whom about 1000 are Chris- tians. In the town are a few good houses belonging to the ebni-bded, or townspeople, but the generality are mere hovels. The streets are narrow and unpaved, as is the case in all the towns of Egypt. Some of the Baaaxtrs are little in- ferior to those of the metropolis, and are well supplied; and the town is divided into quarters, each closed by a gate, as at Cairo. On Sunday a market is held, which is frequented by the people of the neighbomring villages; and in the bazaars a great supply of stu£& and various commodities are always kept for sale, brought from Cairo and other parts of Egypt, as well as from Arabia and the upper country. The best pipe-bowls are manufactured here, which are highly prized, and sent in great numbers to Cairo : some are also made at Keneh and Assooan, but far inferior to those of Asyoot. The public Baths, in the Bazaar, are worth a visit. The pillars which support the central dome are of granite, and are probably taken, from some anoietiX. \)\>a\<3im<^. The 'fountain in Egyj^U ROUTE 19. — ^ASYOOT. 423 white marble. The whole edifice dates from an early period in the Arab con- qaest of Egypt. Formerly the town was much fre- quented by caravans from the interior of Africa, especially £rom Darfoor, but only a few arrive now in the course of the year. The principal native in- dustries are the manufacture of articles in clay, indigo dying, opium and cotton picking, &c. There is an American consular agent ; and the American mission schools have a branch esta- blishment which has met with some success ; a medical man. Dr. Johnston, practises in connection with them. Asyoot has succeeded to the ancient LycopoliSj ** the City of the Wolves," so-called &om the worship of that ftnlmal, or of the deity to whom it was sacred, the jackal-headed Anubis, here called Tapheru, **the watcher of the streets." A wolf is still occa- sionally seen in the neighbouring mountain. The Optic name of the oity, Sidoub, is the same it bore in an- cient times, as is shown by the hiero- glyphics in the catacombs, where it is written Ssout, the initial 8 being doubled, as in Ssa, the Egyptian name of Sais. Aboolfeda says it shoidd be called in Arabic Osyoot; but this is from the repugnance of that language (in common with Spanish, French, and many others) to an S followed by another consonant, unless preceded by a vowel. In the smaller caves and excavated recesses of the rock in various parts of this mountain the remains of wolf-mummies are fre- quently met with, which is perfectly consistent with the fact of the wolf having been the sacred animal of the place, and with the name given to the town by the Greeks. The coins of the Lycopolite nome have also the wolf on meir reverse, with the word -I^co." Little now remains of the old town except extensive mounds and a few stone substructions, which are found in digging for the foundations of housefly or in cutting trenches on its die. ToaibB and OroUoes, — The Libyan cimin advaacee oomdonbl^ towfunls the E. in this part; and in the pro- jecting comer of the mountain above Aysoot are several Grottoes cut in the limestone rock, the burial-places of the inhabitants of Lycopolis. Though not containing a great profusion of sculp- ture, they are of considerable interest &om their antiquity, and some have the names of very old kings. The principal tomb is called by the com- mon appellation of Stabl Antar, Antar was an Arab chief, whose legend is popular and whose name figures in many other places. It is of great size, and has an entrance-chamber or porch, open to the air, cut like the rest in the lunestone-rock. On the right side of the entrance is a long hieroglyphic inscription, which tells us the name of Hapzefa, a priest and grand function- ary under the Xlllth D^masty. It is important, as containmg notices of the intercalary days of the ancient year. Two colossal figures of the deceased are sculptured on the door- posts. The ceiling of this catacomb is vaulted, and ornamented with very elegant devices, which might be taken for Greek patterns if one did not know that the ceiling was older than Greek art. In an inner room are sculptures representing men bringing an ibex and various offerings ; and at the end a large figure of a man, and others of women rather smaller, smell- ing the lotus-fiower, as was usual at the festive meetings of the Egyptians. It has several chambers, which once served as dwelling-places for the pea- sants, who have not improved their appearance by blackening them with smoke. The tombs are arranged in succes- sive tiers at different elevations. They may be visited according to their po- sition, and a road about 4 paces broad leads up the hill. They are very nu- merous, but many are without sculp- ture, and some containing burnt bones appear to have been occupied by the Bomans at a late period. Near the middle of the ascent is some crude- brick building ; and a square pit lined with burnt bxvck^NCc^ -vsMossaaiL^e^^sie^ in B.6inan to^ea, VvJiJck. ^ \sMvsJv. «t ^^^^l 1 8^boY^ on \3fta TociV> xq».Osx e^^^stfjRft 424 ROUTE 19. — CAIRO TO THEBES. Sect. YII. Some of the small pits are very nar- row, scarcely broad enough for a man, and they slope gradually, as if to allow the coffins to slide down into them. Sometimes a tomb consists of a large chamber with small niches or repositories for the dead, and in the floor are the usual mummy-pits. In a tomb about half-way up the hill is the name of Meri-ka-ra, of the Xlllth Dynasty, who is only known by this record, and some soldiers carry- ing shields of enormous size, differing both in this respect and a little in their shape from the common shield, but remarkable as being similar to those mentioned by Xenophon in speaking of the Egyptian troops in the army of CroBsus. He says they amounted to 130,000 men, "carrying bucklers, which covered them from head to foot, very long spears, and swords called KOTTiBts** {shopsh), and each phalanx was ** formed of 10,000 men, 100 eaxjh way." This tomb contains biographical particulars of another Te&A b, the son of Kheti, " governor of the country of the south,*' and probably a relative of the above-named priest. He received, they tell us, orders from the king to enlarge the sanctuary of Anubis or Tapheru, " lord of Ssout." The tombs on this mountain, like most others in Egypt, were once the abode of the Christians, who retired thither, either from persecution, or for the sake of that solitude which suited their austere habits; and it was per- haps from one of them that John of Lycopolis gave his oracular answer to the embassy of Theodosius. The story is thus related by Gibson : ** Before he performed any decisive resolution, the pious emperor was anxious to dis- cover the will of Heaven ; and as the progress of Christianity had silenced the oracles of Delphi and Dodona, he consulted an Egyptian monk who pos- sessed, in the opinion of the age, the gift of miracles and the knowledge of futurity. Eutropius, one of the fa- vourite eunuchs of the palace of Con- stantinople, embarked for Alexandria, from whence he sailed up the Nile as far aa the city of Lycopolis, or of TFoJrej^ in the remote proy}nco of T^e- bais. In the neighbourhood of the city, and on the summit (side ?) of a lofty mountain, the holy John had con- structed with his own hand a humble cell, in which he had dwelt above 50 years, without opening his door, without seeing the face of a womaD. and without tasting any food that had been prepared by fire or any human art. Five days of the week he spent in prayer and meditation, but on Saturdays and Sundays he regularly opened a small window, and gave au- dience to the crowd of suppliants who successively flowed from every part of the Christian world. The eunuch of Theodosius approached the window with respectful steps, proposed his questions concerning the event of the civil war, and soon returned with a favourable oracle, which animated the courage of the emperor by the assur- ance of a bloody but infallible vic- tory." On the N. side of the projecting comer of the mountain are some lime- stone-quarries, and a few uninteresting grottoes. The View from these hills over the town of Asyoot and the green plain in the early part of the year is very pretty, the prettiest perhaps to be seen in Egypt. The brightness of the green is perfectly dazzUng, and of a tint such as probably can be seen no- where else in the world ; it stretches away too for miles on either side, " unbroken,*' as Dean Stanley so gra- phically says, " save by the mud vil- lages which here and there lie in the midst of the verdure, like the marks of a soiled foot on a rich carpet.*' Immediately below the hills on the S. side is the modern cemetery. The tombs are arranged with con^'derable taste, and have a neat and pleasing appearance. On going to them from the town you pass along a raised dyke, with a bridge over a canal that skirts the cultivated land. The latter answers the same purpose as the Bahr Yoosef in central Egypt in carrying the water of the inundation to the portion of the plain most distant from the river; and in one of the ponds ROUTE 19.— EL-WASTA — ABOOTEEG. by a lateral canal, the "very conve- nient " spring mentioned by Michaelis is to be looked for, the credit of which newly-married brides may often be greatly interested in maintaining. On the sonthem comer of the moun- tain, immediately above the village of Dronka, is a large bed of alal]^ter lying upon the limestone-rock, but not sufficiently compact to admit of its being quarried for use. There are also some grottoes behind the village of Beef a, about a mile to the S. of Dronka. Pliny seems to think that these hills formed the northern boundary of the Thebai'd, since he says, "in Libyco Lyoon, ubi montes finiunt Thebai'dem." Bat this could not be so, as it extended much, forther N. to the Thebaica Phylace. (TF.) At 8hodb are the mounds and crade-Drick remains of Hypsele, in Coptic Shdtp, which gave its name to one of the nomes of Egypt. Near to Lycopoliswas a fort called in Coptic Tgeli, and the village of Paphor, in the district of Sh6tp,the sites of which have yet to be identified. Other vil- lages beyond Shodb are Moosh and Baroog, iE,) M'Wasta, on the E. bank, is probably the successor of Centra Lyco- foUt, but it has no remains. At the oend of the river between Esh-Shug- ^b and El-Gutteea, on the E. ba^ 18 a sbeykh's tomb, and some distance from it, under the hills, is a ruin apparently of Christian time. Kutee- f^hy on the W. bank, abounds in sont or Acacia Nilotica ; and it is a good place for purchasing charcoal, with which it sappliee Asyoot. At El-MUdmur are the mounds of an old town, by some supposed to be MotUhis, a small place to the N. of Antffiopolis. But the dis- tanoe of Mddmur from Gow is too niuch, and the position of Mouthis ^▼en in the Itinerary requires it to flft^ been near Baluneh. Much sont ^ grows near Miidmur, which, like wat on the road to Abydus, may be ve lemnant of one of the old groves 1 Of Aeanthns. At the N, of the I H^^eetii^ cmter of ^e mountain, 425 behind Miidmur, is a road called Derb ImoWf which crosses this part of tlie eastern chain of hills, and re- joins the valley of the Nile by a ravine near the grottoes of Gow ; and another, called Nukh el-Hossayriy leads from a little above Dayr Tassay and descends at the comer of the same mountain a short way to the W. of the same grottoes. To the E. of Mddmur are quarries of the same Oriental ala- baster that abounds in these hills, from which columns have been cut. (E.) A little beyond Miidmur is Sherg Selin. It has no ruins, but, from its name, it seems to lay claim to the site of Selinon, though the Itine- rary places Selinon half-way between AntBBopolis and Panopolis. Perhaps in this place we should read Passalon for Selinon. At El-Khowdhid are some mounds, but no ruins ; and in the lulls to the N.E. are some limestone-quarries. About a mile farther to the S.E. are some grottoes, at the projecting comer of the hills, and others behind the Dayr Tassa. (TF.) Ahoote^g, 15 m., stands on the site of an ancient town on the W. bank ; and Wansleb mentions Sidfeh (or Sitfeh) as the successor of another, about 5 m. to the S. of it. Aboote^g is the Ahutis of Latin writers, the Apothyke or Tapothyhe of the COpts : which, as M. Chiampollion suggests, is very probably a Greek word signifying "granary," adopted by the Copts. Aboolfeda says that in his time the poppy was much cultivated in the vicinity, and it still continues to be grown there. The old mounds outside the town, locally known as Kom AJileh, have been gradually removed, and no traces now remain. Abooteeg, like most towns inhabited by a majority of Copts, is particularly clean and neat, and contains some good shops. From Abooteeg the course of the river north- wards formerly lay more inland to the W. This is consistent with the position of Selinon, on the opposite bank, to which a canal is said to have led from the NUe. ( W.) Koog-kam, yq. Co^\.Vi'?k.a&^feKB\^ stands on t\ie NJ. XiWiSaL, \ieXj«vi^'». Abooteeg aii4 Go>r e\- Qi\isfi^s«^l^^^ 426 ROUTE 19. — CAIRO TO THEBES. Sect. vn. It was called ApoUinis Minor Civitus, to distinguish it from ApoUinopolis Magna and Parva, now Edfoo and Koos. {E.) Behind El-Beddreh, on the E. bank, are some unscnlptured caves of early time with round lintels ; and be- hind Kom Ahmar, a little farther N., are others with slight remains of rude painting ; and one to the N. of these has a few hieroglyphics over the en- trance. The rest are without sculpture, including those behind the Dayr Tassa already mentioned. {E.) Radineh, a pretty-looking vil- lage with groves of palm-trees, and many pigeon-towers. In the hill be- hind, and close to Nesleh Badineh, are some very old tombs hewn in the rock, of the same age as those about the pyramids; they have the same kind of subjects, and the same round lintels ; the boats have the old double mast ; and the capitals, in the form of a full-blown lotus, are represented in the house as in the tomb of trades behind the Great Pyramid. In the largest tomb, which is about 40 ft. in length, are several statues in high relief, and the roof is cut to represent palm-tree beams. Farther to the S,, between these and the projecting comer of the mountain below Gow, is a large quarry, and at its mouth are the moimds of an old town, the bricks of which bear the name of Amunoph III. Here or at Raaineh was the site of Muthis. Bound the mountain-point, which then curves in- wards to the E., are some old, and some later, grottoes, the former of the same date as those of Asyoot, the others of the age of the Bomans, and perhaps painted by them, being orna- mented with arabesques and devices of that time. The subjects, however, are Egyptian, and funereal. Near them are some crude-brick remains. In another large quarry, some dis- tance beyond these to the eastward, are two singular representations of the giant-god Antseus, accompanied by Nephthys, holding in his left hand a spear and an oryx. In one of these making offerings to him. Over the other altar is an enchorial inscription. These paintings are of the same late time as the Boman-Egyptian tombs just mentioned. {E.") Gow eUKeheer, 14^ m., in Coptic TkSoUf is the ancient AntseopoUi. The remains of the temple of Antieus have now wholly disappeared. The last remaining column of the temple, mentioned by Dr. Richardson, was carried away by the river in 1821, which Mr. Legh says, as early as 1813, threatened ** to wash the whole away." At the time he visited it the portico was still standing, and much in the same state as when seen by Norden and Pococke in 1737. Mr. Hamilton found the Greek inscription on the frieze of the portico in a veiy imperfect state, the stones having been broken into six separate pieces; but sufScient remained to show that "King Ptolemy, the son of Ptolemy and Cleopatra, gods EpiphaDes, En- charistes, and queen Gleopatrsk, the sister of the Mng, gods Philome- tores, erected the (P^)naos to Antaras and the oontemplar gods;" andthi^ " the emperors, the Ctesars, Anrellii, Antonius (and Varus) repaired the roof.'' Inland from Gow el-Kebe6p is a large lake, where capital goose and duck shooting may be had in the early part of the year : but the birds are veiy difficult of approach, and if the tra- veller has a small English boat with him, he tdiould have it carried to the lake. Near AntsBopolis the fabulous battle between Horus and Typhon was re- puted to have taken place, which ended in the defeat of the latter, who had assumed the form of a crocodile; and here Antseus is said to have been killed by Hercules in the time of Osiris. Of these two fables we may in vain endeavomr to discover the origin or the meaning; but it is probable that the story of AntsBUS is a Greek perversion of some legend, as his name is corrupted from tluit of one of the ancient gods of the Egyptian Pan- Iie Jma raya round his liead like \ t\i<^ii. He was probably a foreign ibe Sim, anc? hefoi^ him is a piiQ8t\dei\.^; ^ '^^'t^ W VweW ^ \Qca\ ^e^Nr^ ^"^ 428 ROUTE 19. — CAIUO TO TIIKBES. Sect. YII. (K) At Foic^ ill Coptic Fliboou- Tgelij are the mounds of an ancient town. It was distino^uished from an- other Fow, beyond Chenoboscion, which the Greeks called Bopos, by the adjunct Tgeli, signifying a " fort." By its position in the level plain be- tween the mountains and the Nile it commanded the road from AntsBoplis to Chemmis. CE.) lu the mountains behind Ket- kdtee are one large, and numerous small grottoes (without sculpture), and the bodies appear to be preserved without bitumen. There are others again behind Fow ; and at the comer of the mountain, to the N. of Ekh- meem are some of Roman time. ( W.) It/oo lies inland. It was the ancient Aphroditopolis, in Coptic Atho or TJibo. About f m. to the S.W. of Itfoo is the Red Monastery ; and 2^ m, to the S.S.E. is the White Monastery. The best road to them is from Soohdg, whicli stands near the end of the reach of the river below Ekhmeem. (TF.) Sobhag, 26 miles, the capital of the province of Girgeh, is a well- built and important town, with some good houses and mosques, and a well- supplied bazaar and Greek shops. Its mounds show it to have succeeded to an old town, but there are no stone remains. Soohag has given its name to a large canal called Toora, Khale€g or Moie-t-Soohdg, that takes the water of the Nile into the interior during the inundation, and is similar in size and purport to the Bahr Yoosef. It is this canal which irrigates the plain about Asyoot, and the lands to the S. of Daroot esh-Shereef, as- sisted here and there by lateral canals from the river. ltd entrance is well constructed, being lined with hewn stone. A gisr, or raised dyke, forms the usual communication, during tlie high Nile, with the villages in the in- terior; and here and there, on the way to Itfoo and the two monasteries, you pass other smaller canals, all which^ as well ns the Moie-t-Soohag, are without water in summer. Several ffmalJ ponds, also dry at this season, are passed on the way ; and at the edge of the cultivated land the pea- sants sink wells for artificial irriga- tion: the water of the Nile filtering through the soil to any distance from the banks, and affording a constant supply at the then level of the river. In the winter, when the water still re- mains in the ponds, very good duck- shooting may be had on the way to the monasteries. "The ornithologist should make the excursion if he is desirous of obtaining the Egyptian eagle owl {Bubo a8calaphus\ or the brown-necked raven {Corvus ««- brinus)*' — Shelley. ( W.) The White Monastery or Con- vent {Dayr el-dbiad\ so called firom the stone of which it is built, but better known by the name of Amiiai- Shendodehj stands on the edge of the desert, and its inmates cultivate a small portion of land about it, in the capacity of fellaheen. The monastery is in fact only a Christian village, being inhabited by women as well as men, with their feimilies. In former times the monks probably lodged in rooms over the colonnade, as the holes for rafters in the walls appear to show, but these people now live in the lower part, which once formed the aislps of the church. They have adopted the same precaution aa their brethren at Bibbeh, in order to se- cure the building in turbulent times against the assaults of the Moslems; and their Christian patron, like St. George of Bibbeh, is converted into a Moslem sheykh, who commands the respect of the credulous under the appellation of Sheykh Aboo Shendo- deh. The monastery is built of hewn stones, measuring about 3 ft 3 in. by 1 ft. 3 in., many of which belonged to ancient buildings of the neiglibouring town of Athribis. The summit of the walls is crowned throughout by a stone cornice, like that of Egyptian temples, though without the torus, which in Egyptian architecture sepa- rates the cornice from the architrave, or from the face of the wall. On the exterior of the S. side are square mcYics, OTi<^& c^cAicM^^ as was all the ^\i\xMmS\ asiOi oiv \Jaft '&* *5ft «s»»ll Egypt. route: 19. — THE WHITE MONASTERY. 429 windows, built up within the old square niches, which are placed at in- tervals along all the walls, except on that side nearest the mountain, which lias been added at a later time. Six doors formerly led into the inte- rior, five of which have been closed with masonry, leaving that alone on the S. side, which is now the only entrance. Over all the doors a pro- jecting wall of brickwork has been Duilt in order to strengthen them ; doubtless at a time when they were threatened by an attack from the Arabs or the Memlooks, on which occasion even the solitary door now open was closed, and protected in the same manner. Near the S. door are the fragments of red granite columns and statues. From the walls project blocks not unlike the gurgoyles or water-spouts of Egyptian temples, as at Dendera and other places, though there is no reason to suppose this was ever a temple, even of late time. It may, however, have derived the form of Its exterior from those edifices, which the builders had been accus- tomed to see in the country, while the architectural details are Byzantine ; and, judging from the number of columns and the style of the interior, it seems to have been erected at a time when Christianity was under the special protection of the imperial go- vernment. Pococke supposes it to be of the time of the Empress Helena ; and the tradition among tho monks dates its foundation about 150 years after her death. Over the door on the desert side is a cornice ornamented with Corinthian foliage, above which is a stone with square dentils, both of red g^ranite ; and over the door, at the end of the entrance passage, is another block of red granite with Doric tri- glyphs and gutta. The area within, like our churclies and the old basilicas, consists of a nave and side- aisles, separated from each other by a row of about 14 columns, mostly of red granite, with various oajntals of a lato time. One of the Corinthian, and another of the Ionic order, nppear to be of a better age. The totol breadth of the building inside is 78 ft. At the E. end is tho choir, consisting of 3 semicircular apses, and before the central one is a screen with some miserable representa- tions of St. George. Here are several Coptic inscriptions, in one of which may be read the words "Athanasius the Patriarch," the rest being much de- faced. The half-domes of the apses are painted with frescoes ; the centre one representing a large figure of the Sa- viour seated on his throne with the emblems of the 4 Evangelists at the side of a sort of vesica that surrounds him. The date of these subjects is uncertain ; but they are evidently later than the building, its oruaments being covered by the stucco on which they are painted. There are several Coptic inscriptions in the church, and one in uncial Greek characters upon a column to the 1. as you face the central apse. On three sides of this building, and at a short distance from it, are the remains of brickwork, of which the outer wall was built; and perhaps tlie present building was only the church of a monastery formerly at- tached to it. Tradition reports that this convent stands on the site of an Egyptian city caUed Medeenet Atreeh, and the ruins in its vicinity may be the remains of an old town; bnt the remains of the old Athrtbis or Crocodilopolis stand about half an hour's ride to the souths ward, where a ruined temple and extensive mounds still mark its site under the name of Medeenet Ashaysh. In tho midst of mounds of pottery lie large blocks of limestone, 14 to 15 ft. long, by 3, and 5 ft. thick, the remains of a temple 200 ft. by 175, facing the S., and dedicated to the lion-headed goddess Tliriphis. Over tlie door is a king offering to Thriphis, Khem, and other deities, over whom is the name of Ptolemy the Elder, son of Auletes ; and it is probable that the foundation of the building is even of a still earlier date. On a stone, at the southern extremity of the ruins, which covered the oenltfe A.QCit^«^ «t cv^Nsscass.-^ of the portico, at€> xv^Okft^ «rs«w^^^ 's^ either aide o^ a ^ic^a^ q^ KvXvcvt, «^^- 430 notJTE 19. — CAIllO TO THEBES. Sect vn. mounted by a globe containing the mysterious eye, with two asps, wear- ing the crowns of Upper and Lower Egypt, the whole group being com- pleted by two sitting deities. Such are the ornamental devices of cornices and architrayes on temples of the time of the empire, as at Dendera and other places. On the soflfit of the same were the ovals of Tiberius Clau- dius Kaisaros (OsBsar) Germanicus (?) ; and on the other side a Greek in- scription accompanied by the ovals of Claudius CsBsar Germanicus. On the face of the mountain about half a mile W.S.W. J 8. of the White Convent are some rock-tombs, having passages sloping in at an angle of 34° for lowering coflBns. They have scarcely any remains of hieroglyphics, but are of very early date. The rock here bears curious marks of running water, and stalagmitic deposits. About half a mile beyond the ruins of Athri- bis are the quarries from which the stone of the temple was teiken; and below are several small grottoes that have served for tombs, and were once furnished with doors, secured, as usual, by a bolt or lock. On the lintel of one of them is a Greek inscription, saying that it was **the sepulchre of Ermius, the son of Archibius." It has the Egyptian cornice and torus. In the interior are cells, and it con- tains the scattered residue of burnt bones. Through one of its side walls an entrance has been forced into the adjoining tomb. The mountain ap- pears to have had the name in Coptic of PtoovrTiratrepe, from the ncighbour- ingcity. The Bed Convent (Dayr eUAhmar), so-called from the brick of which it is built, but better known by the name of Amba Bishoi, lies to the N.N.W. It is rather older than the White Convent ; but they are probably both of a later date than the Empress Helena. Its founder, according to Wansleb, was a penitent robber, whose club was kept by the monks as a memorial of his wicked course of life. It is built in the same style as the other convent ; Us]ong'3at walla surmounted by the JfJgyptian cornice, which is also oi stone. Its small brick windows are pointed and slightly stUted, and are in their construction very like those in the convents of Old Cairo, added by the early Christians, and in the mosque of Amer. The northern entrance (long since closed) is ornamented with devices and capitids of Byzantine time, elaborately sculptured. What is now the church was perhaps originally only the E. end of it, the outer part then forming the nave and aisles of this basilica-shaped building. The church consists of a transverse corridor^ and a central and two side apses; and on each half-dome is painted a fresco, as at the White Convent. Like other early Christian churches, it does not stand E. and W., but 67° E. of N., and that of the White Convent 59° E. of N., by compass. In the face of the hill, 1 J m. S.W. I W. from the Red Convent, is a rock- tomb, with a few vestiges of sculp- tures. It is called Magharat Kafei, An ancient road leads towards it from near the convent. (E,) Ekhmeem stands at a short distance from the river-bank, 2 or3 m. above Soohag. It is a large town, with a bazaar, and a market-^iy eveiv Wednesday. Here are made the check cotton shawls with silk fringes, so often worn by the Nile boatmen. Ekhmeem occupies the site of Chemmis or Pano- polisj in Coptic Chmim or Shmim, for- merly one of the most considerable cities of the Thebaid. There is a Franciscan convent school here and two Coptic churches. A great num- ber of the inhabitants are Christians. It was at Ekhmeen that Nestorius, after 16 years' exile, ended his days and was buried, in the middle of the 5th centy. On the side of the town farthest from the river, beyond the present walls, are the remains of some of the ancient biiild- ings. A long inscription, bearing the date of the 12th year of the Emperor Trajanus Germanicus Dacicus, points out the site of the Temple of Pan ; who, as we learn from the dedication, shares with Thriphis the honours of the \ BaTictQfii.Tj . N^ Ck «i^ ^aoertain another Egypt. very important fact from this inscrip- tioiiy that the deity, who has been called Priapus and Mendes, is in reality the Pan of Egypt, his figure being represented on the same face of the stone with the dedication : which ac- cords very well with the description of the deity of Panopolis, given by Btephanus of Byzantium. On the soffit is a circle divided into 12 coin- partments, probably astronomical ; but these, as well as the figures on the neigh- bouring block, are nearly all defaced. These are, doubtless, the remains of the fine temple mentioned by Abool- feda, which he reckons among the most remarkable in Egypt, as well for the size of the stones used in its con- straotion, as for the profusion of sub- jects sculptured upon them. Vestiges of other ruins are met with some distance beyond, which may pro- bably have belonged to the temple of Perseus ; but a few imperfect sculp- tures are all that now remain, and it is with difficulty we can trace on its scattered fragments the name of Ptolemy, the son of Auletes, and that of the Emperor Domitian. There are also the names of Thothmes III. and of a queen, probably of one of the late Pharaohs. In the hieroglyphic texts Ekhmeem is called ^'Ap, the abode of Khem," who in other inscriptions is entitled the master of Ap. Ap was the chief city of the ninth nome of Ancient Egypt. According to Strabo, Panopolis was a veiy ancient city, and the inhabitants were &mous as linen manufacturers aiKl workers in stone ; nor were they, if we may believe Herodotus, so much raejudiced against the manners of the Ureeks as the rest of the Egyptians. The people of Ghemmis, he says, are the only Egyptians who are not re- markable '^ibr their abHorrence of Greek customs. Ghemmis is a large dty of the Thebai'd, near Neapolis, where there is a temple of Perseus, the son ot Danae. This temple is of a square form, and surrounded by palm-tiees. It has stone propyla of oonriderable size, upon which are two large statues; and within the sacred ciraiit stoodv the auictn&ry, having | noTTTE 19. — Ekhmeem. 431 in it an image of Perseus. For the Chemmites say that Perseus has often appeared in their country," &c. The notion of the great antiquity of Panopolis seems to have been tradi- tionally maintained even to the time of the Moslems ; and Leo Africanus con- siders it " the oldest city of all Egypt," having, as he supposes," been founded by Ekhmeem, the son of Misraim, the offspring of Gush, the son of Ham.*' It seems to have suffered much at the period of the Arab conquest; and to such an extent was the fury of the in- vaders carried against this devoted city, that "nothing was left of its buildings but their foundations and ruined walls;" and all the columns and stones of any size were carried to the other side of the river, and used in the embellishment of Mensheeyeh. In Pococke's time Ekhmeem was the residence of a powerful chief^ who took firom it the title of emeer or prince of Ekhmeem. His family, which was originally from Barbary, established itself here three or four generations before, and obtained from tiie Sultan the government of this part of the country, upon condition of paying an annual tribute. But their name and influence have now ceased, and, like the Howdra Arabs, once so well known in these districts, the princes of Ekhmeem are only known from the accounts of old tra- vellers, and the traditions of the people. They show their tombs, with those of their slaves ; 'and in the cemetery, near the ruins, is the Tonib of Sheykh Ahoo *l Kdsim, the patron of the town. Boats, ostrich-eggs, and inscriptions are hung up within it as ex-votos to the saint ; and a tree within the holy precincts is studded with nails, driven into it by persons suffering from Ulness, in the hopes of a cure. Pococke speaks of some convents near Ekhmeem, one called "of the Martyrs," mentioned by the Arab historian Makreezee, and another about two miles farther in a wild valley^ which is compoeied ot ^q\>\a^j& Va. '^'^ rock, and a "bTvc\5. c^w^ c«s«t«^^'>^^ Coptic inacTiptioTVft. ^e»x KJc^a Ns» ^ 432 nOUTE 19. — CAIRO To TIIE6ES. Sect. vn. rude beaten path, leading to what appears to have been the abode of a hermit. This valley is doubtless the Wddy d'A in (" Valley of the Spring "), between 3 and 4 m. to the N.E. of Ekhmeem, in wliich are a spring of water and grottoes, and oil the S. of its mouth an old road leading over the mountains. Close to this is a modem pass called Nulcb el-Kdlee, which crosses the mountains, and de- scends again into the valley, in the district of Sherg Weled Yahia, nearly opposite Barde'es. (E.) Behind the village of Howa- weesh are other grottoes, of very an- cient date ; in which Mr. Harris found the hieroglyphic name of the nome of Panopolis ; and 3 m. above Ekhmeem are the vestiges of an ancient town, probably TJiomu. The remains there consist of mounds and crude brick. Thomu should be the place called in Coptic Thmoui m Paneheou ; but M. Champollion endeavours to show from a Copt MS. that it was an island on the western side of the Nile, opposite Ekhmeem ; and its name, *^ tlie Island of the place of Cattle," argues that it was not on the mainland, if even it could be to the E. of Panopolis. Thomu, however, is placed by the Itinerary on the E. bank, 4 m. above Panopolis, and therefore agrees with the position of these mounds. Some other places are mentioned in the Coptic JIS8. as having existed in the vicinity of Ekhmeem : but of their exact position nothing is satis- factorily known. These are PUuiU Shenalciet^ and Tsminey the first of which appears to have been an ancient town of some consequence; the se- cond, from its name, a village with many vineyards in its neighbourhood ; and in the last was a monastery founded by St. Pachomius. (TT.) Mensheeyehy 11 m., has exten- sive mounds, but the only vestiges of masonry consist in a stone quay on the E. side of the town. It stands on a small branch of the Nile, which was probably once the main stream. By the Copts it ia called Psoi, and some- V of CUnstian origin. It still contains ^j'wes w Arabic MSS. El-MonB\\at, aaXa \eii^ Q\im\.\»DL vs^^qNaN&ssqu When well as Mensheeyeh. It is soppoeed to occupy the site of PtdUmaU JaermU; which, according to Strabo, was the largest town in the Thebaid, and not inferior to Memphis. Bat neither its original extent, nor that of any city in Upper Egypt, except Thebes itself, can justify this assertion of the geo- grapher. He even gives it a poIitioJ system, on the Greek model; which, if true, may refer to some change in its government, after it had been re- built and had received the name of Ptolemai's; for it doubtless sncoeeded to a more ancient city, and Ptolemy calls it the capital of the Thinito nome. Leo Auricanus says it was "badly built, with narrow streets, and so dusty in summer that no one could walk out on a windy day. The neighbourhood, however, was fomoos for abundance of com and cattle. It was once possessed by a certain Afiioan prince from the Barbary coast, called Howara, wliose predecessors obtained the principality of that name, of which they were deprived by Soliman, the 9th Sultan of the Turks." From Mensheeyeh to Girgeh the eastern chain of hills comes down close to the river, and is known by the name of G^d Tookh. At its northern extremity are the rains of an old town, about a mile above Lahdiwa. There are many tombs in the face of the cliff, and large quarries of the Ptolemaic and later periods, contain- ing inscriptions in Greek, Latin, and Demotic writing. One of these men- tions Menippides, who opened the quarry in tlie reign of Ptolemy Soter. There are also salutations noade by Eoman soldiers on guard, and the name of the ^ third Iturean cohort" ( W.) Ayserat on the W. bank is still noted, like Girgeh and Easr es-Syad, for its numerous turkeys. (E.) Qeergehf or Girgeh, 13 m., for- merly the capital of the province of the same name, but now much sunk in importance. It has not sacceeded to any ancient town of note, and frcpn its name it is easy to pexceive that it is Egypt. ROUTE 19. — GEERGEH — ABYDUS. 433 yisited by Pocooke and Norden, it was a quarter of a mile from the river ; but it is now on the bank, and part of it has ahready been washed away by the stream. This is one of many proofs of the great changes that have taken place in the course of the Nile within a few years, and fully accounts for certain towns, now on the river, being laid down by ancient geographers in an inland position. At Girgeh there is a Latin convent or monastery, the superior of which is an European. It is the oldest Roman Catholic establishment now in Egypt, those of Ekhmeem, Farshoot, and Tahta, being the next in order of antiquity. Some consider that of Ne- g^deh the most ancient. It was not nom a Latin but from a Copt convent that Girgeh received its name, and Girgis, or George, as is well known, is the patron saint of the Egyptian Christians. Leo Africanus tells us that ^* Girgeh was formerly the largest and most opulent monastery of Christians, called after St George, and inhabited by upwards of 200 monks, who possessed much land in the neighbourhood. They supplied fbod to all travellers; and so great was the amount of their revenues, that they annually sent a large sum to the patriarch of Cairo, to be distributed among the poor of their own per- suasion. About 100 years ago a dread- ful plague afflicted Egypt, and carried off all the monks of this convent, wherefore the prince of Mensheeyeh snrroonded the ouilding with a strong wall and erected houses within, for the abode of various workmen and shop- keepers. In process of time, however, the patriarch of the Jacobites (or Copts) having made a representation to the Sultan, he gave orders that another monastery should be built on the spot, where an ancient city for- merly stood, and assigned to it only a sufficient revenue to enable it to main- tain 30 monks." Abydus may be visited from Girgeh, bat it is a long weary ride of 12 miles, and it is fieur better to go from Bel- lianeh. Hie only place of importance between Girgeh and Abydua ia Bar- IBgffpL-^Fr, U.] deesj well known in the time of the Memlooks, who gave the title El- Bardeesee to one of the principal Beys, hence called Osman Bey el-Bardeesee. Farther to the S.W. is a town with old mounds, called El-Beerheh — a name taken from the Coptic Perpcj " the temple," and commonly applied to ancient buildings. ( W.) Bellianehy 8 m., has succeeded to an old town whose mounds mark its site. Its Coptic name is Tpourane. Donkeys can be procured here for going to Abydus, distant about 6 m., or 2J hours. ExcuBsiON TO Abydus. The way lies across a very rich plain till the edge of the desert is reached, on which stands the modem village of Ardbatj sumamed by the Arabs of Matfodn (" the buried "), from the ancient edifices that until lately lay covered with the desert sand aU around. Abydus, or Thinis (in Coptic Ebot ; in the hieroglyphics Ahoody or Ab of the Mountain; called in the Harris papyrus, Abood Sap Ooser — ^Abydus, the land or region of Osiris), was one of the largest and most important cities in Upper Egypt. Strabo indeed says that, though in his time reduced to the state of a small village, it had formerly held the first rank next to Thebes — a positipn which was pro- bably assigned to it as having been the birth-place of Menes, and the burial-place of Osiris. "There are many places," says Plutarch, "where his corpse is said to have been de- posited; but Abydus and Memphis are mentioned in particular as having the true body ; and for this reason the rich and powerful of the Egyptians are desirous of being buried in the former of these cities, in order to lie, as it were, in the same grave as Osiris himself." Its ruins are on a grand scale, and of considerable antiquity ; and, thanks to the recent excavations of M. Mariette, have been to a great extent cleared from their sandy e&Q\A. ^^>^- ginning at ^e ^. eiA qH >i\\a x^qmca^'^^ urst largo e^fiicsiievwKSfciSi^SaVJsv^ TBttiM or Sbtbi LI Abtixm Egy^t. ROUTE 19. — ^ABYDUS: TEMPLE AND TABLET. 435 Temple of Sethi I., father of Bame> 868 U. T]ii8 is the building called by Strabo the " Memnonium/' and de- servedly praised by him for the magni- ficence of its decoration. The plan of this temple is somewhat irregular, and it is difficult to determine tiie mean- ing and object of its various parts. In the outer court are some very fine sculptures which retain much of their colour. They show Rameses receiving blessings from Thoth, Anubis, Osiris, Horus, and other divinities. The First Hall has two rows of columns. The sculptures are in the peculiar intaglio whidi under the Ptolemies became such a poor art. Observe in the N.W. corner Bameses ofiering a golden statuette of himself to Osiris. The long is here represented as a very young man. On the columns are figures, supporting the royal oval, which have been ta^en by some autho- rities to represent the Phoenix. They occur also at Tel el-Yahoodeh, Esneh, and some other places, and specimens are in the British Museum,andresemble a bet with human hands. In front of each is a star, and below the hiero- glyph ft«& (lord). The Second Hall has three rows of colunms. Here are perhaps the best sculptures. They are in low rdief, Observe at the N. end a picture of Sethi making an ofiering to Osiris of an image of Ma, the g^dess of jus- tice. This is perhaps the finest ex- ample of the art of the XlXth Dynasty, ana may be considered the chef d'ceuvre of Hi, who, as we know from inscrip- tions at Thebes, was chief sculptor to Sethi I. His coadjutor, Amen-nah- 80, does not seem, to judge from the painting here, to have been an equally clever artist, and it is hardly possible to regret that this figure of Sethi has been wholly denuded of paint, and iiow appears only in the beautifol white marble from which it is cut. ^rom the Second Hall seven short ^tssages lead westward into as many yauUed Chambers. The method of Qonstmoting the roo& of these cham- l>etB is vary singular. They are foitmsd of large blodcs of stone, oxtend- ftom tme atobitiave io the other ; not, as usual in Egyptian buildings, on their faces, but on their sides ; so that, considerable thickness having been given to the roof, a vault was afterwards cut into it, without en- dangering its solidity. The whole was covered with hieroglyphics and sculptures beautifully coloured; and on the ceiling the ovals of the king remain, with stars, and transverse bandS containing hieroglyphics. A short passage on the W. side of the third vaulted chamber from the N. leads into a small hall supported by ten columns. Here the colour is extremely fresh, and the sculpture delicate. Observe Horus in his shrine on the E. wall. On the rt. of this hall as you enter are some other small chambers covered with very highly finished sculptures. From the S. end of the Second Hall leads a narrow slightly ascend- ing Passage, the ceiling and sides of wlach are covered with sculptures. Amid the stars and king's ovals with which the ceiling is decorated is an inscription commemorating the dedi- cation of the temple. On the left or E. wall are four scenes. The first, second, and fourth represent offerings made to Ammon, Horus, and Osiris. In the third Sethi and his son Bameses are represented standing in front of a tablet, on which are engraved the names of 130 divinities, which the text calls ^'the great and the small cycle of the divinities of the sacred places of the north and the south." The rt. or W. wall is divided into four scenes like the other, and in the one immediately opposite the tablet of divinities just mentioned is the Tablet of Abydns, in which Sethi and Bameses are ofiering homage to 76 kings their predecessors, Sethi himself being included. From the beauty of the engraving, the perfect state of preservation in which it was found, and its historical import- ance, this is one of the most in- teresting monuments in Egypt. The list of these 76 kings begins with Menes and ends with SetM L Iti& arranged in thiee \Mi«e»,\sViXi VJc»a \«^ line oonsiatB etLUwiVj ^]^ ^^a Vhq xissas^ of BqM. lJ\i© U\>\b^ ^wa ««c»^^^^ 436 ROUTE 19. — CAIRO TO THEBES. Sect. vn. in 1865, and is conjectured by M. Marietta to be the original of the frag- mentary one found in the temple of Bameses U. at Abyduu, and now in the British Museum. Bameses copied the list made by his father. M. Ma- riette further supposes that the kings whose names are given on these two tablets, are those who had more par- ticularly been connected with Abydus, either through having been bom there, or having added to and embellished the city ; just as the list of kings engraved by Thothmes III., in wliat is called the "Hall of Ancestors,** taken from Kamak, and now at Puris, contains the names of those who had more particularly benefited Thebes. In a chamber opening to the W. from the passage containing the tab- let, is a picture of Sethi assisting his son, Bameses, here represented as a boy, to catch a wild bull. In spite of the conventional proportions, this picture is full of spirit. Other pictures show the young Bameses sacrificing, and in one curious scene he is apparently fowling, assisted by a number of divinities. There are various other smaller columnar halls and chambers to the S., many of them covered with highly- finished painted sculptures. The motif of these pictures is the same here as in all the temples of the Pha- raonic period, viz., the king adoring the divinity of the place. In the vaulted chambers of this temple the paintings represent in successive order the different ceremonial observances. The king on entering the chamber, round which were placed in their shrines the statues of different divi- nities, turned to the right, and open- ing each shrine in succession, offered incense to the divinity, removed the covering which enveloped it, placed his hands on it, sprinkled p^ume on it, and then re-covering it, passed on to the next shrine, and so round the chamber. Temple of Bameses II. — ^THis temple lies a short way across a high mound materials of which it was composed were of unusual richness, the wsdls of one chapel being lined with oriental alabaster, and covered, so far as can be gathered from the few fragments that remain, with very fine sculptures richly painted. It was from a wall of this temple that the mutilated tablet of Abydus referred to above wan taken. It was first discovered by Mr. Banks in 181 8 ; and having been carried away by M. Mimaut, the French Consul- general, and sold in Paris, is now deposited in the British Museum. This temple is scarcely inferior in extent to the first, but has suffered much more at the hands of the de- stroyer. A great court, surrounded by 18 Osiride figures, opened into the inner chambers, by a magnificent doorway of red and black granite. On either doorpost are sculptured long cartouches, in which the many names and titles of Bameses II. are summed up, the whole appropriately supported below by a figure of Ma, the goddess of justice. The entrance to the court is from the E., where a similar gate- way of red granite has the same sculp- tures. The walls rise to a height of 8 ft. in places, and are covered with processions, among which may be found some pictures of fat cattle. The remaining sculptures, though they retain much colour, are uninteresting, being merely repetitions of the scenes in the other temple, in a style of art slightly inferior. Site of Thinis. — Continuing still in a N. direction, we reach a large crude-brick enclosure. This probably marks the site of Thinis, the cradle of the Egyptian monarchy, and the place where was situated the tomb of Osiris, a sanctuary as venerated by the ancient Egyptians as the Holy Sepulchre by Christians. Inside this enclosure is a mound called the K6m es'SuUdn, It is not a natural tumulus, but is formed by the heaping up of tombs in suooessive ages one upon another ; and M. Marlette thinks with great probability that these may to the N, It 18 dedicated, like that I be the tombs of the rich Egyptians oi ofJua father Sethi, to Osiris. TVvoW\iom^\\x\»a<^«^Q»!ks^«acoi^ Egypt. ROUTE 19.— THlNrS— COPTIC MONASTERY. 437 all parts of the conntry to Abydus to be buried near Osiris. He looks for- ward, moreover, with some hope, to the possibility of finding in the rock at the base of this mound the fieimous tomb of Osiris itself. The necropolis of Abydus has fur- nished a large proportion of the etelse and other objects of interest in the museum at Cairo. The tombs are principally of the Vlth, Xllth, and Xmth Dynasty periods. Those of the Xnith Dynasty are often small pyramids of crude brick with the centre hollowed out. Many of the tombs of the Y Ith Dynasty are vaulted, and present instances of the true arch. When the Kdm es-Sultan has been traversed in a northerly direction, the first of two very singular and interest- ing crude-brick buildings is reached. It consists of an enormous fort, sur- rounded with double walls, which stand 12 ft. apart ; the interior space being plastered and whitewashed. The outer face of the inner wall is fomi^ed with massive square but- tresBes. The height of each wall ave- rages 40 ft., but must originally have been much greater. The length of the whole building is 450 ft., and the breadth about 300. It is not easy to discover the age or object of this immense structure, but imder the flooring an enormous nimiber of ibis mummies have been found, each in- terred in an earthenware jar. Coptic Monastery of Amba Musdss. — About I mile N. is another, and ftom the exterior, very similar build- ing, rising, Hke a Norman castle, from the sands of the desert. It contains a Goptio dayr, or monastery, with a church, of great antiquity and interest. The Church, which is constructed of ancient dark-red burnt bricks, is dedicated to Amba Musdss, who is represented in a picture within as an aged white-bearded hermit. It is still surmounted by no less than 23 domes, and consists of three tran- septal aisles, of which that to the E. is septtrsted from the others by carved snd highly-colou2«d wooden screens, •nd Winded by wallg of solid masonry into different heykels (chancels), in each of which is an altar. Each heykel ends flat, and is pierced by niches. The arches and piers which support the whitewashed domes are constructed of dark-red and yellow bricks, which have an excellent effect. The arches are round. To the N.W. of the three main aisles are domed chapels, some of which are in ruins. In one of these is the tank for the water blessed at the Fed eUGhitds on the Eve of the Feast of the Epiphany. The baptismal font of stone still exists, and in one of the heykels is a very an- cient brass candlestick. On 2 of the altars are flat, oblong boards of wood with incised crosses and 'Itjctovs Xpiff' rhs Tibs ©eoG in monogram. There are several pictures in monogram of no great antiquity, and a few MSS. ser- vice-books on cotton paper. Hard by Amba Musass are the massive crude- brick walls, apparently of another dayr, « called Hdsh Boomi. The walls of these two edifices evidently date from ancient Egyptian times, and are of the same general construction as the huge crude-brick edifice already allu- ded to as marking the site of Thinis. The visitor who has time should proceed beyond the dayr some distance along the road towards Girgeh, for the sake of the fine View of the moun- tains which surround this seat of the most ancient civilisation the world has seen. Many tombs appear to have been opened in the face of the cliffs, and to one, at the N. end of the amphi- theatre of hills, a road leads, bordered by walls as at Beni Hassan. The reservoir mentioned by Strabo, which was cased with large stones, may perhaps be traced on the E. of the ancient town ; and it was to this that a canal, called Pan Abdu^ in the hiero- glyphic text, brought the vrater from Uie Nile, passing, as does the present canal, through the grove of Acanthus. From Abydus, a road leads to the Great Oasis, ascending the Libyan chain of mountains nearly due W. of the town. Another "kwA. tvsxv^ \» ^Cwb same Oaa\a iTom^V¥jaViaa.V ^ ^'^^^t^ farther to the ^. oi ^«aL\v^ VXvo^ ^Vo %^ ^^^ 438 ftOlTTE 19. — CAIRO TO THEBES. Secivn. and to Farshoot, and other places in this part of the valley ; the ascent and descent being so much more easy than by the mountain road, or path, to the W. of Abydus (see Rte. 17). (^.) On the opposite bank stood Lepidotum, so called from the worship of the fish Lemdotus ; but its exact position is unKnown, though a place of some size and importance, and mentioned by Ptolemy as one of the large cities of Egypt. (TT.) Sarnhood, inland, occupies the site of an ancient town, called in Coptic Senihoout, or Psenhoout; for though placed more to the N. in the Coptic MSS., it is evident this name can only apply to the modem town of Samhood, whose mounds sufficiently indicate its antiquity. (E.) About the district of Sherg d- Khayam the Nile makes a considerable bend, but resumes its general course, about N. and S., near El Hamra. (TT.) Far shoot, 18 J m., derives its name from the Coptic Bershdout It is a good-sized village with a large sugar-fiEUitory belonging to the Khedive. In Pococke's time Farshoot was the residence of the great sheykh, who governed nearly the whole country on the W. bank ; but he had sdready lost much of his authority, and had great difficulty in collecting his revenues. The inhabitants are descendants of the Howdra tribe of Arabs, who for several years enjoyed undisturbed possession of the soil, under the government of their own sheykhs. They lost tiieir independence under their last sheykh, Hammam, who with an army, said to have consisted of 36,000 horsemen, was entirely defeated by Mohanmied Bey. The family still remain, but they are now like the other peasants. The How^a were always famed for their skill in breeding and manag- ing horses ; the name How^ee, like F^^s, signifies a "horseman," and is still applied to the native riding- masters and horsebreakers of Egypt. The Howdra breed of dogs was not Jess noted in Upper Egypt than that of the horsee; some of which are still ^and about Erment, Baiidt, and\ ^i^iVAii^T^^'^iLKEiias^^ other places, mostly used for guard- ing sheep; and their rough, black, wire-haired coats, their fierce eye,thar size, and their courage, in which they differ so widely from the cowardly fox-dog of Egypt, sufficiently distin- guish them from all other breeds of the country. Nor have the people the same prejudice against dogs as ia Lower Egypt; and indeed the in- habitants of Upper Egypt have gene- rally much fewer scruples on this point than other Moslems, being mostly of the sect of Mdlekee, who view the dog with more indulgent feeling^ The W. bank of the Nile in the whole of this district, which is called Hamram, is remarkably rich and fer- tile ; and the beauty of the landscape is much increased by the large groves of palm-trees and acacia wMch line the bank. (TF.) The next town or village of any size, after Farshoot, is Bajwka. It lies a short distance inland, but it has a port called SdhU-'BB.joon, on the river. Here is a large sugar-fiactory well worth a visit. It is loodly called, like everything else in Egypt worked by steam, El Baboor, an Arab corrup- tion of the French "le vapeur." Be- vond, at the southern extremity of the bend of the river, are How and Kasr es-Sydd, on opposite sides of the river. Here the river takes a very long curve; and as it runs from Keneh to How, its course is S.W., so that the former stands about 9' of latitude more to the N. than How, though higher up the stream. A similar deviation from its course does not occur again, except in the vicinity of Derr in Nubia, and at the great bend of the river above Dongola, which was formerly called the ayKcovcs or elbows of the Nile. (TF.) How, 8 m., in Coptic Hd, Hou, or ^710, occupies the site of DiospolU Parva, Among the usual mounds of rubbish are the foundations of a sand- stone temple with sculptured figures. Behind the village is a Coptic Dayr. About a mile to the S., at me edge of the desert, are other mounds and the remains of buildings. (,E.^ KV. Komr en-Bydd, or **the \ Egypt. hank, are the moimcU of the ancient Chenoboacion, in Coptic SeneseL It was famous for its geese, which were fed there in great numbers; and it was from this circumstance that it borrowed a name which was pro- bably a translation of the original Egyptian. Turkeys seem now to have taken their place; and after Akhayseh, Ayser^t, and Girgeh, they are most abundant at Easr es-Sy^. The fine bold bluff which here rises abruptly from the river is called Gehel Tookh, (E.) About a mile beyond the east- em mouth of the canal of Kasr es- Syid, not very far from the high road, are some tombs of the Vlth Dynasty period. Within them the agricultural and other scenes common to the tombs of Egypt may still be traced on the walls, and some indeed in a very good state of preservation. Many are co- vered with Coptic ex-votos worth studying. The eastern chain of hUls here ap- proaches close to the river for the last time before reaching Thebes, and the weetem or Libyan range, of far bolder and more striking outlme, is soon seen advancing on the right. (E,) IHshnehf a good-sized village, with a well-supplied market on Sim- days. Sand-grouse may often be found in the neighbourhood among the hilfeh grass. The isle of Tahenna was somewhere on the W. bank, between Diospolis Parva (How) and Tentyris. In Coptic it was called Tahenhed or TaJbenit^m. GbampoUion supposes the name to signify ** abounding in palm-trees," or "the place of iiocks;" and the ter- mination eH to refer to the goddess Isis. In Arabic he says it is called Gezeeret el-Gharb, ** the Isle of the West." It was here that, about a.d. 356, St. Pachom (Pachomius) built a monastery, occupying "the vacant island of Tabenne," as Gibbon says, with ** 1400 of his brethren." (JE^ Fowj inland, on the E. bank, marks the site of Bopos, in Coptic Fkboou. Aboot i m. from the river are the ndntaTme ROUTE 19. — TEMPLE OF DENDERAH. 439 (W.) Temple of Denderah, to the N. of the modem village of that name. The usual practice is to moor the boat to the E. bank at the nearest spot for reaching Keneh, a short distance far- ther S. and inland, then cross the river in the sandal and ride on donkeys to Denderah; but by those who can walk the ruins are more easily reached from a point N. of Keneh. The name of Tentyris, or Tenfyra^ in Coptic Tentore, or Nikentorej seems to have originated in that of the god- dess Athor, or Aphrodite, who was particularly worshipped there; and that the principal temple was dedi- cated to this goddess we learn from the hieroglyphics, as well as from a Greek inscription on the front, of the time of Tib^ius, in whose reign its magnificent portico was added to the original builcfing. Tentyra is probably taken from Tei-h-Athor, the abode of Athor, or Athyr. The name Athor is also a compound word, " Tei (or Thy), Hor," signifying " the abode of Ho- rns;" which agrees with what Plu- tarch says, when he calls Athor "Horus' mundane habitation.** The hieroglyphics, too, represent the name of the goddess by a hawk (the emblem of Horus) placed within a house. Egyptian sculpture had long been on the decline before the erection of the present temple of Denderah ; and the Egyptian antiquary looks with little satisfaction on the graceless style of the figures, and the crowded pro- fusion of ill-adjusted hieroglyphics, that cover the walls of this as of other Ptolemaic or Boman monuments. But architecture still retained the grandeur of an earlier period, and though the capitals of the columns were frequently overcharged with ornament, the gene- ral effect of the porticoes erected under the Ptolemies and CsBsars is grand and imposing, and frequently not destitute of elegance and taste. These remarks apply very particu- larly to the temple of Denderah ; and from its superior state of preservation it deserves a distinguished ¥Q.\sk.^ss^ssv^% the most mtet^&^vii^ Ts^ssKsxsckWoNA <25t Egypt. ¥oT \Xio\i^*\\a«}CMSsa»,««v- 440 ROQTE 19. — CAIRO TO THEBES, Sect. VII. heavy, perhaps a barbarous, appear- ance, the portico is doubtless a ^uoblo specimen of architecture: nor is tlie succeeding hall devoid of beauty and symmetry of proportion. The pre- servation of its roof also adds greatly to the beauty, as well as to the interest, of the portico ; and many of those in 1 the Egyptian temples lose their effect ' by being destitute of roofs. Generally speaking, Egyptian temples are more picturesque when in ruins than when entire; being, if seen from without, merely a large dead wall, scarcely relieved by a slight increase in the height of the portico. But this can- not be said of the portico itself ; nor (lid a temple present the same mo- notonous appearance when the painted sculptures were in their original state ; and it was the necessity of reliev- ing the large expanse of flat wall which led to this rich mode of deco- ration. The building of the temple of Den- derah was begun in the reign of the 11th Ptolemy, and completed in that of the Emperor Tiberius, but the sculptures and decorations wore not finished till the time of Nero. The names of the Oaisars are numerous. In the portico may bo distinguished those of Tiberius, Caligula, Claudius, and Nero. On the former front of the temple, now the back of the pronaos, or portico, are those of Augustus and Caligula. This was, in fact, the origi- nal extent of Ihc building, and it was l^revious to the addition of the portico that it was seen by Strabo. The oletest names are of Ptolemy CsBsariou, or Neo-C8Bsar, son of the celebrated Cleo- patra by Julius CsBsar, and of his mother. The Portrait of Cleopatra and that of her son are ou the back wall of the exterior. Neither her fea- tures (which may still be traced) nor her iigure correspond with her renowned beauty. But the portrait is interest- ing, from being the contemporary re- presentation of so celebrated a person ; and, judging from Greek gems, it seems to bear some general resemblance to the original; allowance being made i&r the Efryptian mode of drawing and the want of skill of the artist, who pro- \ bably never saw tho queen, and copied her portrait from some other Imperfect picture. Description of the Temple. — Like all Egyptian temples, it stands in the centre of a large crude-brick enclosure, the height and thickness of whose walls prevented anything that took place inside being seen or heard. From an isolated stone pylon, bearing the names of Domitian and Trajan, a dromos leads up to the entrance. The Portico or pronaos (a) is a mag- nificent hall supported by 24 columns Between the first line of columns on either side of the entrance stretches a high stone screen. In each of the side- walls is a small doorway, which served for the passage of the priests and acolytes bearing offerings. The main entrance was reserved for the king. Immediately on the right after enter- ing the hall are four pictures, repre- senting the c^emonies observed by tlie king before penetrating into the interior of the t^ple. In the first the monarch presents himself at the entrance of the temple, sandals on foot and sceptre in hand, and preceded by five standards. The next scene shows him undergoing the ceremony of pnri* fication at the hands of Thoth and Horns. He then, in the third, receives the two crowns of Upper and Lover Egypt from the goddesses Wati and Suvan. Thus recognised as sovereign of the whole count^, he, in the fourth picture, is seen led by Maut of Thebes and Toom of Heliopolis into the pie- sence of the goddess Athor, to taste of the divine beauty and goodnees- Similar scenes occupy the walls on tlie left of the entrance. On the ceiling is the Zodiac, whi(^ led to so much learned controversy* Through the assistance of the Greek inscription, which was strangely ove^ looked, and the hieroglyphical names of the Caesars on the exterior and ii^* terior walls, which were then tin- known, its date was satis&otoiily ^ certained; and instead of being ^^ early Pharaonic time, or of an ante- diluvian age, it is now confined to ^ moie^ mcitet aud probable antiqai^f ' T\\o o\A^ \!to«i ifi^^aft^ Ysisrv^ ^ TauLB or Dehdekah. 442 llOUTE 19. — CAIRO TO THEBES. Sect.VIL Egypt, at Denderah^ Esneh, aiid its neighbour Ed-Dayr, are of Ptolemaic or of Boman date. The astronomical subjects on the ceilings of the tombs of the kings, and other ancient Egyptian monuments, even if they may be con- sidered zodiacal, are represented in a totally different manner ; and we may be certain that the zodiac, as we know it, is not Egyptian. But it is remark- able that in those of Denderah and Esneh the sign Cancer is represented by a scarabsBUs, not a crab ; though other signs, as Sagittarius under the form of a Centaur, evidently of Greek invention, are admitted. The details of the cornice of the portico offer a very satisfactory speci- men of the use of a triglyphic orna- ment. It is common in many of the oldest Pharaonic temples, though ar- ranged in a somewhat different man- ner, and without so remarkable a me- tope as in the present instance. On the frieze, or rather architrave, is a procession to Athor ; and among the ligurcs that compose it are two playing the harp, and another the tambourine. The inscription which records the building of the portico is on the pro- jecting fillet of the cornice, and com- mences with the name of the Emperor Tiberius. To the portico succeeds a Hall of 6 columns (b), with 3 rooms on either side ; the centre one on the right (i), and the last on tlio left (h), having entrances from the outside. Then comes a chamber (o) communicating on the left with two rooms, from the first of which (q) a staircase (r) leads to the roof, and on the right with a passage leading to 3 rooms (n), (m), (l), and another staircase (r). Anoliier chamber (d) follows, with one room (k) on the loft ; and then comes what lias been called the sanctuary (e), with a passage (s) leading round it com- municating with several lateral cham- bers, that in the centre at the end (z) being the one in which the emblem of the divinity was preserved. According to M. Mariette, each of these halls and chambers had its pe- culiar destination. The hall (b) 'wecs n-hew the processions first asacmbled. On its walls is a sort of calendar of the different fgte-days. (c) and (o) were annexes of (b), oontaming altan at which prayers were said as the procession passed on. In. (e) were kept the four sacred boats, which played the principal part in these {ho- cessions. In the centre of each of these boats was a small temple, oon- taining the emblem of the god to which it was sacred. This temple was , covered with a thick white veil (comp. I description of the ark of the Corc- nant). (f) served as a laboratory in which were prepared the oils and ea- i sences used for perfuming the temple and statues, (o) was where the frmts of the soil intended for ofiTerings were collected and consecrated, (h) and (i) were passages through which were ; brought in the offerings firom Upper and Lower Egypt respectively. (J) was the treasure-chamber. All ^ ' scenes on its walls represent the king ! consecrating and offering different ob- jects in gold and silver. In (k) were deposited all the sacred v^tmentB. The chambers (l), (m), (n), (o), (p), and (q), and the small t^ple on the terrace, were especially devoted to the celebration of the festival of the New Year, marked by the appearance of the star Sinus. On the walls of Hoe two staircases (b) are pictnred the details of the processions that took place on this occasion. At the head marches \ the king ; behind him are 13 priests bearing standards surmounted with the emblems of various divinities. The procession first mounted the northern staircase, and stopped at the Utile hypasthral temple above mentioned, each of whose 12 columns was dedi- cated to one of the months of the year; it then descended by the sonthem staircase. The rest oi the temple was more particularly devoted to divine worship. The corridor (s) is covered with the usual scenes, representing the king making offerings to yarioos divinities and receiving some gift in return; each scene being accompanied by an explanatory tert The duunber (t) was dedicated to Ids ; (v) to Osiris TCBtoTOd to life ; (y) to Oairis-Onophris ^anqm^^sig '^ ^ikfiiBA»& -^sadist the fonn of crocodiles; (w) to the same god under the form of Hor-sam-to. In (x) and (y) Athor was especially wor- shipped as the divinity who received and gave fresh life to the sun each day. In (z) the same goddess was adored under her general titles, and in a niche in the wall, which the king alone might enter, was preserved her mysterious emhlem, a great golden sis- trum. The remaining chambers (a), (6), (c), and (\]X '&.€tQl^\ 1 the diBtauco iTOm'^^\iJc^xsa \o^V^ae.^- 446 ROUTE 19. — CAIRO TO THEBES. SectVEL The latitude he gives of that village, as well as his position of Apollino- poUs, require Pampanis to be much farther S. ; and taking the proportion of the distances he gives, it should have stood at Menslieeyeh or Negadeh. (IT.) Balldsefi is well known for its manufacture of earthen jars, which from this town have received the name of BaUdsee^ and are universally used in Egypt for the purpose of carrying water. When full they are of great weight; and one is surprised to find the women able to bear them on their heads, while ^admiring their graceful gait as they walk with them fi^m the river. The same kind of jars are used, like some amphorae of the ancients, for preserving rice, butter, treacle, and oil, and for other domestic purposes : and large rafts made of halldsee jars are frequently floated down the Nile, to be disposed of in the markets of the metropolis. Near Ballaseh should be the site of Contra Goptos, (E.) Xobt, or Soft, the ancient Cop- to8, is a short distance from the river, on the E. bank. In Coptic it was staled Keft^ and in the hieroglyphics Kohthor : — a name recalling the Caphtor of Scripture. It is historically one of the most interesting places in Upper Egypt, for it would seem as if the whole country takes its name from it. It has been ingeniously conjectured that the re- vival of the monarchy under the Xlth Dynasty was much furthered by the wealth derived from trade with Arabia and the Bed Sea ; trade which must have passed through Koft, and is specially described, in an inscription of that period, on the rocks in the valley of Hammamit, in which ** the perfumed gums collected by the desert chiefs " are mentioned : and that, per- haps, in this way Upper Egypt first be- came known to the foreign nations of antiquity — the kings of Upper Egypt, the legitimate line, as distinguished from the Hyksos and the Shemitio in- vadera of Lower Egypt, being called Iri'ngs of Kopt The inhabitants aie called fiabtee, or Gnbtee, a name given by Arabs to all Oopts fhroQ^- out Egypt. If, as has been oonjectured, though on somewhat slender grounds, the religious system of the ancient Egyptians, with its idea (^ one supe- rior and invisible god, manifested through his attributes in other and inferior gods, is not of true Egyptian origin, but came across the ^d Sea from the coasts of Arabia, then it may have been from Koft that the worshipof Amen under his various names and attributes was first introduced into ^STP^' Amen is often referred to in the old writings as *• Hak Punt," the Lord of Punt or Pount, a name an- ciently applied to the " holy land** of Hadramaut ; and the god Elhem is deno- minated ^ of Coptos," in an inscription made at Konosso in the First Oataracfc by King Mentuhotep, of the Xltii Dynasty. It was mis same king who, according to the in8cripti. l^^*^!^!. 448 ROUTP] 10. — CAIRO TO THEBES. SeciVn. Aboolfcda says that the town of Kobt was a wakf, ** entail," of the Shereefa, though it appears rather to have belonged to the Haramdijn of Mecca and Medeeneh. How the inhabi- tants of Coptos came to be Shiites, as he says they were, he does not explain ; and it would be curious to ascertain if this was really tlie case in former times. Contra - Coptos was probably at Dowdide. (E.) At K008, in Coptic Kos-Birhir, is the site of Apolh'nopolis Farva. In the time of Aboolfeda, about a.d. 1344, it was the next city in size and conse- quence to Fostiit, the capital, and the emporium of the Arabian trade ; but it is now reduced to the rank of a small town, and the residence of a ndzir. At a sehifel is a monolith, now converted into a tank, with a hiero- glyphic inscription on the jambs, con- taining the name of Ptolemy Phila- delphus; and a short distance to the W. of the town, near a sheykli's tomb, are some fragments of sandstone, and a few small granite columns. Large sandbanks here obstruct the course of the river for some distance. In the early part of the year they are a favourite resort of all kinds of water- birds. Later on they are planted with melons. (TT.) Negddehy 22 J m., a short dis- tance S. of Koos, and on the opposite banks, is noted for its Coptic and Roman Catholic convents, and, in Aboolfeda's time, for its gardens and sugar-cane. The bend of the river here offers one of the most lovely and picturesque views on the Nile. The town itself is old, and presents a curious and pleasing appearance, owing to the lofty pigeon-towers which crown every house. This effect is of course seen in many villages on the Nile, but in none are the number of pigeon- towers greater, or their battlemented appearance more remarkable, than at Negddeh. The pigeons are kept for the sake of their dung, which ia the only manure used in Egypt, but it is doubtful whether the profit thus ob- tained from them is not more than counterbalanced by the ravages they commit in tho fields. Between Neg^deh and Oamofa, on the edge of the desert, are 4 very dd convents, which as usual are ascribed to the time of Helena. The principal of them is Dayr el-MeWc (of 8t Michael), about 3 miles behind Ne- gadeh. The inolosure and other walls are constructed almost entirely of crude brick, but a few courses of burnt brick appear in one or two of the apses outside. The Church, which is rather a congeries of small churches than a single building, is very carious. It is very low, and all the arches are round. This church is remarkable for the perhaps unique feature of having no wooden screens in any part of it, they being all constructed of BoUd masonry. The screens of the three principal heykels differ likewise from tho ordinary plan, in having two doors with a window between them, instead of a central door between two windows or apertures. The church is BU^ mounted by no less than 28 domes, and has besides a small chamber with a vaulted bsurrel roof. A chamber of larger size in the domestic builduigs has a roof of similar constructioD. This dayr is now unoccupied," but service is celebrated on oco'tain fes- tivals by clergy from the oonvent at Negadeh. The other convents are those oiEs-Sdeeh (of the Cross), near Demfeek, with a very small dL; of Mar G-irgis; and of JIfari BokUe, about 2i m. beyond El-Arabboj the oldest of all, with a church with a semicircular apse, and some remains of frescoes on its domes. (^E.) At Shenhoor, about two hoorrf ride from Koos by the inland road to Luxor, there are extensive mounds of an ancient town, and both a sinall temple and the remains of a Christian church. The temple is worth seeing from the simplicity of the arrange- ments, which will enable the beginna in Egyptian antiquities to imderstand better the plan of some of the vast and complicated edifices he is now approaching. In the sanctuary, which is quite whole, Tiberius, represented as a young man, is seen offering to I Amen-Ra, Horns, and Khem. The \ Tvom^i ol VSaa Vy«VL, Sen-Hor, may be found among the hieroglyphs. On the exterior wall, E. side, a small wreath is cut over the bas-reliefs. It probably marks the grave of an early Christian martyr — an affecting and interesting memorial Only a few pillars of the church are to be seen in front of the temple. The minaret of the mosque is of an early and peculiarly picturesque type, reminding the traveller of an Irish round-tower, "which it exactly resembles. A some- what similar tower occurs at Luxor. ( W^ Between Shenhoor and Thebes the river makes a considerable curve to the E. ; and a little above this bend, just below Thebes, on the W. bank, is Ckimola. It was noted in Aboolfeda's time for its numerous gardens and sugar-cane plantations, which are mentioned also by Norden. At the time of the rebellion of Sheykh Ahmed, the sot-dimnt vizier, in 1824, it was the residence of the well-known Ali Eashef Aboo-Tarbodsh, who de- fended the militarv post there against the insurgents witn great gallantry. {E,) Medamdt stands some distance inlEuid on the E. It is supposed to mark the site of Maximianopolis, a Oreek bishop's see under the Lower Empire ; but neither the extent of its mounds, nor the remains of its temple, justify tiie name that some have ap- l^ied to it of Kamak esh-Shetheeyeh, or, ''the eastern Kamak." It is generally visited from Thebes. Borne write the name Med-amood, as though it were called from amood, **% column;" and place Maximiano- polis on the other bank, at Neg&deh ; while others fix it at Medeenet Haboo, in Thebes, where the Christians had a Tery large ch. until the period of the Aiab invasion. The rains of Medamdt consist of erode-brick houses of a small town, •boat 464 paces square, in the centre of which 18 a sandstone temple ; but of ROUTE 19. — MEDAMOT — LUXOR. 449 this little remains, except part of the portico, apparently, from the style of its architecture, of Ptolemaic date. On the columns may be traced the ovals of Ptolemy Euergetes II., of Lathyrus, and of Auletes, as well as those of l^e Emperor Antoninus Pius ; but a block of granite with the name of Amunoph II. proves the temple to be of much greater antiquity. The pylon before the portico bears the name of Tiberius, but the blocks used ia its construction were taken from some older edifice, erecterl or repaired during the reign of Bameses II. This pylon formed one of several doorways of a crude-brick enclosure which surrounded the temple ; and a short distance before it is a raised platform, with a flight of steps on the inner side, similar to that before the temple at El-£[hdrgeh (in the Great Oasis), at Kamak, and many other places. To the southward of the portico appears to be the site of a reservoir, beyond which a gateway leads through the side of the crude- brick wall to a small ruin, bearing the name of Ptolemy Euergetes I. Be- sides the enclosure of the temple is a wall of similar materials that sur- rounded the whole town, which was of an irregular shape. These ruins, though small, are exceedingly pictur- esque, and the pastoral scenes very beautiful. Even before Gtimdla is reached the ruins of Kamak, the Colossi, and all the temples on the W. bank, come into sight: and in a short time the boat is moored to the E. bank, close under an ancient temple, around whose ruins cluster the mud huts of the modem village of (E,) Luxor, 22 m., the best head- quarters from whicli to visit the wonderful ruins that alone remain to tell of the glories of Thebes, the most famous of old Egyptian cities. [:b0^.—Ft, Ji] *i.^ ( 460 ) SECTION vm. THEBES. ■o 1 Thebbs: — Preliminary Information PAGE 450 pifli Description of Thebes*— its ruins and remains . . . ^ Fbeliminart Information. it 1. The town of Luxor. — 2. Arrangements for visiting the Buins. — 3. Purdifl* 1^ of Antiquities,— 4, Mode of seeing Thebes. 1 ] 1. Thb town op Luxor. Luzor is a large village, increasing both in population and prosperity. It is the chief stopping place on the Nile voyage, and it is the best head- quarters mm which to visit the wonder- ful remains of old Thebes, the most important and interesting ruins in Egypt, after the Pyramids. It is 450 m. from Cairo, and 138 m. from Assooan. Hotel. — ^The qnly one at present is CooVs. The accommodation is not good, and the cuisine poor and un- suit^ for invalids : boara and lodging, 15s. a day, and there are many extras which make it very dear; arrange- ments at a cheaper rate can be made by travellers intending to remain more than a month. Cbfuuls. — There are consolaT af;oTv\A for most ^oiopeari nations. Mustapha Agha acts in that capacity for En^v^ and France. He and his son, AohsM' Effendi, who has spent two yean ^ England, will be found most ooaxtoo* and obliging, and readv to render tt* traveller every poaslble asaistiaA Letters and telegrams may be i^ dressed to Musta^ui Akha, bat it iril probably not be foimaneoeBsaiy ^ trouble him with them. Mediodl Man. — There iB an En|^ physician resident at the hotel dmiiK the winter, and medical aaaistaDoefliii be procured from the steamerSk esAd which is supposed to cany a doctor. Post-Office. — ^The postinasier speib English fluently, as does his assisliat. Letters from Cairo or Alexandria tf* carefully and regularly fiurwarded to the post-ofSces up the riyer for tnr vollers by dahabeeydi. The Tdegr^ 0||lce \& Qm the Medeenel Aboo (W.) ARRANGEMENTS FOR VISITING RUINS. Egy;pt. think it worth while may, to save trouble, leave a number or cipher at the offices in Cairo or Alexandria, as it is often found impossible to trans- literate an English name intelligibly. Cruides and Donkeys are to be had on both banks. According to the con- tract usually made in voyages in a dahabeeyeh with a dragoman, they are provided by him. The price is about Is. a day, with a piastre to the atten- dant boy, but a very good donkey can only be retained at a slightly higher rate. There are different sets of guides and donkeys for each bank, who do not interfere with each other. Shops — Provisions. — There are the usual small Arab shops, and a market is held every day during the winter. Provisions are cheap. Tea, wine, and beer, and sometimes gunpowder can be procured from the Greek trading boate which pass up and down the riyer. Shooting. — Capital quail-shooting may be had on both sides of the river in the month of March, or even earlier. About 4 hrs.' ride inland on the W. hfuok, in the direction of Erment, is a lake, at which good duck-shooting may be had in the winter. It is neces- sary, however, to be provided with a tent, 80 as to spend the night near the lake, and be ready for shooting at daybreak. A visit to the ruins of KamflJ^ by moonlight — a visit which none should neglect to pay if they have the opportunity — may be combined with a night's watching for hyaenas, who oooasionally, but very seldom, are to be seen there. Mooring place for Daliaheeyehs, — The usual mooring-place for dahabeeyehs is to the high bank under the village and temple of Luxor ; but those who prefer to be away from the noise and bustle caused by the presence of several boats, can moor to the island just above, and CEOSS to the mainland, when occasion requires, in the sandal. This little boat should always be alongside, pro- perly cleaned, and with oars, rudder, sail, and everything ready for taking the visitor to the other side of the river, or wherever he may wish to go. Four or £ve sailors, properly dressed. 451 should always be in readiness to go with it. For Kamak a pleasant mooring-place may be found on the voyage down close to the front of the temple. 2. Arrangements for visitinq Euins. In visiting the ruins, unless any wish to the contrary is expressed, the drago- man should always accompany the party himself ; and it should be dis- tinctly understood, when a visit to the W. bank is intended, that the guide has got the requisite number of don- keys ready on the sand-bank imme- diately opposite Luxor. It is usual to spend the whole day away from the boat in seeing the ruins on the W. bank, and provisions must then be taken. Numerous small boys and girls will be found waiting with the donkeys, all anxious to act as attendants on the traveller, and carry a kooUeh full of water for his benefit, and also any books, drawing materials, &c., he may have with hinu In return for this service a small backsheesh will be expected, or rather importu- nately demanded at the end of the day. It is better to select one attendant, and then make him or her keep the others off. Candles, and some magnesium wire should be taken, for seeing the in- teriors of the tombs properly. A new lamp has been invented for burning magnesium, and should, if possible, be brought. Torches should never be used for this purpose, as they blacken the sculptures and utterly spoil them. Many of the private tombs are so blackened by the fires of the peasants who inhabit them, as no longer to be worth visiting; and if torches were used for lighting up the Tombs of the Kings, their smoke would soon blacken and disfigure them. Travellers are ready enough to reproach the ignorant natives for the injury they do to the monuments, though they themselves are often quite as deserving of reproach for their share i\i Wi^fc ^<5sta:v\$^<2?CL,Vst the enco\xragem!&\i\. Wi's^ ^^ y^ ^^'^^ peasants to Vrt^si^ cS. wscaa ^^5^R.^ «^ I Bculptuie,\>^ \i^x^'m^^^. ^V^^ W^s^V 3. PORCHABE OF AMTIQDITIK. Antiquities and abould t Tellerdeairoua of obtaioiDg tinstworth; gpecimena ahonld consult the consulai agents, whoBte good judges. Qeni' things aie to be bald : but there regular manujacture of antiquities, especially acarabiei and basalt images at Luxor ; and same of the imitations are verf clever and difficult to detect. Both at Mustapba Agha's and at the house of Todros, the Gennaa Consal, examples of spurioos " aoticas " ore kept for the warning of the traveller. The most tempting objects, aa a rule, are papyrus rolls. When genuine they should if possible be bouglit, but for- geries are very common, and it is seldom possible t^ tell nliat the roll contains. Should t^e roll be a valu- able one, injudicious attempts at open- ing roay seriously injnie it. Many of the best papyri in existence in Euro- pean museums want the first tines, owing to want of care in opening 4. Mode oe SsEiNa Thkbes. In order that Thebes and its re- mains may produce tlicir best effect, the TV. side should certainly ha first visited ; and last of all Kamal: on tlie E. Those who are on their way up the river to the Ist or 2tid Cataract wUI do weU. if the wind is favourable on their arrival at Luxoi, to stop there no longer Uian may be absolutely necessary for procuring provisions, gel- ting tetters, &c., and leave all the sight-seeiug till they come back on their way down. This coarse has the farther advantage of patting off the visit to Thebes till the days are longer than in December and January. BBS. Sect. Vin. fer, instead of tracking on, to remain till a change in the weatiier occurs, and occupy the titue in doing some of the sights ; they will then reqnim to stay a shorter tjme on their way Some persons will, no doubt, feel disposed to take a more cursory view of the ruina of Thebes than others, being pressed for time, or feeling do very great interest in antiquities. For such three days may be sufflraent for seeing tbe principal objects of in- terest. They may be employed as follows : lit Day. — Cross early to the W. bank, and visit the Colossi, the Mem- Domium, Dayr el-Medeeneh, if time serves, and Mede^net Hiboo. 2n(i Day.— Cross early to the W, bank and visit Koorneh, and then ride along the valley ta Uie Tombs of tlic Kings, Instead of coming back by the some way, climb the path to the top of Qie Libyan Mountain, whence there is a magniScent view over the plain of Thebes, and desoend to Dayr el Bahree, well worth seeing ; thence, if there is time, to the ts of the Assase^f. In this way the traveller who merely ishes to say he has seen Thebes may it through it in three days. Indeed, a ; is abnormally industnous, starting rly, retuming late, and going qoicklj from one thing to anolher, he msy manage to cast a glance at aooe things not iuoluded in the above pro- gramme. But all who can shonM spend at least a week at ThebM. Kamak alone ought to have 2 daj> ven lo it; and, as will be seen fioa e deacriptioa of the vanoos reoiMiia the W. bank, there is plenty then occupy several days. QENBRAL HISTOBY AND Description of Thebes— Its Euins and Bemains. id Historj and Topograpb; d. Tbe 0Dki88].-.V(>ul Mi <. Madenet Hfluo /. Dmrrel-Msdeeneh . i! TomliaoflhiiKtn^ '. a, Qehebal History and Topo- Name, — The onma Thebea rnpted fiom the Tdpe of the Egyptian lan^ge, the Tia>e of the Oqits, vhioh, in the Memphitic dia- lect of Coptic, iB pronounced Tbaba, eMilj' converted into 9tiBcu, or Thebea. Some writers have confined tbemselvi^a to B closer imitation of the Egyptian word; and Pliny and Javenal have both adopted Tbebe, in the singular number, aa the name of this city. In bieroglfphicB it ia 'written Ap, Ape, OT with the feminine article T-dpi, the meanioK of which appeaJB to Ims " the haad," Thebes being the capital of the omatrj. Bn( M. Mariette ie dis- tinotly of opinion that the Egjptian W€rd Tema, the city, was by a trans- litatktiaD of M and B, which is not ttncanmon, turned into Teba, whence tha Greek form. Thebes was also called IHoepoUi Magna, which answers to Ameiiei, "the Abode of Amen," the Bgyptino Jopiter. The ci^ stood partly on the E, partly on the W. of the Nile; tiiaa^h the name Tap^ (Thebes) was •pplud to the whole city on either buk. The western division had the dtitinctive appellation of Pathyrii, or, •• Ptolemy writes it, Tathyris, being under the pecoliar protection of Athor, who is called "the President rf the West;" for though Amen (or '" ra) waa the obis' deity wor- ■lUjipad Ihavr m "eJJ i quarters of Dioapotis, Athor bad a peculiar claim over the Necropolis beneath the weetem mountain, where she was fabulously reported to receive the setting aim into her arms. Pa- thyria was Fatkros i though Jeremiah (iliv. 15) probably alludes to another city of Athor in the Delta. Foundation.— The period of its foundation still remaina, like that of Memphis, the capital of Lower Egypt, enveloped in that obscurity which is the fate of all the most ancient cities ; but from the names of the oldest kings seen about Memphis, it is evi- dent that Thebea waa not so ancient as the capital of Lower Egypt ; sad tbere is even reason to suppose that Hermontbis (now Erment) was older than Thebes, of which we first hear under the later kinEs of the Xlth Dynasty. Site and Extent. — In the time of the Ptolemica the western division of the city, or, "the Libyan suburb," WHS divided into different quarters, aa the Hemnouia (or Memnoneia): and even the tombs were portioned off into districts, attached to the quarters of the town. Tbua we find that Thy- nabunum, where the priests of Osiris were buried, belonged to and stood within the limits of the Menmonia. It ia probable that in late times, when the city and its territory were divvi^A. into 2 separate nomw, ttia "C^-rtAoa trev the westiitn bant \«vii% ms^ki vJie 454 THEBES. Sect. VHL ** Pathyritic ; " and Thebes being after- wards broken up into several small detached towns, which was the case even in Strabo's time, Pathyris became a distinct city. Ancient authors do not agree as to the extent of this city, which, accord- ing to Strabo, was 80 stadia in length, while Diodorus allows the circuit to have been only 140 — a disparity which may be partially reconciled by sup- posing that the latter speaks of it when still an infant city. The epithet HecatompyloSt applied to it by Homer, has generally been thought to refer to the 100 gates of its wall of circuit ; but this difficulty is happily solved by an observation of Diodorus, that many suppose them " to have been the pro- pylsBa of the temples," and that this metaphorical expression rather implies a plurality than a definite number. Were it not so, the reader might be surprised to learn that this 100-gated city was never enclosed by a wall — a fact fully proved by the non-existence of the least vestige of it; for, even allowing it to have been of crude brick, it would, from its great thick- ness, have survived the ravages of time, equally with those of similar materials of the early epoch of the third Thothmes. Or, supposing it to have been destroyed by the waters of the inundation, and buried by the alluvial deposit, in those parts which stood on the cultivated land, the rocky and uninundated acclivity of the hdger would at least have retained some traces of its former existence, even were it razed to the ground. It is not alone from the authority of ancient writers that the splendour and power of this city (which had the reputation of furnishing 20,000 armed chariots from its vicinity) are to be estimated; but the extent of the Egyptian conquests adding continu- ally to the riches of the metropolis, the magnificence of the edifices which adorned it, the luxe of the individuals who inhabited it, the spoil taken thence by the Persians, and the gold and silver collected after the burning of the city, amply testify the innneTiBQ wealth ofEgyptiaii Thebes. The immense army which a force of 20,000 chariots would imply was not of course raised at Thebes alone, which Diodorus seems to admit ; but he also miscalculates the number when he computes the chariots at 20.000 and reckons only 100 stables and 200 horses in each, which, allowing 2 to each car, will only supply half the number. Moreover, he places these stables between Thebes and Memphis. The principal part of the city, pro- perly so called, lay on the E. bank; that on the opposite side, which con- tained the quarter of the Memnonia, and the whole of its extensive Necro- polis, bore the name of the Libyan suburb. It is not certain whether or no cultivated spots of land were in early times admitted amidst the houses ; but it appears from the sculptures of the tombs that the principal inhabit- ants had extensive gardens attached to their mansions, independent of their villas and farms outside the city; and in the reigns of the Ptole- mies several parcels of land were sold and let within the interior of the Libyan suburb. ** Alone of the cities of Egypt, the situation of Thebes is as beautiful by nature as by art. The monotony of the two mountain ranges, Libyan and Arabian, for the first time assumes a new and varied character. They each retire from the river, forming a circle round the wide green plain; the western rising into a bolder and more massive barrier, and enclosing the plain at its northern extremity as by a • natural bulwark ; the eastern, further withdrawn, but acting the same part to. the view of Thebes as the Argolic mountains to the plain of Athens, or the Alban hills to Home — a varied and bolder chain, rising and falling in almost Grecian outlme, though cast in the conical form which marks the hills of Nubia farther south, and which, perhaps, suggested the Pyramids. Within the circle of these two ranges, thus peculiarly its own, stretches the green plain on each side of the river to an unusual extent; and on each «id!B thft river, in this respect unlike ^om^XiaA, \raL\. 'SSKi^ ^<& ^ceat city V TEMPLE OP KOORNEH. EgypL farther E. on the Euphrates — ^like the cities of Northern Europe on their lesser streams — spreads the city of Thebes, with the Nile for its mighty thoroughfare. 'Art thou better than No-Amon that was situated by ^* the river of the Nile" — that had the 'waters round about it — whose rampart was ** the sealike stream," and whose wall was " the sealike stream." * Na- hum iii 8.** — A, P. Stanley, Decline and Fall. — The greatest step towards the decline and fall of this city was the preference given to Lower Egypt (but not to Memphis, as Dio- dorus supposes); and the removal of the seat of government to Tanis and Bubastis, and subsequently to Sais and Alexandria, proved as disastrous to the welfare, as the Persian inva- sion to the splendour, of the capital of Upper Egypt Commercial wealth, on the accession of the Ptolemies, began to flow through other channels ; and Ethiopia no longer contributed to the revenues of Thefes. And its sub- sequent destruction, after a 3 years' siege, by Ptolemy Lathyrus, struck a deathblow to the weKare and exist- ence of this capital, which was thence- forth scarcely deemed an Egyptian city. Some few repairs were, how- ever, made to its dilapidated temples by Euergetes II. and some of the later Ptolemies; but it remained de- populated, and at the time of Strabo's visit it was already divided into small detached villages. The most ancient remains now exist- iBg at Thebes are imquestionably in the great temple of Kamak, the largest and most splendid ruin of which perhaps either ancient or mo- dem times can boast, being the work of a number of successive monarcbs, each anxious to surpass his prede- cessor by increasing the dimensions and proportions of the part he added. It is this fact which enables us to account for the diminutive size of the older parts of this extensive building. And to their comparatively limitS scale, offering greater facility, as their ricmitjr to the sanotnsary greater temp- tatian, to an invading enemy to de- 455 stroy them, added to their remote antiquity, are to be attributed their dilapidated state, and the total dis- appearance of the sculptures executed during the reigns of the Pharaohs, who preceded Osirtasen I. of the XTTth Dynasty, the earliest monarch whose name exists on the monuments of Eastern Thebes. There are, however, the vestiges of earlier times on the W. bank, especially at I>rah Aboo '1- Neggah. h. EOOBNEH. Temple of Eoomeh. — The northern- most ruin on the W. bank, worthy of notice, is the small temple at Old Koomeh, or Goorua, dedicated to the memory and worship of his father, Eameses I., by Sethi I., and completed by his son Eameses II., the supposed Sesostris of the Greeks. It is some- times called Kasr er-Bubayh. Plan. — Its. plan ofTers the usual symmetrophobia of Egyptian monu- ments, but it presents a marked de- viation from the ordinary distribution of the parts. The entrance leads through a pylon, bearing, in addition to the name of the founder, that of Bameses III., beyond which is a dromos of 128 ft., whose mutilated sphinxes are scarcely traceable amidst the mounds and ruins of Arab hovels. A second pylon terminates this, and commences a second dromos of nearly similar length, extending to tiie colon- nade or corridor in front of the temple, whose columns, of one of the oldest Egyptian orders, are crowned by an abacus, which appears to unite the stalks of water-plants that compose the shaft and capital. Of the inter- columniations of these 10 columns 3 only agree in breadth, and a similar discrepancy is observed in the door- ways which form the 3 entrances to the building. The temple itself pre- sents a central hall about 57 ft. in length, supported by 6 columns, having on either side 3 small chambers, one of which leads to a lateral hall, and the opposite one to Oi -^^^ea:^ ^sc^.^ open coTul oii \)aa"Ek. «v.\<^. ^^^rs^ *^sia uppeT euieL ol \\ift \«3\ ^vso^ ^ "^^ \ 456 THEBES. Sect. vm. leads to a large room, supported by 4 square pillars, beyond which was the sanctuary itself: but the N. end of this temple is in too dilapidated a state to enable us to make an accurate restoration of its innermost chambers. The lateral hall on the W., which possibly belonged to the palace of the king, U supported by 2 columns, and leads to 3 other rooms, behind which are the vestiges of other apartments ; and on the E. side, besides a large hypsBthral court, were several similar chambers, extending also to the north- em extremity of its precincts. Sculptures. — On the architrave over the corridor is the dedication of Eameses II., to whom, in his character of the Sun, under the symbolic form of a hawk, Amen-ra is presenting the emblem of life. Therein, after the usual titles of the king, we are told that '* Kameses, the beloved of Amen, has dedicated this work to his father, Amen-ra, king of the gods, having made additions for him to the temple of his father the king (fostered by Ka and Truth), the Son of the Sun (Sethi)." The whole of this part of the building bears the name of Eameses II., though his father is represented in some of the sculptures as taking part in the religious ceremonies, and assisting in making offerings to the deities of the temple he had founded. " The temple of Goomah was, so to speak, haunted by the memory of Eameses I. It was the memory of this king that the faithful came to evoke on certain days prescribed by the rite. The mummy itself reposed afar off, deep down in the hypogeum of Bab el-Mo- look, just as in the mastabas of the ancient empire, the mummy reposed at the bottom of an inaccessible well." — Mariette, On the N.W. side of the loner wall of this corridor, the arks or shrines of queen Ames-Nofriare (or T-Nofriare), and of Sethi, are borne each by 12 priests, in the " procession of shrines," attended by a fan-bearer and high- pnest to the god of the temple ; and in a small tablet, added at a '\atcT period, the king Ptah-se-Ptah represented in presence of Amen-ra, Am^Nofriar€, Sethi, and Bimieees n., receiving the emblems of royal power from the hands of the deity. The most interesting sculptures are in the lateral hall on the W. side, which, with the 3 chambers behind it, king Sethi dedicated to his father Eameses I. ; but dying before the completion of the hall, his son Ba- rneses II. added the sculptures that cover the interior and corridor in front of it. Those within the front wall, on the rt. hand entering the door, represent, in the lower compart- ment, king Eameses II. introduced by Mandoo to Amen-ra, behind whom stands his grandfather Barneses I., bearing the emblems of Osiris. Over him we read : " The good Grod, Lord of the world ; son of the Sun, lord of the powerful, Eameses deceased, esteemed by the great God, Lord of Abydus (i.e. Osiris).** Thoth. the god of letters, notes off the years of the panegyrics of the king on a pahn- branch, the symbol of a year. In the compartment above this he is intro- duced to the deity by Atmoo (Atum), and by Mandoo (Munt), who, present- ing him with the emblem of life, says, " I have accompanied you in order that you may dedicate the temple to your father Amen-ra." In the compart- ment over the door, 2 figures of Ea- meses I., seated in sacred shriaeSi receive the offerings or liturgies of his grandson, one wearing the crown of the upper, the other tiiat of the lower country. On the other side of the door, the king is offering to Amen- ra, Khonso, and Eameses I. ; and ot^ the side walls King Sethi also par' takes of similar honours. In the centre chamber Sethi o^^ ciates before the statue of his feithe^ placed in a shrine, like that befoir^ mentioned; from which it is evidet^ that Eameses II. continued the ded^ cations to the first Eameses, whic!P^ had been commenced by his father, a^^ the hieroglyphics themselves stat^ All the lateral chambers and th^ hypsBthral court are of Eameses II. ST \ and 0X1 \.Vi^ ^'B.mba of the side-doors ic^ iB \t\ie gce».\> \!t&)\ \k<^ \kasEQi^ q^ W mC^ Egypt. Ptahmen, or Menepiah, was added in the succeeding reign. Qneen Ames- Nofriar^ occurs again in the court; and on the outside of the N.E. comer, and on the fragment of a wall on the other (S.W.) tside, is an Ethiopian ox and Capricorn, which are hrought hy some of the minor priests for the service of the temple. Little else is deserving of notice in this ruin, if we except the statue and shrine of Amen- ra; whose door the king has just Gpened, previous to his performing ** the prescribed ceremonies " in honour of the deity. In the hieroglyphics, though much defaced, we read, *' Be- holdy I open . . . my father Amen-ra." e. The Bambseum ob Memnonium. On leaving the temple of Koomeh, follow the edge of the cultivated ind, passing near several stone frag- ments and remains of crude-brick walls. On the right hand are the tombfl of Drah Aboo '1-Neggah, the A EBOO fl do f, and Sheykh Abd el-Koor- neh. A short distance after passing tJiifl last, you arrive at a collection of important ruins, which stand well out wkt the foot of the neighbouring moun- 'tains. These are the remains of the BameMom or Temple of Bameses 11., erroneously called the Memnonium, «nd the tomb of Osymandyas. There xb, however, reason to suppose that it ^as the Memnonium of Strabo, and ^hat the title of Miamum, attached -to the name of Bameses II., being csormpted by the Greeks into Memnon, \yecame the origin of the word Mem- Xionium or Memnonia. Plan. — ^For symmetry of architec- '^ure and elegance of sculpture the ^Henmonium may vie with any other ^^^C^ptian monument. No traces are "Visible of the dromos that probably before the pyramidal towers THE RAMESEUM. 457 i), which form the facade of its a (o o)— a court whose breadtii if 180 ft, exceeding the length by 18 yards, was reduced to a B jntt proportion by the introduc- '^joii of a doable avenue of columns on kitber side^ extending from the towers the N. wall. In this area, on the of a flight of Btepa leading to the next court, was a stupendous Syenite Statue of Barneses n. (d), seated on a throne, in the usual attitude of Egyp- tian figures, the hands resting on lus knees, indicative of that tranquillity which he had returned to enjoy in Egypt after the fatigues of victory. But the hand of the destroyer has nm o o •• ww^. 0p€0 PLAN OF TBE RAUBSEUU, OR MEMKOKrcU. A A, Towers of Propylon. b, Entrance, c c. Area, d. Broken granite statue of liameses II. E, Entrance, between f f, the Pylon, o g, 2nd Area, with a h, Osiride culunms. r and j. Traces of Sculpture, k, Sculptures represen ling the wars of Kameses II. l and m, Sphinxe». N, o, p, Entrances into q, The grand halL b, s, Pedestals for statues, t, Sculptured battle scenes, u. Chamber with a8trouo\&.V(».\. «Q(c^«isX on ceiUng. v, AnoVYun 0Raxc\ya\,^\>5a.'« ^'Jk Sculptured eceneib. i , 0\.\«t v\l«xE^QfeT^ 458 THEBES. Sect. vm. levelled this montimcnt of Egyptian grandeur, whose colossal fragmeuts lie scattered round the pedestal ; and its shivered throne evinces the force used for its destruction. K it is a matter of surprise how the Egyptians could transport and erect a mass of such dimensions, the means employed for its ruin are scarcely less wonderful; nor should we hesitate to account for the shattered appearance of the lower part by attributing it to the explosive force of powder, had that composition been known at the sup- posed period of its destruction. But is this early destruction certain ? The throne and legs are completely de- stroyed, and reduced to comparatively small fragments, while the upper part, broken at the waist, is merely thrown back upon the ground, and lies in that position which was the consequence of its fall; nor are there any marks of the wedge or other instrument which should have been employed for reducing those fragments to the state in which they now appear. The fissures seen across the head and in the pedestal are the work of a later period, when some of the pieces were cut for millstones by the Arabs. To say that this is the largest statue in Egypt will convey no idea of the gigantic size or enormous weight of a mass which, from an approximate calculation, exceeded, when entire, nearly three times the solid contents of the great obelisk of Kamak, and weighed over 1000 tons. No building in Thebes corresponds exactly with the description given of the tomb of Osymandyas by HecatsBus. Diodorus, who quotes his work, gives the dimensions of the first or outer court, 2 plethra;(181 ft. Sin. Eng.), agreeing very nearly with the breadth, but not with the length, of that now before us; but the succeeding court, of 4 plethra, neither agrees with this, nor can agree with tlmt of any other Egyptian edifice, since the plan of an Egyptian building invariably requires a diminution, but no increase, of di- mensions, from the entrance to the inner chambers; and while the body of the temple, behind the poitico, xe- tained one uniform breadth, the areas in front, and frequently the portico itself, exceeded the inner por- tion of it by their projecting sides. The peristyle and ** columns in the form of living beings," roofed colon- nade, sitting statues, and triple en- trance to a chamber supported by columns, agree well with the approach to the great hall of this temple : and the largest statue in Egypt can only be in the building before ua. Yet the sculptures to which he alludes remind us rather of those of Medeenet Haboo ; and it is possible that either HecatsBus or Diodorus may have united or confounded the details of the two edifices. The second area (qg) is about 140 ft. by 170, having on the S. and N. sides a row of Osiride pillars (hh). connected with eacsh other by two lateral corridors of circular columns, Three flights of steps lead to the northern corridor (which may be called the portico), behind the Osiride pillars, the centre one having on each side a black granite statue of Bameses H., the base of whose throne is cut to fit the talus of the ascent. Behind the columns of the northern corridor, and on either side of the central door of the great hall, is a limestone pedestal, which, to judge from the space left in the sculptures, must have once supported the sitting figure of a lion, or perhaps a statue of the king. Three entrances (nop) open into the grand hdXL (q), each with a sculptured doorway of black granite : and between the two first columns of the central avenue, two pedestals (b s) supported (one on either side) two other statues of the king- Twelve massive columns, 32 ft. 6 io. high, without the abacus, and 21 ft* ' 3 in. circumference, form a double line along the centre of this hall, and 18 of smaller dimensions v 17 ft. 8 in. cii* cumference), to the rt and 1., com- plete the total of the 48, which supported its solid roof studded with stars on an azure ground. To the hall, which measures 100 ft. by 133, succeeded 3 central (u Y z) and 6 lateral \ cTaoEDifoew (t ^ ^ ^ 1 V^, mdioatiiig by a Egypt. small flight of steps the gradual ascent of the rock on which this edifice is constructed. Of 9, 2 only (u V.) of the central apartments now remain, each supported hy 8 columns, and each measuring ahout 30 ft. by 55 ; but the vestiges of their walls, and the appearance of the rock, which has been levelled to form an area around the exterior of the building, point out their original extent. Scid'ptures, — The sculptures, much more interesting than the archi- tectural details, have suffered much more from the hand of the destroyer : and of the many curious battle- scenes which adorned its walls, 4 only now remain; though the traces of another may be perceived behind the granite colossus on the N. face of the wall. On the N. face of the eastern pyra- midal tower or propylon (a) is repre- sented the capture of several towns from an Asiatic enemy, called in the hieroglyphics the Ehetas^ whose chiefs are led in bonds by the victorious Egyptians towards their camp. Several of their towns are introduced into the picture, each bearing its name in hieroglyphic characters, which state them to have been taken in the 4th year of king Barneses II. This im- portant fact satisfactorily shows that the early part of the reigns of their most illustrious monarchs was em- ployed in extending their conquests abrocul, which they returned to com- memorate on the temples and palaces their captives assisted in constructing. And, claiming the enjoyment of that tranquillity their arms had secured, they employed the remainder of their reigns in embellishing their capital, and in promoting the internal prospe- rity of the country. Among early nations cruelty, or at least harsh con- duct to an enemy, has ever been looked upon as the attribute of a conqueror; and the power of a mo- narch, or the valour of a nation, was estimated by the inexorability of their character. Thus Achilles is to be re- presented as '^Inexorabilis, acer, jura neget eibi nata ; ** and the Egyptian acupton appear to have intended to THE RAMESEUM SCULPTURES. 459 convey the same idea to the spectator ; confirming a remark of Gibbon, that ** conquerors and poets of every age have felt the truth of a system which derives the sublime from the principle of terror." In the scene before us, an insolent soldier pulls the beard of his helpless captive, while others wantonly beat a suppliant ; and the display of this principle is the more striMng, as the Egyptians on other occasions have recorded their humane treatment of an enemy in distress. Beyond these is a corps of infantry in close array, flanked by a strong body of chariots; and a camp, indicated by a rampart of Egyptian shields, with a wicker gate- way, guarded by four companies of sentries, who are on duty in the inner side, forms the most interesting object in the picture. Here the booty ts^en from the enemy is collected; oxen, chariots, plaustra, horses, asses, sacks of gold, represent the confusion inci- dent after a battle ; and the richness of the spoil is expressed by the weight of a bag of gold, under which an ass is about to fall. One chief is receiving the salutation of a foot-soldier; an- other, seated amidst the spoil, strings his bow; and a sutler suspends a water-skin on a pole he has fixed in the ground. Below this a body of infantry marches homewards ; and be- yond them the king, attended by his fan-bearers, holds forth his hand to receive the homage of the priests and principal persons, who approach his throne to congratuJate his return. His charioteer is also in attendance, and the high-spirited horses of his car are with difficulty restrained by three grooms who hold them. Two captives below this are doomed to be beaten by four Egyptian soldiers ; while they in vain, with outstretched hands, im- plore the clemency of their heedless conqueror. Thn sculptures on the gateway refer to the panegyrics, or assemblies, of the king, to whom different divinities are said to " give life and power " (or •* pure life "). Over this gate passes a staircase, leading to tha ^ks^ ^^ '^^ \ exteiiox oi ^"a^. «v^^. 460 THEBES. SectVm. Upon the W. tower is represented a battle, in which the king discharges his arrows on the broken lines and flying chariots of the enemy ; and his figure and car are again introduced, on the upper part, over the smaller sculptures. In a small compartment beyond these, which is formed by the end of the corridor of the area, he stands armed with a battle-axe, about to slay the captives he holds beneath him, who, in the hieroglyphics above, are called " the chiefs of the foreign countries." In the next compartment, still wesuring his helmet, he approaches the temple attended by his sons, whose names are enumerated, the fan-bearers being Ameni-Khepskhef,Bameses, and PraMamentef, followed by the others to the number in all of 23, of whom the 13th is Meneptah, his successor ; and to this the hieroglyphics before him allude. On the N. face of the S.E. wall of the 2nd Area (g g), is another histori- cal subject (k), representing Ra- meses II. pursuing an enemy, whose numerous chariots, flying over the plain, endeavour to regain the river, and seek shelter under the fortified walls of their city, which is called in the accompanying hieroglyphs Ma- pu-li, a fort of the Khetas. And so forcibly do the details of tliis picture call to mind the battles of the Iliad, that some of them might serve as illustrations to that poem. In order to check the approach of the Egyptians, the enemy has crossed the river, whose stream, divided into a double fosse, surrounded the towered walls of their fortified city, and opposed their ad- vance by a considerable body of chariots ; while a large reserve of in- fantry, having crossed the bridges, is posted on the other bank, to cover the retreat or second their advance; but, routed by the Egyptians, they are forced to throw themselves back upon the town, and many, in recrossing the river, are either carried away by the stream, or fall under the arrows of the invaders. Those who have suc- ceeded in reaching the opposite bank are rescued by their friends, who, cfrafvn up in threo phalanxes ^de- scribed in the liietoglyphics as 8000 strong), witness the defeat of their comr^es, and the flight of the re- mainder of their chariots. Smne carry to the rear the lifeless corpse of their chief, who has been drowned in |the river, and in vain endeavour to restore life, by holding his head downwards to expel the water ; and others implore the clemency of the victor, and ac- knowledge him their conqueror and lord. As in the sculpture on the pro- pylon, the enemy are called Khetas, a name probably given to some con- federation of Asiatic tribes. The scene is probably laid in Syria, and the river is the Orontes. The scene in which Rameses is represented charging the enemy by himself, and forcing them to recross the river, is tlie subject of a long historical poem, carved on one of the exterior walls of Kamak, and on the N. face of the pylon of the temple of Luxor. It is known as the Poem of Pentaoor, and has been translated by M. de Rouge'; and into English by Mr. Lushiagton (* Records of the Past,' ii. 65). Above these battle-scenes is a pro- cession of priests, bearing the figures of the Theban ancestors of Rameses II. The first of these is Menes ; then a king of the Xlth Dynasty ; and after him those of the XVIIIth Dynasty. The intermediate monarchs are omitted. The remaining subjects are similar to those in the coronation of the kiug at Medeenet Hdboo, where the flight of the four carrier-pigeons ; the king cutting ears of com, afterwards oflfered to the god of generation ; the queen; the sacred bull ; and the figures of bis ancestors, placed before the god, are more easily traced from the greater preservation of that bidlding. Beyond the W. staircase of the N. corridor, the king kneels before Amen-ra, Maut, and Khons or Ehonso ; Thoth notes on his palm«branch the years of the panegyries ; and the Gods Mandoo and Atmoo introduce Ra- meses into the presence of that triad of deities. OiY the other side, forming the S. \ ^aW ol V)ci<& Great HoiU. (^ \% «. small Egypt. but interefltiDg battle (t), where the use of the ladder and of the testudo throws considerable light on the mode of war- fare at that early period. The town, situated on a lofty rock, is obstinately defended, and many are hurled head- long from its walls by the spears, arrows, and stones of the besieged: they, however, on the nearer approach of the Egyptian king, are obliged to sue for peace, and send heralds with presents to deprecate his fury ; while his infantry, commanded by his sons, are putting to the sword the routed enemy they have overtaken beneath the walls, where they had in vain looked for refuge, the gates being already beset by Egyptian troops. One of the architraves in the Great Hall presents a long inscription, pur- porting that Amenmai Barneses has made the sculptures (or the work) for his father Amen-ra, king of the gods, and that he has erected the hall of hewn stone, good and bard blocks, supported by fine columns (alluding, from their form, to those of the central colonnade) in addition to (the side) columtls (being similar to those of the lateral colonnades). At the upper end of this hall, on the north-west wall, the king receives the falchion and sceptres from Amen-ra, who is attended by the goddess Maut ; and in the hieroglyphics mention is made of this paUce of Barneses, of which the deity is said to be the guar- dian. We also learn from them that the king is to smite the heads of his foreign enemies with the former, and with the latter to defend or rule his country, Egypt. On the corresponding wall he receives the emblems of life and power from Amen-ra, attended by Khons, in the presence of the Uon- headed goddess. Below these com- partment, on either wall, is a proces- sion of the twenty-three sous of the kine ; and on the west comer are three of his daughters, but without their names. On the ceiling of the next chamber (u) is an astronomical subject. On the upper side of it are uie twelve Egyptifui months, and at the end of Ifoun^ a space aeema to be left for the THE RAMESEUM — OTIIKR RUINS. 461 five days of the epact, opposite which is the rising of the Dog-star, under the figure of Isis-Sothis. In the hiero- glyphics of the border of this picture, mention is made of the columns and of the building of this chamber with ** hard stone,*' where apparently were deposited the " books of Thoth." On the walls are sculptured sacred arks, borne in procession by the priests ; and at the base of the door leading to the next apartment is an inscription, pur- porting that the king had dedicated it to Amen, and mention seems to be made of its being beautified with gold and precious ornaments. The door itself was of two folds, turning on bronze pins, which moved in circular grooves of the same metal, since re- moved from the stones in which they were fixed. On the N. wall of the next and last room that now remains, the king is making offerings and burning in- cense, on one side to Ptah and the lion-headed goddess ; on the other to Ba. (the sun), whose figure is gone. Large tablets before him mention the offerings he has made to different deities. It has been conjectured that Bameses IL was actually buried in this temple. The tomb in the Bab el- Molook which bears his name seems to have been abandoned incomplete. About 120 ft. to the E. of the outer court and the front towers of the Memnonium is the tank cased with stone usually attached to the Egyptian temples. Other Ruins. — In the immediate vi- cinity of the Bameseum are the ves- tiges of another sandstone building^ the bases of whose columns scarcely appear above the ground ; and between these two ruins are several pits, of a later epoch, used for tombs by persons of an inferior class. There are also some remains to the N. of the Memnonium built of crude bricks, on which the names of Amen- noo-het and Thothmes I. are associated within one common cartouche, and others have the names of Thothixsfii&'UL. and ot Xsxixmsi^ W. 462 THEBES. Sect-Vm. other remains of masonry; and that edifice is surrounded on three sides by crude-brick vaults, which appear to have been used for habitation s. They are probably of early Christian time. Other vestiges of sandstone remains are traced on both sides of these brick galleries ; and a short distance to the W. are crude-brick towers and walls, enclosing the shattered remains of a sandstone edifice, which, to judge from the stamp on the bricks tiiemselves, was erected during the reign of Thothmes III. The total ruin of these buildings may be accounted for from the smallness of their size, the larger ones being merely defaced or partially demolished, owing to the great labour and time required for their entire destructiou. Below the squared scarp of the rock to the W. of this are other traces of sandstone buildings ; and at the S. lie tvDO broken Statues of Amunoph III. which once faced towards the palace of Eameses II. They stood in the usual attitude of Egyptian statues, the left leg placed forward and the arms fixed to the side. Their total height was about 35 ft. They either belonged to an avenue leading to the temple at Kom el Hettdn, or to the edifice at a short distance beyond them, which was erected by the same Amunoph, as we learn from the sculp- tures on its fellen walls. These con- sisted partly of limestone and partly of sandstone ; and, to judge from the execution of the sculptures and the elegance of the statues once standing within its precincts, it was a building of no mean pretensions. Two of its bitting colossi represented Amunoph III. ; tlie others, Meneptah, the son and successor of Bameses II. These last were apparently standing statues in pairs, two formed of one block, the hand of one i-esting on the shoulder of the other ; but their mutilated con- dition prevents our ascertaining their exact form, or the other persons repre- sented in tliese groups. But an idea may be given of their colossal size by the breadth across the shoulders, wJii'ch 18 5 ft 3 in. : and tliougb. tUo ^iUing statues of Amunoph were imxch. smaller, their total height oould not have been less than 10 ft. About 700 ft. to the S. of these ruins is the K(ym, el Hettan, or the " Mound of Sandstone," which marks the site of another temple of Amunoph ID.; and, to judge from the little that re- mains, it must have held a conspicucms rank among the finest monuments of Thebes. iJl that now exists of the interior are the bases of its coluiims, some broken statues, and Syenite sphinxes of the king, with several lion-headed figures of black granite. About 200 ft. from the N. corner of these ruins are granite statues of the asp-headed goddess and another deity, formed of one block, in very high relief. In front' of the door are two large tablets (stelae) of gritstone, with the usuaL circular summits, in the form of Egyptian shields, on which are sculptured long insoriptioais, and the figures of the king and queen, to whom Amen-ra and Ptah-Sokari pre- sent the emblems of life. Beyond these a long dromos of 1100 ft extends to the two sitting colossi, which, seated majestically above the plain, seem to assert the grandeur of ancient Thebes. Other colossi of nearly similar di- mensions once stood between these and the tablets before mentioned ; and the fragments of two of them, fallen pro- strate in the dromos, are now alone visible above the heightened level of the alluvial soil. d. The Colossi — the Vocal Memnon. These two gigantic statues, com- monly called " the Colossi" both re- present Amunoph III., and no doubt stood at the entrance of the temple of that monarch, already mentioned, and of which hardly anything remains. They were of a coarse hard gritstone mixed with chalcedonies, and were both originally monolitlis. They stood on pedestals of the same material, which in their turn rested on a built aa.Tidatone foundation. The height of t\iv^ ^\.w.Qk^ Q^QXkS^ S& «^\iJ(»S(^ CL ; bat \ Egy^t. THE COLOSSI — THE VOCAL MEMNON. 463 -with the pedestals they must have stood more than 60 ft. above the sor- Tounding plain. At the time they were erected, the ground immediately surrounding them was desert. The soil, which now rises to a height of about 7 ft. above their base, has been de- posited by the Nile in the course of the successive years which have since elapsed. During the inundation they are surrounded by water. The northernmost oi the two statues is known as the CoIosbus of Memnon, or the Yooal Statue of Memnon ; and was once the wonder of the ancients, owing to the sound which it was said to utter every morning at the rising of the sun. Like the other, it was a monolith; but it is conjectured to have been partially thrown dovm by the eejrthquake of B.C. 27, to which Euse- bius attributes the destruction of so many of the monuments of Thebes. Some authors, however, attribute its mutilation to Cambyses, and others to Ptolemy Lathyrus. The repairs, effected by means of blocks of sand- stone placed horizontally in five layers, and forming the body, head, and upper part of the arms, were made in the rei^ of Septimius Severus. No record exists of the sound which made the statue so famous having been beard while it was entire. Stra- bo, who visited it with ^lius Gallus, the governor of Egypt, speaks of the "upper part** having been "broken and hurled down," as he was told, **by the shock of an earthquake," and says that he heard the sound, but could **not aflfirm whether it pro- ceeded from the pedestal or from the statue itself, or even from some of those who stood near its base ;" and it ap- pears, from his not mentioning the name of Memnon, that it was not yet supposed to be the statue of that douDtful personage. But it was not long before the Roman visitors as- cribed it to the " Son of Tithonus," and a multitude of inscriptions, the earliest in the reign of Nero, and the most recent in the reign of Septimius Bevems, testify to his miraculous powers, and the credulity of the writers. Pliny calls it the statue of Memnon, and Juvenal thus refers to it : — <* Diniidio magicffi resonant ubi Memnone chordas.'* Various opinions exist among modem critics as to whether the sound this statue was sa&d to emit, and which is described as resembling either the breaking of a harp-string or the ring of metal, was the result of a natural phenomenon or of priestly craft. Some say that the action of the rising sun upon the cracks in the stone moist with dew caused the peculiar sound produced; while others declare that it was a trick of the priests, one of whom hid himself in t^e statue, and struck a metaUic-sounding stone there concealed. The chief arguments in favour of this last view are, that such a stone still exists in the lap of the statue, with a recess cut in the block immediately behind it, capable of holding a person completely screened from view below, and, above all, the suspicious circumstance that the sound was heard twice or thrice by important personages, like the Emperor Hadrian, — " Kaifmv kui rpirov axov iri** rejoicing (at the presence of the emperor), it " uttered a sound a third time," — while ordinary people only heard it once, and that sometimes not until after two or three visits. The fact however of there being no record of the sounds having been heard when the statue was entire or after it was repaired, is very much in favour of their having been produced by the action of the hot sun on the cracks in the cold stone, similar phenomena being by no means uncommon. The form of these colossi resembles that mentioned by Diodorus in the tomb of Osymandyas, in which the figures of the daughter and mother of the king stood on either side of the legs of the larger central statue, the length of whose foot exceeded 7 cubits, or 3^ yards. Such indeed is the size of their feet; and on either side stand, attached to the throiiA tV\^ wife and roio^^iet q.1 Ktdnsnss^^ N». "464 THEBES. Sect. vm. a smaller figure of his queen are also seen between his feet. The proportions of the colossi are about the same as of the granite sta- tue of Barneses II.; but they are inferior in the weight and hardness of their materials. They measure about 18 ft. 8 across the shoulders : 16 ft. 6 from the top of the shoulder to the elbow ; 10 ft. 6 from the top of the head to the shoulder; 17 ft. 9 from the elbow to the finger's end; and 19 ft. 8 from the knee to the plant of the foot. The thrones are ornamented with figures of the god Nilus, who, holding the stalks of two plants pe- culiar to the river, is engaged in bind- ing up a pedestal or table, surmounted by the name of the Egyptian monarch — a symbolic group, indicating his dominion over the upper and lower countries. A line of hieroglyphics extends perpendicularly down the back, from the shoulder to the pe- destal, containing the name of the Pharaoh they represent. Tliree hundred feet behind these are the remains of another Colosms of similar form and dimensions, which, fallen prostrate, is partly buried by the alluvial deposits of the Nile. Corresponding to this are Four .Smaller Statties, formed of one block, and representing male and female figures, probably of Amunoph and his queen. They are seated on a throne, now concealed beneath the soil, and two of them are quite defaced. Their total height, without the head, which has been broken off, is 8 fb. 3 in., in- cluding the pedestal, and they were originjjly only about 9 ft. 10 in. They are therefore a strange pendant for a colossus of 60 ft., and, even making every allowance for Egyptian sym- metrophobia, it is difficult to account for their position. But the accumu- lation of the soil, their position on sandy ground, and their general di- rection, satisfactorily prove that they occupy their original site. Eighty-three yards behind these are the fragments of another Colossus, whichf like the last, has been thrown if the nature of its materials did not positively increase its beauty, their novelty, at least, called on the spec- tator to admire a statue of an enor- mous mass of crystallized carbonate of lime. From this point you readily perceive that the ground has sunk beneath the vocal statue, which may probably be partly owing to the nu- merous excavations that have been made at different times about its base. This dromosj or paved approach to the temple, was probably purt of the • ^*Boyal Street** mentioned in some papyri found at Thebes; whic^ cross- ing the western portion of the city from the temple, communicated, by means of a ferry, with that of Luxor, founded by the same Amunoph, on the other side of the river; as the great dromos of sphinxes, oonnecting the temples of Luxor and Eamak, formed the main street in the eastern district of Thebes. Continuing to the westward along the edge of the hdger, you arrive at the extensive moimds and walls of Christian hovels, which encumber and nearly conceal the ruins of Medeenet Hdboo, having passed several remains of other ancient buildings which once covered the intermediate space. Among these the most remarkable are near the N.N.E. comer of the mounds, where, besides innumerable fragments of sandstone, are the vestiges of two large colossi. In those Christian re- mams are some small crude-brick pointed arches of very early time. e. Medebnet Haboo. The ruins at Medeenet Haboo are undoubtedly of one of the four temples mentioned by Diodorus; the other three being those of Karnfrlr^ Luxor, and the Memnonium or first Bame- seum. Strabo, whose own observa- tion, added to the testimony of several ruins still traced on the W. bai^ is far more authentic, affirms that Thebes '^ had many temple& the greater part of which C^byses oefiBceC" During the empire the village of across the dromoa it once adorned *, ai]Ld\'NLe3Lfteiv&\. ^^\»o ^as still inhabited. Bgyjpt. SMALL TEMPLE OP THOTHMES III. 465 and the early Christians converted one of the deserted courts of the great temple into a church, having its nave separated from the aisles by columns, and terminating in an apse at the E. end ; the idolatrous sculptures of their Pagan ancestors being concealed by a coating of clay. The small apart- ments at the back part of this building were appropriated by the priests of the new religion, and houses of crude brick were erected on the ruins of the ancient village, and within the pre- cincts of the temple. The size of the church and extent of the village prove its Christian population to have been considerable, and show that Thebes ranked among the principal dioceses of the Coptic Church. But the inva- sion of the Arabs put a period to its existence, and its timid inmates, on their approach, fled to the neighbour- hood of Esneh; from which time Hedeenet Haboo ceased to hold a place among the villages of Thebes. It was probably on this occasion that the granite doorway was entered by violence ; though it is difficult to ascertain whether it took place then, Or daring the siege or the Persians or Ptolemies. But it is curious to ob- serve that the granite jambs have been Gut through exactly at the part where ^ha bar toaa placed across the door. The small Temple of Thothmes III, Before this temple is an open court, bout 80 ft by 125, whose front gate ,rs on either jamb tlie figure and ame of Autocrator, Caesar, Titus, --^Blius, Adrianus, Antoninus, Eusebes. ^^^^esides this court, Antoninus Pius ^^ded a row of eight columns, united ^fonr on either side) by intercolumnar screens, which form its N. end ; and ^is name again appears on the inner ^fiEtces of the doorway, the remaining part being unsculptured. On the N. %}t the transverse area, behind this fiolonnade, are two pyramidal towers, apparently of Eoman date, and a pylon uniting them, which last bears tho names and sculptures of Ptolemy Lathyrus on the S., and of Dionysius on the N. face. To this succeeds a aaall byptsthial couxt and pyra- midal towers of the Ethiopian Pha- raoh who defeated Sennacherib ; which, previous to the Ptolemaic ad- ditions, completed the extent of the elegant and well-proportioned vesti- bules of the original temple. This court was formed by a row of four columns on either side, the upper part of which rose considerably above the screens that united them to each other and to the towers at its northern extremity. Here Nectanebo has effaced the name of Tirhakah and introduced his own : and the hieroglyphics of Ptolemy Lathyrus have usurped a place among the sculptures of the Ethiopian monarch. Passing these towers you enter an- other court, 60 ft. long, on either side of which stood a row of nine columns, with a lateral entrance to the right and left. The jambs of one of these gateways still remain. They are of red granite, and bear the name of Petamunap. The corresponding door is, like the rest of the edifice, of sandstone from the quarries of Silsilis. This court may be called the inner vestibule, and to it succeeds the original edifice, com- posed of an isolated sanctuary, sur- rounded on three sides by a corridor of pillars, and on the fourth by six smaller chambers. The original founder of this part of the building was Amen-noo-het, or Hatasoo, who raised the great obelisk of Kamak ; Thothmes II. continued or altered the sculptures ; and Thothmes in. completed the architectural details of the sanctuary and peristyle. To these were afterwards added the hiero- glyphics of Rameses III. on the out- side of the building, to connect, by similarity of external appearance, the temple of his predecessors with that he erected in its vicinity. Some re- storations were afterwards made by Ptolemy Physcon; and, in addition to the sculptures of the two front door-ways, he repaired the columns which support the roof of the peristyle. Hakdris, of the 29th Dynasty, had previously elected \Jcifik ^m%^ wv <»iiisiss«. side; and mt\i Viae vJooN^xas'eic^Q^'A. 466 THEBES. Sect vm. eleven who added repairs or sculp- tures to this building. A stone gate- way was also added at the N.E. extremity of this temple. The door- way is curious, from being made in the fashion of those of the early time of the Pyramid kings. About 170 ft. N. by E. from this is an underground passage, upwartis of 60 ft. in length and 2 ft. 5 in. in breadth, descending to a small tank, also of hewn stone, and still containing water, about 8 ft. deep; and what is most remarkable is that the water is perfectly sweet, though in the midst of mounds abound- ing in nitre. About 90 ft. from the E. side of the inner court is an open Tanh or basin, cased with hewn stone, whose original dimensions may have been about 50 ft. square ; beyond which, to the S., are the remains of a large crude-brick Wall, with another of stone, crowned by battlements in the form of Egyptian shields, and bearing the name of Bameses V., by whom it was probably erected. This wall turns to the N. along the E. face of the mounds, and appears to have enclosed the whole of the temenos surrounding the temples, and to have been united to the E. side of the front tower of the great temple. Close to the tank is a broken statue, bearing the ovals of Kameses II. and of Taia, the wife of Amunoph III., his ancestor ; and several stones, inscribed with the name of this Bameses, have been used in tho construction of the gateway of Lathyrus and the adjoining towers. Oreat Temple and Palace of Bameses III. — Plan and General Features. — The S. or front part consists of a build- ing once isolate, but since united by a wall with the towers of the last- mentioned temple, before which two lodges form the sides of its spacious enliance. Still farther to the S. of this stood a raised platform, strength- ened by other masonry, bearing the name of the founder of the edifice, similar to those met with before the dromos of several Egyptian temples. Within, or ix) the N. of the lodges, is the main part of the building, xeaem-\ bling a pyramidal tower on either hand, between which runs an obloi^ court, terminated by a gateway, whi(£ passes beneath the chambers of the inner or N. side. The whole of tius edifice constituted what has been called the Palace of the King ; and in addition to several chambers that still remain, several others stood at the wings, and in the upper part, which have been destroyed. The sculptoies on the walls of the apartment over the gate on the 3rd floor are the moro interesting, as they are a singular in- stance of the internal decorations of an Egyptian palace. Here the king is attended by the ladies of his &mily, some of whom present him with flowere, or wave before him fans and fiabella; and a favourite is caressed,' or invited to divert his leisure hours with b game of draughts ; but they are all obliged to stand in his presence, and the king alone is seated on an elegant fauteuil amidst his female attendants — a custom still prevalent throughout the East The queen is not among them; and her oval is always blank, wherever it occurs, throughout the building. The same game of draughts is le^ presented in the grottoes of Bern Hassan, which are of a much earlier period, in the reign of Osirtasen, of the Xllth Dynas^. That it is not chess is evident frOm the men being ' all of similar size and. form, varying only in colour on opposite sides of tho board. They havacsometimes hmnan heads; and some /have been found of a small size, with other larger pieces, as if thero was a distinction, like our kings and common men in draaght& The visitor should make a point of climbing up and viewing the Colossi and the Bameseum from &e windows of the chamber. On the front walls tho oonqueior smites his suppliant captives in the presence of Amen-ra, who, on the NJl. side, appears under the form of Ba, the physical Sun, with the head of a hawk. An ornamental boirder, repre- senting *' the chiefs " of the yanqui^ed nations, European, Asiatic, and AMcan, ex.\£;si^ Q2lQii!k!^ the base of the whole GREAT TEMPLE OF RAMESES. Egypt front ; and on either side of the oblong court or passage of the centre Barneses offers similar prisoners to the deity of the temple, who says, ** Gro, my che- rished and chosen, make war on foreign nations, besiege their forts, and carry off their people to live as captives." Here ornamented balustrades, sup- ported each by four figures of African and Northern barbarians, remind us of Gothic taste; and the summit of the whole pavilion was crowned with a row of shields, the battlements of Egyptian architecture. From the palace a dromos of 265 ft. led to the Qrea;t Temple^ whose front is formed of two lofty pyramidal towers or propyla, with a pylon or doorway between them, the entrance to the first area or propylsBum. The sculptures over this First Pylon refer to the panegyrics of the king, whose name, as at the palace of Bameses II., appears in the centre. Those on the W. tower represent the monarch about to slay two prisoners in the presence of Ptah-Sokari, others being bound below and behind the figure of the god. In the lower part IB a tablet, commencing with the 12th year of Barneses ; and on the E. tower the same conqueror smites similar captives before Amen-ra. Beneath are other names of the conquered cities or districts of this northern enemy ; and at the upper part of the propylon a figure of colossal proportions grasps a groap of suppliant captives his up- fiftea arm is about to sacrifice. Passing through the pylon, you enter the First Court, about 110 ft. by 135, having on the right or N. side a row of seven Osiride pillars, and on the loft or S. eight circular, columns, with bell- fanned capitals, representing, not as is erroneously supposed, the rail blown lotas, but the papyrus plant. We now come to two other pyra- midal towers with a pylon between them. On the W. tower Bameses III. leads the prisoners he has taken to Amen-ra, who presents the falchion of ven- fleaoce, which the king holds forth Sis hand to receive; and on the E. is sa inscription beginning with the 467 " eighth year of his beloved Majesty" Bameses III. It has been translated by M. de Boug^, and contains the names of a large number of the Medi- terranean nations of antiquity, includ- ing the Pelasgi, the Teucri, the Siculi, the Daunians and the Oscans, who seem to have been confederated against Egypt with the Asiatics. This Secortd Pylon is of red granite, the hieroglyphics on whose jambs are cut to the depth of two or three inches. Those on the outer face contain offer- ings to different deities, among which we find a representation of the gate- way itself; and at the base of the jambs are four lines, stating that *^ Bameses made these buildings for his father Amen-ra, (and) erected for him (this) fine gateway of good blocks of granite stone, the door itself of wood embellished with plates of pure gold . . . for his good name (Bameses), Amen rejoicing to behold it" The summit of this pylon is crowned by a row of sitting cynocephali (or apes), the emblems of Thoth. We now enter the Second Courts one of the &aest which adorn the various temples of Egypt. Its dimensions are about 123 ft. by 133, and its height from the pavement to the cornice 39 ft. 4. It is surrounded bv an interior peristyle, whose east ana west sides are supported by five massive colunms, the south by a row of eight Osiride pillars, and the north by a similar number, behind which is an elegant corridor of circular columns, whose effect is unequalled by any other in Thebes. The colours, too, add greatly to the beauty of its columns, of whose massive style some idea may be formed, from their circumference of nearly 23 ft. to a height of 24, or about 3 dia- meters. In contemplating the gran- deur of this court, one cannot but be struck with the pstltry appearance of the Christian colonnade that encum- bers the centre ; or fail to regret the demolition of the interior of the temple, whose architraves were levelled to form the colunms that now spoil the architectural effect of the area: and the total dfiAtro^XKiOii cJl ^<8k CyM6S«k 468 THEBES, SeciVllL But if the rigid piety, or the domestic convenience, of the early Christians destroyed much of the ornamental details of this grand building, we are partly repaid by the interesting sculp- tures they unintentionally preserved beneath the clay or stucco with which they concealed them. The architraves present the dedication of the palace of ** Rameses at Thebes,'^ which is said to have been built of hard blocks of sandstone, and the adytum to have been beautified with the precious metals. Mention is also made of a doorway of hard stone, ornamented in a manner similar to the one before noticed. In the E. wall of the corridor of the court is a secret passage, which leads to an opening over the side door, as if intended to enable those within to look down and annoy any assailants from without ; and another pnssage is on the W. wall; but both appear to have been made after the building was completed. The remainder of the temple to the W. was until lately completely buried beneath the ruins of the Coptic village. Unfortunately the labour bestowed on its excavation wa£i not repaid by the discovery of anything of very great interest. , A large hall with little more than the base of the splendid columns which once adorned it remaining, and some small chambers on either side of it, covered with the ordinary religious scenes, are all that was found. The colours of the paintings in some of these chambers are still very bright. In the comer of one of them a large number of little Osirlde figures, all broken, were found under the pave- ment; they had been placed there probably for the purpose of consecrat- ing the place. The head and forepart of several lions project, at intervals, from below the cornice of the exterior of tlie building, whose perforated mouths, communicating by a tube with the hummit of the roof, served as conduits for the rain-water which occasionally fell at Thebes. Nor were they ne- glectful of any precaution that might secure the paintings of the interior ^w the effects of rain ; and the ^ointa of the stones which formed the ceiling being protected by a long piece of stone, let in immediately over the line of their junction, were rendered im- pervious to the heaviest storm. For showers fall annually in Thebes : per- haps on an average four or five in the.'j year: and every eight or ten yean' heavy rains fill the torrent-beds of tlw! mountains, which run to the banksof tbfl J Nile. It was a storm of this kind ~ did much damage to Belzoni's tomb. Square apertures were also cut intervals in the roofs, the larger intended for the admission of the smaller probably for the chains that supported lamps the illumination of the interior. Sculptures. — The sculptures on walls of this temple are very inteic^ ing. Some of them have been refeodr to in passing through it, but othflil^ merit a more detailed description. We will begin with those on the Interior of the Second Court, — Hie upper compartmente of the N., S.| B. and W. sides of this court are oocn^in with what may be called CeremSM Scenes. Beginning with the IL, or rather N.E. side (to the rt. on enten^X Bameses is borne in his shzine, or canopy, seated on a throne ornamented by the figures of a lion, and a sftasi which is preceded by a hawk. Be- hind him stand two figures of Troth and Justice, with outspread wings. Nine Egyptian princes, whose names are above them, sons of the king, bear the shrine ; officers wave flabella around tlie monarch ; and others, of the sacerdotal order, attend on either side, carrying his arms and insignia. Fofor others follow ; then six of the sons of tlie king, behind whom are two scribes and eight attendants of the military class, bearing stools and the steps of the throne. In another line are members of the saecrdotal order, four other of the king's sons, fan-bearers, and military scribes ; a guard of soldiers bringing up the rear of the procesBioQ. B^oie tlie shrine, in one line, march six officers, bearing sceptres and other in- signia ; in another, a scribe reads aloud \ VVvQ cou\i&\i\A q€ a scroll he liolds qq" Egypt. SCULPTURES AT MEDEENET HABOO. 469 folded in his hands, preceded by two of the king's sons and two distinguished persons of the military and priestly orders. T'he rear of both these lines is closed by a pontiff, who, turning round towards the shrine, bums incense be- fore the monarch; and a band of usic, composed of the trumpet, drum, luble pipe, and crotcHa, or clappers, th choristers, forms the van of the recession. The king, alighted from I throne, officiates as priest before the tue of Amen-Khem, or Amen-ra enerator ; and, still wearing his hel- t, he presents libations and incense the altar, which is loaded with wers and other suitable offerings, e statue of the god, attended by ers bearing flabella, is carried on a quin, covered with rich drapery, enty-two priests; and behind it w others, bringing the table and altar of the deity. Before the is the sacred bull, followed by g on foot, wearing the cap of ower country.** Apart from the ion itself stands the queen as ator of the ceremony ; and be- a scribe reads a scroll he has A priest turns round to nse to the white bull, and clapping his hands, brings up a long procession of hiera- ying standards, images, and 1 emblems; and the fore- mos^^^Khe statues of the king's an- ^^^^ partof the picture refers to the C^^^Uon of the king, who, in the hierog^^Bps, is said to have ** put on the cl^^Hpf the upper and lower oounti^^^Virhich the carrier-pigeons, ^^^ four sides of the world, are to ^^Bdce to the gods of the south, n^^Hast, and west. In the^^H compartment the presi- dent of t^^^knbly reads a long invo- cation, tl^^^Htents of which are con- tained iD^^Hierogl3rphic inscription above ; fti^^H six ears of com, which the king, ^^Hore wearing his helmet, has cot w^^H golden sickle, are held out by a j^^Kowards the deity. The white b^^Hid the images of the king's a^^Brs, are deposited in his temple ^^^*»') presence of Amen- Kbeir m sUU witnessing the ceremony, which is concluded by an offering of incense and libation made by Bameses to the statue of the god. In the lower compartments on this side is a procession of the arks of Amen-ra, Maut, and Khonso, which the king, whose ark is also carried before him, comes to meet. In an- other part the gods Seth and Hor-Hat pour alternate emblems of life and power (or purity) over the king ; and on the south wall he is introduced by several divinities into the presence of the patron deities of the temple. In the upper part of the W. wall Bameses makes offerings to Ptah- Sokari and to Kneph; in another compartment he bums incense to the ark of Sokari; and near this is a tablet relating to the offerings made to the same deity. The ark is then borne by 16 priests, with a pontiff and another of the sacerdotal order in attendance. The king then joins iu another procession formed by eight of his sons and four chiefs, behind whom two priests turn round to offer incense to the monarch. The hawk, the emblem of the king, or of Horus, precedes them, and 18 priests carry the sacred emblem of the god Nofre- Atmoo, which usually accompanies the ark of Sokari. On the S. wall marches a k>ng procession, composed of hieraphori, bearing different standards, thrones, arks, and insignia, with musicians, who precede the king and his attend- ants. The figure of the deity is not introduced, perhaps intimating that this forms part of the religious pomp of the corresponding waU, and from the circumstance of the king here wearing the pshent, it is not impro- bable it may also allude to his coro- nation. On the N. wall the king presents offerings to different gods, and below is an ornamental kind of border, com- posed of a procession of the king's sons and daughters. Four of the former, his immediate successors, bear the asp or basilisk, the emblem of ma^el^^ their iiam!&&. * w>,v >i. 470 THEBES. Sect. vm. S., E., and W. sides of this court are filled with Historical or Battle Scenes, They oommence on the S.W. wall (to the 1. on entering). Here Barneses, standing in his car, which his horses at full speed carry into the midst of the enemy's ranks, discharges his arrows on their flying infantry. The Egyptian chariots join in the pursuit, and a body of their allies assist in slaughtering those who oppose them, or bind them as captives. The right hands of the slain are then cut off as trophies of victory. The sculptures on the lower part of the W. wall are a continuation of the scene. The Egyptian princes and generals conduct ** captive chiefs" into the presence of the king. He is seated at the back of his car, and the spirited horses are held by his atten- dants on foot. Besides other trophies, large heaps of hands are placed before him, which an officer counts one by one as the other notes down their number on a scroll, each heap con- taining 3000, and the total indicating the returns of the enemy's slain. The number of captives, reckoned 1000 in each line, is also mentioned in the hierogl^hics above, where the name of the Liboo (Libyans) or Bebo points out the nation against whom this war was carried on. A long hieroglyphic inscription is placed over the king, and a still longer tablet, occupying a great part of this wall, refers to the exploits of the Egyptian conqueror, and bears the date of his fifth year. The suite of this historical subject continues on the S. wall. The king, returning victorious to Egypt, pro- ceeds slowly in his car, conducting in triumph the prisoners he has made, who walk beside and before it, three others being bound to the axle. Two of his sons attend as fan-bearers, and the several regiments of Egyptian in- fantry, with a corps of their allies, imder the command of three other of these princes, marching in regular step and in the close array of disci- plined troops, accompany tiieir king. Me arrives at Thebes, and presents his captives to Amen-ra and Maut, the deiiiea of the city, who compiiment \ ftom© )iJtio\xasMD[dia «t^ \s& d^RA^ csa. ^Ssa^ him, as usual, on the victory he has gained, and the overthrow of the enemy he has " trampled beneath his feet." Exterior of the BuHding.^Bui if the sculptures of the area arrest the attention of the antiquary, or excite the admiration of the traveller, those of the exterior of the building are no less wonderful, and the north and east walls are covered v^th a profusion of the most varied and interesting sub- jects, which may also be divided into ceremonial and historicaL The Cerefmonial Scenes are on the W. wall, which is entirely covered with a list of the Festivals celebrated during the year in the temple by Hameses III., and on the upper part of the N. wall where the king is making suitable offerings to the gods. The Historical or Battle Scenes are on the N. and E. walls. Beginning at the east end of the W. wall, there are a succession of 10 pictures, arranged in compartments, illustrating the history of a war waged by Eameses III. against the libyaos or BebOj and the Takkaro or Todari, Ist Picture: A trumpeter assembles the troops, who salute the Idn^ as he passes in his car. Barneses advances at a slow pace in his chariot, attended by fan-b^o^rs, and preceded by hia troops : and a lion running at the side of the horses reminds us of the ac- count given of Osymandyas, who W said to have been accompanied in war by that animaL Other instances of it are met with in Knbia, among the sculptures of the second Ba- meses. 2nd Picture: The enemy are the Tamahoo, a Libyan tribe, who await the Egyptian invaders in tbe open field ; the king presses forwards in his car, and bends nis bow against the enemy. Several regiments of Egyptian archers in close array ad- vance on difierent points, and harass them I with showers of arrows. The chariots rush to the charge, and a body of allies maintains the combat, hand to hand, with the enemy, who are at length routed, and fly before their \N\oVyn.ow& «j^ of the Bed Sea, and the *' holy land of Pount, appears to have reached its termination. On the S. wall is de- picted the arrival of captives and hostages bearing tribute. Among other things they bring trees whose roots are tied up in baskets. The scene appears to be laid on the sea-shore, along which a detachment of Egyptian troops advances to receive the new- comers. It is curious to note the fishes appearing through the trans- parent water. The scene is continued on the W. wall. On the upper com- partment is represented a fresh arrival of prisoners. Below, the Egyptian fleet is drawn up on the sea-shore, while the process of embarking various mer- chandise as tribute is being carried on. The fish are again depicted with the same curious effect. In a side chamber to the S. are some more scenes. Here it is no longer the green waves of the sea, but the blue waters of the Nile, on which float highly ornamented boats. Below are more troops on the march. In one of the smaller chambers the colours of the paintings are wonder- fully vivid and well preserved. On both sides of two successive passages is a beautifully sculptured scene, re- presenting the royal infant suckled by the goddess Athor, under the form of a most perfectly proportioned cow. Vaulted Charnhers. — These and other inner chambers are made to imitate vaults, like the one still remaining on the outside ; but they are not on the principle of the arch, being composed of blocks placed horizontally, one pro- jecting beyond that immediately below it, till the uppermost two meet in the centre ; the interior angles being after- wards rounded off to form the vault. The Egyptians were not, however, ignorant of the principle or use of the arch ; and the reason of their prefer- ring one of this construction probably arose from the difficulty of repairing an in3\iredN«i.\x\.\i m \)ckft ""cocKas^^^iL x«2k<3&-, and tVie cona©c^e\iR«^ ^\XKa^^Xi% "^^^^ decay o£ a. sm^e. \A.w3«l. ^at ^-mx ; any oTxe, iu o\>mN*m^ ^X:^^ ^^"^ ^"=^^^' 476 THEBES. Sect-Vin. iuoumbeiit weight applied to the haunches, suppcteie tluit this stylo of building is devoid of strength, and of the usual durability of an Egyptian fabric, or pronounce it to be ill-suited to the purpose for which it was erected, the support of the friable rock of the mountain, ^^ithin whose excavated base it stood, and which threatened to let fall its crumbling masses on its summit. The entrance to these vaulted cham- bers is by a granite doorway ; and the first, which measures 30 ft. by 12, is ornamented with sculptures that throw great light on the names of some of the members of the Thothmos family. Here Thothmes I., and his queen Ames, accompanied by their young daughter, but all ** deceased " at the time of its constru(;tion, receive the adoration and offerings of Hatasoo, and of Thothmes III., followed by his daughter Re-ni-nofie. Tlie niche and inner door also })resent the name of the former, effaced by tlio same Thothmes, whose name throughout the interior usurps the place of liis predecessor's. To this succeeds a smaller apartment, which, like the 2 lateral rooms with which it com- municates, has a vaulted roof; and beyond is an adytum of the late date of Ptolemy Physcon. Several blocks, used at a later period to repair the wall of the inner or upi)er com*t, bear hieroglyphics of various epochs, liaving been brought from other structures; among which the most remarkable are — one containing the name of King Horus, the prede- cessor of Hameses I., and mentioning ** the father of his father's father's father," Thothmes III., who was, in reality, his fourth ancestor; and an- other of the 4th year of Meueptali, the son of Kameses II. On the E. side of the dromos, and about 600 ft. from the pedestals of the obelisks, are the fragments of granite sphinxes and calcareous columns of an early epoch, at least coeval with the founder of these structures; and a short distance beyond them is a path leading over the hills to the Tomba oftheKin^s, h. Tombs of the Xxngs. These are known in Arabic under their title of Bah or Bibdn d-M6U)ok, the " Gate '* or " Gates of the Kinga." The distance from the river is aMnt 3 miles. The road lies past the t^nple of Eooineh, and then enters a barreu, desolate valley, utterly blasted by the heat of the sun. Near the entrance to the gorge in which are the tombs usually visited, belonging entirely to the XlXth and XXth Dynasties, a brancii path leads westward to another valley, in which are the tombs of the XVIIIth Dynasty. The principle of oonstruciion in the royal tombs at Bab el-Molook is entiielT different from that which regulated the ordinary Egyptian mausoleam (eee p. 76). Here there is no madabak, and no exterior chambers, in wbioh the surviving relations met at certain sea.sons to pay their respects to the dead. The " Tombs of the Kings " at Bab el-Molook are all exosTated out of the rock, and consist of long inoUneil passages, with here and there halli and small chambers, penetrating to a greater or less distance into the heart of the mountain. Once the rq^ mummy was safely deposited in iti resting-pluce, the entrance was built up, and the surrounding rock levelled, su as to leave no trace of the ezistence of the tomb. It has been oonjectored by M. Mariette that the repreeenter tives, to a certain extent, of the mattor hahs, are to be found at Thebea in tlie temples that line the edge of ibe desert, and which were oenotapbi^ in which the memory of the king mi preserved and worshipped. The number of tombs now open in the principal or Eastern Valley is 25, but they are not all kings' tombs ; some are those of princes and high fiuio tionaries. Strabo speaks of having seen about 40, but he included in tlii^ number those of the western valley. and, perhaps, the Tombs of the Queens. It would be impossible to give a detailed account of all these tomb:^ 'w\ivc\i\x^^'«i^d differ very much in in- \ Plas op the Tombs of the Kmos (Bab El-Molook). explanation of the paintinjs^s they con- tain. It will he sufiBcient to notice at length a few of the most important. They are known to the guides by the numbers affixed to them by Sir Gard- ner Wilkinson, but two or three of the best worth seeing have special desig- nations. No. 1 is in the first short valley, branching to the right ; No. 2 is the first in the main valley. No. 17. Tomb of Sethi I., commonly called Belzoni's Tomb. — This tomb is in the second short valley to the left. It was discovered by Belzoni, and is by far the most remarkable for its sculpture and the state of its preser- vation. Flan, — This is far from being well r^nlated, and the deviation from one line of direction greatly injures its general effect ; nor does the rapid de- scent by a staircase of 24 ft. in perpen- dicular depth on a horizontal length of 29, convey so appropriate an idea of the entrance to the abode of death as the gradual talus of others of these sepulchres. To this staircase succeeds a passage of 18^ ft. by 9, including the jambs ; and passing another door, a second staircase descends in hori- zontal length 25 ft. Beyond, 2 door- ways and a passage of 29 ft. bring you to an oblong chamber 12 ft. by 14, where a pit, filled up by Belzoni, once appeared to form the utmost limit of the tomb. Part of its inner wall was composed of blocks of hewn stone, closely cemented together, and covered with a smooth coat of stucco, like the other walls of this excavated cata- comb, on which was painted a con- tinuation of those subjects that stUl adorn its remaining sides. Independent of the main object of this pit, so admirably calculated to mislead, or at least to check the search of the curious and the spoiler, another advantage was thei'eby gained. The preservation of the interior part of the tomb was effectually guaranteed from the destructive inroad of the rain-water, whose torrent its depth completely intercepted. A storm some years ago, by the havoc c&uBed in the inner chamberB, sadly demonatrated the fact. TOMBS 05* THE KINGS. 477 The hollow sound of the wall of masonry above mentioned, and a small aperture, betrayed to Belzoni the secret of its hidden chambers ; and a palm- tree, supplying the place of the more classic ram, soon forced the inter- mediate barrier. The breach dis- played the splendour of the succeeding hall, at once astonishing and delight- ing its discoverer, whose labours were so gratefully repaid. But tliis was not the only part of the tomb that had been closed. The outer door was also blocked up with masonry; and the staircase before it was concealed by accumulated fragments, and by the earth that had fallen from the hill above. And it was the sinking of the ground at this part, from the water that had soaked through into the tomb, that led the peasants to suspect the secret of its position; which was re- vealed by them to Belzoni. The four pillars of the first hall beyond the pit, which support a roof about 26 ft. square, are decorated, like the whole of the walls, with highly- finished and well-preserved sculptures. From their vivid colours they appear but the work of yesterday. Near the centre of the inner wall a few steps lead to a second hall, of similar dimen- sions, supported by two pillars, but left in an unfinished state. The sculp- tors had not yet commenced the outline of the figures the draughtsmen had but just completed. It is here that the first deviations from the general line of direction occur ; which are still more remarkable in the staircase that descends at the southern comer of the first hall. To this last succeed two passages, and a chamber 17 ft. by 14, commimi- cating by a door not quite in the centre of its inner wall, with the grand hall, which is 27 ft. square, and supported by six pillars. On either side of this hall is a small chamber, opposite the angle of the first pillars. The upper end terminates in a vaulted saloon, 19 ft. by 30, in whose centre stood an alabaster sarcophagus, now in the Soane Museum, tt'^^'a xsl^tiVss.^ Swn.- mediate BummVioi «xlYcv5i^»ftftL^^^^^ which, -witYi a fe\».YtQ,^"&^ ^^ ^VCcL«t >£\g^^v 478 THEBES. Sect. vm. descBDds into the heart of the argil- laceous rock for a distance of 150 ft. When Belzoni opened this tomb it ex- tended much farther; but the rock, which from its friable nature could only be excavated by supporting the roof with scaffolding, has since fallen, and curtailed a still greater portion of its original length. The inscriptions on the sarcophagus have been trans- lated C Records of the Past/ x. 79). This passage, like the entrance of the tomb and the first hall, was closed and concealed by a wall of masonry, which, coming even with the base of the sarcophagus, completely masked the staircase, and covered it with an artificial floor. It seems hardly probable that the sacred person of an Egyptian king would be exposed in the inviting situ- ation of these sarcophagi, especially when they took so much care to con- ceal the bodies of inferior subjects. It is true the entrance was closed, but the position of a monarch's tomb would be known to many besides the priest- hood, and traditionally remembered by others. Some, in later times, might not be proof against the temptation of such rich plunder. The priests must at least have foreseen the chance of this ; and we know that many of the tombs were plundered in very early times. Several, too, were the resting- places of later occupants ; while some were burnt and reoccupied (probably at the time of the Persian invasion) ; and others were usurped by Greeks. Some of the sepulchres of the kings were open from a very remote period, and seen by Greek and Homan visitors, who mention them in inscriptions written on their walls, as the syringes {(Tvoiyyes) or tunnels — a name by which they axe described by Pausanias. Diodorus, who, on the authority of the priests, reckons 47, says that 17 re- mained in the time of Ptolemy Lagus. From this we may infer that 17 were then open, and that the remaining 30 were closed in his time. Strabo too supposes their total number to have been about 40. A small chamber and two niches are made in the N.W. wall oi thia part of the grand hall; and at the upper end a step leads to an unfinished chamber, 17 ft by 43, supported by a row of four pillars. On the S.W. are other niches, and a room about 25 fl. square, ornamented with two pillars and a broad bench (hewn, like the rest of the tomb, in the rock) around three of its sides, 4 ft. high, with foor shallow recesses on each face, and surmounted by an elegant Egyptian cornice. It is difficult to understand the purport of it, unless its level sum- mit served as a repository for the mummies of the inferior persons of the king's household; but it is more probable that these were also deposited in pits. The total horizontal length of this catacomb is 320 ft., without the in- clined descent below the sarcophagus, and its perpendicular depth 90. But, including that part, it measures 470, and in depth about 180 ft., to the spot where it is closed by the fellen rock. Sculptures, — ^Although when this tomb was discovered by Belzoni it bad already, at some remote period, been opened and violated, no injury had been done to the sculptures on the walls, spd when he first saw it every bas-relief was perfect, and the paintings as vivid and fresh as the day they were done. Fifty years' exposure to the tender mercies of the savan, the antiquity* monger, and the tourist, have con- siderably spoilt its original beautji and the thoughtful visitor camiot W^ to mark with regret the spoliations and defacements to which it has been subjected. The sculptures in the First Passage consist of lines of liieroglyphics relating to the king Sethi,or Osirei, **the beloved of Ptah," who was the father of Barneses II. and the occupant of the tomb. In the staircase whicli succeeds it are on one side 37, on the other 89 genii of vft- rious forms; among which a figure represented with a stream of tears issuing from his eyes is remarkable from having the (Coptic) word Win*, ** lamentation," in the hieroglyphics Egypt. In the Second Passage are the boats of Kneph ; . and several descending planes, on which are placed the valves of doors, probably referring to the descent to Amenti. The goddess of Tmth or Justice stands at the lower extremity. In the small chamber over the pit the king makes offerings to different gods, Osiris being the prin- cipal deity. Athor, Horus, Isis, and Annbis, are also introduced. On the pillars of the First Hall the monarch stands in the presence of various divinities, who seem to be re- ceiving him after his death. But one of the most interesting subjects here is a procession of four different people, of red, white, black, and again white eomplexions, four by four, followed by Ba, " the sun." The four red figures are Egyptians, designated under the name rdt, "mankind;" the next, a white race, with blue eyes, long bushy beards, and clad in a short dress, are a northern nation, with whom the Eg3rp- ijans were long at war, and appear to signify the nations of the north ; as the n^oes (called Nahsi) the south ; and the four others, also a white people, with apointed beard, blue eyes, feathers in their hair, and crosses or other de- uces about their persons, and dressed in bng flowing robes, the east. These then are not in the character of pri- soners, but a typification of the four ^visions of the world, or the whole nmnan race, and are introduced among the sculptures of these sepulchres in the same abstract sense as the trades yf the Esryptians in. the tombs of private individuals ; the latter being an epi- tome of human life, as far as regarded that people themselves, the former re- ferring to the inhabitants of the whole World. On the end wall of this haU is a fine gnmp, which is remarkable as well for the elegance of its drawing as for the riohnesB and preservation of the colour- ing. The subject is the introduction of the king, by Horus, into the presence of Osiris and Athor. Though not the most striking, the moet interesting drawings in this tomb are those of the Second HaU, which was left unfiniahed ; nor can any ono look TOMBS OF THE KINGS. 479 upon those figures with the eye of a draughtsman, without paying a just tribute to the freedom of their outlines. In preparing the wall to receive the bas-reliefs it was sometimes customary to portion it out into squares; but it was not the method universally adopted for drawing Egyptian figures. We see in this and other places that they were sketched without that prescribed measurement ; and it is probable that this was principally used when a copy was made of an original drawing — a method adopted by us at the present day. Here we find that the position of the figures was first traced with a red colour by the draughtsman ; when, having been submitted to the inspec- tion of the master-artist, those jMirts which he deemed deficient in propor- tion or correctness of attitude were altered by him in black ink (as appears to have been the case in the figures here designed) ; and in that state they were left for the chisel of the sculptor. But on this occasion the death of the king or some other cause prevented their completion: though their un- finished condition, so far from exciting our regret, affords a satisfactory op- portunity of appreciating the sMll of the Egyptian draughtsmen. We here see the bold decided line which was the aim of all antique drawing. In these figures some of the lines are a foot or a foot and a quarter in length ; as from the shoulder to the elbow, or the knee to the instep; and done at a single stroke; while the red lines of the inferior artist, and his pentimentij show, that, though he occasionally failed in the perfect use of his pencil, he was instructed in the same bold style of draw- ing, and in the importance of ono long-continuous outline. In the sculptures critically examined, we may trace the handiwork of several artists. The subjects in the succeeding Pas- sages refer mostly to the liturgies or ceremonies performed to the deceased monarch. In the Square Chamber be- yond them the king is seen in the presence of the deities MSssst^"^^<5>TVi56k^ 480 THEBES. Sect.VIII and Ptah. Tlie "Liturgy of Ra,*' whicli occurs on the pastago walls of this tomb, as well as iu other royal tombs in this valley, has been trans- lated (• Records of the Past/ vol. viii. p. 105). The Grand Hall contains numerous subjects, among which are a series of mummies, each in its own repository, whose folding-doors are thrown open ; and it is probable that all the parts of these catacombs refer to different states through which the deceased passed, and the various mansions of Hades or Amenti. The representations of the door-valves at their entrance tend to confirm this opinion ; while many of the subjects relate to the life and actions of the deceased, and many are similar to those in the ' Book of the Dead.' In the Side Chambers are some mysterious ceremonies connected with fire, and various other subjects. The Transverse Vaulted Part of the Great Hall, or Saloon of the Sarco- pliagus, ornamented with a profusion of sculpture, is a termination worthy of the rest of this grand sepulchral monument. In the chamber on the 1., with the broad bench, are various subjects; some of which, especially those appearing to represent human sacrifices, may refer to the initiation into the higher mysteries, by the supposed death and regeneration of the Neophyte. No. 11. Tomb of Barneses III., com- monly called JBruce^s, or TJie Harpers* Tomb. — This tomb was discovered by the traveller Bruce, hence one of its names. The other appellation is de- rived from the famous picture in ono of the chambers of the men playing the harp. The execution of the sculp- tures is inferior to that in No. 17, but the nature of the subjects is more interesting Plan. — The line of direction in this catacomb, after the first 130 ft., is in- terrupted by the vicinity of the adjoin- ing tomb, and makes, in consequence, a slight deviation to the rt. of 13 ft., when it resumes the same direction tf^A/n for other 275, which give it a \ total length of 405 ft Its plan diffen from that of No. 17, and the rapiditj of its descent is considerably less being perpendicularly only 31 fi Beyond the grand hall of the sarco- phagus are three successive passages, in the last of which are benches m- tended apparently for the same pur- pose as those of the lateral chambei in No. 17, to which they are greatly inferior in point of taste. The large granite sarcophagus was removed hence by Mr. Salt Sculptures. — This tomb is much defaced, and the nature of the rock is unfavourable for sculpture. The subjects in the first passage, after the recess to the right, are similai to those of No. 17, and areTsupposed to relate to the descent to Amenti; bnt the figure of Truth, and the other groups in connection with that part of them, are placed in a square nicbe. The character of the four people in the first hall differs slightly from those of the former tomb ; four blacks, clad in African dresses, being substitated instead of the Egyptians, though the same name, Bot, is introduced before them! The most interesting sculptures are in the small chambers on either side of the first two passages, since they throw considerable light on the style of the furniture and arms, and conse- quently on the manners and customs, of the Egyptians. Left Me (on entering), 1st Chanib^- Here we have kitchen scenes. The prin- cipal groups, though much defaced, may yet be recognised. Some are en- gaged in slaughtering osen, and catting up the joints, which are put into cal- drons on a tripod placed over a T^ood fire ; and in the lower line a man is employed in cutting a leather strap he holds with his feet — a practice still common throughout the East. An- other pounds something for the kitchen in a large mortar ; another apparently minces the meat; and a pallet, sus- pended by ropes running in rings fos** ened to the roof, is reused from the ground, to guard against ^e intrusion of rats and other depredators. On the op^^vte side^ in Hie upper line, two Egypt. TOMBS OF THE KINGS. 481 men knead a substance with their feet ; others cook meat, pastry, and broth, probably of lentils, which fill some baskets beside them ; and of the fres- coes in the lower line, sufficient re- mains to show that others are engaged in drawing off, by means of syphons, a liquid from vases before them. On tfaie end wall is the process of making bread ; but the dough is kneaded by the hand, and not, as Herodotus and Strabo say, by the feet; and small black seeds (probably the hahheh sdda still used in Egypt) being sprinkled on the surfEuse of the cakes, they are carried on a wooden pallet to the oven. The 2nd Chamber merely contains emblems and deities. In the Srd Chamber are birds, and some produc- tions of Egypt, as geese and quails, ®g£»s, pomegranates, grapes, with other finiits and herbs, among which last is the ghiilgOt or Feriploca secamone of Linnaeus, still common in the deserts of Egypt, and resembling in form the ivy, which is unknown in the country. The figures in the lower line are of the god Kilns. The principal figures of the Last Chamber are two harpers playing on instruments of not inelegant form before the god Moui, or Hercules. From these the tomb received its name. One (if not both) of the min- strels is blind. (See Wilkinson's 'Ancient Egyptians,' vol. i. pi. ix. bis.) Bight side (on entering), 1st Chamber. Several boats are seen, with square chequered sails, some having spacious cabins, and others only a seat near the mast. They are richly painted, and loaded with ornaments ; and those in the lower lines have the mast and jwed lowered over the cabin. (See Wilkinson's * Ancient Egyptians,' vol. it pi. xiii.) Th6 2'nd Chamber contains the va- rious arms and warlike implements of the Egyptians; among which are knives, quilted helmets, spears, daggers, quivers, bows, arrows, falchions, coats of mail, darts, dubs, and standards. On either side of the door is a black «ow with the head-dress of Athor, one tooompanied by hieroglyphics signify- ing the N., the other by those of the [Mgi^e,—PT. IF.] S. ; intimating that these are the legends of Upper and Lower Egypt. The blue colour of some of the weapons suffices to prove them to have been of steel. The 3r(2 Chamber has chairs of the most elegant form, covered with rich drapery, highly ornamented, and in admirable taste (see Wilkinson's * An- cient Egyptians,' vol. i., pi. x.), nor can any one who sees the beauty of Egyptian furniture refuse for one mo- ment his assent to the fact that this peo- ple, at the time of the XXth Dynasty, were greatly advanced in the arts of civilisation and the comforts of domes- tic life. Sofas, couches, vases of por- celain and pottery, copper utensils, caldrons, rare woods, printed stuffs, leopard-skins, basketis of a very neat and graceful shape, and basins and ewers, whose designs vie with the productions of the cabinet-maker, com- plete the interesting series of these paintings. The ^th Chamber contains agricul- tural scenes, in which the inundation of the Nile passing through the canals, sowing and reaping wheat, and a grain which from its height and round head appears to be the doora or sorghum, as well as the flowers of the country, are represented. But, however successful the Egyptians may have been in seiz- ing the character of animals, they failed in the art of drawing trees and flowers, and their coloured plants would perplex the most profound bo- tanist equally with the fanciful pro- ductions of an Arabic herbarium. In the 5th O^afn&er are different forms of the god Osiris having various attri- butes. In the 6th (Jhamber are rudders and sacred emblems. Each of these small apartments has a pit, now closed, where it is probable that some of the officers of the king's household were buried ; in which case the subjects on the walls refer to the station they held ; as, the chief cook, the superintendent of the royal boats, the armour-bearer, the stewards of the household, and of the xo'^^V ^^gscwKsoa, the priest ol \Xi^ \ixv^,Vsia ^Kt^^osst^ hiexapYiotoB, «vv^ tkitv^Xx^. 2k Ek- 482 THEBES. Sect.Vin. In this tomb are several Greek graffiti, a fact which shows that it was one of those open during the reign of the Ptolemies. No. 9. Tomb of Barneses FX, called, as we learn from the graffiti inside, by the Romans the Tomb ofMemnorit prob- ably from its being the handsomest then open ; though the title of Mia- mun given to the occupant of this catacomb, in common with many other of the Pharaohs, may have led to this error. It was greatly admired by the Greek and Eoman visitors, who ex- pressed their satisfaction by ex-votosy and inscriptions of various lengths, and who generally agree that, having " ex- amined these syringes" or tunnels, that of Memnon had the greatest claim upon their admiration ; though one morose old gentleman, of the name of Epiphanius, declares he saw nothing to admire, " but the stone," meaning the sarcophagus, near which he wrote his laconic and ill-natured remark : Evup- avios urropriaa ovdcy 86 cSavfAacra ri firi rov \i0ov. In the second passage, on the left going in, immediately under the figure of a wicked soul returning from the presence of Osiris in the form of a pig, is a longer inscription of an Athenian, the Dadtichus of the Eleu- sinian mysteries, who visited Thebes in the reign of Gonstantine. This was about sixty years before they were abolished by Theodosius, after having existed for ni t\ife T«flir^^\«twA<25t*^^*«*i cnxiona viaiXAt ; «eA \}Ksa ^erNaiC^s^^oisri 484 THEBES. Sect, vm perhaps indicate the vicinity of another tomb oehind it. It is probable that there are more tombs in this valley belonging to kings of the XVnith Dynasty, the discovery of which would be very interesting. All who have the time and are not too tired, instead of returning to the river by the way they came, should climb the Footpath that leads up from the eastern valley of the Tombs of the Kings to the top of the mountain overlooking the plain of Thebes, and immediately above the temple of Dayr el-6ahree. Not only is the View to be obtained from the high peak, to the right of the flat plateau on whicli the path emerges, the most beautiful in Egypt, but the map of Thebes can be better understood &om this point than from anywhere else. i. Tombs op Pbiests and Pbivatb Individuals. It is difficult to determine what par- ticular portions of the vast Necropolis of Thebes were set apart for the sepul- ture of the various classes of persons, but it may be observed that in those places where the compact nature of the rock was not suited for large ex- cavations, the tombs of the priests and important functionaries are invariably met with, while those of persons of in- ferior rank are to be looked for, either in the plain beneath, or in the less solid parts of the adjacent hills. It is equally impossible to class the di^erent parts of the Necropolis accord- ing to their antiquity, as tombs of a remote epoch are continually inter- mixed with those of more recent date. There is every reason, however, to believe that the oldest tombs at Thebes are to be found at Drah AhooH-Negga, near Koomeh in the hill behind the temple. This cemetery contains tombs of the Xlth Dynasty period. The coffins of two kings named Entef of that dynasty were found there, and are now at Paris. There are also tombs of the XYIIIth Dynasty. Heze was found, by M. Mariette in 1859, the coffin (^ Queen Aah-Hotep — who appears to have been the wife ofKames, probably a prince of the XVlIth Dynasty, and the mother of Ahmes, first king of the XVIIIth Dynasty — with the magnifi- cent collection of jewellery now in the Boolak Museum (see p. 204). There aie no tombs at Drah Aboo'l-Negga worth seeing, but it is a curiously weird place with its barren terraced hills covered with the debris of the exca- vations. Tombs of the Assaaeef. — Continuing in a S. direction from Drah Aboo'l- Negga, we reach another part of the Necropolis, situated as it were in the centre of the amphitheatre at the hack of which is Dayr el-Bahree. The Tombs of the Assas^ef, as they are called, are excavated out of the hard white limestone which forms the nu- cleus of the Libyan hills ; and to this circumstance must be attributed the dilapidated state • in which they now are, they having been destroyed and broken up for me sake of the lime. They are not less remarkable for their extent than for the profusion and de- tail of their ornamental sculptoie. The smallest commence with an outer court, decorated by a peristyle of pil- lars. To this succeeds an arched 01- trance to the tomb itself, which con- sists of a long hall, supported by a double row of four pillars, and anotiier of smaller dimensions beyond it, with four pUlars in the centre. The date of the tombs in this Ne- cropolis is of the XlXth, XXUnd, and XXVIth Dynasties, tlnfortunately, those that remain worth seeing are few and not very interesting. In visiting them, the best plan is to trust to the guides, who know which aie worth showing. Tomb of Tetamuno^, — ^This, the largest of all the tombs, and indeed oi all the sepulchres of Thebes, i&x ex- ceeding in extent any of the Tombs ol the Kinp:8, is situateld at the extreme west of the cemetery. It is very muot - infested with bats, and had better there- XVUth, and oi the beginning oi ttic \ioi© iio\. \ie evA^\«3L\i^ those who dis- Eg^t. TOMBS OF THE ASSAS^EF. 485 like them. Its outer court or area is 103 ft. by 76, with a flight of steps descending to its centre from the en- trance, which lies between two massive crude-brick walls, once supporting an arched gateway. The inner door, cut like the rest of the tomb in the lime- stone rock, leads to a second court, 53 ft. by 67, with a peristyle of pillars on either side, beMnd which are two closed corridors. That on the W. con- tains a pit and one small square room, and the opposite one has a similar chamber, which leads to a narrow passage, once closed in two places by masonry, and evidently used for a sepulolual purpose. Continuing through the second area, yon arrive at a porch whose arched summit, hollowed out of the rock, has the light form of a small segment of a circle; and from the surfeu^e of the iuner wall project the cornice and mouldings of an elegant doorway. This opens on the first hall, 53 ft. by 37, once supported by a double line of 4 pillars, dividing the nave (if it may so be called) from the aisles, with naif pillars as usual attached to the end walU. Another ornamented doorway leads to the second hall, 32 ft. cqnare, with two pillars in each row, disposed as in the former. Passing through another door you arrive at a small chamber, 21 ft. by 12, at whose end wall is a niche, formed of a series of jambs, receding successively to its centre. Here terminates the first line of direction. A square room lies on the left (entering) ; and on the right another succession of passages, or nanow apartments, leads to two fiights of siqMS, immediately before which is anottier door on the right. Beyond these is another passage, and a room containing a pit 45 ft. deep, which opens at about one-third of its depth on a lateral chamber. A third line of direction, at right angles with the former, turns to the tiAty and terminates in a room, at whose upper end is a squared pedestal. Betaming through this range of passages, and re-ascending the two •tainases, the door above alluded to ptewitB itself on the left band. You shortly arrive at a pit (opening on another set of rooms, beneath the level of the upper ground-plan), and, after passing it, a large square, surrounded by long passages, arrests the atten- tion of the curious visitor. At each angle is the figure of one of the eight following goddesses — Neith, Sat^, Isis, Nephthys, Nepte, Justice, Selk, and Athor — who, standing with outspread arms, preside over and protect the sacred enclosure, to which they front and are attached. Eleven niches, in six of which are small figures of different deities, oc- cur at intervals on the side walls, and the summit is crowned by a frieze of hieroglyphics. Three cham- bers lie behind this square, and the passage which goes round it descends on that side, and rejoins, by an ascend- ing talus on the next, the level of the front. A short distance beyond is the end of this part of the tomb; but the above-mentioned pit communi- cates with a subterranean passage opening on a vaulted chamber, from whose upper extremity another pit leads, downwards, to a second, and ultimately, through the ceiling of the last, upwards, to a third apartment, coming immediately below the centre of the square above noticed. It has one central niche, and seven on. either side, the whole loaded with hierogly- phical sculptures, which cover the walls in every part of this extensive tomb. An idea of its length, and conse- quently of the profusion of its orna- mental details, may be gathered from a statement of the total extent of each series of the passages, both in the upper and imder part of the excava- tion. From the entrance of the outer area to the first deviation from the original right line, is 820 ft. The total of the next range of passages to the chamber of the great pit is 177 ft. The third passage, at right angles to this last, is 60 f t ; that passing over the second pit is 125 ft. ; and adding to these three of the sides of the isolated square, t\\^ \o\a\. \«^'^^^,^\sv- dependent oi Wi^i \«AAiTo\ «2tk».\sJQfcT^. ^ The area, oi \\ve> w^Vvx^ esR».N^>ss^ 486 THEBES. Sect. vm. is 22,217 square feet, and with the chambers of the pits, 23,809 ; though, from the nature of its plan, the ground it occupies is nearly one acre and a quarter; an immoderate space for the sepulchre of one indi- vidual, even allowing that the members of his family shared a por- tion of its extent The date of this tomb is doubtful. In one of the side chambers is the royal name, which may possibly be of king Horus of the X VHIth Dynasty. If so, this wealthy priest might seem to have lived in the reign of that Pha- raoh ; but the style of the sculptures would rather confine his era to the later period of the XXVIth Dynasty. The wealth of private individuals who lived under this dynasty, and immediately before the Persian in- vasion, was very great; nor can any one, on visiting these tombs, doubt a fewjt corroborated by the testimony of Herodotus and other authors, who state that Egypt was most flourishing about the reign of Amasis. But though the labour and expense incurred in finishing them far exceed those of any other epoch, the execu- tion of the sculptures, charged with ornament and fretted with the most minute details, is far inferior to that in vogue during the reign of the XVIIIth Dynasty, when freedom of drawing was united with simplicity of effect. And the style of the subjects in the cata- combs of this last-mentioned era ex- cites our admiration, no less than the skLLl of the artists who designed them ; while few of those of the XXVIth Dynasty can be regarded with a similar satisfaction, at least by the eye of an Egyptian antiquary. One, however, of these tombs, bearing the name of an individual who lived under the first Psammetichus, deserves to be excepted, as the subjects there represented tend to throw considerable light on the man- ners and customs, the trades and em- ployments, of the Egyptians ; and there are Bome elegant and highly- finished eoaJpturesin the area of a tomb imme- diately behind that of Petamunoph. Tombs of Sheykh Abd-el-Koorneli.— Continuing in a southerly direction from the Assas^ef, another burying- ground is reached, consisting of tombs hollowed out of the hill c&Ued. 8heykh Abd-el-Koomeh, unmediately behind the Eameseum. The principle of these tombs is the same as those at Beni Hassan, — a chamber hollowed out in the rock to serve as a mortuary chapel, and a well leading from it to the vault in which reposed the mummied body. From a distance the great square doors of these tombs, extending in symmetrical order along the side of the hill, have all the appearance of the batteries of a fortress. Many of them are covered with most interesting sculptures, to give a detailed account of which, however, would take up too much space here. It will be sufficient to mention and describe some of the more important. Like the Tombs of the Kings, they were numbered by Sir G. Wilkinson, and the numbers still remain, and are known to the guides, who will conduct the visitor to those best worth seeing, and in the best state of repair. Nos. 16 and 35 ^ are considered the most interesting. Ko. 14 is much ruined, but remark- able as being the only one in which a drove of pigs is introduced. {See Wilkinson's * Ancient Egyptiscns,' vol. ii. p. 100, woodcut 360.) • They ar^ followed by a man holding a knotted^ whip in his hand, and would appear^, from the wild plants before them, to be a confirmation of Herodotus's ac" count of their employment to tread-irn the grain after the inundation ; whicb singular use of an animal so little io' clined by its habits to promote agri' cultural objects has been explained by supposing they were introduced before- hand, to clear the ground of the roots and fibres of the weeds which the water of the Nile had nourished on the irrigated soil. They are hero brought, with the other animals of the farmyard, to be registered by the scribes ; who, as usual, note down the nmnbeic oi \]^<& cf^acXK^ NsV^ssa. \^ ^^^^^ ftt all times permitted to eat those \ '* iio TSigY^^^aai ^w»J^.\a&V5k '^^s^^'^^^^ 488 THEBES. Sect, vm any species of animaL" There were no Greeks in Egypt at the time this Avas painted ; and the colour of the man (for the Egyptians were careful in distinguishing that of foreigners) is the same as usually given to the inhabitants of the valley of the Nile. Indeed the head is always met with, even in an Egyptian kitchen. On the opposite wall are some buffoons who dance to the sound of a drum, and other subjects. In No. 17 is a very rich as&ortment of vcues, necklaces, and other ornamental objects, on the innermost comer to the rt. (entering); and some scribes on the opposite wall take account of the cattle and possessions of the deceased. A forced passage leads to the adjoining tomb, where, at one end of the front chamber, are several in- teresting subjects, as chariot makers, sculptors, cabinet-makers, and various trades ; and at the other, two pyra- midal towers, with the tapering staffs to which streamers were usually at- tached, and with two sitting statues in front. On the opposite side a guest arrives in his chariot at the house of his friend, attended by six running- footmen, who carry his sandals, tablet, and st(X)l. "He is very late," and those who have already come to the entertainment are seated in the room, listening to a band of music, com- posed of the harp, guitar, double-pipe, lyre, and tambourine, accompanied by female choristers. Behind the Christian ruins, close to No. 23, are the remains of a curious Greek inscription, being the copy of a letter from the celebrated ** Athanasius, Archbishop of Alexandria, to the orthodox " monks at Thebes. No. 31 presents some curious sub- jects, among which are offerings of gold rings, eggs, apes, leopards, ivory, ebony, skins, and a camelopai'd, with several other interesting frescoes, un- fortunately much des&oyed. Over the eggs is the word soouM, in the hieroglyphica, signiiyiug " eggs." The namesi of the PJjaraohs here ivre Thothmes I. and III. In the inner room is a chase, and the chariot of the chasseur, partially preserved. In No. 33 the chief object worthy of notice is the fi^nire of a queen, wife of Thothmes III. and mother of Amunoph II., holding her young son in her lap, who tramples benea& his feet nine captives of nations he after- wards subdued. Before the canopy, under which they are seated, are a fan-bearer, some female attendants, and a minstrel who recites to the sound of a guitar the praises of the young king. On the corresponding wall is a collection of furniture and ornamental objects, with the figures of Amunoph II., his mother,- and Thothmes I. On the opposite waU an offering of ducks and other subjects are deserving of notice. No. 34 has the name of the same Amunoph and of Thothmes I., his immediate predecessor. It contains a curious design of a garden and vine- yard, with other subjects. The next tomb to this, on the south, though much ruined, offers some excel- lent drawing, particularly in some danc- ing figures to the left (entering), whose graceful attitudes remind us rather of the Greek than the Egyptian school; and indeed, were we not ensured by the name of Amunoph II. of the remote period at which they were executed, we might suppose them the production of a Greek pencil. {Se» Wilkinson's * Ancient Egyptians,* vol. i. p. 501, woodcut 261.) On the right-hand wall are some very elegant vases, of what has been called the Greek style, but common in the oldest tombs in Thebes. They are ornamented as usual with ara- besques and other devices. Indeed all these forms of vases, the ' so-called Tuscan border, and many of the painted ornaments which exist on Greek remains, are found on Egyptian monuments of the earliest epoch, long before the Exodus of the IsraeliteB; plainly removing all doubts as to .their original invention. Above these \ me cAMiVei^, <^\)2aQV\iiASsfi!re« and other TOMB OF REKHMARA. artisans. Others are employed in weighing gold and edlver rings, the property of the deceased. The Egyptian weights were an en- tire calf, the head of an ox (the half weight), and small oval balls (the quarter weights) ; and they had a very ingenious mode of preventing the scale from sinking, when the object they weighed was taken out, by means of a ring upon the beam. The semicircular knife used for cntting leather is precisely similar to that employed in Europe at the pre- sent day for the same purpose, of which there are several instances in other parts of Thebes; and another point is here satisfactorily established, that the Egyptian chariots were of wood, and not of bronze, as some have imagined. The person of this catacomb was a high-priest, but his name is erased. No. 85 — the Tomb of Rekhmara — is by far the most curious of all the private tombs in Thebes, since it throws more light on the manners and customs of the Egyptians than any hitherto discovered. In the Outer Chamber on the left hand (entering) is a grand procession of Ethiopian and Asiatic chiefs, bear- ing a tribute to the Egyptian monarch, Thothmes m. (See "Wilkinson's 'Ancient Egyptians,* vol. i. pi. ii.) They are arranged in five lines. The first or uppermost consists of blacks, and others of a red colour &om the country of Fount, who bring ivory, ^es^ leopards' skins, and dried fruits. Thea diess is short, similar to that of some of the Asiatic tribes, who are represented at Medeenet Haboo. In the second line are a people of a light red hue, with long black hair descending in ringlets over their shoulders, but without beards : their dress also consists of a short apron thrown round the lower part of the body, meeting and folding over in ftani, and they wear sandals richly worked. Their presents are vases of elegant form, ornamented with flowers, neddaces, and other costly gifts, which, according to the hieroglyphics, 489 they bring as "chosen (offerings) of the chiefs of the Gentiles of Kufa." In the third line are Ethir^pians, who are styled " Gentiles of the South." The leaders are dressed in the Egyp- tian costume, the others have a girdle of skin, with the hair, as usual, out- wards. They bring gold rings, and bap:s of precious stones (?) or rather gold-dust, hides, apes, leopards, ebony, ivory, ostrich eggs and plumes, a camelopard, hounds with handsome collars, and a drove of long-homed oxen. The fourth line is composed of men of a northern nation, clad in long white garments, with a blue border tied at the neck, and ornamented with a cross or other devices. On their head is either a close cap, or their natural hair, short, and of a red colour, and they have a small beard. Some bring long gloves, which, with their close sleeves, indicate as well as their white colour, that they are the inhabitants of a cold climate. Among other offerings are vases, similar to those of the Rufa, a chariot and horses, a bear, elephant, and ivory. Their name is Rotennoo, which reminds us of the Batheni of Arabia Petrsea ; but the style of their dress and the nature of their offerings require them to have come from a richer and more civilised country, probably much far- ther to the north. Xenophon mentions gloves in Persia. In the fifth line Egyptians lead the van, and are followed by women of Ethiopia (Gush), **the Gentiles of the South," carrying their children in a pannier suspended from their head. Behind these are the wives of the Eotennoo, who are dressed in long robes, divided into three sets of ample flounces. The offerings being placed in the presence of the monarch, who is seated on his throne at the upper part of the picture, an inventory is taken of them by the Eg3rptian scribes. Those op- posite the upper line consist of baskets of dried fruits, gold rings, and two obelisks. On the aecoTV^L \\w^ «t^ 'vw^^jXa^csv^ I rings of aWyex, ^o\i\. wcvCi «vVs^^ ^wsw*.^"^ 490 THEBES. Sect.Vin. very elegant form, and several heads of animals of the same metals. On the third are ostrich eggs and feathers, ehony, precious stones and rings of gold, an ape, several silver cups, ivory, leopard-sldns, ingots and rings of gold, sealed bags of precious stones or gold-dust, and other objects ; and on the fourth line are gold and silver rings, vases of the same metal, and of porcelain, with rare woods and various other rich presents. The Inner Chamber contains sub- jects of the most interesting and di- versified kind. Among them, on the left wall (entering), are cabinet-makers, carpenters, rope-makers, and sculp- tors, some of whom are engaged in levelling and squaring a stone, and others in finishing a sphinx, with two colossal statues of the king. The whole process of Brick-making is also introduced. Their bricks were made with a simple mould ; the stamp (for they bore the name of a king, or of some high-priest) was not on the pallet, but was apparently impressed on the upper surface previous to their drying. The makers are not, however, Jews, as some have supposed ; but of the countries mentioned in the sculp- tures. It is sufficiently interesting to find a subject illustrating so completely the description of the Jews and their taskmasters given in the Bible ; with- out striving to give it an importance to which it has no claim. {See Wil- kinson's * Ancient Egyptians,' vol. i. p. 344, woodcut 112.) Others are employed in heating a liquid over a charcoal fire, to which are applied, on either side, a pair of bellows. These are worked by the feet, the operator standing and press- ing them alternately, wliile he pulls up each exhausted skin by a string he holds in his hand. In one in- stance the man has left the bellows, but they are raised, as if full of air, which would imply a knowledge of the valve. Another singular fact is learnt from these paintings — their ac- quaintance with the use of glue — which is heated on the fire, and spread with a thick brush on a level piece of board. One of the "work- men then applies two pieces of differ- ent coloured wood to each other, and this circumstance seems to decide that glue is here intended to be repre- sented rather than a varnish or colour of any kind. On the right fjoaU (entering) the atti- tude of a maid-servant pouring ont some wine to a lady, one of the guests, and returning an empty cup to a black slave who stonds behind her, is ad- mirably portrayed; nor does it offer the stiff position of an Egyptian figure. And the manner in which the slave is drawn, holding a plate with her arm and hand revers^ is very characteristic of a custom peco- liar to the blacks. The guests are entertained by music, and the womeQ here sit apart from the men. Among other subjects on this vail worthy of notice may be mentioned a garden where the personage of the tomb is introduced in his boat, towed by his servants on a lake surrounded by Theban palms and date -trees. Numerous liturgies (or parentalia) are performed to the mummy of the de- ceased. At the upper end of the tomb a list of offerings are registered, with their names and number, in separate columns. The form of this inner chamber is singular, the roof ascending at a con- siderable angle towards the end wall; from below which the spectator, in looking towards the door, may ob- serve a striking effect of fiedse per- spective. In the upper part is a niche, or recess, at a considerable height above the pavement. In the Tomb of Keferhotep, a royal scribe, immediately below the isolated hill to the west of the entrance of the Assaseef, are some very curtotM sculptijbres. In the Outer Chamber is the most complete procession of boats of any met with in the catacombs of Thebes. Two of them contain the female relatives of the deceased, his sister being chief mourner. One has on board the mummy, d^MDglted in a shrine, to which a pric^ offers in- ci6na&\ m \k<& c^^xs»^ 494 THEBES. Sect. vm. which appears to have been introduced to obviate the shadow thrown by the sun, even when on a line with a plane - surface. The exterior angle thus formed by the intersecting lines of direction of either side of the face is about 3 degrees ; and this is one of many proofs of their attentive observa- tion of the phenomena of nature. Behind the remaining obelisk are two sitting Statues of Barneses IL, one on either side of the pylon or gateway ; but, like the former, they are much buried in the earth and sand accumu- lated around them. Near the N.W. extremity of the Propyla another similar colossus rears its head amidst the houses of the village, which also conceal a great portion of the interest- ing battle-scenes on the front of the towers. Many of these are very spirited ; and on the western tower is the camp, surrounded by a wall, re- presented by Egyptian shields, with a guard posted at the gate. Within are chariots, horses, and the spoil taken from the enemy, as well as the holy place that held the Egyptian ark in a tent ; instances of which are found on other monuments, as at Aboo Simbel. There is also the king's chariot, shaded by a large umbrella or parasol. At the doorway itself is the name of Sabaco, and on the abacus of the columns beyond, that of Ptolemy Phi- lopator, both added at a later epoch. Tlie Hall within, whose dimensions are about 190 ft. by 170, is surrounded by a peristyle, consisting of two rows of columns, now almost concealed by hovels, and the mosque of the village. The line of direction no longer con- tinues the same behind this court, the Ramesean front having been turned to the eastward ; which was done m order to facilitate its connection with the great temple of Kamak, as well as to avoid the vicinity of the river. Passing through the pylon of Amunoph, you arrive at the great Colonnade, where the names of this Pharaoh and of Amen-Toonkh are sculptured. The latter, however, has been effaced, as is generally the case wherever it ia met with, and those of Horua and of Sethi are introduced in its V stead. The length of the colonnade to the next court is about 170 ft., but its original breadth is still uncertain, nor can it be ascertained without con- siderable excavation. Indeed it can scarcely be confined to tlie line of the wall extending &om the pylon, which would restrict its breadth to 67 ft; but there is no part of the wall of the front court where it could have been attached, as the sculpture eontiniies to the very end of its angla The side-columns were probably never added. To this succeeds an area of 155 ft by 167, surrounded by a peristyle of 12 columns in length and the same in breadth, terminating in a covered portico of 32 columns, 57 ft. by 111. Behind this is a space occupying the whole breadth of the building, divided into chambers of different dimensiflOS} the centre one leading to a hall sap* ported by four columns, immedifttely before the entrance to the isolated sanctuary. ' On the E. of the hall is a chamber containing some curious sculpture, re* presenting the accoucTiement of Qneen Maut-ih-shoi, the mother of Amunoph. Two children nursed by the deity of the Nile are presented to Amen, the presiding divinity of Thebes; wd several other subjects relate to the singular triad worsliipped in this temple. The original Sanctiiary was perhaps destroyed by the Persians ; bnt the present one was rebuilt by Alexander (the son of Alexander, Ptolemy being governor of Egypt), and bears his name in the following dedicatory fi>^ mula: "This work (?) made he, the king of men, lord of the region^ Alexander, for his father Amen-rat V^ sident of Tdp^ (Thebes) ; he erected to him the sanctuary, a grand mansion, with repairs of sandstone, hewn, good, and hard stone, in lieu of? (that made by ?) his majesty, the king of men, Amunoph." Behind the sanctuary are two other sets of apartments, the larger ones supported Dy columns and ornamented with rich sculpture, much of which Egifpt. TEMPLE OF LUXOR — KARNAK. 495 Between this part and the great oolnnmar haU i^ one of the old cham- bers, measuring 34 ft. 6 by 57 ft. 1, with a semicircular niche. The walls are covered with Frescoes of late Boman time ; and it was evidently a oourt of law with the usual tribunal, in which are painted three figures larger than life wearing the toga and aandals. The centre one holds a staff or sceptre (scipio) in the right hand and a globe in the left ; and near him -was some object now defaced. The otiier two figures have each a scroll in one hand. On the walls to the right and left are the traces of figures, which are interesting from their cos- tmne; and on the side-wall to the E. are several soldiers with their horses, drawn with great spirit. The colours are mnch damaged by exposure, and the frescoes can hardly be distin- gnished. They probably date after tile age of Gonstantine. The costumes *are remarkable ; and some of the men wear embroidered upper garments, tight hose, and laced boots» or shoes tied over the instep. The false wain- scot, or dado, below, is richly coloured in imitation of porphyry and other stones incmsted in patterns, and is better preserved than the frescoes of the upper part, where the old gods of Egypt in oas-relief have outlived the paintings that once concealed them. There appear to be traces of a small cross painted at one side of the tribime, and the figures have a nimbus round their heads, but without any of the character of Christian saints. Nor was the nimbus confined to saints by the early Christians. ]Biehind the temple is a stone Quay, ai^Mtrently of the late era of the Ptolemies or Csesars, since blocks bearing the sculpture of the former have been used in its construction. OmKMdte the corner of the temple it taJces a more easterly direction, and points out the original course of the river, which continued across the plain DOW lying between it and the ruins of yft-mAlTj and which may be traced by the descent of the surface of that ground it gradually deserted. The mmtbem extremity of the quay is of brick (probably a Eoman addition), and indicates in like manner the former direction of the stream. m. Eaknae. The road to Karnak lies through fields oipoa or ^aZ/a-grass, indicating the site of ancient ruins. On a hillock to the right, just outside the town, is the Coptic cemetery, in which are some English graves. Farther on to the right is a mound, with the tomb of a sheykh called Aboo Jood; a little beyond which, to the S., are remains of columns and an old wall. Here and there, on approach- ing the temple, the direction of the Avenue of Sphinxes can be traced in the bed of a small canal or water- course, which the Nile, during the inundation, appropriates to its rising stream. This avenue was about a mile in length and bordered the whole way with sphinxes, some of which still exist. They have the head of a woman on a lion's body, and between their fore-feet is a statue of Amunoph III., who no doubt made this road at the same time that he built the prin- cipal part of the Temple of Luxor. Beyond the village of Kafr, the ave- nue turns slightly to the left, and from this point is bordered with sphinxes with rams' heads and called the Avenue of Criosphinxes. At the end of this avenue is a majestic Pyhn of Ptolemy Eitergetes, with his queen and sister Berenice, who in one instance present an offering to their predecessors and parents, Phil- adelphus and Arsinoe. In one of the compartments, within the doorway, the king is represented in a Greek cos- tume; instances of which are rare, even on Ptolemaic monuments. From this pylon another avenue of sphinxes leads to the Temple of Barneses HI., founded by that king, and continued by some of his successors, the hall of 8 columns having been built by Ra- meses XIII. The temple is dedicated to KAiOTiB, otl^ ol \.\xfe ^^"ftX. '\!>w^«asv triad. To Wie \fei\. ot ^ . 'jJI \i«ss& Xkhv- 1 pie is tYie sniaXV Tem-j^U oj ^wAT^^eaTV. 496 THEBES. West Sect. North A. First PropyloD. B. Open Area, with corrid a single column erect C. Second Propylon. D. Great HalL E. Third Propylon. F. Fourth Propylon. 6. Hall with Osiride figure H. Granite Sanctuary and ing chambers. I. Open Court. E. Columnar Edifice of Tb m. L. Temple of Bameses III. M. Temple of Sethi n. a. Sculptures of Sethi I. b. Sculptures of Shishak. c. Sculptures of Barneses I d. Small Obelisks. e. Laiige Obelisks. /. Pillars of Osirtasen L g. Hall of Ancestors. Bast Plan of Great Temple of Eiunak. a little chapel dedicated by that king i the Great Temple of which the to Atbor. cipal entrance is about five mind \ lV\e> ^, of the Temple of Rameaei The Great Temple.— We next leaclii \ T:\aft ei\\xwi«ca \v» ^-a. \.Vva K»W. Egypt. facing the river, and about ^ mile dis- tant from it. Plan of the jnsTwpZe.— From a raised platform commences an avenue of Criosphinxes, in some of which has been found the name of Rameses II., about 200 ft. in length, lead- ing to the Firtt Propylon (a), be- fore whicli stood two granite statues now mutilated and buried in the soil. One of the propylon towers retains a great part of its original height, but has lost its summit and cornice. In the upper part their solid walls have been perforated through their whole breadth, for the purpose of fastening the timbers that secured the flagstaffs usually placed in front of these pro- pyla ; but no sculptures have ever been added to either face, nor was the surface yet levelled to receive them. The total breadth of this enormous propylon is about 370 feet, and its depth 50 feet; the height of the standing tower is 140 feet. A narrow staircase leads up to the top, whence is obtained an excellent bird's-eye view of the ruins. Passing through the gateway of this propylon, you arrive at a large open area, the First Court (b), 275 It. by 329, with a covered corridor on either side, and a double line of columns down the centre, of which only one remains standing. The corridors are 50 feet high : that on the N. presents an even front of 18 columns, that on the S. is broken by a small Temple of Barneses III. (l), the entrance to which abuts on the great area. Between it and the second pylon in the S.E. angle of the court is a space, which has been called the JEfall of the Bubastites, from the sculptures on the walls containing the names of the kings of that dynasty. In the N.W. comer of this court are the remains of a small Temple of Sethi II. A flight of seven steps, on either side of which was a granite statue of Barneses II., only one of which now remains, much mutilated, led up to the entrance, through the Second Propylon (o), of The 0reat Hall (d), the largest md most magnificent of the old Egyp- ttsD moniunents. The lintel stones of fJ^)^.— Pir. IL] THE GREAT TEMPLE. 497 its doorway were 40 ft. 10 in. in length. It measures 170 ft. by 329, and is supported by a central avenue of 12 massive columns, 62 ft. high (without the plinth and abacus) and 11 ft. 6 in. diameter; besides 122 of smaller or (rather) less gigantic dimensions, 42 ft. 5 in. in height, and 28 ft. in circum- ference, distributed in nine lines of seven each wanting four : 134 columns in all. Originally the hall was roofed over, and the light only penetrated into it through the sort of clerestory, re- mains of which may still be seen on the S. side. The oldest king's name found in this hall is that of Sethi I., and he is generally credited with its construction, but there is some reason for supposing that it was projected byAmunoph III. The 12 central columns were originally 14, but the two westernmost have been enclosed within the front towers of the propylon. The two at the other end were also partly built into the project- ing wall of the doorway, as appears from their rough sides, which were left uneven for that purpose. Attached to this doorway are two other towers, closing the inner extremity of the hall. At the E. end of the Great Hall is a Third Propylon (e), much ruined, which served as the entrance to the temple up to the reign of Eameses I Through it we pass into a narrow un- covered court, extending along the whole width of the building in which stood Two Obelisks of red granite (d) about 75 ft. in height. One is thrown down and broken, the^other still stands. They bear on one side the name of Thothmes I. of the XVIUth Dynasty, and added at either side of the original inscription, another by Hameses II. of the XlXth, showing a difference of age of the sculptures of 250 years. To this court succeeds a Fourth Propylon (f) of smaller size, passing through the vestibule of which — about 40 ft. long — wo reach the Hall of Osiride Figures (g), surrounded by a peristyle of the pillars so called. In it are Two Obelisks of red granite (ji\ like the others, W\. c!l \ax% with the cartouche of Osirtasen I., of the Xllth Dynasty, in the midst of fallen archi- traves of the same era ; showing that the original construction of the sanc- tuary dates from that era. Further on in this open space are two pedestals of red granite. They may have sup- ported obelisks; but they are not square, like the basements of those monuments, and rather resemble, for this reason, the pedestals of statues. Their substructions are of limestone. At the end of this open court is the Columnar Edifice of TJiothmes III. (k) Its exterior wall is entirely destroyed except on the N. side. Parallel to the four outer walls is a row of square edifice, 32 in number: and in the centre are 20 columns, disposed in two lines, parallel to the back and front row of pillars. But the^position of the latter does not accord with the columns of the centre ; and an unusoal caprice has changed the established order of the architectural details, the capitals and cornices being reversed, without adding to the beauty or in- creasing the strength of the building. The latter, however, had the effect of admitting more light to the interior. Observe on some of the columns traces of the walls of a Christian church, built here after the abolition of idolatry. Several columns still bear pictures of saints, among which a figure resembling the conventional representations of St. Peter may be made out. Adjoining the S.W. angle of its front is a small room, conunonly called the Hali of Ancestors (g), from its having con- tained on its walls a bas-relief re- presenting King Thothmes III. mak- ing offerings to 56 of his predecessors. This valuable monument is now at Paris. A series of small halls and rooms occupy the extremity of the temple. In the southern side adytum are the vestiges of a colossal hawk, seated on a raised pedestal; the sculptures within and without containing the name of Alexander, by whose omer it was repaired and sculptured. The total dimensions of this port of the temple, behind the inner propylon of the grand hall, are 600 ft., oy about half that in breadth, making the total length, from the front propylon to the extremity of the waU of circuit, in- clusive, 1180 ft. And from tWs it will appear that Diodorus is fully justified in the following statement: that " the circuit of the most ancient of the four temples at Thebes measoied 13 stadia,'' or about IJ mile Enghsh. The thickness of the walls, "of 25 feet," owing to the great variety in their dimensions, is too vague to be noticed ; but the height he gives to the building of 45 cubits (67 ft.X i" for too little for the grand hkll, whidi, from the pavement to the sunmiit of the pillarSf going all round, witMn t\ie\Tcyoi\TtfiVvxwi^,\aT^Qtle88 tlian 80 ft. SgypL Cmnpatatt'De antiquity of tJte build- ings of the Great Temple, — ^No part, probably, remains of the earliest foun- dation of the temple; but the name of Osirtasen suffices to support its clfdm to great antiquity ; and if no monument remains at Thebes of the earliest dynasties, this may be ex- plained by the fact of its not haying been founded when the kings of the ]^amid period ruled at Memphis, lie original sanctuary, which was probably of sandstone, doubtless ex- isted in the reign of that monarch, and stood on the site of the present one, an opinion confirmed by our finding the oldest remains in that direction, as well as by the propor- tions of the courts and propyla, whose dimensions were necessarily made to accord with those of the previous parts, to which they were united. All is here on a limited scale, and the polygonal columns of Osirtasen evince the chaste style of architectiire in vogue at that early era. Subsequently to his reign were added the small chambers of Am- unoph I. Then Thothmes I. bmlt the court of Osiride columns, and put up the two obelisks in the open space outside it. The great obelisks inside the Osiride court were erected to his memory by his daughter Hatasoo, whose name also appears on the walls of some of the chambers near the sanctuary. The rest of these chambers were built by Thothmes 11. The succeeding monarch, Thothmes III., made con- siderable additions to the buildings and sculptures, and erected the great columnar edifice at the extreme east of the enclosure of the Great Temple. The sanctuary, destroyed by the Persians, and since rebuilt by Philip AridsBUS, was also of the same Pha- raoh; who seems to have been the first to build it of red granite, and a block of that stone which now forms part of the ceiling, and bears the name of the 3rd Thothmes, belonged most probably to the sanctuary he rebuilt. At the dose of his reign the temple only extended to the smaller obelisks ; before which were added, by Amunoph IIL, the iowera of the propylojiy whose THt: GKEAT T£M1>LE. 499 recesses for the fiagstafis, proving them to have been originally the front towers of the temple, are still visible on the W. face. The Great Hall was added by Sethi I., the 3rd king of the XlXth Dynasty ; and besides the innumerable bas- reliefs that adorn its walls, historical scenes, in the most finished and elegant style of Egyptian sculptiire, were designed on the exterior of the N. side. In the reign of Sethi's son, Bameses II., great additions were made. He completed the sculptures on the S. side of the Great Hall, and on the ex- terior of the wall of circuit. He also built the area in &ont, with massive propyla, preceded by granite colossi and an avenue of sphmxes. It may be worth noting in connection with this part of the building that on a statue in the Munich Museiun is an inscrip- tion giving £ui account of the career of the person represented, one Beken- khonsoo, '^ skilled in art, and the first prophet of Amen," in which the follow- ing passage occurs : — " I performed the best I coiild for the people of Amen, as architect of my lord. I executed the pylon * of Hameses H., the friend of Amen, who listens to those who pray to him ' (thus is he named), at the first gate of the Temple of Amen. I placed obelisks at the same made of granite. Their height reached to the vault of heaven. A propylon is before the same in sight of the city of Thebes, and ponds and gardens, with fiourishing trees. I made two great double doors of gold. Their height reaches to hea- ven. I caused to be made a double pair of great masts. I set them up in the splendid court in sight of his temple." Succeeding monarchs continued to display their piety, to gratify their own vanity, or to court the goodwill of the priesthood, by making additions to the buildings erected by their prede- cessors; 8knd the several isolated monimients, becoming attached to the principal pile, formed at length one immense whole, connected e\^«t. \s^ great aveiiuea ol «^\fi^<&'&.t otX^j cstvs^sn brick eiic\osvvtfe^. o 00 karnak: historical sculptitres. Sect. VUL The principal edifices united to the main temple by the successors of the 2nd Hameses are the three chambers below tlie front propylon, and the small but complete temple (l) on the "W. side of the large area ; the latter by Eamescs III., the former by his second predecessor, Sethi, or Osirei,!!. Several sculptures were added, during the XXIInd Dynasty, at the western cor- ner of the same area. The colmnns in this court, one alone of which is now standing, bear the name of Tir- hakab, Psammetichus II., and of Ptolemy Philopator ; and the gateway between them and the grand haU having been altered by Ptolemy Phys- con, additional sculptures, bearing his name, were inserted amidst those of the 2nd Kameses. On the left, as you enter, ho wears a Greek helmet. It will be seen from the above account that the earliest name found on any of the buildings of the Great Temple is that of Osirtasen I., and the latest that of Alexander II., whose name appears in one of the small chambers belonging to the colunmar edifice of Thothmes III. Historical Sonlptnres. — The princi- pal historical sculptures arc on the exterior of the Great Hall. They were commenced by Sethi I., and finished by his son Hameses II. Exterior of Great Hall — North Wall. — These relate to the campaigns of Sethi I., in tlie East. Beginning at the W. end (a) : the upper compartment represents the king attacking a fortified town situated on a rock, which is surrounded by a wood, and lies in the immediate vicinity of the mountains, whither the flying enemy drive off their herds on the ap- proacn of the Egyptisui army. The suite of it is entirely lost. In the first compartment of the second line, the king engages the enemy's infantry in the open field, and, having wounded their chief with a lance, entangles him with his bow- string and slays him with his sword. The OTttwing in these figures is remark- .Ab/j spiiitA ; and, aJLLowance \>oiTig made for the conyentional style oi tko \ Egyptians, it must be admitted that the principal groups in all these sabjects are admin^ly designed. In the seopad compartment (following the same line) the Egyptian hero, having alighted from his car, fights hand-in-hand with the chiefs of the hostile army : one haa already fallen beneath his spear, and, trampling on the prostrate foe, he seizes his companion, who is also des- tined to fall by his powerful hand. Returning in triumph, he leads before his car the fettered captives, whom he offers, with the spoil of the cities he has taken, to Amen-ra, the god of Thebes. This consists of vases, silver, gold, and other precious things, and whatever the monarch has been enabled to collect from the plunder of the conquered country. The lowest line commences with an encounter between the EgyptianB and the chariots and infantry of the Rotennoo. Their chief is wounded by the arrows of the Egyptian monarch, who closely pursues him, and disables one of his norses with a spear. He then attempts to quit his car, as his companion falls by his side covered with wounds. The rout of the hostile army is complete, and they fly in the utmost consternation. One is on horse- back. The victorious return of King Sethi is the next subject ; and, alight- ing from his chariot, he enters the temple of Amen-ra, to present his cap- tives and booty to the protectmg deity of Thebes. He then slays with a clijb the prisoners of the two- Qpitauered na- tions, in the presence of Ami^n-ra, the names of whose towns and districts are attached to other figures on the lower part of the wall. The order of the other historical subject conmiences at the N.E. angle* In the lower line tlie Egyptians attack the infantry of an Asiatic enemy in the open field, — the Roten- noo, whose dress and colour, if they are the same as those represented in the Thebem tombs, prove them to have inhabited a country very far to the N. of Egypt. The Egyptians sub- due them and make them captiYes; Olid. t\ielc inarch, perhaps during their ic\.\xiiv^ \a d^^s(:\^ >!2ax«Qk!^ ^ caries of Egypt. districts, some of which are at peace with, others tributary to, them. The inhabitants of one of these fortified cities come out to meet them, bringing presents of vases and bags of gold, which, with every demonstration of lespect, they lay before the monarch, as he advances through their country. He afterwards meets with opposition, and is obliged to attack a hostile army, and a strongly fortified town, situated on a high rock, and sur- rounded by water, with the exception of that part which is rendered inac- cessible by the steepness of the cliff on whose verge it is built. It seems to defy the Egyptian army, but the enemy are routed and sue for peace. (This is at the angle of tlie wall.) Their arms are a spear and battle- axe, and they are clad in a coat of mail, with a short and close dress. The name of the town Kanana (or Kanaan), and the early date of the first year of the king's reign, leave little room to doubt that the defeat of the Oanaanites is here represented. In the other compartments is repre- sented the return of the Pharaoh to Thebes, leading in triumph the cap- tives he has taken in the war, followed by his son and a " royal scribe," with a body of Egjrptian soldiers, " the royal attendants, who have accompanied him to the foreign land of the Kotennoo." The succession of countries and dis- tricts he passes through on his return is singularly but ingeniously detailed : a woody and well-watered country is indicated by trees emd lakes, and the consequence of each town by the size of the fort that represents it ; bearing a slight analogy to the simple style of description in Xenophon's retreat. The Nile is designated by the cro- codiles and fish peculiar to that river : and a bridge serves as a communica- tion with the opposite bank. This is very remarkable, as it shows they had bridges over the Nile at that early period ; but being drawn as seen from above, we cannot decide whether it was made with arches or rafters. A concourse of the priests and distin- guished inhabitants of a large city comes forth to greet his arrival ; and karnak: historical sculptures. 501 he then proceeds on foot to offer the spoil and captives he has taken to the deity. Though probable, it is by no means certain, that Thebes is here represented, especially as the name of that city does not occur in the hiero- glyphics. The deputation consists of the " priests and the chief men of the upper and lower countries ; " it should therefore rather refer to his entrance into Egypt; and Tanis would agree better with the hieroglyphics. But Thebes is more likely to be repre- sented in Theban sculptures. The battlemented edifices on the road, bearing the name of the king, appear to be out of Egjrpt ; and may either point out the places where he had a palace, or signify that they were tribu- tary to him. In the compartments of the upper line the Egyptians attack the enemy in the open field, and oblige them to take shelter in a fortified town, situ- ated on a lofty hill flanked by a lake of water. Near its banks and on the acclivity of the mountain, are several trees and caverns; amongst which some lie concealed, while others, alarmed for the fate of their city, throw dust on their heads, and endeavour to deprecate the wrath of the victor. The chariots are routed, and the king, having seized the hostile chief, smites off his head, which he holds by the beard. The pursuit of the enemy continues, and they take re- fuge amidst the lofty trees that crown the heights of their mountainous country. The Egyptians follow them to the woods, and heralds are sent by the king to offer them their lives, on condition of their future obedience to his will, and the payment of an annual tribute. The name of the place, called in the hieroglyphics Lemanon, is pro- bably Mount Lebanon (m and b being transmutable letters), though, from its being mentioned with the Rotennoo, it should be farther to the northward ; unless the Kotennoo were a Syrian people. Alighting from his car, he awaits their answer, which is brought by an Egjrptian officer, who on his return salutes his sovereign, and re- lates the success of his mission. In 502 KARNAK : THE GREAT TEMPLE AND Sect. Vlil. the third oompartment, the hero, who in the heat of the fight had alighted from his chariot, gives proofs of his physical powers as well as his courage, and grasps beneath each arm two captive chiefs ; while others, bound with ropes, follow to adorn his triumph, and grace the offerings of his victory to the god of Thebes. SotUh Wall.— At the W. end of this wall are some very interesting sculptures (6). They are near the ^teway leading into the open area. They commemorate a victorious cam- paign undertaken by the 1st king of the XXIInd Dynasty, Sheshonk I., the Shishak of the Bible, against Palestine. To the right Shishak is represented with upraised arm in the act of striking a group of captives at his feet. To the left, the god Amen of Thebes, and the Thebai'd, personified under the form of a woman holding a quiver, a box, and a mace, present themselves before him. Behind them are 150 persons whose heads alone are visible, their bodies being hidden by a sort of battlemented shield, on which is figured the plan of a fortified town. These 150 heads and shields, as we learn from the hieroglyphics, represent the towns taken by Shishak in his campaign. The name of Judah Melek on the 29th shield led Ghampollion to suppose that the head surmounting it was that of the King of Judah, Jero- boam, vanquished by SMshak. But M. Brugsch has shown that Judah Melek can only be considered, like the others, as the name of some place in Pales- tine. Indeed all the faces are of one type, intended no doubt to sym- bolise the general cast of features of the conquered people; though that, perhaps, can be found more distinctly traced in the physiognomies of the prisoners whom the conqueror is about to strike. Continuing eastwards along this same S. wall, we reaxsh a wall jutting out &om it at right angles, on the west face of which is a stela^ containing iiie treaty of peace concluded between JtameaeB IL and Ehetasir, king of the Khetaa, in the 21st year of the reign of the more interesting as containing the text of the first extradition treaty on record (see Brugsch's 'History of Egypt,* vol. ii. p. 68, and 'Eecords of the Past,' iv. 25). The incidents probably of the war which preceded this peace are sculptured on the main wall to the west of this side wall (c). And to the east of it, on the main wall, is a long column of hieroglyphics contain- ing the famous poem of Pentaoor, recounting the great feats of arms accomplished by Eameses II. This poem is repeated on the walls of the temples of Abydus, Luxor, and Aboo- Simbel, as well as here, and a copy of it is preserved in a papyrus in the British Museum. The first to present a translation of it to the world was M. de Rouge. An English translation of it will be found in Brugsch's ' History of Egypt,* vol. ii. p. 53, and in 'Records of the Past,* ii. 65. There are a variety of other warlike scenes, all more or less like those already described. Other Buildings and Bemains. — North Side. — The first ruins met with to the N. of the Great Hall are those of a little temple with the names of Psam- metichus.U. and Amasis. About 150 yards eastward of this are the remains of the small Temple of Ptah, in which are found the names of Thothmes HI., Eameses HI., Sabaco, Tirhaka, and two of the Ptolemies. This temple was built against the great exterior wall which surrounded the principal monimients at Kamak, and the re- mains of which can still be seen on the E., W., and S. sides. On the other side of this enclo- sure is the Temple of Amunoph III., dedicated to the same deity as the great temple. It was once adorned with elegant sculptures and two granite obe- lisks, but is now a confused heap of ruins, whose plan is with difficulty traced beneath its fallen walls. The entrance to it is on the N. and was approached by an avenue of ^hinxes, of which some are still in their places. They lead up to a well- proportioned pylon, bearing the ncunes and sculptures of Ptolemy Euergetes the former prince, TJie inscription iB\mt\vB^x^wft^«adtQil^\:dlo^ator; but it IB of a much earlier date than the BonlptoieB it bears, as attached to it are two statues of Rameses 11. It is the only portion of this building which hag remained uninjured ; and, though we may with reason attribute much of the ruinous condition of Thebes to the Persians, the names on this pylon, and many Ptolemaic additions to the tenaple of Amen, fully prove that its capture by Lathyrus was far more d^iimental to this city than the pre- vioos invasion of Cambyses. To the W. of the temple is a small I'Qildmg with the name of Necta- noboL £ad Side. — A little beyond the oolmmiar edifice of Thothmes III. are ^ ruins of a small temple, beyond ^bich a magnificent Pylon leads ^lliough the wall of enclosure. The Sculptures of it have never been ^^mpleted. In the doorway is the *^*ijne of Nectanebo, and on the upper g^rt of the S.E. side those of Ptolemy -^liiladelphus, and of Arsinoe, his sis- r^i and second wife. In the area with- ^Xi thifl gateway are a few other re- ^^^Jiins of the time of Sethi I., Rame- 5^« n,, Tirhakah, Ptolemy Physcon, "*-Honysu8, and Tiberius. All the ^^wund to the N.E. is covered with ^^ounds and crude-brick remains, ^iaiong which may be noticed the ^^ains of a Temple of Ptolemy Euer- ?^etei J. close to tne vOlage of Nega el- ""^^okanee ; and on the S.E. a small en- ^^osure with a door in each of its four ^^des, within which are some ruins, an inscription giving an account ' the invasion of Egypt by the Greeks the time of Meneptah. SouOh Bide,— Qlom to the S. wall of "J'lie eastern part of the Great Temple ^^ a crude-brick enclosure surrounding ^ lake, which still receives em annu£d ^JJtipply of water by infiltration from the ^^Ue, but is strongly impregnated with ^itre and oiiier salts, and stagnant ^uring the summer. This laJke is *iiied with masonry. To the S. of it ^i« the remains of some building with ^ names of Rameses II. and Psam- 'iMntbifli Aa4 to tbo 8.W, a^iu is a OTHER BUILDINGS AND REMAINS. 603 small building with a pylon, and bear- ing the names of Amunoph 11. and ni. Returning from these unimportant ruins to the S. end of the open court between the Great Hall and the Hall of Osiride Pillars, we have in front of us, looking S., a long avenue marked at certain distances by Four Pylons, resembling so many triumphal gates, and which was adorned by an avenue of Colossal Statues. All these pylons are more or less ruined, the first and fourth almost entirely so ; and only two of the statues remain in front of the second from the Great Temple. They all bear the names of the Thothmes^ and other kings of the XVHIth Dynasty. The third has the name of Horns cut over that of Amunoph IV. or Khoo-en- aten, the monarch represented in the grottoes of Tel el-Amama. From the last of these pylons an avenue of sphinxes leads to a crude- brick enclosure within which is another lake of semicircular form, and the ruins of the Temple of Maut, the second of the great The ban triad. This build- ing appears to have consisted of a pylon, leading into a court with ten columns, from which another pylon led into a second court, also with columns ; from this a vestibule with a double row of six colmnns opened into a row of chambers which constituted the sanctuary. It bears the names of Thothmes HI., Amunoph IH., Rameses U. and Tirhakah. Li the two first courts, and in the passages on the E. and W., are numerous Statues of PashU the lion-headed goddess, all of black granite and imiform in form and style. They are ranged close to one another along the wall, sometimes in one, sometimes in two rows. Most of them are without inscriptions, but some have the names of Amunoph lU. and Shes- honk. To the N.W. and S.E. of this enclosure are two smaller temples. The temple of Rameses III., pre- ceded by the pylon of Ptolemy Euer- getes by which we approached Kamak, and the other temple of the same monarch attached to the wall of th*\ area precedm^ \.\ia ^xe».\. ^iiJ5^\^»s^'5i boon aliijaOL^ mcuWowvi^, 504 EARNAE. Sect. VIII. This brief sketch will serve to give the traveller some idea of the various remains of Kamak. To unravel any complete and satisfactory plan from such a mass of ruin is almost a hopeless task. Perhaps the best way of viewing Kamak is to regard it simply as the most wonderful thing of its land in the world, alike for its size, its grandeur, and the incredible mass of ruins it presents. The destruction of Kamak has been variously attributed to the effects of an earthquake, to the reUgious ani- mosity of Cambyses and the Persians, and to the fury of Ptolemy Lathyrus, who was exasperated against his revol- ted Theban subjects for having stood a protracted siege of several months. One or all of these causes may have contri- buted towards the general destruction ; but it is possible that there is anotlier reason for it, which has been pointed out by M. Mariette. " Is it not pro- bable," he says, " that it (the destruc- tion of the Great Temple of Kamak) is the effect of the faults in its con- struction, and of its position with regard to the Nile and the surround- ing plain, the pavement being some 7 ft. below the soil ? The Pharaonic temples are indeed generally very carelessly built. The west pylon, for example, has settled down simply be> cause it was hollow; and, therefore, the inclination of its walls, instead of being a means of strengthening it, has merely helped its fall. It must be noted, besides, that Kamak, more than any other Egyptian temple, has for a long time suffered from infiltrations from the Nile, whose waters saturated with nitre eat into the sandstone. The temple of Kamak has thus suffered more than any other from the negligence of its builders, and more especially from its position with regard to the Nile : and as the same causes produce the same effects, the time may be foreseen when, vrith crasli after crash, the columns of the magni- ficent hypostyle hall, whose bases are already three parts eaten through, will fall, as have fallen the columns in the great court preceding it." ( 505 ) SECTION IX. THE VALLEY OF THE NILE FBOM THEBES TO THE FntST CATABACT (ASSOOAN AND FHILiE). PACK BouTB 20. Luxor (Thebes) to Assooin, the First Cataract, and Philse . 505 ROUTE 20. LUXOR (THEBES) TO ASSOOAN, THE FIRST CATARACT, AND PHIL/E. Miles. Luxor to Erment 8} Esneh 26 El-Kab (EUeithyias) .. .. 17J Edfoo 13| HagarSUsUeh 26 Kom Ombo 15 Assoodn 26| 133 PhilsB 5 There is nothing of any interest be- tween Luxor and Erment. (PT.) Erment, SJ m. The ruins of £rment, the ancient Hermonthis, lie at some distance from the river. The boat Usually stops close to a large sugar- factory on the W. bank, picturesquely surrounded by trees and gardens, and with a small village attached to it. The whole aspect of the coimtry here is very pretty. On the left bank are fine avenues of sycamore-figs, nmning alongside the river and inland; on the right are some picturesque villages with groups of trees, and bright patches of cultivation, while, as a background to the whole, rises the yellow desert and a splendid range of mountains. The ruins of Erment are hardly worth a visit. Extensive mounds mark the site of the old town, which was of very early origin. The large temple has been long destroyed, and its materials probably used in the construction of the Christian church whose remains can still be traced. The few ruins still standing are those of the mammeisij or " lying- in-house," where Reto, the second member of the triad of the place, gave birth to Horpi-ra, the infant child of that goddess and of Mentu. It was built by the celebrated Cleopatra, who is there accompanied by Neocsesar, or Csesarion, her son by Julius Csesar, and consisted of an exterior court, formed by two rows of columns con- nected by intercolumnar screens, a small transverse colonnade, serving as a portico, at right angles with the former, and the naos, which is divided into two chambers. Cleopatra was re- presented adoring Basis, the bull of Hermonthis. This sacred animal is found on the reverse of the coins of the Hermonthite nome. Its head is de- pressed, while that of Apis on the Memphite coins is raised, which may serve as a distinguishing mark when the legend containing the name of the nome has disappeared. There is also a reservoir cased with hewn stone, appertaining to the temple., the -water o^ '^\i\s^.,^«Q5^'^ %»:^^.,'^^^ used in. \i\a \i\mrtioo merely presents the names of ome of the early Csesars: those of Kberius Claudius Gsesar, Germanicus, md Autocrator C^sar Yespasianus, )ocurring in the dedication over the atrance; and those of Trajan, Adrian, md Antoninus in the interior. Men- ioa is also made of Thothmes IIL, by ffhom the original temple was perhaps founded, and dedicated to the ram- tieaded god, Elneph, here called Shoo. On the ceiling is a zodiac, similar to that of Denderah : and upon the pi- asters, on either side of the front row )f columns are several lines of hiero- l^lyphics, which are interesting from heir containing the names of the iigyptian months. The sculptures Je very inferior, and furnish another xample of the decline in the arts f engraving and sculpture which x>k place in Egypt under the Pto- dmies and the Csesars. Extensive mounds sufficiently prove tie size and consequence of ancient latopolis; but no remains are now isible, except the portico of the ample and the remains of a stone uay on the E. side. That the latter i of Roman date may be inferred rom the style of the building. Wansleb mentions the tombs of Christian martyrs, who were buried lear Esneh, and are believed to have •een put to death during the perse- utions of Diocletian. But report also tates that the Christians who fled rom Medeenet Haboo at the time of he Arab invasion, and were overtaken nd slain at Esneh, were buried in the unespoi Near Esneh are two ancient dayrs. hiyr Manaos wa Shenood^e, on the ., is of very early date, and the impress Helena is claimed as its sundress. There are several early ipulchral inscriptions worked into the alls. One circular stone bears tlie abarum and AA EI2 eEOBAHenN //. nother reads PEBEKKA. The church a mase of small domed chapels, and contains remains of very ancient fresco paintings with Coptic inscriptions. Dayr Amba MaUao8^ on the N., is two hours distant ; it contains nothing of any particular interest. (E.) Near the village of M-Helleh, on the opposite bank, stood the small town of CcnUra-Laton. The subcarbonate of soda, natron, is found in the vicinity of El-Helleh. The Ababdeh also bring from tiie eastern desert a talcose stone, ccdled hamr, for which there is a great de- mand throughout Upper Egypt, being peculiarly adapted to the manufacture of the hirdm, or earthen vessels for cooking, which have the power of re- sisting a great degree of heat, and are universally used by the peasants. It is the lapis ollaris of the Romans. The kamr is first pounded and sifted ; and, after being moistened and mixed with brickdust, is fashioned with the hand, and baked in a kiln heated to a proper temperature. But they have not yet become acquainted with the process of vitrifying their pottery, for which the Arabs were once so famous ; and the glazed earthenware now used in Egypt is imported jfrom foreign countries. (PF.) Seven miles above Esneh are mounds of an old town, now called Kom Ayr ; and four miles farther is EUKendn. A short distance above which, and about 14 m. from Esneh, is an ancient quay of hewn stone. Some suppose it to mark the site of Chnoubis. ( W.) Three miles beyond this, and a short distance from the river, is a ruined pyramid, called EUKooUi, It is built in degrees, and is composed of limestone blocks, from the rock on which, it stands, of irregular form, and hewn with little care. Though in a dilapidated state, 25 tiers still remain, and its total height, now reduced to about 35 ft., may perhaps originally have exceeded 50; the base being about 60 ft. square. (TT.) Four miles farther is El-Kom el - ahmar, or " the Red Mound." It marks the site of HieracmpoUs, which, as Strabo informs us^ waa 508 ROUTE 20. — LUXOR TO ASSOOAN AND PHILiE. SectH. opposite Eileithyias; and though little now exists of the ancient build- ings that once adorned the "City of the Hawks," the name of the first Osirtasen suffices to establish their claim to a very remote antiquity. About half a mile to the eastward of them is an Egyptian fortress of crude brick, with the usual double wall, the inner one being of considerable height. It has one entrance between two towers. In the hills about two-thirds of a mile to the S.W. of it are some rock- tombs, with hieroglyphics, mentioning "the land of the Hawks," of which one person is said to be the "High- priest." The name of Thothmes III. also occurs there. One of the stones that covered the pit in this priest's tomb still remains in sitv^ and on the outer wall are traces of dancing figures painted on the stucco. The small tombs here were perhaps intended for the sacred hawks. In some mounds to the E. of the fortress are two small brick arches, 2 ft. 7 in. broad, which appear to be very old ; and a quarter of a mile to E. of these are the mounds of the town (with the remains of poly- gonal columns of Osirtasen) already mentioned. Opposite El-Kendn commences the region of sandstone, whose compact and even grain induced the ancient Egyptians to employ it in the erection of most of the large buildings in Upper Egypt. (A'.) A short distance from El-Ma- hamid is an isolated rock, which was quarried at an early period, and on whose southern side the workmen^ have sculptured a few rude triglyphs. The rock presents a very picturesque appearance. {E.) Between this and El-Kab stood a small peripteral temple, which has suffered the fate of all the inter- esting ruins of Eileithyias. (^.) El-Kab, 17^ m. is the modem name of Eileithyids or EiXeidvias iroAis, " the City of Lucina," in the hiero- glyphs ^ekheb. The town was sur- rounded by a large crude-brick -wall; aad on the 8, side was anotViox en- closure, furnished with doorways of masonry, which contained the tempka, and a reservoir cased with hem stone. On the E. is an open spaee of considerable extent, also within the walls, which have several spar cious staircases, or inclined planca, leading to the parapet, as usual in the fortified towns of ancient Egypt Eileithyias was a very old city, tf is shown by the names of the kings found among the remains, which in- clude those of monarchs of the Vlth, Xnth, and XVinth Dynastia Ra shared with Lucina the worship of the city; but most of the dedi- cations, in the sacred buildings thit remain, only present the name of the goddess. The principal ruins consist of three temples which lie to the E. of the river in the desert, and may he visited in the order named. The first reached a short distance up the valley on the left is a Tcwjpfe of Barneses III., a small naos dedicated to Ea. A little farther is a small Ptolematc Temple partly built and partly excavated. It was consecrated to Lucina by Physcon or Euergetesn. and the courts in front were bdtt at a later period by Ptolemy Alex- ander I. ; who, with his mother Qeo- patra, added some of the sculptmea on the exterior of the subterranfian chamber. The front court is com- posed of columns united by inter- columnar screens, and opens by a pylon on a staircase of considerable length, having on each side a solid balustrade of masonry; and on ibe face of the rock, to the E. of the inner court, is a tablet of the time of Eameses II., who presents an offering to Ea and Lucina. On the isolated rock beyond iheee two temples are the names of Teta and Pepi of the Vltli Dynasty. About a mile farther on in the same valleT to the eastward, altogether about ^ miles from the river, is the Tasfl* o/ Amunoph IIL, also dedicated to Lucina. It consists of a single chain' ber supported by four columns, messst \mg 11 paces by 9, with a pavec \ i^\Q\>lorai cKi ^Oca^^ ^4fis^ and an opei ROUTK 20. — EL-KAB. EgypL urea in front) 8 paces by 17, formed by ooliimns and interoolumnar screens ; to which the pylon, connected with the body of the temple by a double row of columns, forms the entrance. The subjects of the interior are mostly o£ierings made by king Amu- Doph to the contemplar deities; and near the door are represented this Pharaoh and his father Thothmes lY. On one of the jambs of the door the name of king Sethi I. has usurped the place of his ancestor's prenomen ; and beyond, on the outside wall, is a tablet of the 41st year of Kameses II., in which the fourth son of that Pharaoh, a priest of Ftah, is attending his &ther in the capacity of fan-bearor. The drawing and painting in this little temple are very good, and in some places the colour is well pre- served. On returning from this ruin, and following the bed of the valley, nearly opposite the naos of Bameses, the geo- logist may examine the numerous ponds, on whose brink is found natron, or subcarbonate of soda. Or he may continue a little beyond the temple of Anmnoph HI., and then turn to the 1. down a broad valley, also filled with munerous natron . ponds, and which will bring him to. the river near the isolated rock above mentioned, about 2 m. below the crude-brick fortress near which he landed. The most interesting objects at Eileithyias are the Grottoes in the mountain to the N. of the ancient town, some of which date from the XUlth Dynasty. The third to the eastward is the Tomb of AahmeSj which from the in- scription which covers it is a most cunous and interesting chronological monument. We learn from it that Aahmes, the son of Abena, was a cap- tain of the fleet who took a prominent part in the war waged by Ainosis, the fonnder of the XVIIIth Dynasty, against the Hyksos, and assisted in the capture of their capital Avaris. He also served under the succeeding kings. The whole inscription has been trans- lated (see Brugsch*s * History of Jigypt,' voL 1. p. 248), and is of great 509 historical importance for the light which it tlirows on the obscure period between the end of the Xlllth and the beginning of the XVIIIth Dynas- ties. Above this grotto is the Tomb of Pahir, or Pheriy a grandson of Aahmes. He was governor of the nome, and his family seem to have held the same office during several generations. Pheri himself was *' nurse to a prince of the royal family" — Uetmes, the second son of King Amosis, who is represented sitting in his lap. This office also seems to have been to a certain extent hereditary in the family, as in one of the other tombs another Plieri is men- tioned as having held it. This tomb is in good preservation, containing coloured drawings relating to agricul- tural and other occupations of the early Egyptians. The outlines of the figures and the subjects here detailed, though of inferior style, are interest- ing. In the first line of the agricultural scene, on the western wall, the pea- sants are employed in ploughing and sowing; and from the car which is seen in the field, we are to infer that the owner of the land (who is also the individual of the tomb) has come to overlook them at their work. In the second line they reap wheat and doora; the distinction being pointed out by their respective heights. In the third is the carrying, and tritura, or trefui- ing-out the ear, which was generally performed throughout Egypt by means of oxen ; and the winnowing, measur- ing, and housing the grain. The doora or sorghiun was not submitted to the same process as the wheat, nor was it reaped by the sickle ; but after having been plucked up by the roots, was bound in sheaves, and carried to the threshing-floor, where, by means of a wooden beam, whose upper extremity was furnished with three or four prongs, the grain was stripped &om the stalks, which were forcibly drawn through them. The text accompany- ing these scenes gives the song sung by the labourers as they drive the oxen. The hieroglyphics have been differently deciphered and translated, but the following paraphrastic ren- ROUTE 20. — Lnsoit to assooan and philj!. SectlX. deting by Mr. Gliddon aptljr gives the Beose : '* Hie AloD^ oi«ii r (rrul the qum faster; Bolow aio tlie cattli and goats beloiigijig to which are brought to ho numbered and regiatered by his soribeB. In another part thoy weigh the gold, hU property; and fowling and fishing scenes, the occupation of salting fish and geese, the wine-press, bouts, u party of guests, the procession of the bier, and some sacred subjects occupj' the remainder of the wtdl. From these, and othei wo find that the hosts of mere richly coloured and siderable size. They mere fumish&i with at least tmebo or fourteen oars, and, besides a spacious cabin, there mas sufficient room to tahe on board a chariot and pair of horses, which we see here represented. Such were the painted boats that surprised the Arabs when they invaded the country. On the opposite side, the individual of tbo tomb, seated with bis wife on a handsome fauteuil, to which a favour- ite monkey is tied, entertains a party ' of his friends; the men and women seated apart. Music is introduced, as was customary at all Egyptian enter- tainments, but the only instruments hero are the double pipe, clappers, and harp. The greater part of the remaining tombs are very imperfectly preserved ; but some of them still present a few useful hints for the study of Egyptian chronology. One, much ruined, be- longed to Banni, who lived under one of the Sebekhoteps of the Xlllth Dy- nasty. The latest is perhag^a that of Bolau, priest of the goddess Neben, under Ramescs II. Those behind the bill arc not worthy of a visit To the S. of the ruins, near the rivei, nre the remains of a stone quay. Some time before rpsching Edfoo the propylon of its magniflcent temple can be seen towering up o (17.) EdAw, 13} m. (in Onb, Pkbaou, or Atbo ; in the hieroglypiiti it is called Teb), is the ancieBt,^ tinopolit Magna. The village is iM half a mile from the river-lwnk. In the middle of it stands tte Tsmple, entirely surrounded by nmi' huts and heaps of rubbish. It is (d) since 1861 that anything but the p» pylon has been visible. Up to tlit time its terraces and roofs were oovend with the mud-huts of the villsgai, and the inside filled with dAtii of >II kinds np to the root To clear it oti was one of the first works imdettakei by M. Mariette, after his appointnunl as conservator of the monnmmits of old Egypt, and director of the eii*- vations and researches in oonnec- tion with them. As a perfect spni- men of an Egyptian temple, oomptete in ell its parts, that of Edfoo rtsndt unrivalled ; for, though Dendenh >* as complete, so far as the utml temple is cencomed, the magnifiost propylon towers at Edfoo, md Ite wall of enclosure, are quite unique. The temple was founded by Ptolmj Flii]opatoi,who built the sanctuaiyind the chambers round it, and, indeed, all the back part of the temi^e. Tbe name of I'tolemy Fhilometei is ixmi in the centre halls, and their deem- tion is probably due to him. The portico was constructed by Ftolemj Fhilometer and Euergetes XL ; lt>^ latter of whom also boilt port of tbe wall of enclosure, the other part bdnj the work of Ptolemy Aleisnder L The pylon, or propylon, was Mf built or decorated by Ptolen^ Di<^ The whole length of the tmak, including the propylrai andthewaurf circuit, is about 450 ft. The breadtli of the propylon is about 250 fL sd^ height 115 ft. The hollows in iti o«t- side facade were for holding the hw flagslaos with which it was decoratw The Hail of the temple of Edibi resembles in its general features ibd of Denderah, and the same raliefM ideas and feelings which have Ma alluded to in the description of th* temple are evident here. Ifrom th \ ^W (.ui^ ^\l\i:^ \s ^Ronated will — TEMW.E OF KBFOO. 511 le soenea in imitation of those on earl7 Ptiaraomo temples, we pass the First SaU (b), Borrounded on ie eddes b; a peristyle of S2 columns. ^ walls of the pylon which form 8. Bide of this court aro two cloore, 1 opening on a staircaee of steps leadiag to the top of the in. These sbiircasoB ore lighted embrasures and arc divided into lages, each landing place having ini FUn Df Temple of Edfbo. e small store rooms. The View I the top of the pylon is very fine. Steond Haa (,0) has 18 colnnms, reen the first hue of which on et ride of the entrance is a high a eoreeo. The Third Sail (n) is Nirtedby 12 columns, and has small ifl opening from it on either side leaiung to ^e outsidn passage (h). A small chamber (e) follows, commV' nicating on either side with a stair- :ase, of which the one on the left goes itraight np to the roof, while that on ho right leads to numerous small ihambers and pa.sEages. Then comes inotlier small chamber (f), with a oom on each side ; and ' / w. I the it of which is a magnificent mo- nolith of grey granite. From the inscription on it we leam that it was made by Nectanebo I., of the XXXth Dynasty, to serve aa a naos to the old temple subsequently destroyed, and replaced by the actual on^ In this species of cage was kept the hawk, the emblem of the god Hor- Hat, who was the principal divinity of the temple. Bound this sre three small rooms. The inscriptions on them and the two preceding cham- bers, show that, aa at Denderah, they were need for the storing of religious atenails, oS'eriDp;s, Sic. (see p. 441). Round the whole of the temple, ex- tending from the First HaL, runs a magniticent wall, covered witJi in- scriptions. The Scttlpturee with which every part of this temple is covered are, many of them, extremely interesting, Somo of tliem contain valuable in- formation reapocting the ancient gei>- grapby of Egypt. Others giva the names of the several chambers of the temple, and their dimensions in cubits and parts of cubits, ao that the ancient Egyptian measurements can be com- pared with the modern ones. Close to tlie largo temple is a small one erected by Ptolemy Phyacon and Lathynts, but it is much damaged and defaced. Shooting, — During the winter months numerous geese, teal, and other wild- fowl frequent a sort of marsh or lake to the westward of Edfoo; and the sandbanks in the river are covered with aquatic Jjirda. Unless the ttaveUerhaa aboat, the only way of getting at the goeso is to go out before daybreak, and crouch under the lee of the large embankment running inland. As soon as day dawns, the ^eese ■wi'\ \e^si. flying in\an4 to t<«A, inna^ltvib »aiA.- 512 ROUTE 20. — LUXOR TO ASSOOAN AND PHILiE. Seci IX. banks where they have slept, and a good many shots may be had at them as they come flying low over the em- bankment. In the hill behind Edfoo is an old Coptic dayr. (E.) A short distance abovelEdfoo is Beideseeyeht a village at which resides one of the principal sheykhs of the Ababdeh Arabs, with whom arrange- ments can be made for visiting the emerald mines on the road to Bere- nice (see Rte. 12). At the second of the old stations on the road, about 12 miles inland from Redeseeyeh, is a Temple of Sethi I. dedicated to Amen. Though small, its sculptures are of a very good style ; and in the haU is a curious tablet of hieroglyphics bear- ing the date of the ninth year of this Pharaoh. It consists of a portico sup- ported by four columns, and a hall, with four pillars in the centre, at the end of which are three small cham- bers, or rather niches, each contain- ing three statues. Many visitors have written Greek inscriptions on its walls, most of which are ex-votos to Pan ; but one is remarkable as being of the soldiers quartered in the fortified station, whose thirteen names are in- scribed on one of the columns of the portico. (E.) Halfway from Edfoo to Ge^el Silsileh is a ruined town on the E. bank, called Booayh, once fortified with a wall flanked by round towers, not of very ancient date, and appa- rently throughout of Arab construc- tion. It may have been the site of Fithom or Toum, the ancient Thmuis ; though this should bo halfway between Edfoo and Ombos. Thmuis is evi- dently the Toomn of Ptolemy, who places it inland, 14' N. of Ombos, and 25' S. of Eileithyias. Some suppose Thmuis to be the same as Silsilis. Halfway between this fortified place and Tonab is a grotto in the ropk. (TK) Opposite Silweh, in a ravine called Shut el-Rdgel, Mr. Harris dis- covered a tablet containing the names of some kings of the Xlth Dynasty. Ife also found the names of Amu- jioph I. and the 1st and 2ndThothmeB; with others of much older date, but much defaced; and at El-Hoth an inscription beginning with the year 17 of AmenenLhat H. There are said to be other stelas in the neighbour-, hood, with the names of some old kings. (TT.) About 5 m. above Booaybthe hills come down to the bank and form a sort of bluff. They are called Gebd Ahoo Ghabah. Sharp gusts of wind often render the navigation under them rather dangerous. At Heshan are a stone quay and some quarries. (E. and W.) Gebel or Hfigar Silsileh, (Silsilis), 26 m., the "stone" or "mountain" "of the chain," is so called, according to an Arab tradition, from the navigation of the river at this spot having been stopped by a chain, which the jealousy of a king of the country ordered to be fastened across it. The narrowness of the river, and the appearance of a rock resembling a pillEur, to which the chain was thought to have been attached, and the ancient name SU- silis, so similar to the Arabic SUsiyh, doubtless gave rise to the tradition; and the Greek Silsilis was itself a corruption of the old Egyptian name, preserved in the Coptic Golgl. The breadth of the Nile here is only 1095 ft. at the narrowest part. Silsileh is remarkable for the im- mense Quarries of sandstone from which the blocks used in the greater part of the Egyptian temples were taken. They extend on both sides of the river, those on the E. bank being the most remarkable for their extent, and those on the W. for the eurions grottoes and inscriptions. The daha- beeyeh is usually moored to the W. bank, but it is easy to row over to the other side in the sandal, and no one fihould omit to do so. East hank. The most curious en- trance to the vast quarries on this bank is by a long passage cut in the rock, nearly opposite the Tablet of Menep- tah mentioned below. It is not by the size and extent of the monu- \itvevi\.a ol A3y^^ ^^S^t alone that we JBgypL route 20. — silsileh: QtrARRiEs aiTd grottoes. 513 are enabled to judge of the stupen- dous works executed by the ancient Egyptians: these quarries would snmce to prove the character they bore, were the gigantic ruins of Thebes and other cities no longer in existence; and safely may we apply the expression used by Pliny, in speak- ing of the porphyry quarries, to those of Silsilis : ^' quantislibet molibus csb- dendis sufficiunt lapidicinac.'' At the N. end of the quarries close to the river stood the ancient town of SiUUiSf of which nothing remains but the substructions of a stone building, probably a temple. West hank. The quarries on this side, less extensive than on the other, are remarkable for the way in which the excavations have been turned into sepulchral grottoes and chapels. The first Grotto to the N. con- sists of a long corridor, supported by four pillars, cut in the face of the rock, on which, as well as on the interior wall, are sculptured several tablets of hieroglyphics, bearing the names of different kings. It was com- menced by Horus, the last Pharaoh of the XVnith Dynasty, who has here commemorated his defeat of the Eush or Ethiopians. He is represented in a car, pursuing with bended bow the flying enemy, who, being com- pletely routed, sue for peace. He is then borne in a splendid shrine by the Egyptian chiefs, preceded by his troops, and by captives of the conquered nation ; a trumpeter having given the signal for the procession to march. Other soldiers are employed in bring- ing the prisoners they have captured ; and in another part the monarch is seen receiving the emblem of life from the god Amen-ra. One of the most perfect specimens of Egyptian sculpture during its best period is seen in the tableau repre- senting Horus as an infant suckled by a goddess. Unfortunately the paint- ings in this grotto are much injured by the smoke of torches, and by the fires often lighted by the sailors. There are other tablets ef the time of Bameaes II., of his son Mencptah, and other kings of the XlXtii Dynasty. In an historical point of view they are exceedingly interesting; particularly from the mention of assemblies held in the 30th, 34th, 37th, and 44th years of Rameses II„ from the presence of the name of Isinofri, the queen of Meneptah, being the same as that of his mother the second wife of Eameses; and from their relating to other sons of that conqueror. These tablets, like similar ones at Assooan, show that the stones used in different Egyptian buildings were taken from the Quarries in their vi- cinity ; but it must be observed that various other parts of the same sand- stone strata afforded their share of materials; as may be seen from the nimierous quarries about El-Hellal, and on the way to Silsilis, though but trifling when compared with the ex- tensive ones of this mountain. The earliest Egyptian edifices were principally erected of limestone, which continued in use occasionally, even in Upper Egypt, till the commencement of the XVlIIth Dynasty, though the Pharaohs of the Xllth had already introduced the sandstone of Silsilis to build the walls and colonnades of some of the larger temples ; and its fitness for masonry, its durability, and the evenness of its grain became so tho- roughly appreciated by their arohi- tects, during the XYIIIth and suc- ceeding Dynasties, that it was from that time almost exclusively used in building the monuments of the The- baid. But as its texture was less suited for the reception of colour than the smoother limestone, they prepared its surface with a coat of calcareous composition which, while it prevented the stone from imbibing an unneces- sary quantity of colour, afforded greater facility for tho execution of the out- lines. The subjects, when sculptured, either in relief or intaglio, were again coated with the same substance, to receive the final colouring; and the details of the figures and of the other objects could thereby be finished with a precision and delicacy in vain to be expected on the rough and absorbent surface of t\i^ «axA^\ib^^. 514 ROUTE 20. — LtrxoR TO AssooAN aud vexlm, SectK. and in some cases they can be washed off by a wet cloth, as in Belzoni's tomb at Thebes; but in other tombs they are often fixed, and sometimes have a varnish over the surface. There is, however, no evidence of any colour being mixed with oil, as some have imagined. The reds and yellows were ochre, but the greens and blues were extracted from copper, and though of a most beautiful hue, the quality was much coarser than either of the former, or their ivory black. The white is a very pure chalk, reduced to an impal- pable powder ; and the brown, orange, and other compound colours, were sim- ply formed by the combination of some of the above. Owing to their being mixed with water, they necessarily re- quired some protection, even in the dry climate of Egypt, against the contact of rain ; and so attentive were the builders to this point, that the inter- stices of the blocks which form the roofs of the temples, independent of their being well fitted together and cemented with a tenacious and com- pact mortar, were covered by an addi- tional piece of stone, let into a groove of about 8 in. in breadth, extending equally on either side of the line of their junction. However, the partial showers and occasional storms in Upper Egypt might affect the state of their painted walls, it was not sufficient to injure the stone itself, which still remains in its original state, even after so long a period, except where the damp, arising from earth impregnated with nitre, has penetrated through its gra- nular texture, as is here and there observable near the ground at Me- deenet Haboo, and in other ruins of the Thebaid. But exposure to the external atmosphere, which here ge- nerally affects calcareous substances, was found not to be injurious to the sandstone of Silsilis; and, like its neighbour the granite, it was only inferior to limestone in one respect, that the latter might remain buried for ages without being corroded by the salts of the earth; a fact with which the Egyptians, from baving used it in the substrnctlona of obe lisks and other granitic monumeoitg, were evidently well acquainted. Beyond the grotto above mentioned are others of smaller dimensions, which have served for sepulchres, and bear the names of the fibrst monarohs of the XVIIIth Dynasty : among which are those of the first and third Thoth- mes, and of Queen Amennoohet. The few sculptures found in them relate to offerings to the deceased, and some of the usual subjects of tombs ; and on a rock in the vicinity is the name of Meri-ra, the prenomen of Pepi, of the Vlth Dynasty. To the S. of these again are other tablets and open chapels, of very ele- gant form. They are ornamented with columns, having capitals resembling the bud of the water-plant, surmounted by an elegant Egyptian cornice, and in general style and design they very much resemble one another. The first is of the reign of Meneptah, the son and successor of Bsuneses 11. The second in that of Bameses himself^ and the third in that of his father Sethi I. The subjects of the two last are very similar, and their tablets date in the first year of either monarch. In the Chapel of BameseSj the king makes offerings to Amen-ra, Maut, and Khonso, the Theban triad ; and to Ba, Ptah, and Hapimoo (the god Nilns); the other contemplar deities being Savak, Mentu, Osiris, Moui, Jwtieey Tafne, Seb, Atmoo or Atum, Ehem, Athor, Thoth, Anouk^, and a few others, whose name and character aze less certain. The headdress of the last- mentioned goddess resembles that of one of the Mexican deities, projecting and curving over at the top like an in- verted bell. It is supposed to represent a mass of hemp ; which was probably an emblem of the Egyptian Vesta. In the principal picture Bameses presents an offering of incense to the Theban triad, and two vases of wine to Ba, Ptah, and the god Nile, who is here treated as the other divinities of Egypt. Indeed it is remarkable that he is only represented In this manner at Silsilis. He usually bears lotos- ;\pl8iata and water-jars, or the various - \ pTO^xxc^Vofta ol ¥i^^V«E&s2Rv^ the oma- Egypt. ROtJTE 20. — SlLSlLEfi — f AR^S. 515 mented devices at the bases of the walls in certain parts of the temples, or on the thrones of statues; and he fre- quently carries the emblems of the dif- ferent nomes and toparchies of Egypt. Isinofri, the queen of Bsuneses II., also holds forth two sistra before a curi- ous triad of deities ; and at the base of the side waUs the god Nilus is again introduced, carrying water-plants and various offerings, me produce of the irrigated land of Egypt. Some small tablets occur at the side of these chapels ; one of them of the time of Amunoph I., others of Me- neptah ; and a larger one of Bameses m. offering to Ba and Nilus. There is also a tablet of Sheshonk (Shishak), who is introduced by the goddess Maut to Amen, Ba, and Ptah, followed by his second son, the high- priest of Amen, who was silso a nuH- tary chief. Savak, the deity of Ombos, with the head of a crocodile, is the presiding god of Silsilis, and his titles of Lord of Ombos, and Lord of Silsilis, are fre- quently found alternating in the stelsB of these quarries. The blocks cut from the quarries were conveyed on rafts, or boats, to their place of destination, for the erec- tion of the temples. But the large masses of granite, for obelisks and colossi, if we may believe Herodotus, were not sent by water from Syene ; these seem to have been taken by land ; in mentioning one of the largest blocks ever cut by the Egyptians, he says it was conveyed from Elephantine (or rather Syene) by land, during the reign of Amasis, to the vicinity of Sais, and that it employed 2000 men for three years. The particular honour paid to the god Nilus at Silsilis was perhaps con- nected with the transmission of the blocks by water, which were there com- mitted to the charge of the river god ; but it may have originated in the peculiar character of the river itself in that part before the rocks of Silsilis gave way, and transferred the first cataract from Silsilis to Syene. This was probably some time in the reigns of the xnth DynoBty. (See p. 528.) Then indeed the great difference of ele- vation above and oelow Silsilis made a far more marked distinction between the Egyptian part of the river and that to the S. than at the present day be- tween the Nile below Assoodn and in Nubia ; and though this fact was un- known to Champollion, he with his usual sagacity gave a very similar rea- son, that the river at Silsilis ^* seems to make a second entrance into Egypt after having burst through the moun- tains that here oppose its passage, as it forced its way through the granite rocks at the cataract.'' In reality the analogy was stronger, as here was ori- ginaUy its great cataract, and its first entrance into Egypt ; and there is rea- son to believe that the most southerly nome of Egypt was origuially that of Apollinopolis. If any early records of the rise of the Nile could be found at SUsilis, they might point out the exact period when the rocks gave way ; and it would be interesting to find any evidences of the former level of the river immediately above Silsilis. ' Between SilsUis and Kom Ombo are a succession of sandbanks on which crocodiles may frequently be seen. The valley of the Nile now assumes quite a different aspect; indeed the change may be said to begin after leaving Edfoo. The two mountain chains which border the river draw closer together, and the cultivated land is reduced in many parts to a mere strip: indeed, here and there the desert comes down to the water's edge. At Fares, to the S. of Silsilis, are said to be the vestiges of a small temple, with the name of Antoninus ; and at this place some coffins of burnt clay have been found similar to a few met with at Thebes, made in the form of the body, in two parts, laced together with thongs or string. Farther on to the S., a Uttle before the river turns eastward towards Ombos, on the W. bank and nearly opposite Maneeha, is a mass of alluvial deposit ; and about 1 m. below Ombos is a bed of Egyptian pebbles, m^ Bi. te^ iows^^^sA^ ^5."vss\. 616 ROUTE 20. — LUXOR "TO ASSOOAN AND PHILJJ. Seoit. IX. (E.) Eom Omlx), 15 m., marks the site of the aDoient Omhos, in Coptic MhS. The ancient town and the more modem village which succeeded it, have both been buried beneath the sand. All that remains are some ruins of Tioo Temples that stood partly on raised ground, and partly on an arti- ficial platform liigh above the river. They are not pro&bly destined to re- main there very long, as, slowly but surely, the river is undermining the bank, and will carry them away. The (xreat Temple^ founded in the reign of Ptolemy Philometer, con- tinued by his brother Physcon (who is introduced as usual with his queens, the two Cleopatras), and nnished by Auletes, or Neus Dio- nysus, has the peculiarity of possessing two entrances, and two parallel sanc- tuaries. It is, in fact, a double temple, dedicated to the two hostile principles, of Light adored under the form of Horus, and Darkness under that of the crocodile-headed god Savak. The ap- pearance of the two winged globes over the entrance rather adds to the general effect. On the under surface of some of the architraves of the portico the figures have been left unfinished, and present a satisfactory specimen of the Egyp- tian mode of drawing them in squares, when the artists began their pictures. A similar arrangement is met with in some of the tombs at Thebes, of the time of the XVIHth and XlXth Dy- nasties; from which it appears that the proportions of the human figure differed at various periods. In these last the lower leg, from the plant of the foot to the centre of the knee, occupied six squares in height, and the whole figure to the top of the head 19 squares. At Ombos and in other Ptolemaic buildings the pro- portions are somewhat different, and the figure (as in the earliest, or Pyra- mid, period) is less elongated than in the XVIIIth and XlXth Dynasties. The difference in the character of the himian figure during the early Pyra- mld age is rather in its breadth com- pared to its height; and it is le- markable that statues were then leas conrentioDal, and bore a cloaer resem blance to nature, than in later times. The Little Temple standi on an arti- ficial platform towering above the river. It appears to have been dedicated to the crocodile-headed god Savak, by Ptolemy Physcon ; but the sculp- tures rather require it to have been, as M. Champollion supposes, an edifice " typifying the birthplace of the young god of the local triad." The grand gateway at the eastern extremity, for it stood at right angles with the other temple, bears the name of Auletes, by whom it was completed. It is, how- ever, now in so ruinous a state, that little can be traced of its original plan; but the pavement is seen in many places, laid upon stone substruc- tions, which extend considerably below it ; and some of the walls of the cham- bers composing the interior of the naos are partially preserved. From the frag- ments of columns, whose capitals re- sembled those of the portico of Den- derah, we are also enabled to ascertain the site of a grand hall which formed part of the building. The sacred precincts of the temples were surrounded by a strong Crude- hrick Enclosure^ much of which still remains; but from its crumbling materials, and the quantity of sand that has accumulated about it, the buildings now appear to stand in a hollow; though, on examination, the level of the area is found not to extend below the base of the waU. On the eastern face of this enclosure is a stone Gateway, dedicated to Savak, the Lord of Ombos, which bears the name of the 3rd Thothmes, and of Amennoohet. This satisfactorily proves that, though the ruins only date after the accession of the Ptolemies, or from about the year b.c. 173 to 60, there had previously existed a temple at Ombos, of an earlier epoch. Other remains of the same period are on the river-bank under the N. portico. At the S. end are interesting remains of a circular stair. Among the fallen stones some have fine carvings. One TTeptefienta a fowling scene on the Nila , \ T\ve -vxwpet ^«£\. ol \^^ %i^\e«^^ has - \ "been. aAAft^ Yirj ^ \B.\ft '^nSrsbx^ ^ ot \s^ Egypt BOUTE 20. — ^KOM-OMBO— ASSOOAN. 517 one of the CsBsars. From the site of it, belonging as it did to the original temple, we derive one of several proofs that the lowering of the Nile above Silsilis had taken place before the reign of Thothmes ; Ombos being built on the old alluvial deposit, which was then annually covered by the inun- dation; while the river, since that time, has never reached the summit of its banks. The mounds of the town and re- mains of houses extend considerably to the E. of this enclosure ; and, to judge from their appearance, Ombos must have suffered by fire, like many other cities of Upper Egypt. Opposite Kom Ombo is a large island called Mansooreeyeh. Sandgrouse and quail are often to be found in large numbers there. (^.) At Dtiawee is another encamp- ment of Ababdeh Arabs, as at Kede- aeeyeh, near Edfoo. Soon after passing Edfoo the valley of the Nile is confined within very narrow limits, and, though slightly enlarged in the vicinity of Ombos, the mountains again approach the Nile a little farther to the S. The general features of the country begin to re- semble Nubia, and this peculiarity of character is increased by the appear- ance of the water-wheels which occur at short intervals, instead of the pole and bucket. And, being generally protected from the sun by mats, they remind the traveller that he has al- ready reached a warmer climate. On several of the heights are small towers, particularly on the W. bank ; and here and there are quarries of sandstone, once worked by the ancient Egyptians. The junction of the sand- tiane and granite is observed about two- thirds of the way from Ombos to As- soc^, in the vicinity of El Khattdra ; from which point the former continues at intervals to present itself over the syenite, and other primitive beds, as at Assoo^ and in Nubia. The W. bank of the river has but a ▼ery narrow strip of cultivation, but the M bank presents, in one or two ftjfofy^ » wider expanse of land covered with palm-groves. The whole district is called AJcaba. The approach to Assooan is very picturesque. Keeping to the channel E. of the island of Elephantine, the boat runs up between islets of polished black rock, and, passing the town, moors to a sloping bank of sand just above it. At very low Nile the effect is marred by the large sand-banks at the mouth of the E. channel ; and so rapidly are these increasing, that they threaten to block the way altogether before long. Even now, large boats are obliged, when the river is low, to go by the channel W. of Elephantine, and come round by the top of the island. " For two or three miles below the town the banks are unusually fertile ; but Assoodn itself is set in a frame of more than ordinary barrenness and desolation. Immediately before it lies the island of Elephantine, a mosaic of vivid green, golden sand, and black syenite; but on the 1. bank opposite rises a high hill or mountain of sand, and on the rt. the town is shut in by confused heaps or small hills of syenite and granite, tossed about in all direc- tions, as if marking some fearful con- vulsion of primeval nature. The toe of the island comes below the town. . . When almost level with its foot, the boat is steered to the left, and enters the deep but comparatively narrow channel on which Assoodn stands. But even this is so cabined, cribbed, and confined by rocks, that the view does not extend 200 yards upwards from the mooring-ground of daha- beahs, and as his boat is made fast, it requires neither guide-book nor drago- man to announce that the cataract of the Nile is reached." — F. Eden. (E.) Assoolm or Aswan, 26^ miles The frontier town of Egypt proper, containing a population of about 4000 inhabitants. It is situated in lat. 24° 5' 25", on the rt. bank of the Nile, at the N. end of the 1st Cataract, and is distant about 580 miles from Cairo^ and 1^0 iiom. ^"^ '^2Mi «Ms\eo^ ^•>i^'^ SissSi 518 ROUTE 20. — LUXOR TO ASSOOXn AND PHIL^. Sect IX, opening/' The Arabs, as usual, have added an initial oZe/, and made the name Assoo^n. The town is well built, and some of the houses have a pic- turesque aspect not often seen in Upper Egypt. There is a good deal of move- ment in the bazsiars, owing to the con- stant passage of merchandise to and from the Sooddn and Central Africa. The produce of these countries, such as ivory, gum-arabic, ostrich fea- thers, skins, &c., which has been brought across the desert and down the Nile, is unshipped above the 1st Cataract, and brought on camels to Assooan, where it is reshipped for transport to Cairo, &c. This gives the river-bank at Assooan a very lively and busy aspect, covered as it often is with these articles of merchandise, guarded by various specimens of the African race, whom the traveller now sees for the first time. Indeed, the population of Assooan is more mixed, perhaps, than that of any other town in Egypt. Nubians or Barabras, Ababdeh and Bisharee Bedaween, Negroes of all sorts, together with Fellaheen, Greeks, Turks, and a few Copts, all may be seen on the bank at Assoodn. It is a great place for the sale, not of antiquities, but of ostrich feathers, ebony clubs, shields, silver rings, lances, arrows, said by the vend- ors to be poisoned, wicker baskets, Nubian ladies' costumes, and their articles of toilette, &c. History. — Assoodn contains but few mementos of its former history. Of the time when it supplied Egypt with the material for so many mag- nificent monuments, and its granite quarries must have swarmed with an army of workmen, no trace is left, except the names of one or two kings of the Xllth Dynasty on the rocbj in the neighbourhood. In the time of the Ptolemies, Syene became famous from being considered by the astronomers of Alexandria as lying immediately under the belief which arose from that the sun cast no shadow at Absoo^, combined with the measurement of the sun's shadow at Alexandria on the longest day, and the distance between the two places, that Eratosthenes based his calculations for the measurement of the earth. Later discoveries soon proved the tropic of Cancer to be 8. oi oyene ; and it is curious that Strabo, Seneca, Lucan, Pliny and others, should have thought Syene to be in the tropics, though it is very possible they may have seen the sun shining at the liottom of a Veil. Search hae been made for this well, but with- out success. A small Ptolemaic tem- ple has lately been discovered; it Ib situated at the bottom of a pit to the S. of the town. Under the Bomans, Syene was an important frontier town. Juvenal was banished there by Domi- tian, and revenged himself for being obliged to exchange the society oi Home for the command* of a cohort at the extremity of Egypt, by satirising with equal impartiality the Boman soldiers and the Egyptians. In the first ages of Christianity, Syene was the seat of a bishopric Arab writers describe Assooan as e flourishing town, and the story, if ii be true, that, in consequence of a pesi which destroyed more than 20,000 o: the inhabitants, a part of the old town was abandoned for the neighbouring hills, on which the Saracens had set- tled, shows it to have been a place of great size. But in the latter half of the Xllth centy., it suffered so severely from the depredations of the Nubians on the S., and the Bedaween on the N., that it was almost completely re- duced to ruins; and though it rose again a little when Sultan Selim placed a Turkish garrison in it, it never be- came of more importance than it is at present. Many of the inhabitants of Assoodn are descended &om these Turkish soldiers. Old B&maim.— -The wall projecting into the river, opposite the S. end of the modem town, is not, as has tropic; a ^e a/>aiuz25tezice that during the sum- \ been supposed, of Boman, but oi mer aolstice the rajs of the sun feUv Ma\) <»Ti'etoraB^cm., «ad has appa- vertically to the bottom of a well inXieiAly iotme^ ^«t\. Cil ^ \»ai. \s tae town, j^ ^^ ^^ ^3 knowledge \ one oi \Jm> wf the deceased, who is said to have ^^ed in the true faith; saying, "I witness that there is no deity \>nt God alone; he has no partner; cmd that Mohammed is the servant «uid apostle of God." Some end with "the diate, but in others, particularly "ihose of the earliest epochs, it occurs ebout the centre of the inscription. This is supposed to be the place of martyrs mentioned by Aboolfeda. Here, as at Fostat (Old Cairo), is a mosque of Amer. It only presents round arches, in imitation of the ordinary Byzantine-Greek, or the Roman, style of building, in vogue at the period of the Arab invasion ; but it is not alto- gether improbable that an attentive examination of the ancient Saracenic lead to the discovery of some early specimens of the pointed arch. The mosque called Gdmah BeUd has pointed arches, but it appears not to be older than 1077 a.d. ; those buildings with the date 400 a.h. or 1010 A.D. have round arches, but one of 420 A.H. or 1030 A.D. has both pointed and round. The corbelling of the domes is very simple. A short distance from the cemetery of Assooan is a small bank of that alluvial deposit so frequently seen on the road to Philse. Li some places small blocks of granite are lying upon its upper surface. The site of the town of Assooan, con- nected as it is with one end of the cluster of rocks through which the road leads to PhilsB, and in which the principal granite quarries are situated (bounded on the W. and S. by the Cataracts and the channel of PhilsB, on the E. by an open plain separating it from the range of mountains on that side), may have given rise to the fol- lowing passage of Pliny, which at first sight appears so singular: "Syene, ita vocatur peninsula ; " since we find that ancient authors frequently used 'peninsula and intula in the same sense as our word isolated ; and they even applied the term insula to a detached house. But the original site of Syene may really have been on an island, when the Nile during the inundation ran to the E. of it, if not also at other times. M. Lepsins, found some in- scriptions in the valley from which it woiid appear that in the reign of Amenemhat HI., and his two suc- cessors, the Nile rose higher here than at the present day, in one case as much as 26 ft. This must have been before the rocky barrier of Silsileh gave way, and points to a time when Nubia was immensely more extensive and populous than it is now. Granite Qwarrtes.— These are the most interesting objects in the neigh- bourhood of Assoodn. In one, that lies towards the S.E. of the Arab ceme- tery, is an OheUsh, which, having never been entirely detached from the rock, remains in «itu vdl ^Jensi o^osssr^. remains around this cemetery mightlT\iotowae,^\aOcL^«8^N^»'^^^=^\?^**^ 520 ROUTE 20. — LUXOR TO ASSOOAN AND PHILiE. Scct E. ance of being broken, was made in it at a later period. It would have been more than 95 ft. in height, and 11 ft. H in. in breadth in the largest part ; but this last was to have been reduced when finished. An inclined road leads to the summit of the hill to the S.E., and on the descent at the other side was a fallen pillar (now taken away), with a Latin inscription, stating that "new quarries had been discovered in the vicinity of PhilsB ; that many large pilasters and columns had been hewn from them during the reigns of Severus and Antoninus (Caracedla), and his mother Julia Donma ; " and that " this hill was under the tutelary protection of Jupiter - Hammon - Cenubis (or Kneph) and Juno" (or Sate'), the deities of Elephantine. In its original site, on the very hill it mentions, it was an interesting inscription ; removed to an European museum, how much of that interest is lost ! but often does the love of acquisition disregard the satisfaction that others might feel in visiting a local monument. Between this and the river is a large sarcophagus, which, having been broken, was left in the quarry, and various other remains, such as columns, chiefly unfinished. Besides these, several of the rocks about Assoodn bear the evident ap- pearance of having been quarried; and the marks of wedges, and the numerous tablets about this town, Elephantine, Philaa, and Biggeh, an- nounce the removal of the blocks, and the reign of the Pharaoh by whose or- ders they were hewn. Many of them are of a date previous to and after the accession of the XVIIIth Dynasty, while others bear the names of later monarchs of the XXVIth, immediately before the invasion of Oambyses ; but some merely record the victories of kings over the enemies of Egypt, or the ex-votos of pious visitors. It is curious to observe in these quarries the method adopted for cut- ting off the blocks. In some instances they appear to have used wooden wedges, as in India, which, being £nnly driven into holes ciit to receive them, along the whole line of thio stone, and saturated with water, broke it off by their equal pressure. Indeed, a trench seems to have been cut for this purpose, and the fact of the wedge- holes being frequently seen, where the stone is stiU unbroken, strongly con- firms this conjecture. The rocks about Syene are not, as might be expected, exclusively syenite, but, on the contrary, consist mostly of granite, with some syenite and a little porphyry. The difference be- tween the two former is this, that syenite is composed of felspw, quartz, and hornblende, instead of mica, or solely of felspar and quartz; and granite of felspar, quartz, and mica. According to some, the ingredients of syenite are quartz, felspar, mica, and hornblende ; but the syenite of antiquity, used for statues, was really granite. Indeed, many of the rocks of Syene contain all the four component parts ; and, from their differing con- siderably in their proportions, afford a variety of specimens for the collection of a mineralogist. The Environs of the town are sandy and barren, producing little else than palms ; grain, and almost every kind of provision, being brought, as in Aboolfeda's time, from other parts of the country. But the dates still re- tain the reputation they enjoyed in the days of Strabo ; and the palm of Ibreem is cultivated and thrives in the climate of the 1st Cataract. Dates are among the principal exports of Assooun, and senna, charcoal, henneh^ wicker baskets, and formerly slaved from the interior, from Abyssinia, and Upper Ethiopia, were sent from thenc0 to different parts of Lower Egypt. The Island of Elephantine is imme- diately opposite Assooan. It is called in Arabic Gezeeret Assooan, and in Nubian Sooan - Artiga, which both mean '•'• the Island of Assooan.'* It has also jthe name of Gezeeret-ez-Zaher, or "the Island of Flowers," from tho vegetation with which its northern end is covered. By ancient authors it is always called Elephantine, or £le- phantes. The ruins of the old town \foim «. W^'a \w3V3;n4, at the foot of ^ftjpt. ROUTE 20. — ^ISLAND OF ELEPHANTINB. 521 yrhioh is a modem village ; and there is another small village to the N. The inhabitants are all Nubians, and the traveller has here his first opportunity of observing their peculiarities in dress and appearance. At tne beginning of the present century there were the remains of two temples in Elephantine, one a very in- ter^ting one, built by Amunoph III. 3?hey were destroyed in 1822 by the U:ien governor of Assooan, in order to oljtain stone for building a palace. .The S^reater part of the NUometer which ^'ftood at the upper end of the island i^liared the same fate. The only ro- ^s^aains now left are a granite gateway V^earing the name of Alexander III., 'S^ear which is a badly cut statue with "C^e cartouche of Meneptah, the son «=fef Bameses 11. ; and a quay of Eoman ^3ate, in the construction of which have ^loeen used many blocks taken from ^oaxae ancient monuments. Elephantine had a garrison in the 'time of the Romans, as well as in the curlier times of the Persians and ^haraonic monarchs ; and it was from 'tiiis island that the lonians and Ca- lians, who had accompanied Psam- iQeticus, were sent forward into Ethiopia, to endeavour to bring back ^e Egyptian troops who had de- serted. Xhe south part of the island is ^'overed with the ruins of old houses *^d fragments of pottery, on many of ^lUch are Greek inscriptions in the ^Ujming hand. Some of these have *^en translated by Dr. S. Birch, and Sf e found to be receipts for taxes. "•^liey commence in the reign of Ves- l^^sian, A.D. 77, and are found a century |''?'"%er imder Varus. The peasants who "*^Ve there frequently find small bronzes ^^ rams, coins, and other objects of ^"^^tiqtdty, in removing the nitre of the J^oundfl which they use for agricul- ^"^tail purposes. ,^^ On the W. bank of the river opposite -^elephantine are a few remains which ^^Xark the site of Contra Syene; and ^^Kjut J mile inland up the valley are '^lie remains of an old building often ^^(^nented hy jackals and other beasts r The First Cataract.— All the Catar- acts — called by the Arabs esh-SheUdl — that obstruct the course of the Nile are really little more than a succes- sion of rapids, whirlpools, and eddies caused by rocks and islets. Those at Assooan are commonly known by the title of the "First Cataract," from their being the first reached on the way up the Nile. During the high Nile, all but the highest rocks are covered with water, and then it is possible for boats to sail up against what is little more than a very power- ful stream ; but as the river lowers, it becomes divided into numerous narrow channels, and the rapids and falls are produced which have obtained for it the formidable appellation of a cata- ract, and make the employment of towing-ropes and many hands neces- sary for getting a boat up. It would be difficult to account for the exaggerated report given from hearsay by Cicero, Seneca, and others, of the astounding noise made by this cataract, which was so great that people were stunned and deprived of their sense of hearing, were it not that, so recently as the last century, a traveller, Paul Lucas, speaks of the cataract pre- cipitating itself from the rocks with so much noise as to deafen the in- habitants for several leagues round. " Travellers* tales " are common to all periods of history. Perhaps the best known one in connection with this cataract is that of Herodotus, in which he recounts the story of tlie sources of the Nile told him by the treasurer of Minerva at Sai's : — how, between Syene and Elephantine, there were two conical hills, called Crophi and Mophi, between which lay un- fathomable fountains, whence flowed the Nile, southwards to Ethiopia, and northwards to the Mediterranean. The scenery of the cataracts is weird and desolate, but not without a certain beauty and grandeur, and it is worth while for those who do not intend to make the ascent to row about the northern end of it in the sandal. There are no i«:^\d& Vj^loft^ ^«M^vs3c^cc^'^ tlie Islaud of SeM^jl, ni\sss2q. Ss. ■«&&« I Testing irom \\vb tcqcsx^^ ^"^ ^sajst^ 522 ROUTE 20. — LUXOR TO ASSOOAN AND PHILiB. Sect. K. glyphic tablets soulptared on the rocks, many of which are of a very early period, including the names of kings of the XHIth, XVDIth, and three following Dynasties. They re- cord the passage of kings and others on their expeditions to the Soodan, and are of great historical value. The island was under the special protection of Sat^, Kneph, and Anouke'. The traveller whose intention is merely to visit PhilsB, without passing the cataract, will save himself some time and much trouble by going as far as this island in his boat, by which the ride to PhilsB is considerably shortened ; nor will he be prevented from seeing aU that the excursion from Assoodn presents worthy of notice, — which is confined to traces of the old road, the crude-brick wall that skirted and protected it, and the singular forms of the granite rocks, with inscriptions similar to those at Sehayl, which have struck every tra- veller since and previous to the time of Strabo. The Ascent and Descent of the Cataract. — These are incidents in the Nile voyage more exciting than plea- sant. The preliminaries that have to be gone through at Assoo^n previous to making the ascent are often tire- some and disagreeable. The traveller has alre€uly been told (see p. 389) that, if he intends to go as far as the 2nd Cataract, he must take care that the owner of the boat he, or his dragoman, hires, guarantees the possibility of its going up the 1st Cataract, and underts&es to pay a fine should it fail to do so. Sometimes it may happen that the Nile is so low that a boat, which would go up in an ordinary year, might run some risk of coming to grief in the more than usu- ally shallow rapids ; but often it is a trick of the owner who, not wishing to expose his boat to the perils of the cataract, has privately instructed his reis to bribe the sheykhs of the cataract to say that the boat is too large to be taken up. The traveller thus finds MmaeU stopped on his journey, or obliged to take a dirty country boat Those who have made a oontiaot with their dragoman, which is to in- clude the cost of going up the cata- ract, should leave the matter entiiely to him, and refuse to have anything to do with the discussion as to the price to be paid, or the backsheesh. Those who have to make their own bargain must submit with patience to the inevitable wrangling and delay with which all such afiiedrs are conducted in Egypt The contract must be made with one of the head sheykhs or reises of the cataracts, of whom there are three or four. The usual price asked is 31 for every 100 ardebs' burden. As most dahabeeyehs are from 200 to 800 ardebs, the total sunount will be from 61. to 92. ; but at least half as much will be asked for backsheesh; and from lOZ. to 151. may be reckoned as the total cost of going up the cata^ acts. The annoyances of the traveller aie not, however, over when the contract is made. Vexatious delays in start- ing, and detentions in the cataract itself the ascent of which often takes three days, when it might easily ^ done in one, try the patience sadly; but the only advice that can be givea is to take it quietiy, and make the best of it, and try to derive as much amusement as possible from the vari- ous scenes and incidents on the road. The governor of Assoodn may be re- sorted to with more or less eflfect as a final court of appeal, in case of any very serious difficulty with the Shelldlee, as the people are called who live in the few scattered villages in and around the cataracts, and noanage the passage of boats up and down it It is necessary for the Ascent qf^ Catara^st that the wind should be fitf » but not too strong. As far as the island of Sehayl it is tolerably easy sailing against a strong stream. Th^ the first of the falls or " gates," as they are called (5ig gate, and the turn at the bottom is a place where a boat may easily get a hole knocked into it, if nothing worse. Coming up, it is a question of enough men and the rope not breaking; and even if anything does happen, it is wonderful how the helmsman manages so that the boat is brought up short in her downward course by a cross stream or a back- water. Those who want to see their boat go down the big fall without being on board her, should be rowed in the sandal to a point just above it. They can then, from the top of the rock to the left of the passage, see the whole thing capitally. If there are \ things of value on board, such as in- struments, collections of skins, &c., the most prudent course is to send them between Mahattah and Assooan over- land. Those who are detained in the cataract may find some coots and teal 524 ROUTE 20. — LUXOR TO ASSOOAN AND PHILiE. Sect. IX. to shoot; and patient search will occa- sionally be rewarded with the sight of a crocodile, a warran or water-liz£^, and a species of leathery turtle {Trionyx Niloticus), (E.) Mdhattah. A small village, of which mention has already been made, situated just above the cataracts. Like As8ooan,it is the place for the embarking and disembarking of the cargoes that are transhipped from the different boats above and below the cataract. There are always a number of Nubian boats there employed in the trade between the Ist and 2nd Cataracts. They are a very inferior class of boat to the smart modern Egyptian daha- beeyeh ; but there are a few big ones, not very clean, and with hardly any furniture, which can be hired for the voyage to the 2nd Cataract and back, with an allowance of four days' stop- pages, for 12Z., and a small backsheesh to the captain and crew. The pilot who always accompanies the dahabeeyeh in its voyage between the 1st and 2nd Cataracts generally comes from this village, and is taken on board in passing. His fee, which is included in a dragoman's contract, is, with back- sheesh, from 21. lOs. to 31, Island of FhilsB, 5 m. — ^Those who visit PhilsB from Assoodn can either take a boat from Mahattah, or from a point some way farther up the bank, just opposite the island. A bargain should be made beforehand with the boatmen. The approach to the island by water is very striking. The river winds in and out among gigantic black rocks of most fantastic form and shape, and then suddenly, after a sharp turn or two, PhilsB comes suddenly in sight. "Beautiful" is the epithet commonly applied to this spot, justly considered to present the finest bit of scenery on the Nile ; but the beauty, or rather grandeur, is more in the framework of the picture than in the picture itself. The view from the top of the propylon tower at PhilsB, of all beyond the island, is far £ner than the view of PhilsB itself /ro/22 any point Pildk, or AilaJc, and Ma-n-Uk, "the Place of the Frontier." Its Greek ap- pellation PhilsB is a strange misnomer. The Arabs call it Ancu d Wogdod, or more generally Gezeeret d-Beerbek. The whole length of the island is about 400 yards, and its breadth 140. The usual landing-place from a small boat is at the N. end; but dahabee- yehs generally moor to the E. bank. The whole surface of the island is covered with ruins, but some of them are of earlier date, so far as has hither- to been ascertained, than the XXXth Dynasty (361 B.C.). Buins. — A very good general idea of them can be obtained from the top of the granite rock at the S. end of the island. Beginning at this end, at the W. comer is the Chapel of Nectaneho (a), dedicated to Isis. This is the oldest ruin on the island. In front of it stood ten small obelisks, of which one remains broken in half. There are 14 columns with the usual lotos and papyrus, two capitals surmounted by iJie head of Athor. On the E. door are traces of colour. On the right of this building is a staircase (&)> still partly preserved, which was no doubt the landing-place leading up to The Great Temple of Isis, the prin- cipal building on the island. It was commenced by Ptolemy Phi- ladelphus and Arsinoe, and completed by succeeding monarchs; among whom are Euergetes I. , Philometor , his brother Euergetes II., with the two Cleopatras, and Ptolemy the elder son of Auletes, whose name is found in the area and on the pylon. Many of the sculptures on the exterior are of the later epoch of the Roman emperors, Augustus, Tiberius, Claudius, Domitian, Nerva, and Trajan. Nowhere has the mania of the Egyptians for irregularity been carried to such an extent as here. "No Gothic architect in his wildest mo- ments ever played so freely with his lines and dimensions, and none, it must be added, ever produced anything so beautifully picturesque as this. It contains all the play of light and BYioude, «ll the variety of GcShic art Jo Egyptian the Ula;a^ y(Q& iiieS\i^^\^\S^ Spl. ROUlE 20.— PHlL^: GREAT TEMPLE OF ISIS. 525 ptUu style : and as it is still ] impTeBsiou of Egyptian art as tliis. It bl; entile, and rel&ina mnch of JU trueitisfarlesssublimethsiiiman'], lour, there is no building oat of but baldly one CMi \i6 (^uA«& «a rosnti ra tliaf gircH so favourable on 1 beautiful?' — J, FergnMim, 526 ROUTE 20. — LtJXOR TO ASSOOAN AND PmLM. Sect. X. The temple was approached by two corridors of unequal length, and not parallel to one another. The West Corridor (c) begins near the Chapel of Nectanebo, and runs along the bank close to the river-wall. It has 32 columns, with capitals of different forms. On the roof are gold stars on a blue ground. Both here and in some of the sculptures on the walls representing Tiberius, Caligula and Claudius, the colours are well pre- served. Between the eleventh and twelfth columns a staircase leads to a postern immediately above the river- side. The East Corridor (d), which is of more recent date still, has only 16 columns with unfinished capitals. It is preceded by a building of which only the foundations remain, but which seems to have consisted of several chambers, and ends in a small Chapel of Mscula'pius (e), of which the doors are covered with figures and inscrip- tions. One Greek inscription tells us that the chapel was dedicated by Pto- lemy Epipbanes and Cleopatra to -^sculapius, i. e. Imhotep, son of Ptah and Pasht. Advancing over a mass of ruins, among which may be noticed the remains of two granite lions, and the pedestals of obelisks, we arrive at the First PropyUm (/), the two massive towers of which are 120 feet wide and 60 feet high. On its exterior face are colossal sculptures of divinities and Ptolemy Philometor swinging his battle-axe over a batch of bound pri- soners. Near the bottom are a series of figures representing the god Nilus carrying various emblems, on which are the names of various towns and districts in Egypt. The name of Nec- tanebo II. is found in this pylon. On the left, or W. side of the gateway as we pass through it are sculptured some small figures, and a colossal one of Isis ; and on the right or E. side is a tablet put up by the French army under Desaix, to commemorate their reaching this point during the expe- dition to Egypt at the end of the last century. Through the pylon we pass ^to a large Court (g), on the E. of wliiob IB a porticoj and on the W. a small temple, while another pylon closes its N. end. The Portico (h) was begun by Ptolemy Philometor, continued by his successors, and finished by Tiberius. It consists of 10 columns, and to the E. of it were several chambers, each with a door opening into it from the portico. In the southernmost of these chcunbers, the one next to the propylon, is a staircase leading to several rooms and on to the roof of the propylon, from which there is a magnificent Vieio. The northernmost of these chambers is larger than the others, and is sup- posed to have been the library. The Temple.(i) on the W. side of the court was the mammeisiy of which we have seen instances at Denderah and else- where. It was built by Ptolemy Euergetes, and consists of uiree cham- bers surrounded by a portico. In all the chambers are the representations usual in these mammeisi of the birth of Horus. The portico on the W. side was decorated by Tiberius, and contains representations of a great nimiber of divinities. On the wall of the E. side is a copy of the inscrip- tion contained in the famous Bosetta stone, but only the demotic and hiero- glyphic text are given without the Greek. To the large court succeeds a Second Propylon (f) of smaller di- mensions than the &rst. Its eastern tower stands on a granite rock, whose face has been cut into the form of a tablet, and bears an inscription in which are mentioned the grants of land made to the temple by Ptolemy Philometor and Ptolemy Euergetes II. The gate of this propylon leads into a Double Portico (fe) with 10 gigantic columns, remarkable for the briUiancy of the Colours still remaining on their capitals. The walls and ceiling are covered with astronomical and other subjects, and the figures of divinities. The presence of a cross in this and other parts of the temple may be taken as evidence of the existence of the Church of St. Stephen, into which this temple is said to have been turned at the end of the 6th century. After tYiia i^T^QO c^QT[i<& M^Kt^i^ ohamben in HOUTt: 20.— PHlLiE — filGGEH — KONOSSO. igypi. Sondwiry (2). In it is a monolithic granite dbrine. On the wall is a re- presentation of Ptolemy Philadelphus, melded by Isis. On either side of these chambers are other rooms, in the first of which on the right will be found the latitude and longitude of the island, as taken by the scientific J&embers of the French expedition. ITear this room is the entrance to erypts and hidden passages, similar to those at Denderah. From the cor- nsponding lateral chamber on the opposite side a staircase leads up to a tonraoe. On the left, at the top of ttie staircase, is a small room covered irith interesting sculptures relating to the death and resurrection of Osiris. From a Greek ex-voto in this cham- ber we learn the interesting fact that the worship of Isis and Osiris was still earned on at PhilsB in a.d. 453, more than 70 years after the famous edict of Theodosius abolishing the Egyptian seligion. This fact may also be gatnered from some of the other nu- neious ex-votos inscribed on the walls of the pylon and other parts of the temple. The ruin of the temple is attributed to Justinian. Other Buins. — On the W. side of the idand, in a line with the second pylon of the Great Temple is a ruined build- i&g (m) of no importance. Passing over to the E. side we come to the heautifol hypxthral temple commonly eaUed « Pharaoh's bed *' (n). It is an oblong rectangular building of late ^ate surrounded by an intercolumnar *oreen with 14 columns. There is a ^rway in the W. wall, and one in the E. wall opening on to the stone tenace or quay which appears to have extended nearly all round the island. Another portion of this terrace is seen to the N. of this temple, and behind it is a very small temple (o) built by Ftolemy Physoon. Still ferther N. are the remains of what appears to have been an aiched gate (j?) with steps down to the river. This was probably ihe principal landing-place of the islaiid. It is close by here that daha- beeyehB usually moor. The omde-briclr miDB which cover 527 the island are mostly of Christian time ; and among them may be seen some small pointed arches; similar to those at Medeenet Haboo in Thebes, and in other early Christian villages, which probably date about the time of the Arab invasion in the 7th century a.d. Besides the Church of St. Stephen, already spoken of as having, been formed out of a part of the large temple, another church stood at the N.E. cor- ner of the island, and it is evident that the early Christians occupied both this island and Biggeh, and converted the temples into churches, concealing with a coating of clay or mortar the objects of worship of their pagan predecessors. The Island of Biggeh lies to the W. of PhilsB. It is called Senem in the hieroglyphics, and appears afterwards to have borne the Greek name of Abaton, "inaccessible," though Plu- tarch seems to apply that name, at least in one sense, to PhilsB, when he says that " it is inaccessible and un- approachable . . . except when the priests go to crown the Tomb of Osiris. From the number of inscriptions it is evident that Biggeh was from a very early period considered as a sacred place, and the presence of a red granite statue with the oval of Amunoph II. of the XVIIIth Dynasty points to the existence here of a temple of ancient date. The only building remaining is the small Temple of Athor in front of the statue, built by Ptolemy Euer- getes I. It was subsequently turned into a church, to which period the arch in the centre belongs. Most of the inscriptions refer to the functionaries sent to govern the land of Cush, that is the Greek Ethiopia, the modem Nubia. They begin from the time of the XVmth Dynasty. On the E. side of the island, facing PhilsB, is a granite stela with the name of Psam- metichus I. There is a capital View of the temple of PhilsB &om the high rocks at the S. end of Biggeh. laland of Kjohmio.—- Tti<& T^ss^iNkitisc^ end of BigwjEjYv \>«5«aiR» ^ ^«^Ms\fo 528 ROUTE 20.— mxOK tc ialaikd daring the inaDdation, and ia ' called KoDossD. Among tho iniiciip- < tioDs on it ia A tablet vim the name of i & Meutniiotep Banebtani of the Xlth ' Dynasty, described as the conqneior of thirteen nations and the devoted set- TBnt of Khem. From a high ridge of rocks, at the eitreme N. end of this uland, there is a magnificent Viev over the upper end of the cataract and the village of Mabattah. The rocks here and at Biggeh are well worth clambering overribr the eake of the pretty views which can bo obtained. On the E. bank, opposite Fhilee, are some mounds, and the remains ot a stela and monolith of granite ; the former bearing the name of the 2Dd PsanunetichuB, and consecrated to Kneph and Sate. A little diBtanoe to the S. of thiB are miLsees of old ulluvium deposited there by the Nile before its level waa lowered by the fall of the rocliB at BilsUis. From its irregularity, and the sndden depressions in it, the accident proliably happened while the river was high and it ha« also the appearance o: liaving been hollowed out by a sudden rush of water from the surface, general level is about 28 ft. above the greatest inundation of these days, and that of the highest masses ia about 10 ft. more. Standing here, you at on perceive that when the rivet was that height it ran straight forward over the plain between the eastem ) PHiLfi. Sect. IX. mountains and Asaooon. Other re- maiuB of this alluvium are found on the road from Assoo&n to Fhilie. The river at that time may also have Bowed by the other channel through the Cataracts ; and the two atreams joined each other some way lower down, near Efh-Shaym^, where the stains approach the Nile, opposite the Sheyklrs tomb on the western hill, called Kf^el ElrH6\ca. The old alluvial deposit may be traced throughout Ethiopia, high above the reach of the present inundation. There is a rock opposite the N. end of Philie, remarkable for its elevated appearance and general form ; but there is no reason to sappose that any religious idea was attached to it, as some have imagined, and much leas that it was Abaton. On the E. bank, a little to the S.E. of Phito, is a ruined fortress on the crest and slope of the rocks, with square and round towers ; and on the 8. side is a doorway having a round arch of brick between two roond towers, and leading into a court It ia probably of Christian time. Here, too, are the ruins of two large mosques: the southernmost one is built in great part of stones from some temple, many of them being covered with hieroglyphics; the superstructure is chiefly bricks baked and crude. On the hill above is a sanlon's tomb, from which there ia a fine view of Fhilra and Biggeh. FblliF, (ppcouhiog Lt trDm the SECTION X. IHE VALLEY OF THE HILE IN NXTBLA. FBOM THE FIBST TO THE SECOND CATARACT. AND TO ESABTOOM. PAGE KuBu : — General Observations . . • 529 BouTB 21. PhilsB (1st Cataract) to Wddy Halfah (2nd Ca- taract), and Semneh . 532 PAGE Route 22. Wddy Halfah (2nd Ca- taract) to Ebartoom, and thence to Sowd- kin on the Bed Sea 547 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. •. Character of the Country. — ^b. Ancient History and Geography,— c. Modem Inhabitants, a. Chabacteb of the Cottiitby. Were it not for the trouble of passing the Cataract, there could be no hesitation in advising every one who gets as far as Assoodn, to continue file voyage at any rate to Aboo Simbel, if not to Wddy Halfah. And, the Cataract notwithstanding, it is well worth the while of those who have the time to spare, to push on into Nubia. The scenery is far more beautiful than in Egypt, the climate if anything more perfect (except perhaps between Aboo Simbel and Wddy Halfah, where a strong cold north wind is often very disagreeable), and the giant statues of Aboo Simbel certainly rank next in antiquarian interest to the Pyramids and the ruins of Thebes, besides being In themselves something quite unique. On the other hand, it may be said liiBt of antiquities there is little worth seeing in Nubia by the ordinary iniTeller but Aboo Simbel, and there is a general absence of animal life which ;lHBie might find wearisome. The inhabitants are few, and, with the exception laferocodiles and an occasional duck, the sandbanks and borders of the river ■m untenanted, but some few birds are more likely to be met with in Nubia fhan in Egypt. Among them may be mentioned the beautiful yellow- IVMBted snnbird (JV. MetaUioa}, a species of bush-babbler (Crateropus Jgaeixi), and the ** bulbul " (Pycnonnotus Arsin&e). A white-winged wagtail CM. Vidua) is idmost confineid to the neighbourhood of the First Cataract, but utheie plentiful. The desert hare may occasionally be met with, and patience and the aauBtance of a native hunter may succeed in procuring the chance of a shot at a gazelle. (See also Section I., § 12.) All information with regard to the (^ntinxxfibUovi ol \Xv^ ^cs^^j^ ^^S^^stNs^ 630 ANCIENT HISTORY AND GEOGRAPHY. Seot. X. steamer or in a dahabeeyeh has been already given (Sect ViL, Pbelihinaby Infobmation). Should the traveller from any canse be unable to pass the First Cataract in the dahabeeyeh he has hired at Cairo, he will be able to procure another one at Mahattah (see p. 524). Information with regard to the continuance of the journey to Khartoom will be found at the begmning of- Hte. 22. It will take from a fortnight to three weeks to go from Phihe to W^y Halfah and back. h. Ancient Histoby and Geography. The countries bordering the Nile south of Egypt were known to the old Egyptians by the name of Koosh (Cush). The name Kejis is also foimd applied to that part nearest the Egyptian frontier. The Nubians which now inhabit it are still called the Kendos or Kensee tribe. The first Pharaoh of whom there is any record as haviag conquered the Kooshites, is Osirtasen III., of the Xllth Dynasty, who built a temple at Semneh above the Second Cataraot, and fixed the Egyptian frontier there. Thothmes I., of the XVIIIth Dynasty, has left a record of his triumphs over the Kooshites on a rock opposite Tombos. Thothmes IIL built temples at Amada, at Semneh, and at Soleb. Amunoph III. also built at Soleb, and at Grebel Barkal near Aboo Hamed. Hameses II. of the XlXth Dynasty added to this temple at Gebel Barkal, and besides the smaller rock-cut temples of Derr and Bayt el-Wellee, the grand monument at Aboo Simbel dates from his reign. At the epoch of the XXIIIrd Dynasty we find Egypt and Koosh have greatly changed places, Egypt, or at any rate the southern portion of it, having become a province of Ethiopia, a general name by which the coun- tries on the Nile south of Egypt became afterwards generally known. This change reached its height under the XXVth Dynasty, which was composed entirely of Ethiopian sovereigns, the last of them being Tirhakah. This Ethiopian domination over Egypt is satisfactorily proved by the his- torical stela discovered by M. Mariette at Napata or Gebel Barkal. The pyramids at Meroe may be probably referred to the Tirhakah period. In the time of Psammetichus, Elephantine was the border of Egypt. ' Under the Ptolemies the frontier was fixed at Hierasycaminon, about 80 miles S. of Syene, and the district was called Dodecach8enus.from that distance equalling 12 Egyp- tian schaenes. Many temples, Kalabsheh, Dakkeh, &c., belong to this period. Under the government of Petronius, the 2nd Boman prefect of Egypt, an expedition was undertaken against the Ethiopians in consequence of an attack made by them on the Roman garrison of Syene, the then frontier town. Petronius penetrated to and destroyed Napata, the capital of Candace, the queen of the Ethiopians. Napata, according to Pliny, was 870 Boman miles above the Cataracts, and is supposed to be M-Barkal of the present day, where pyramids and extensive ruins denote the former existence of an import- ant city. Gebel Barkal was called in hieroglyphics ^^ the Sacred Mountain." In Strabo's time, who visited Egypt during the government of ^lius GaUus, Petronius's successor, Syene was again the frontier, the Romans having, as he observes, " confined the province of Egypt within its former limits." Phil» then belonged " in common to the Egyptians and Ethiopians." This did not, however, prevent the Caesars from considering Lower Ethiopia as belonging to them, or from adding to the temples already erected there. Strabo says the Ethiopians above Syene consisted of the Troglodytie, Blemmyes, Nubae, and Megabari. The Megabari and Blemmyes inhabited the eastern desert, N. of Meroe to the frontiers of Egypt, and were under the dominion of the Ethiopians. The Icthyophagi lived on the e^ore of the Red Sea; the Troglodytas from Berenice southwards, between it and the Nile; and the NubsB, an African nation, were on the left bank, and independent ofBiluopia. gifpt. ' MODERN INHABITANTS. 531 From Procopius we leam that in the year a.d. 296, in the reign of Dio- •^X^tian, these Nubse, or NobatsB, as he calls them, were given the country ^^ve Syene on condition of their protecting Egypt against the incursions ^^ the Blemmyes. This state of things appears to have continued, for we ?nd at Ealab&uieh a Greek inscription, dating from the end of the 6th century, Jl^ which " Silco, king of the NubadsB and of all the Ethiopians," records his ^*iumph over the Blemmyes. Half a century afterwards the country was ^^nquered by the Arabs, by whose writers it has always been csdled Nciba. C, MODEBN INBABITA17TS. Modem Nubia may be divided into Lower Nubia, extending from the B'irst to the Second Cataract at Wddy Halfah, and Upper Nubia extending ttom. the Second Cataract to Ehartoom. Lower Nubia again is divided into three districts : Wddy Kenoos from the First Cataract to Sabooah, Wddy el- Arab from Sabooah to Derr, and Wddy Nooba from Derr to the Second Catar- act, and indeed beyond that to Dongola. These districts are so called from the tribes that inhabit them, and who each have a separate language, viz. the Kenoos, the Arabs, and the Nooba, They are, all however, known under the general name of Bardbra. The character of the country above PhilsB differs very much from Egypt, particularly &om that part below Esneh. The hiUs are mostly sandstone and granite, and, from their coming very near the river, frequently leave only a narrow strip of soil at the immediate bank, on which the people depend for the scanty supply of com or other produce grown in the country. It is not tiierefore surprising that the Nubians are poor ; though, from their limited ^wants and thrifty habits, they do no not suffer from the miseries of poverty. The palm-tree, which there produces dates of very superior quality, is to them a great resource, both in the plentiful supply it affords for their own use, and in the profitable exportation of its fruit to Egypt, where it is highly prized, especially that of the Ibr^emee kind, the frait of which is much larger and of better flavour than that of other palms, and the tree differs in tiie appearance of its leaves, which are of a finer and softer texture. The Sent, or Mimosa NUotica, also frimishes articles for export, of great importance to the Nubian, in its gum, pods for tanning, and charcoal ; and henneh, senna, baskets, mats, and a few other things produced or made in Nubia, return a good profit in sending them to Egypt. Nubia justly boasts of one blessing, which is that fleas and bugs will not live there. It is not, however, to he supposed that a boat hired at the Cataracts would necessarily be free from these plagues, or that they cannot be kept alive in a boat during the cold weather : but the fact is not the less certain that Nubia is free from them, and no boat, however dirty, or however careless its inmates, would retain them long during the summer weather. When the Nile is low, the land is irrigated by water-wheels, which are the pride of the Nubian peasant. Even the endless and melancholy creaking of these clmnsy machines is a delight to him, which no grease is permitted to diminish, aU that he can get being devoted to the shaggy hair of his untur- banned head. A certain portion of land is irrigated by each water-wheel, and the wealth of an individual is estimated by the number of these machines, as in other countries by farms or acres of land ; and, as is reasonable to suppose, in a hot climate like Nubia, they prefer the employment of oxen for the ardu- ous duty of raising water, to drawing it, like the Egyptian /elZd^, by the pole and bucket of the shadoof. The consequence of this is, that the tax on water- wheels falls very heavily on the Nubian, who also feels that on date-trees much more than the Egyptian peasant. The Nubians axe «JLl 'S^L^CkV^sassss&A.as^ (see farther, p. 32). 532 ROUTE 21. — PHIL^ TO WADY HALFAH. Beetle. BOUTE 21. THE FIRST CATARACT (PHIL^) TO THE SECOND CATARACT (WADY HALFAH)- Miles. Philffi to Dabod 10^ Gertassee .. 15 Tafah 7 Ealabsheh 6i Danddor 13 GerfHossayn 9 Dakkeh lOf Koortee Sj Maharraka 3f Sabodah 20 Korosko 12J Amada Ih Ben 4 Ibreem 13 AbooSimbel 34 WadyHalfah 40 210 (E.) About 8 miles above Philse, near the E. bank, is an eddy, called by the natives Shaym-t-el-Wah, " th.Q Eddy of the Wah," and believed by ihem to communicate underground with the Oasis of the Wah. (TT.) Dabdd, 10 J m., is supposed to be the Paremhole of Antoninus. The ruins there consist of a Temple^ founded apparently by Ashar-Amen, or Atar-Amen, a monarch of Ethiopia, who waa probably the immediate successor of Ergamen, the contem- porary of Ptolemy Philadelphus. Over the central pylon, in front of it, are the remains of a Greek inscrip- tion, bearing the name of Ptolemy Philometor with that of his queen Cleopatra. The temple was dedicated to Isis, who, as well as Osiris and her son Horus, were principally worshipped here; Amen being one of the chief eontemplar deities. Augustus and Ti- beiius added most of the BCiilptuies, but they were left unfinished, as was usuidly the case in the temples of Nubia. The main building commences with a portico or area, having four columns in front, connected by inter- columnar screens ; a central and two lateral chambers with a staircase lead- ing to the upper rooms ; to which succeed another central apartment im- mediately before the adytum, and two side-chambers. On one side of the portico a wing has been added at a later period. The three pylons before lie temple follow each other in suc- cession, but not at equal distances; and the whole is enclosed by a wall of circuit, of which the front pylon forms the entrance. The adytum is unsculptured, but two monoliths within it bear the name of Physcon and Cleopatra; and in the front chamber of the naos is that of the Ethiopian king " Ashar-(Atar)-AmeD, the ever-living," who in some of his nomens is called "the beloved of Isis." Among the few subiects sculptured in the portico are Tnoth and Hor-Hat engaged in pouring al- ternate emblems of life and purity over Tiberius ; alluding to the cere- mony of anointing him king. Some distance before the temple is a stone quay, which had a staircase leading from the river. Two days W. of Dabdd, and about the same distance from Assooan and from Kalabsheh, is a small uninhabited Oasis, called TTafelCoorJfcoo. It abounds in dates, and has some wells, but no ruins. /,. Between Dabdd and Gertissee the only remains are a wall projecting into the river, marking perhaps the site of Tzitzi — a single column; and- on the opposite bank, at GamiUey the ruined wall of a temple. On the island Morgdse are some crude-brick ruins. One of the most beautiful bits of river-scenery on the Nile begins about this point. A wide reach opens out for many miles, bordered on either side with a sloping bank of bright freen, whose uniformity is sometimes roken by masses of huge granite \\>o\i\.^et». 'Bftxei «nd there is a vil- \Bgypt. ROUTE 21. — GERtAssEE — KALABSHEH. 633 lage with its grove of palms: and %sleax against the sky stands out the small mined temple of Gertassee, per- Imps the most picturesque bit of ruin in Egypt, and certainly the only one, 'with the exception of Kom Ombo, i¥hich owes anything to its position. The temples are cdl too much on a dead level to add to the beauty of the landscape. (TT.) Gertligsee, 15 m. The Temple is a short distance N. of the village. Only a few columns are standing. What interest it has is derived from its picturesque position. A short distance S. of the temple is a sandstone quarry, in which are one enchorial, and up- wards of 50 Greek ex-votos. They are mostly of the time of Antoninus Pius, M. Aurelius, and Severus, in honour of Isis, to whom the neighbouring temple was probably dedicated. Some refer to the works in the quarry, and one of them mentions the number of stones cut by the writer for the great temple of the same goddess at Philse. In tne centre is a square niche, which may once have contained a statue of the goddess; and on either side are busts in high relief, placed within re- cesses, and evidently, from their style, of Eoman workmanship. The road by which the stones were taken from the quarry is still discernible. At the village are the remains of a large enclosure of stone, on whose N. side is a pylon, having a few hiero- glyphics, and the figure of a goddess, probably Isis, with a head-dress sur- mounted by the horns and globe. (W.) K&h, or Widy Tfi&h, 7 m., a prettily situated village among groves of palms. Here are some more stone enclosures, but on a smaller scale than that of Gertassee, being about 22 paces by 18. The position of the stones is singular, each row pre- senting a crescent or concave surface to the one above it, the stones at the centre being lower than at the angles. In a length of 50 ft. the depression below the horizontal line is 1 ft. 3 in. In one are several rooms communicat- ing with each other by doorways ; but the enclosures themselves are quite vncoDDeoted, and some at a consider- able distance from the rest. They are of Boman date, as the mouldings of the doorway show : but it is difficult to ascertain the use for which they were intended. The stones are rusti- cated (or rough) in the centre, and smooth at the edges, as in many Boman buildings. There are the remains of two temples at Tdfah. One, quite ruined, is close to the river, with a flight of steps lead- ing down between two walls to a quay. The other Temple is inside the village, and is in fact used by the natives as a dwelling-house. It was converted into a church by the early Christians. On one of the walls is an almanack, supposed to be of the 4th or 5th cen- tury. Christianity, introduced in the age of Justinian, was the religion of Ethiopia till a late period (though Edreesee considered it extinct in 1154 except in the desert), since in Wans- leb's time, 1673, the churches were still entire, and only closed for want of pastors. Two of the columns of the portico are still standing, and on the adjoining wall are some Greek inscrip- tions and the figures of saints. Be- hind the portico is a chamber, which may have been the adytum. The inhabitants of Tafah and the neighbourhood have the character of being independent and quarrelsome. Some of the w^ies which here come down from the desert to the river are said to be frequented occasionally by gazelle. Soon after passing Tdfah the gra- nite begins to reappear, and the sce- nery reminds us of PhilaB and the Cataracts. Boulders of basalt appear here and there in the stream, wnich flows with great rapidity, and is di- vided into several channels by islands, not utterly barren, however, but covered in many places with signs of cultiva- tion. Tlus part of the river extends for two or uiree miles, and is called m-Bdh, " the Gate," it being in fact a series of rapids on a small scale. (TT.) Kal&bsheh, 6i miles, a village lying just above the rapids. It is thj& ruina oi \iio \w^e«.^\jfcm^ViV»^^^^^»^ 534 ROUTE 21 — PHILE TO WADY HALFAH. SeciX- TempU of Kaldbsheh. — ^It appears to have Deen built in the reign of Augustus ; and though other CsBsars, particularly Caligula, Trajan, and Severus, made considerable addi- tions to the sculptures, it was left un- finished. The stones employed in its construction had belonged to an older edifice, to which it succeeded ; and it is highly probable that the original temple was of the early epoch of Thothmes m., whose name is still traced on a granite statue lying near the quay before the entrance. This extensive building consists of a naos, portico, and area. The naos is divided into three successive cham- bers, — the adytum, a hall supported by two colunms, and a third room opening on the portico, which has twelve columns, three in depth and four in breadth, the front row united by screens on either side of the en- trance. The area is terminated by the pyramidal towers of the propylon, beyond which is a pavement, and a staircase leading to the platform of the quay that sustains the bank of the river. The temple is surrounded by two walls of circuit, both of which are joined t^ the propylon. The space between them is occupied by several chambers, and at the upper extremity is a small building with columns, forming the area to a chapel hewn in the rock. At the N.E. comer is also a small chapel, which belonged to the original temple, and is anterior to the buildings about it ; and to the N. is another enclosure of consider- able extent, connected with the outer wall, and two detached doorways. In some parts of the temple the colours are still exceedingly bright, which is probably due to the Christians, who, by covering over the sculptures, paint- ings, and hieroglyphics with plaster, were the unintentional means of pre- serving much that is interesting. But the sculptures throughout the temple are of very inferior style; nor could the richness of gilding that once co- vered those at the entrances of the JSrst chambers of the naos have com- pensated for the deficiency of the\i execution. Ita extent, however, cla\ma\ aieiBk, ovx\j»Aft VJcka >waa^ «» wso^tored for it a conspicuous place anumg the largest monuments dedicated to the deities of Egypt. Mandouli, or, acooid* ing to the ancient Egyptians, Maloolif or Merouli, was the deity of Talmifl,an(i it is in his honour that the greater part of the numerous ex-votos in the area are inscribed by their pious writers. The most interesting of these in- scriptions is that of " Silco, king of the Nubadsd and of all the Ethiopians," which records his several defeats of the Blemmyes ; and, to judge from bis own account, he neither spared the vanquished, nor was scrupulous in celebrating his exploits. Perhaps the most remarkable thing about the temple of Kalabsheh is the extraordinary mass of ruins it pre- sents. It appears to have been thrown down almost before it was completed, and by what agency it is impossible to conjecture. A short distance &om the temple, towards the N.W., are the sandstone Quarries, from which the stone uaed in building its walls was taken ; and on the hill behind it are found the scattered bones of mummies. In the village are the remains of walls. The ancient town stood on the N. and S. of the temple, and extended along the hill towards the Bayt el- Wellee, which is strewed with bricks and broken pottery. ( F.) Bayt el-Wellee.—It is not with- out considerable satisfaction that the Egyptian antiquary turns from the coarse sculptures of the Boman era to the chaste and elegant designs of a Pharaonic age which are met with in the sculptures of Bameses II. at the Bayt el'WeUe€,.''ihe House of the Saint," a small but interesting temple excavated in the rock, and dedicated to Amen-ra, with Kneph, and An- ouke. It consists of a small inner chamber or adytum; a hall snp- ported by two polygonal columns of very ancient style, which call to mind the simplicity of the Greek Doric ; and an area in front. At the upper end of the hall are two niches each containing three sitting figores in. "V\\^\i x^\\at\ wid on the walls of the Egypt ROUTE 21. — ^BAYT EL-Wl^LLEE — ^DEN1X)6e. 535 of the victories of Barneses; casts which are in the British Museum. The sculptures relate to the wars of this Pharaoh against the Gush or Ethiopians, and the Shori, who, haying been previously reduced by the Egyptian monarcbs, and made tributary to them, rebelled about this period, and were reconquered by Sethi I. and Hameses U. On the rt.- hand wall the monarch, seated on a throne under a canopy or shrine, receives the offerings brought by the conquered Ethiopians, preceded by the Prince of Gush, Amenmatape, and introduced by the eldest son of the conqueror, Amenhiumami. Biags and bags of gold, leopard-skins, rich thrones* flabella, elephants' teeth, ostrich-eggs, and other objects, are among the presents placed before him; and a deputation of Ethiopians ad- vances, bringiug a lion, oryx, oxen, and gazelles. The lower Une com- mences with some Egyptian chiefs, who are followed by the prince of Kush and other Ethiopians, bringing plants of their country, skins, apes, a camelopard, and other animals. Be- yond this is represented the battle €tnd defeat of tlie enemy. Bameses, mounted in his car, is attended by his charioteer, who urges the horses to their full speed, 'i'he king discharges liis arrows on the disorderly troops of the enemy, who betake themselves to the woods. At the upper end of the picture a wounded chief is taken home by his companions. One of his children throws dust on its head in token of sorrow, and another runs to announce the sad news to its mother, who is employed in cooking at a fire lighted on the ground. On the opposite wall is the war against the 8hori. At the upper end, which is in reality the termination of the picture, Bameses is seated on a throne, at whose base is crouched a lion, SmamkJieftufy "the tearer to pieces of his enemies," his companion in battle. His eldest son brings into his presence a group of prisoners of that nation; and in the lower compartment ia a deputation Egyptian chiefs. Beyond this, the conqueror engages in single combat with one of the enemjjr's generals, and slays him with his sword, in the presence of his son and other Egyptian officers ; and the next com- partment represents him iu his car,- in the heat of the action, overtaking the leader of the hostile army, whom he also despatches with his sword. The enemy then fly in all directions to their fortified town, which the king advances to besiege. Some sue for peace; while his son, forcing the gates, strikes terror into the few who resist. Then trampling on the pros- trate foe, Bameses seizes and slays their chiefs; and several others are brought in fetters before him by his son. Such are the principal subjects in the area of this temple, which, next to Aboo Simbel, is the most interesting monument in Nubia. Much henneh is grown here. The pounded leaves are exported to Egypt, and are used for dyeing the nails and fingers of women red. It is the Kwpos of the Greeks; and the "cluster of camphire" (kuphr) in Solomon's Song, i. 13, is translated in the LXX. " fioTpvs Kvwpov" It is, perhaps, al- luded to in Deut. xxi. 12, though our translation has ^*pare her nails." It is the Lawsonia spinosa et inermis of LinnsBus. The people of Kalabsheh are a noisy, troublesome lot, very eager to dispose of the usual Nubian curi- osities. After passing Ealabsheh, the hills shut the river closely in on both sides, and hardly a strip of cultivation re- lieves the bare and arid monotony of the scene. Here and there are to be seen jetties of loose stones, intended to turn the force of the current, and prevent it washing away what little soil there is. At Ahoo Hor is a sort of rapid, and at low water there is only a narrow passage left between the breakers and ^e E. bank. A short distance further on the hills recede, w. , and t\ie acensrj \&\<^^ ^^»x.« of \ QW.^ IkraiaLO^T, \^ m.-^V'^^ 't«w.^ he \ oj DefidooT e^XasAa ^xsaJt ^^SSeso. Niws. 536 ROUTE 21. — PHIL^ TO WADY HALFAH. SectX. tropic. It consists of a portico with two columns in front, two inner chambers, and the adytum : at the end of which is a tablet, with the figure of a goddess, apparently Isis. In front of the por- tico is a pylon, opening on an area enclosed by a low wall, and facing to- wards the river ; and behind the temple is a small grotto excavated in the sandstone rock. It has the Egyptian cornice over the door, and before it is an entrance-passage built of stone. The sculptures are of the time of Augustus, in whose reign it appears to have been founded. The chief deities were Osiris, Isis, and Horus. {E.) The ruined town of Sdbagdora, nearly opposite Gerf Hossayn, occu- pies the summit and slope of a hill, near the river, and is famous for the resistance made there by a desperate Nubian chief against the troops of Ibrahim Pasha. Near it is the vil- lage of Kirsheh. (W.) Gerf Hoss&yn, 9 m., the an- cient TutziSj in Coptic, Thosh, but from being imder the special protection of Ptah, the deity of the place, it was called by the Egyptians Ptdh-ei, or *'the Abode of Ptah." The resem- blance of the Coptic name Thosh with Ethaush, signifying, in the same dia- lect, Ethiopia, is rendered peculiarly striking, from the word Cush, in the old Egyptian language ** Ethiopia," being retained in the modem name of this place, which in Nubian is called Kish. The Temple is of the time of Ra- meses II., entirely excavated in the rock, except the portico or area in front. At the upper end of the adytum are 4 sitting figures in high relief. Three similar statues occur in each of the eight niches of the great hall, and in the two others within the area. This area had a row of four Osiride figures on either side, and four columns in front, but little now remains of the wall that enclosed it ; and the total depth of tlie excavated part does not exceed 130 ft. The Osiride figures in the hall are very badlj executed, ill according with the sculpture of the second Rameses; iiot\\ivaiaiTQa%«a^e from the gods or(derin^ are the statuea of the sanctuary o£ a \Yi\m \o ^fe, V^ ^Q^. os^ ^iac^siod iC^ style worthy of that era. The deity of the town was Ptah, to whom tiie dedications of the temple were in- scribed; and Athor, Pa^t (the com- panion and "beloved of Ptah"), and Anouke, each held a conspicuous place among tiie contemplar deities. (W.) At Koatamneh is a doorway, with the agathodasmon over it; and the remains of masonry near the fauik. Here the Nile is said to be fordabie in May. Here are some more of the large stone piers before referred to, evident- ly built with far more care than any works of the modern inhabitants. (TF.) Dakkeh, 10 J m., is the Psekif of the Itinerary of Pliny and of Pto- lemy. Strabo, who calls it P«efcft«, says it was an Ethiopian city in his time; the Romans having given up all the places south of Philse and the Cataracts, the natural frontier of Egypt. It was here that PetroniiM defeated the generals of Candace, and then, having taken the city, advanced to Primis (Pr^mnis) and to Napata, the capital of the Ethiopian queen. Strabo mentions an island at this spot, in which many of the routed enemy> swimming across the river, took refuge, until they were made prisoners by the Romans, who crossed over in boats ano- rafts. The Temple was founded by Erg^ men, an Ethiopian king, and was added to and deco- rated by the Ptolemies and Csasars. The oldest part is the central chsimber (with the doorway in front of it), which bears the name of the Ethiopian monarch, and was the original adytum. This Ergamen or Erga- menes, according to Diodo- rus, was instructed in the sciences and philosophy of the Greek^ and a contemporary of Ptolemy Phil^^ delphus. The historian says thath^ was the first to put an end to th^ power of the priests in Ethiopia, an^ that when, in accordance with th^ prerogative they claimed, t^ey sen' ^w^t. ROUTE 21. — TEMPLE OF DAKKEH — KUBbIn. 637 obey, but ordered the priests them- KlTes to be slaughtered. That he £uled not, however, to do honour to the gods is shown by the representa- tions of him here presenting offerings to the different deities of the temple. Over one of the side doors he is styled "son of Neph, bom of Isis, nursed by Anonk^;" and on the other side, "son of Osiris, bom of Sate, nursed by Nephthys." His royal title and ovals read "Mng of men [(1) the hand of Amen, the living, chosen of Ra], son of the sun [(2) Ergamen, overliving, the beloved of Isis].** Ptolemy Philopator added to the sonlptures at Dakkeh ; and his oval occurs with that of his wife and sister Arsinoc — his father, Ptolemy Euer- gotes — and his mother, Berenice Snergetes ; and on the corresponding side are those of Ptolemy Philadelphus and Arsinoe Philadelphe. Physcon or Euergetes II. afterwards built the portico, as we learn from a mutilated Oreek inscription on the architrave, accompanied by the hieroglyphic name of that monarch; and by him the jgjesent adytum was probably added. ?^e oval of Augustus likewise occurs ^ the portico, but a great part of this ^Uilding was left unfinished, as is ^^nerally found to be the case with rh.e Roman and Ptolemaic monuments -•^ Nubia. In the temple of Deikkeh is one of *^e many instances of an Egyptian ■^^rtico, in antist which was a mode of ^\dlding frequently used in Egypt as ^V-ell as in Greece. On the roof are ^giany paintings of Christian saints. ,2^ithin the sanctuary lies a large ■broken block of red granite, polished, "^hich may have been a part of the 'Original shrine. And in one of the ^ide chambers are some curious sculp- 'tiures, in which figure a monkey and t%moTi^^\^^ corridors : and the interior chaml)ei8> which are generally closed by the drifted sand. On one of the walls is what purports to be a list of the childxen of Rameses II., each with his name and title. According to this wonderfol catalogue he had more than 160. These chambers afford some corioos evidence of having been used as a Christian church. Over the god whose image was carved in the adytnin has been plastered a picture of Si Peter: the other paintings, however, have not been altered, and the result is that Rameses 11. is now seen making offerings to a Christian saini All these rock-hewn chambers have been thickly plastered, in order to fill up the many holes and cracks that occurred owing to the coarseness of the grain of the stone, and the hiero- glyphics have been impressed in this plaster when wet. At Sabooah begins the district in which Arabic is spoken. In respect of climate, the neighboll^ hood of Sabooah is perhaps the plea- santest in Nubia. The air is deli- ciously soft and pure. Soon after passing Sabo<5ah, the hills close in on the E. bank, and at MaUk^ the river begins to take a considerable bend. In the northern angle of this bend, where the eastern hills again fall back considerably, lies (E.) Korosko, 12^ m. From this point the direct road lies across the desert to Aboo Hamed and the U^)®' Nile, Shendy, Sennaar, Khartoom, ^ The village itself, a small one, lies back on the edge of the desert ; but the bank is generally lined with the tents and merchandise of traders waiting^ camels to Aboo Hamed or boats to the 1st Cataract. Any traveller who wishes to push on by the shortest way to the Upper Nile, should qui* his boat here, and join some caravan* It takes from six to nine days to leeuch Aboo Hamed, a drear, wean- some journey across an uninteresting desert. It is worth while to walk a little way inland, smd cUmb one of the hi^est obtained will give <^ ROUTE 21. — KOROSKO — ^AMADA — DERR. of this desert : barren hills rising one behind the other as far as the eye can reach, only separated by as barren val- leys. The rock is sandstone, thickly ooyered here and there with volcanic remains. Numerous rocky shoals obstruct the E. bank of the river after leaving Korosko; and there are large sand- banks in the centre, on which croco- diles may often be seen. The desert bare may sometimes be found during a stroll into the eastern desert ; and a sharp eye will often detect a chame- leon on the branch of a tree. Some of these curious auimalH are sure to be offered for sale: they occasionally thrive well in confinement. The bend of the river still continues, and to such an extent that its course between Korosko and Derr is S.S.E. This often detains boats for a consider- able time on the way up, as it is im- possible to get on if a N. wind is blowing. (TF.) Amada, 7^ m. Here, high up on the sandy bank, is a small but ▼ery elegant Temple of considerable antiquity. The names found on it are those of Osirtasen III., probably the founder, Thothmes III., Amunoph II., and Thothmes IV. It consists of a portico, a transverse corridor, and three inner chambers, the central one of which is the adytum. The sculp- tures on the walls are as remarkable for the beauty of their style, as for l^e wonderful way in which, in many places, the colouring has been pre- served. This is no doubt owing to the unintentional aid of the early Christians, who here, as in many other places, covered the sculptures with mud and mortar to conceal them from sight, and thus protected them from the ravages of time. Unfor- tonately the temple is so blocked up with sand, that it is sometimes diffi- cult to get in, and candles are required in order to see the sculptures. The View from the roof of the temple down the reach of the river towards Korosko is very beautiful : the belt of palms on the right bank, hacked bjr a pictureeque ridge of black JiiJlB, with me blue river separating! 539 them from the golden sands of the left bank, form one of the prettiest bits of landscape on the Nile. It is a spot firom which to see to perfection one of the splendid sunsets that in this •part of Nubia excel in softness of tone and gorgeousness of colouring even those of Egypt, beautiful as they nearly always are. (E.) Derr or Dayr, 4 m. A large town, the capital of Nubia, but less neat and prepossessing-looking than many small villages. Its population, too, excel in the art of pestering the traveller for backsheesh. At the back of the town, on the edge of the desert, is a rock-cut Temple of no great size, the total depth being only 110 ft. It is of the time of Bameses II., but the sculptures are not worthy of that epoch. They are now, too, very much mutilated. In the area was a battle^scene ; but little now remains, except the imperfect traces of chariots and horses, and some confused figures. On the wall of the temple the king is represented, in the presence of Amen-ra, slaying the pri- soners he has taken, and accompanied by a lion; and on the opposite side the lion seizes one of the falling cap- tives as he is held by the victorious monarch. At the upper end of the sanctuary is a niche wnich contained four sitting figures. Ba was the chief deity of the sanc- tuary, from whom the ancient town received the name of Ei-Ba, "tho Abode of the Sun ; " and we find that this "temple of Bameses" was also considered under the special protection of Amen-ra and of Thoth. Ptah like- wise held a distinguished place among the contemplar gods. It is worthy of remark that all the temples between the two cataracts, except Derr, Ibreem, and Ferdyg, aro situated on the W. side of the Nile ; and, instead of lying on the arable land, are all built on the sandy plain, or hewn in the rock. This was, doubt- less, owing to their keeping the small portion of land they possessed for cul- tivation, 'v^Ta.VVb \3afe Vsttq^ ^jAHkos^^^ occupied NiYi'aX. coxM. \i^ qI "m^ -ss^s^ii^?^ to the iDLiaa\>\\a.TA», 640 ROUTE 21. — PHILiK TO WADY HALFAH. Sect A. The name of Derr is derived from the "convent" of the old Christian inhabitants. It afterwards belonged to the Kashefs of Sultan Selim, whose descendants ruled the country till its reduction by Mohammed Ali, and whose family still remains there ; and the chief people of Derr pride them- selves on their Turkish origin, and the fair complexion which distinguishes them from the other Nubians. The sandbanks in front of Derr are much frequented by crocodiles. After leaving Derr, the aspect of the river-banks is much less bare. The strip of soil is broader here than any- where in Nubia, and nowhere is it cultivated with more care. The sahee- yehs are innumerable. There is one at nearly every 100 yards, and where the banks are high, there are often two or three one above the other. The noise made by these machines, which go night and day, is something astoimding. They are never greased, and turn round with one constant shrill shriek or dull groan, according as the wood is new or old. (E.) On the road from Derr to Ibreem, inland, is a grotto out in the rock, called El-Dooknesra, opposite Gattey, with sculptures of old time ; and on the W. bank, above Gezeeret Gattey, is a small tomb, inland in the desert, cut in a rock of pyramidal form, which bears the name of Ba- rneses V. and his queen Nofre-t-aret. The person of the tomb was one " Poeri, a royal son of Cush," who is represented doing homage to tiie Egyp- tian Pharaoh. Before reaching Ibreem the river becomes very broad, and enormous sandbanks stretch over a large ex- panse, dividing the river into many narrow channels. {E.) Ibreem, 13 m., is situated on a lofty cliff, commanding the river, as well as the road by land, and is the supposed site of Frimis Parva. It contains no remains of antiquity, ex- cept part of the ancient wall on the S. side, and a building, apparently also of ^man date, in the interior, towards the N, fiide. The latter is built of stone, the lower part of large, the upper of small, blocks. Over the door is the Egvptian cornice, and a pro- jecting slab intended for the globe and asps ; and in the face of the front wall is a perpendicular recess, similar to those in Egyptian temples for fixing the flag-staffs on festivals. In fron- of this is a square pit, and at ii^ mouth lies the capital of a Corinthia-^ column of Boman time. The blooJ^ used in building the outer wall we^ taken irom more ancient monument Some of them bear the name of T^ hakah, the Ethiopian king, who mL^ Egypt as well as his own country, ^£ B.C., and whose Ethiopian capital wc Napata, now El-Barkal. It is probable that the Bomazu; finding the position of Ibreem so well adapted for the defence of their terri- tories, stationed a garrison there as an advanced post, and that the wall is a part of their fortified works. It wai in later times fixed upon by Sultaa Selim as one of the places peculiarly adapted for a permanent station of the troops leffc by him to keep the Nubians in check; and the descendants of Sultan Selim's Turks remained there till expelled from it by the Memlooki (or Ghooz), on their way to Shendy in 1811. It is well worth climbing i the top of the hill fgr the sake of tb View. In the rock beneath Ibreem a some small painted grottoes, beazi' the names of Thothmes I. and IIL, Amunoph U. and of Barneses IT., w statues in high relief at their uf end. About half-way from IbreeiD Bostdn are a mound and a stela, a 6 ft. high, with hieroglyphics. B» is the Turkish name for ^' gar and was probably given it b; soldiers of Sultan Selim. A short way beyond it at Tushka or Tosiko (the Nubian signifying ** three"), are two i rocks, stretching across the N nearly closing the passage month of May, when the river They form a complete weir, ar be verv dangerous to a boat down the stream without a pi After passing Tosko the Rfyjpt ROUTE 21. — ABOO SIMBEL : THE GREAT TEMPLE. many places flows literally through the desert. There is no cultivation on 541 either bank. But the aspect of the XL bank is quite different from that of the W. : bleak, black, and weird-look- im$r, the former lacks the golden sands irhich brighten up the Libyan desert, and clothe its valleys and hill-sides. (TF.) Aboo Simbel, 34 m., or, as it is sometimes, and more correctly, palled, Ipsambool. Here are the most Interesting remains met with in Nubia, Bnd, excepting Thebes and the Pyra- mids, throughout the whole valley of the Nile. It has two temples hewn in the gritstone rock, both of the time of Bameses 11.; which, besides their grandeur, contain highly-finished Bculptures, and throw great light on the history of that conqueror. Gandles will be necessary for seeing the sculptures in these temples : but travellers should on no account allow torches to be used ; not only do they blacken the sculptures, but they render the atmosphere inside the temples so stifling and offensive, that if three or four parties follow one another it be- oemes barely possible to breathe. Mag- nesium wire is the best thing to use in all cases where a strong light is re- quired for seeing the general effect. The small Temple of Athor is exca- vated in tbe perpendicular side of the rock, and is the first arrived at from the N. The. fa9ade is adorned with several statues in prominent relief of the king and the deities. ' The in- terior is divided into a hall of six square pillars bearing the head of Athor, a transverse corridor, with a small chamber at each extremity, and an adytum, in which the goddess Athor is represented under the form of tfaie sacrea cow, her emblem, which also occurs in the pictures on the wall. Her title here is " Lady of Abo- flhek " ( Aboccis), the ancient name of Aboo Simbel which, being in the country of the Ethiopians, is followed in the hieroglyphics by the sign sig- nifying *• foreign land.*' Among the oontemplar deities are Ba, Amen-ra, Isis, and Ptah ; and Kneph, S^te, and Anouk^ the triad of the Cataracts. The monarch is frequently accom- panied by his queen Nofre-ari. The total depth of this excavation is about 90 ft. from the door. The Great Temple is a little to the S. Exterior. — ^It also is excavated in the rock, the surface of which has been cut away so as to form a gigantic fa9ade, more than 100 feet high, and nearly 100 wide. It docs not directly face the river, but looks across it in an oblique direction northwards. The cornice formed by 22 seated cynocepheli is sur- mounted by a frieze, on which is the dedicatory inscription, and in a niche over the entrance is a large statue of the sun-god Ba, the divinity of the temple and the protector of the place, to whom Bameses II., the founder of the temple, is offering a figure of Truth. But the wonder and marvel of this stupendous facade are the four gigantic statues wnich adorn it, the most beautiful of all Egyptian colossi. They represent Bameses II. They are seated on thrones attached to the rock, and the faces of some of them, which are fortunately well preserved, evince a beauty of expression, the more striking as it is unlooked for in statues of such dimensions. Their total height is about 66 ft. without the pedestal, the proportion being low, or only six heads. The ear measures 3 ft. 5 in. : forefinger (i.e. to the fork of middle finger), 3 ft.; from inner side of elbow-joint to end of middle finger, 15 ft., &c. The head of one of the statues is completely broken off, but the others are tolerably intact. On the leg of the first, to the left as you approach the door of the tem- ple, is the curious Greek inscription of the Ionian and Carian soldiers of Psammetichus, first discovered by Mr. Bankes and Mr. Salt, as well as some interesting hieroglyphic tablets. The Greek inscription is of very great interest upon several accounts. It appears to have been written by the troops sent by the Egyptian Idng after the deserters, who, to the number of 240,000, are said by Herodotus to have left the service of Psammetichus be- cause they had been stationed in gar- £42 ROnXK 21. — PHI riBoa at Syene for three yean withont being nlieved, and to hare settled in Ethiopia. It iB in a curious style of Greek, with a rude indication of the lone vovels, the more remarkable as it datea more than 100 yeara beftiro BimomdeB. The i) is Q, and the <• i«G- Beaidea this inscription are others, written bj Greeks who probably visited the plaoe at a later time ; as " Theopompus, the son of Plato : " '■ Ptolemy, the son of Timoatratns ; " rO WADY HALF AH. Band qoiokly closed in. labours enabled others t without much diffionlty. fa^de and the interior plctoly cleared of sand. We pass through the < into a large Malt (b) sup] Osiride columns. Each o1 attached to these column! the cap and pedestal, ni high ; their other dimensii the sbonlder to tho elbon bom tlie elbow to the w Plan and SkUdo oI (be ' KteaibinB,Teleplm8, and others. There are sjao some Phcenician mscnpttODB on the same colossus Infmor.— The interior was formerly quite closed by the sand that m the hills above Butokhardt e first U. etheei this wonderfiil temph . afterwards in 1817 visited by Belzoni, Captains Irby and Mangles, and Mr. Seediey, who resolved to dear the entrance, and succeeding in dtmig act . after a bald fortnight's work. Tte in &om the nose to the the ear 13; in the not m the face nearly 2 ft a height, tnthont the cap a 17 ft 8 m The scnlptnree on thi chiefly historical aubjects the conquests of Barneses tablet, containing the dat< S«r, extends over great . wall : and another, beti last oillars on the opp« ^ded long after the temple was com- pleted. The battle-scenes are very nterestmg. Among the various sub- ects are the arks of the Egyptians, ?hich they carried with them in their breign expeditions. The subjects on lie S. wall are particularly spirited. k charioteer, jusit bending his bow, ^th the reins tied round his waist, s fall of life. IVom this hall we pass into another [o) supported by 4 square columns, on which and on the walls are depicted religious subjects, among them the procession of the sacred bark. Three doors lead &om this hall iato a third [d) covered with similar scenes, out of which open three rooms. The centre is the sanctuary (e), with an altar in the middle, and at the end four seated figures, the first of which to the right is Horus, and then come Bameses himself^ Amen, and last Ptah. Eight ither rooms open out of the large BaU, but they are very irregularly dxcavated ; some of them have lofty tenches projecting £rom the walls. The total depth of this excavation, Tom the door, is about 200 ft., with- )ut the colossi and slope of the facade. A short distance to the S. of the arge temple are some hieroglyphic ablets on the rock, bearing the date )f the 38th year of the same Bameses. In 1874, a party, which included Ifiss A. B. Edwards the authoress and Ifr. A. Macallum the artist, discovered bo the S. of the Great Temple a rock- 3ut chamber, 21 ft. by 14 ft. in width, elaborately sculptured and painted, inth inscriptions by Bameses II. 'This chamber is preceded by the ruins of a vaulted atrium, in sun- Iried brickwork, and adjoins the re- nainsof what would appear to be a mas- dve wall or pylon, which contains a itaircase terminating in an arched door- way leading to thevaulted atrium before nentioned.*' The bones of a woman md child, evidently a Nubian inter- nent, were found in it. The sculptures md inscriptions relate chiefly to the worship of Amen-ra by Bameses II., Old are in excellent preservation, with nnch ci the colour qmte fresh. Some )f the inscriptions are devoted to ROUTE 21. — ^THE GREAT TEMPLE — ^FERAYG FARAS. 643 Thoth, the god of letters, and it has been conjectured that the grotto was the library of the adjoining temple. The greater part is already covered up with sand It is a toilsome climb through the sand to the top of the cliff above the statues,^ but the View is a very fine one. (E,) Nearly opposite Aboo Simbel is Ferdyg, a small excavated temple, consisting of a hall, supported by four columns, two side chambers or wings, and an adytum. It has the name and sculptures of the successor of Amunoph m., and was dedicated to Amen-ra and Kneph. At a later time it became a Christian church, for which its cruci- form plan was probably thought par- ticularly appropriate. On the ceiling are paintings of Our Saviour with a glory, and raised hand in act of bless- ing St George, who is spearing the dragon. In the sanctuary are two sediiia. (jE?.) Close to the S. of GeM Addeh, on a conical hill called GebeH esh- Shems (" HiU of the Sun"), and a little way above Ferayg, are some tablets, and a very old tomb in the rock. In a niche is the name of a king, pro- bably one of the Xlllth Dynasty, who is seated with Anubis, Savak, and Anoukd, receiving the adoration of a " royal sou of Cush." The king's pre- nomen reads Merkara. There is also a grotto with an illegible name of a king, and another prince of Cush, or Ethiopia; with other hieroglyphics on the rock, having the name of an indi- vidual called Thothmes. (W.) Faros, or Farras, on the W. bank, is supposed to be the Phthuria of Pliny; and, from the many sculp- tured blocks and columns there, it is evident that some ancient town existed on that spot ; though, judging from the style, they appear to belong to a Boman rather than an Egyptian epoch. A little to the S. is a small grotto with hieroglyphics of the time of Bameses II. ; and in the hills to the westward are some tombs hewn in the rock with several Coptic inacrip- 544 ROUTE 21. — PHIL^ TO wAdY HALFAH. Sect. X. turns, from one of which, bearing the name of Diocletian, it seems that they served as places of refuge during some of the early persecutions of the Chris- tians. They swarm with bats. To the S.W. are ruins of baked brick, with stone columns, of the low ages. At Serra are the remains of what was once perhaps a quay; but there are no ruins of any ancient town in the vicinity, though it also lays claim to the site of Phthuris. There are some fine reaches in the river between Aboo Simbel and Wady Halfah, but the banks are tame and uninterest- ing. (JE?.) Widy Halfah, 40 m. A large village, lying scattered among a thick belt of palms. Numerous sandbanks intervene between it and the deep river-channel, so that dahabeeyehs have to moor some way from the bank. In the plain behind the village are some curious wells with sdkeeyehs. On the W. bank opposite W^dy Hal- fah are the vestiges of three buildings. One is a simple square of stone, with- out sculpture; another has several stone pillars, the walls being of brick ; but the third has been ornamented with a number of columns, parts of which still remain. Sufficient, how- ever, still exists to tell us that it was an ancient Egyptian building ; and that it was, at least originally, com- menced by the 3rd and 4th Thothmes, and apparently dedicated to Kneph. The whole scene at Wady Halfah is very drear and desolate, unless en- livened, as it sometimes is, by an encampment of traders on their way to, or returning from, the Soodan. Their merchandise is transferred here from camels to boats, or vice versa. The goods that are waiting for camels to take them into the interior are un- interesting enough, consisting almost entirely of cotton stuffs, and other Eu- ropean manufactured articles; those that have just left the camels' backs are more novel and varied, and make with their escort a picturesque group on the shore. The Second Cataract. — The only thing that makes it worth while to come the additional 40 miles from f Aboo Simbel to Wddy Halfah, is the view of the Second Cataract to be obtained from the rook of Abooseer, It is situate on the W. bank, about 5 or 6 miles above Wddy Halfah. It is rather a fatiguing walk owing to the loose sand, but donkeys can b^ procured from the village. The Seconi^ Cataract is perhaps less interesting^ than the First, but more extensiv^^ being a succession of rapids, whic^ij occupy a space of several miles, call^^^ Batn eUHdaar, " the Belly of Ston^^»» On the W. bank, just below this ro&l^ bed, is the high cliff of Abooseer, froiQ which there is a fine and commaxid- ing view of the falls ; and this is the usual idtima Thtde of Egyptian tra- vellers, The 2nd Cataract is im- passable for boats, except at one sea- son of the year, during the high Nile ; and the same impediments occur at the vsuious rapids above it. From this cliff is a grand bird's-eye view of the cataract, with its numerous black shining rocks dividing the river into endless channels, and the Nile spreading out to a considerable breadth. Southwards the view extends for a long distance, amongst the plains of sand and the ranges of hills which stretch away into the horizon, while here and there the Nile may be seen, like a silver thread, running through the dreary waste. Two mountains on the horizon mark the position of Dongola. The Rock of Abooseer is a veritable Livre des Voyageurs, and custom sanc- tions here, as innocent and not with- * out a certain interest of its own, a practice which good taste and oomnum sense alike condemn most strongly* when indulged in to the injury of priceless monuments of antiquity and works of art. While the traveller is absent at Abooseer, the dahabeeyeh is prepand for its downward journey. The big yard and sail (^n'nA^ef) are taken down and fastened above the deck, and the small yard and sail (halaJcdon) hoisted on the mainmast, the oars are all oat and tied to the tholes, and many of the deck planks taken up to make room for the rowers' legs. The reautt I Bgifpt. IB that the graceM dahabeeyeh is tamed into a junk-like barge. Going down the river, the sailors tow, if it is cahn ; if the wind is con- trary, the boat is turned broadside to the stream, and floats at about the late of a mile or two an hour, ac- cording to the respectively opposing strengths of wind and water. Some- times, of course, the wind is so violent that no progress can be made, and there is nothing for it but to go into the bank and stop. With a favouring 8. wind the small sail is made use of. Semneh. — About 35 m. beyond Wddy Halfah are the village and cataract of Semnehy where on either bank is a small but interesting temple of the 3rd Thothmes. Camels for the journey to Semneh and back can be. hired at Wady Halfah, for about 6. dollars each. It wUl require 4 or 5 days, according to the rate of going and the stoppages made. The E. bank is perhaps the best to follow: — it is the more pic- turesque, and the most interesting re- mains at Semneh are on that side. The road, which sometimes lies by the river and at others crosses the desert, is very rough in places. The district is called Bain d-Ha^ar, *' the Belly of Itock." Now and then there are little open spaces oa the river-bank with a hut or two, some palms, and a little cultivation. Sedjajeeyeh, a good half- "Way stopping-place, is one. Semneh itself is another similar oasis. Scut Bank. — The Temple consists of a portico, a^ hall parallel to it, ex- tending across the whole breadth of the naos, and one large and three small chambers in the back peurt. It stands in an extensive court or enclo- sure surrounded by a strong crude- brick wall, commanding the river, which runs below it to the westward. In the portico was the tablet recording ttie conquests of Amunoph III. (given by the Duke of Northumberland to the British Museum) : and on the front of the naos, to which are two entrances, Thothmes III. is making offerings to Totouon, the god of Semneh, and to Kneph, one of the contemplar deities. The name of Thothmes II. also occurs [Egupt.—2T. n.J ROUTE 21. — SEMNEH. 545 in. the hieroglyphics; and: those of Amunoph II. and of Osirtasen ITT. are introduced in another part of the temple. West Bank. — In order to cross the river it is necessary to put up with- a. ruder raft than the |}acton, by which Strabo was carried over to PhilsB, this one being merely formed of logs of the ddm palm, lashed together, and pushed forward by men who swim be- hind it. The Semneh natives too are very exorbitant in their demands for ferrying you over. Nor is. it a plea*, sant method of transit when the N. wind is blowing strongly, as the stream being very rapid, the waves. are rather high for crossing in such a fragile craft. How prevalent the N. wind is in this part of Nubia is proved by the fact that the huts of the natives, which are buill of loose stones and dhoora straw, thatohed with the same straw, or with halfah grass, are always placed so as to be sheltered by some rock on the N. side. The Temple only consists of one chamber, about 30 ft. by 11, with an entrance in front, and another on the W. side, opposite whose northern jamb, instead of a square pillar, is a polygonal column, with a line of hiero- glyphics, as usual, down its- central face. On the pillars king Thothmes. Til. is represented in company with Totouon and other deities of the temple; and, what is very remark- able, his ancestor Osirtasen lU. is here treated as a god, and is seen presenting the king with the emblem of life. On the front wall is a tablet in relief, with the name of Amosis, and of Thothmes II. ; and mention is made of the city of Thebes. But this tablet has been defaced by the hieroglyphics of another cut in intaglio over it, appa- rently by a Barneses. At the upper end of the naos is a sitting statue of gritstone, with the emblem of Osiris, intended perhaps to represent the king Osirtasen. Each temple stands within the crude-brick walls of a strong fortress, from which we learn many secrets of the Egyptian system of fortification at that early period; aoid an ixusicunbR^ 546 ROUTE 21. — ^PHIL-E TO WADY HALFAH. SectX. tablet at the western fort tells us that this was made the frontier of Egypt in the reign of the third Osirt£isen. Here the defences are very remark- able; and they present not only the lofty walls and square towers of Egyp- tian fortresses, but the scarp, ditch, counterscarp, and glacis, partaking of the character of more recent works. The traces of a stone causeway show that a road led to the summit of the hill on which it stands, and the water- gate, in this and in the eastern fort, proves from its position that these forts were intended against an enemy from the south, and not against the shepherd invaders of Egypt. Below, on the E. side, falls the Nile, through a narrow passage between the rocks that impede its course ; and just below the platform on which the eastern temple stands are several early hieroglyphic inscriptions, recording the rise of the Nile during the reign of Amenemhat III., of the Xllth Dynasty — the supposed founder of the Laby- rinth — and the Mceris to whom Egypt was indebted for the celebrated lake called after him, and other works con- nected with the irrigation of Egypt. From them, too, and from various indi- cations of the former level of the Nile, to the S. and N. of Semneh, we learn that the inundation rose at that period considerably higher throughout Ethiopia than at the present day ; and the highest record of the inundation in the time of Amenemhat is 27 ft. 3 in. above the greatest rise of the Nile at the present time. The appearance of the river - deposits from Semneh to Gebel Barkal seems to show that the inundation in those ages extended far over the plains in Ethiopia (which are now above the reach of the highest rise of the Nile), and that conse- quently some barrier had given way below Semneh, which had let down the Nile and occasioned this great change in its level throughout Ethi- opia. Supposing that 1°. the river had formerly run through the plain on the E. of Assoodn (where a later torrent gives a section of the old de- posjts of the river) ; 2®. that the temple of OmboB atood on a plain of alluvial soil; and 8**. that similar remains of the Nile deposit are traceable as far as Silflilis, but no farther, the question is decided respecting the position of the barrier which once held up the Nile to that great height which en- abled it annually to flood the plains of Ethiopia; and whose disruption left those plains unwatered by the inundation. The period when this fall of the rocks at Silsilis took place may be fixed between the beginning of the XVinth Dynasty and the reign of the fourth king of the XTTTth, who mentions the rise of the Nile in his 3rd year at the western fort of Semneh ; or rather the reign of the sixth king of the XTTTth, one of the early Sebek- hoteps, whose statue is found at Argo, that island being below the level of the old inundation. (See above, As- soodn and Silsileh.) Fatal as this catastrophe was to the once rich and well-watered plains of Ethiopia, which were thus suddenly deprived of the benefits of the annnal inundation, its effect on Egypt was momentary, and was confined to the lands immediately below SilsiUs, which were submerged and torn up by the falling mass of water ; and this may explain the singular fact of one of the most remarkable changes that eyer took place in so large a river haying been unnoticed even in the scanty annals of Manetho. The ruins of Senmeh are supposed to mark the site of Tasitiay or o' Adna; and we may perhaps trace in the hieroglyphics the name of the ancient town, called in Egyptian '^^ tosha ; unless this be a general ^ pellation of the country, indndiD? Senmeh, Aboo Simbel, and their ^' cinity, and related to the Coptic nam® Ethaush or Ethiopia. If Ptolemy «> to be trusted, Tasitia was on the W* side of the river, and Pnoups oPpy boat) . . 5 Meroe and Gebel Barkal 4 AbooKereet 3 (short) Berber 3 Gong) Khartoom 9-12 Those pressed for time may go direct from Ordee to Meroe across the desert in 3 days. The journey by the river, however, is more interesting. It is * pleasant change to go to Debbah W boat. The craft used in this part of the river is called a nugga. It ^ manned by 3 or 4 men, and has a half-deck, which affords some shelter from the sun. The hire of a nugga from Ordee to Debbah should not pe more than 3 or 4 dollars. The dis- Egyjph ETE. 22. — ^NEW DONGOLA — ^MEROg — ^KHARTOOM. 549 5 days. A short stoppage may be made at Handaky Old Donaola, and Umgoozdh. This last town, which is marked in the maps Ahu Goosa, is the point of departure of the large caravans of Darfoor and Kordofan. A few days' stay here among the slave-traders, where they are out of the reach of consuls and other troublesome people, might be entertaining and instructive. . Debbah is a small town. There is a direct road from it to Khartoom across the desert, which takes 10 days. Ex- cellent and cheap dates can be bought here. Debbah lies just in the great bend of the river that nms from Aboo Hamed to near Old Dongola. Camels to Meroe cost 2^ dollars each. The road lies close to the left bank of the river, and the distance is done in 3 long, OP 4 easy days. The villages on the xoad, such as Ahudom, Ahu-Kol, Korti, &c., present nothing worthy of notice, Three hours before reaching Meroe the striking hill of Gebel Barkal can be seen, standing solitary and impos- ing, though of no great height. MeroS lies on the right bank of the Nile, and is reached by a ferry. It is a small town of no importance. Donkeys can be procured for the excursion to Gebel Barkal, 1 hr. Here are two temples with an avenue of sphinxes of the time of Tirhakah of the XXVth or Ethiopian Dynasty ; as also a group of pyramids. There are also other groups of pyramids at Dankelah, the site of the ancient Meroe, and at Nourri, a few miles further up. They are all of small size, and badly built. Some stelsB discovered by M. Mariette at Gebel Barkal have thrown great light on the obscure period of Egyptian history comprised within the period of the XXIIIrd and two following Dynasties. At Meroe fresh camels must be Procured for the journey to Berber. !'hey will cost about 5 dollars each. As nearly the whole of the journey is over the desert, the water-skins should be well looked to. Five hrs. by the river-side brings you to Nourri^ where are pyramids, as mentioned ibove. The next day is a short one »/ 7i 2uv. through the desert. An> [I^yj,t—FT. IL] other day of 11 hrs. brings the tra- veller to Sanij where there is a well with dirty water, from which the skins may be filled, but it is better to push on 5^ hrs. further to Aboo Kereet, where the water is purer. From Aboo Kereet to Berber is 3 long days without water. Some of the scenery on this road is very beautiful. Bold and lofty hills surround Aboo Ke- reet, and a fine range, called Gebel el Azrek (Blue Hills), is skirted about 12 hrs. before reaching Berber. Berber resembles other Nubian towns in being insignificant and unattractive. It is the point of departure for the Bed Sea caravans to Sow^kin (see below). From Berber to Kiiartoom the journey is continued in a nugga, for which not more than 9 dollars should be paid for the trip of from 9 to 12 days. The dis- trict of Berber is the limit (in this lon- gitude) of the southward fiight of quail, which are found here in midwinter. Crocodiles and hippopotami abound between Berber and Khartoom: and there are swarms of aquatic birds on the sandbanks. Sand-grouse are also plentiful. The mouth of the Atbara is about 20 miles above Berber. No town of any importance lies between Berber and Shendy, a distance of about 120 miles, and the scenery is flat and uninteresting. Mitemna lies at the end of a long reach after Shendy. Forty miles fur- ther on commences the 6th Cataract. There is no difBculty in passing it. The scenery here is striking, the river forcing its way through a range of hills called Gebel Gerri. Another flat and monotonous stretch of country presents itself, broken at last by the minarets of Khartoom. Before reaching the town the Nile opens out southwards into what appears like a vast sea — the shallow and lake-like "White Nile — while a sudden turn carries the boat into the Blue Nile, on the left bank of which stands Khartoom. Khartoom lies at the junction of the Bahr el-Abiad or White Nile, and the Bahr el- Azrek or Blue Nile, the latter of which is probably the true NU&^^a;^ for aa the fettilmTii ^«^\\. '^\!^Oa.\ia.% 550 RTE. 22. — ^wIdy halfah to khartoom and sowaon. Soct. X. the capital of the province of Soodan, and the centre of the trade in the products of that country. It may have about 20,000 inhabitants, but it differs little from the other towns on the Upper Nile except in being of larger si«e. From Khartoom the journey may be continued up the White Nile ; or up the Blue Nile, either to its sources in Abyssinia, or round by Koos Regeb and Kasala to Massowah. The best way of getting to the Red Sea, how- ever, is to return to Berber, and go thence to Sowakin. This journey will take about 12 da3nB easy going. Camels can be procured at Berber for 6 dollars each for the journey, unless it is in- tended to stay in the desert for the purpose of shooting, and then, of course, more will be required. Gazelle and ariel are often seen, and some- times ostriches. The desert is by no means barren, abounding in water, brushwood, and food for the camels. It is interesting to make this journey in company with the pilgrims* ceuravan from Kordofan, composed of Darfoorian and Fellatah Moslems, some of whom take 3 years to cross from the west of Africa. Tbe Bishareen Bedaween form the escort. In journeying with a cara* van care should be taken to start from and arrive at each place before it, so as to fill the watersMns before the supply is exhausted. The following is the direct itine- rary:— Hrs. Berber to Aboo Salab . . 8 Oback 17 Etzoo 4 Ayamet 8 Bowik 4 Kokreb 14} Ahab 10 HarraTreb 5} Ooched 8 Otan 10 Hamdoo .. 3 Sowakin 4 The first well is reached after leaving Berber in 4 hrs., where the Arabs prefer filing their skins to avoid the be pitched at Ahoo 8cUab, where there is no water, though a plentiful crop of doora is grown here after the autumn torrents. Seventeen hrs. fur- ther on is Ohack^ where pretty good water is to be had, and (generally) milk from the flocks driven down for water and pasture by the Arabs. Just before reaching Oback a range of sand- hills (5 miles wide) is crossed, over which the camels flounder and faU. Etzoo (4 hrs.) 9Si'di Ayamet (8 hrs.) have pasture for the camels, but no water is reached till Rowik (4 hrs.y. [Borne- times a different route is taken which branches off at Ayamet, passes through Ariab, and rejoins the main track near Kokreb ; there is not, however, always water in the Ariab welL] A little before Bowik, glens are passed through, in whicii are seen beautiful specimens of petrified wood. Trunks of trees, from 5 to 8 ft high, are still standing {Wanted in tiie soil, while others lie strewn about as in the petrified forest near Cairo. Traces of copper occur here. Kokreb is 14} hrs. from Bowik. After a long desert ride, its solitary palfh, its little gushing spring of water^ and its thick brushwood and vege- tation, make it seem a perfect Eden. Next day a really beautiful range of hills is crossed. AJkah is 10 hnu from Kokreb, and has a deep well with poor water. Three and a half hrs. further on is Harra Treb (good water), and then a mountain^^pass is crossei!, and 8 hrs. from Haira Treb Ooched is reached, a charming spot, rich in water (which lies some 30 inches below the s(»l), full of trees and bushes in which are a variety of birds. Henee to Sowdkin is a 17 hrs.' ride. Water is found on the road at Otan (10 hrs.) and Hamdoo (3 hrs.). Shortly after leaving Hamdoo the crest of a hill is reached, from which is seen the hazy horizon of tbe Bed Sea, and the white, island-boilt town of SowdkiUj whence the traveller may take boat (dhow) for Jedda, or wait patiently till an Egyptian man-of-war {i.e. merchant steamer) calls on its way trouble of carrying water from theviioiD. l&&«»)N Akhiheed dynasty, 60. Alabister quarries, 324, 406^ 4x7. AUnrander, tomb og Mjo, ANTIQUITIES. Alexandria, 113. Harbour, 114. Landing at 115. Custom House, 115. Donkey-boys, &c Z15. Hotels, lodgings, cafes, kc, 115, xi6. Post-office, 116. Telegraph, 116. Servants, 116. Bankers, 116. Carriages, donkeys, 116. Consulates, 117. Medical Men, 117. Shops, &c^ 117. Railways, 117. Steamers, 117. Churches, 118. Boats for the Nile voyage, 118. Plan for seeing, 118. Ancient and modem history and topography, of, 1 19-125. Principal ancient buildings, 125. Pharos, 125. Heptastadium, 126. Museum, library, 126, 127. Serapeum, library, 127-129. Csaarium, Panlum, Gymnasium, 130. Ancient remains, X31. Cleopatra's Needles, 131. Pompey's Pillar, 13 2. Population, ancient and modem, 133. Clhnate, 134. Government, 135. Com- merce and industiy, 135. Ports, gates, walls, 135. Streets, &a, 136. Canals, 137. Mosques, churches, convents, 138. Hospitals, clianties, 138. Schools, 139. Theatres, amusements, &c., X39. Drives, excursions, 139. Catacombs, Quarries of Mex, 140. Arsenal, Ras et-Teen, 140. Ramleh, Cesar's camp, 141. Alexandria to Rosetta, by land, 142. to Port Said and Suez by water, 145. to Suez by rail, 145. to Cairo, by the Mahmoodeeyeh canal and the Nile, 146. ' to Cairo by Railway, iji. to the Oasis of Seewah, 366. Alluvial deposit, xo, 20, $15, 519, 528, 548. Almanac of the 4th century, $33- Amada, $39* Amba Bi^oi, 430. AmbaMus^ 437. Amba Shenoodeh, 230. Amen, or Amen-ra, 86. Amenemhat III., 40. 47, 380. Ameneritis, Queen, statue of, 205. Ameni, tomb of^ 409. Amer (Amroo), 50. Mosque of, at old Cairo, 227. At Assooui, 519. Ammon, Oasis of, 367. Temple, 368. Amoodayn, 368. Amunoph, or Amenhotep, III., 49. Statues of, at Thebeti, 462. Tomb of, at Thebes, 483. Temple of, at Luxor, $02. Amunoph, or Amenhotep, IV., 49. As Khoo- en-Aten at Tel el-Amarno, 418. Anasieh, Heracleopolis, 398. Ancient remains of Alcjuuidria, 131. Animals well represented, 402. Names written over, 4x2. Animsis, domestic, 24. , wild, 25. Antasopolis, 426. Antinoe, mins of, 414. Ruins and tombs in the vicinitv,i^\\. Antiquities, i&xiaiexmi otl£ie!t^^Kc^ \cj^. % ^ 652 INDEX. ANTIQUITIES. Antianities, spurious, 8j. Antiraodus, i^and of, 122. AnuUs, 87. Apartmentflk 6. At Alexandria, 116. At Cairo, 158. Ape mummies, 49J. Aphroditopolis, Atfeeyeh, J97. Aphroditopolls, Itfoo, 428. Apis Mausoleum, or Serapeum, 272. Apollinopolis Magna, $10. ApoIIinopolis Parva, site of, 448. Arab bridges near the Pyramids, 264. Arab tribes, ji. JJ4, 558, J98. Arabat el-Matfo6n, 43^. Arabic language, 92. alphabet, 9J. — — vocabulary, 94-X12. Arabic character first used, 17 ^ Arch, early use of the, 78, 262, 276, 409, 437, 475, 485. , imitation of the, 409. , pent-rool^ 2J2. , pointed, 81, 176, 182, 227, 233, 519, 52*7. — — , pointed, with a horseshoe base, 167, 181. — -, round horseshoe, rare in Egjrpt, 175. Archaeology and Art, old Egyptian, 74. , Arabian, 79. Architecture, old Egyptian, 78. Arabiui, 80. Argo, isle of, 548. Ariuf, 57. Armenians, the, 34. Arrows tipped with stone for the chose, 410, 491- . ^ — — with metal points for war, 492. ArsinoS, ancient canal of, 294. Site 0^ 377. Art, old Egyptian, 78 et passim, — — Arabian, 79. Ashmoon, 150, J14. Assaseef, tombs of the, 484. Assooin, 517. Palms and dates of, 520. Astronomical ceilings, 440, 461, 482, 507. Asyoot, 422. Atfeeyeh, Aphroditopolis, 397. Atfeli, 145, 147. Athanasius, 57. Letter of, 488. Athor, 87. Athribis, ruins of, 154. Athribis, or Crocodilopolis, 429. Atreeb, Benba el Assal, 154. Attar en-Nebbee, Mosque of, 394. Ayamet, 550. Ayoobite dynasty, 61. Ayserat, 432. BabXtt, 395. Bab el-Mandeb, straits of, 291. Bab el-Molook, Tombs, or Gates of the Kings at Thebes, 476, Babylon, Egyptian, 228. Backsheesh, 393 et passim, Baharite Memlook dynasty, 62. Tombs 0^ 193. Bahrayn, 367. Bahr el-Abiad and Bahr el Azrek, 549. Bahr el-Fargh, or Bahr-bela-ma, 363. Bahr es-Sogheiyer, 313. Bahr et-Tahooneb, 384. Babr et-Timaib, 304. Babr Yoosef Canal, 3 78, j 79, 419. Moon, 438, •Hm// game of, 4x1, \ BTBLKET, Ballab, Lake, 306. Ball^b, 446. Jars, 446. Ballat, 372. Balsam, 223. Barfibras, the modem Nubians, 32. Baratoon, 366. Bardees, 433* Baroog, 425. Barrage of the Nile, 150, 224. Basdna, 427. Baths at Cairo, 195. Baths of Cleopatra, 140. Baths, sulphur, at Uelw&n, 278. Batn el-Hi£gar. 544, 548. Battle of the Nile, 142. Battle of the Pyramids, 151. Battle-scenes at the Memnonlum, 459, At Medeenet H^boo, 470. At Luxor, AtKarnak, 500. At Bayt el-Wellee^ At Derr, 539. At Aboo-Simbel, 541. Bayrees, 37$. Bayt el-Wellee, 534. Bazaars at Cairo, 19;. Ikbayt el-Hdgar, 311* Bedaween, the, 31. Bedrasheeyeb, 317. Bedreshayu stat^ 266, 395. Beer Aboo Balk, 330. Beer el-Abd, 329. Beer el-Ingleez, 326. Beer el-Batter, 334. Beer Suez, 334. Beggars in KgjpU 168, 398. Christian, 403 Behne8a,4oo. Belitk. 375. Belbeis stat, 284. Beled Room, 368. Bellianeh, 433. Belzoni's tomb at Thebes, of Sethi I^ 477. Benba el- Assal, 154, 311. Benha Junct. Stat., 154. Benl Adee, or Ali, 421. Beni Hassan, grottoes of. 407-413. Village, Beni Mohammed el-Kofoor, grottoes, 421. Beni Sal&meb, i^o. Beni Wfisel Arabs, 398. Benisooef, 379, 398. Benneb, 311. Benoob, 313. Ben6ob el-Hamam, 422. Benoot, 445. Benoweet, 427. Berber, 549. Berberee, 32. Beremb&l, 145. Berenice, 202, 327. Berimb&l el-Kebeer, 314. Berkook, 63. Mosque of, i8r. Tomb of, i Bershoom, 311. Beshendy, ruined town of, 372. Biahmoo, ruins of, 380. Bibbeh, mounds and convent at, 399, Biggeh, island of, 527. Big^ obelisk, 380. Birds of Egypt, 26. Birket el- Akrashar, 22 ?. Birket el-Hagg, 223, 328. Birket el-Kom, 382. Birket es-Sab stat, 154. EOlJ-miDM, m. irlborfAt-J«,,.,Il BUd!ls.ftL* of the.),.. Boiia. wIM. 5. ISO. If I. no, ]B.. B™u,ni.dc t£tapii™.'ic«^bod BMiiotllie N-lle. 118, 160. BoBhu,ths iu»rl)iuDklu,)i{. BolblUna br UlChoftl.eNUe,.^^. Bqmjb, SII Book 0( tbe DeoJ. nr Kltail, 37, tiDD troin Books, Lin f.i^I. Boulilt, i!i Booliked-Dj Boosh.)^ Borddnital m- ritba^tera, but not Jev Foombel iDiinndii, J96. fucti'ft, DT Iha Hflrpera* t BubasUa. 184. BureUuirdl. ton Burlol-plKeofl Jfwi, !■;!; otAj^B,!;!. ^hjipcl ol tbe. Sina[, J5^ byndftyeh silUgE, ^i+ Cah«. Teniiinus.15 Jlot^Io, I5,r Lodgtpgs. B. CarrUgM, 53. BanbTfl. OSce, 153. Telegr£pbi>. i donkpyn, 158. Scrrimls. Coiisulal«i,MedicalMen, 1)9- . . people, jf^. A^iiu Tor iomtiiag goods, ilo. Ctaurdii't, 160. Ridlvsyi, 160. Boata for IbB Nile voyigo. aLnmen, ifa. PUu foTBCeiag, 161, IliBtorf, i6l- Tupognphj, i6j. (.■opl. Jcwi". ani Frank tJuaitBrB, i4j. 165. OrJenUU cburacler of. 164. CUrute, ClUdBl, 171. Uosquo of Muhimm^l AH, x^l. Joieph'H Well, 171. TdoBqucs, chnrdie^ I73'i9ci. Tomba, cemctn^i. 190. Scbewla, or public fODQlJitoa. j^ BuCba. 105, Buu&rtt, S5. Palace^ 197. ScbooLi, Lrbniries. 197, DMum, i93-!o6, Hi»pltals and Bone. volent SodMics, 106. rbMtrce, amoae- viabes. lOT-iio. Fratliiils aad nllgioiii Blon to Shoobn, 119. To HellopuUa, 1 To tbe "Poiriarf Forac" 115. To 1 Bsmse, 114. To Old Cairo, iiS. Boolal[uidaGice[Tli.l;4. TaUioPrrjunl 116. To Sikkirnta, 16;. To Helwi Toora, awl Mosfirah, 177. Cslro. old, 116. UMquc vt Auicr. 216. Roir (ortreiB of rtohyloD, iiB. O^tlo coavB uid dmrcbea, iii^iji. moDBBtrrlefl. j6c. — to Ibe LlillQ Oasis, the Qtal Oasis, ind lh(^ Oasis of DaUleb. by Ibe Faj'Dom. 16& — Up Ibo coovenla of Su AdIobj and St. Paul In Um H^irtem deart, }ij. ■ — to Thahea by tlie Nik, 394. Ouul, ancient, betniwD Metlltecnneim and Bed Canal of Calio._cntlln|( of tbe, 170, lij. Yoo&Bf, 37a, J79, « Nile, .4). ISO. Cartoncbo, or ^ie. "wlibklDgf'i^^ Cbalouf. KC Sbaloof. CbamelpoTj. f r9- Cbeopi, or Shoofoo, 46. Pyianild of. 144. ClieiJiroB. or Khalm, 46. Slatuo ot, : ri)T% 501. ■ IS 369. 311. 376,406.407,41 -°° -33, J1*J4 NnWa,4H SI). 5J9, m- broniilDElcal TiblB of EgypUaii djiiaitlEe an kings. 4I-«i. burcbcB, u Alaisndiia. ii3. 139. At Ctitt . 160, 187-190. At OW Cnlro. no. In the ■■ 'iBBla of Sml, J- - )99i ^'4- ^'9'«f;f^?] 1' J. 347. !53- Up tl Cnrcsislan, or Borghile Memlook dyaul7, 6). ■--lbs of, 190. , sMne, 14J. 34>. lof Cairo, 171. tra. (4. DaUis of, 140. Portiall of. at ictali, 4jp. WE.TmEDS,y)V- \ CteopMii.' B Xaeiita, %n . 554 INDEX. CLIMATE. Climate of Egypt, 7. Of Alexandria, 154. Of Cairo, 166. Clothing and mode of life, X2. Coins, comparative table of, 3. Colossi of Tliebes, 462. Colossus on a sledge, 415. Colours, or paints of tbe Egyptians, 51 j, 514. Columbarium in the Great Oasis, J7i. Commerce, 37. Of Alexandria, IJ5, Consulates, courts of Justice, 2. Contra-ApoUinopolis, ancient road from, to Emerald mines, J27. Contra-Latron, temple at, 507. Contra Syene, 521. Contract with Dragoman, j88, 522. Convent or monastery of Gebel et-Tayr, 402. Of Mount Sinai, 352. Of Geergeh, 432. The oldest in i^gypt, at Esneb, 507. Convents or monasteries near AntinoS, 414. Near Negddeh, 448. Of St. Antony and St. Paul, J24. Of tbe Natron lakes, 363. Of Boosh, 398. White, 428. Red, 4J0. In Is- land of Tabenna, 4JQ. . other, 229, J69, 398, 399, 414, 420, 4J7, 448,478. -, number of, in Bferpt, 366. . Coptic convents and churches at old Cairo, 229- 232. Coptos, 446. to Berenice, road from, 326. Copts, the, 31, Coronation ceremony at Thebes, 469. Crocodile mummies, 421. Crocodiles, 25. 275, 421, 444, 515, 539. 54°. 540- Power of Tentyrites over, 444. Character- istics of, 444. Sacred, 378, 398, 445. Crocodilopolis, 378, 379. 429, 506. Crusaders in Egypt, 61, 138, 147, 226, 313, 315. CuJQc, see Kufic. Cnsh, '* Ethiopia," name of, 530, 536. Custom-House, 2. At Alexandria, 115. Cynopolls, 401. Cyperus, 314. Cysis, 3:5' Da66d temple, 532. Dahabeeyeh, description and price of, 160. In- formation respecting voyage in, 387. Dahreeyeh, 149. Dakhleh, oasis of, 371. Fruits, character of the inhabitants, 373. to the Great Oasis, 373. Dakkeh, temple of, 536. Dallas, 397. Damanhoor stat., 152. Damietta, 144, 315* Darius Hystaspes, 51, 374. Daroot, 145. Daroot-Oshmoon, 417. Daroot esh-Shereef, 419. Dashoor, pyramids of, 277. Dates in drums at Keneh, 44^. of Seewah, 367. Of the Little Oasis, 370. Of Assoofin, 520. Of Ibreem, 531, Dayr Aboo Sepheen, 230. Amba Bii^hoi, 365. — — Amba Mattaos, 507. Amb& MusiCss, 437. — Babloon, 232. — Baramoos, 366, — B6I0B, 324, DYNASTIES. Dayr By^, village of, 323. 398. El-Adaweeyeh, 232. — — el-Adra, 403, — — el-Arb^n, 356. el-Bahree, temple of, 474. — ^ el-Bukkara, 420. el-Gibr4wee, 422. el-Hfigar, 372. el-Medeeneh, temple of, 473. el-Melfik, 448. Es-Seleeb, 4^8. — — Macarius, 304. Manaos wa Shenoodeh, 507. Mar-Antonios, 324. Mari Boktee, 448. Mari Girgis, 2jo, 448. — Mari Mena, 229. — - Suritoi, 365 Tassa, 425. Tedreus, 232. Debbah, 549. Debbet er-Kamleh, 350. Debebat Sheykh Ahmed, 351. Dekakeen, 375. Delta, the, 19, 153. , apex, or S. end of the, 150, 224. Demfek, 448. Denderah, temple of, 4;9-^3. Dendoor, temple of, 535. Derb el-Bussateen, 334. Derb el-Hag, 334. Derb el-Hamra, 334- Derb er Russdfa, 326. Derb et-Tow&rah, 334, Derb Imow, 425. Derr or Dayr, capital of Nubia, 539. Dervishes, 207 ; dancing, 208 ; howling 2°9- Monasteries or Colleges of, 208. Desert, preparation for Journeys in tbe, 33^}}}' Desert, the "Long," vlft Mt. Sinai, Akaw^ and Petra, 357, or vi5 Mt. Sinai and NanJ^'' to Syria. 359. , the •• Short," to Syria, 328. Dessook, fSte, 147. Dimfiy, ruins at, in the Fayoom, 383* , , Diocletian, 57. Monument in honour ot W- Inscription, time of, 544. Dlodorus, 233 et passim. Dlospolis Parva, ruins of, 438. Diseases for which climate is beneficial, lo- Dishneh, 4?9. , Divinities, Illustrated list of principal Bgyp'""' 86. Statues of, at Boolak Museum, 20i> Dog and cat mummies, 401, 420: Dogs, 25. 438. Dom-trees, or Theban palms, 4x9. Dongola, New, 548. , Old, 549. Doosh, temple of, 375. Doric column, prototype of the, 78, 408, 5^4* D^eh at Cairo, 215. . . Dragoman, 7, 159, 387, 392. Contract wiu, 387. Drah Aboo Bereek, 368 Drab Aboo'l Negga, tombs ot 484. Draughts, game of, 412, 466. Drawing, old Egyptian, 79; ezoelleDoe (a,^7h INDEX. 555 EAGLES. £agles, 26. £br4s, 430. £d-Dayr, Christian village, 414. Temple of, 506. "Ed-Dayr el-Koosajr, 419. Ed-Dayr en-Nakhl, 415. l^lfoo temples, 510. Marsh or lake near, Edko lake, 14J. Stat 144. Education, 36. Eel (the phagrus) represented, 411. £C^, artificial hatching of, 31$ 2j8. El-Qimsbeh, 291. Egypt, river of, J29. Egyptian boats, description of ancient, 5x0. — — ^ temples, general description of, 74-76. Eileithyias, ruins at, 508. Grottoes at, 509. Ekhmeem, 430. El-Arabba, 448. El-Areesh, J29. El-Arrag, 367. El-Azhar, University of, 179, 197. Moeqne of, 178. El-Bedareh, 426. El-Beerbeb mounds, 43J. £1-Benii(n, 381. £1-Bersheh. 415. El-Booka Stat., 3x6. El-Dooknesra, grotto at, 540. EI-Edwa stat, 377. El-Eghayta. wells of, 342. El-Errees, 371. EUFerdane. 306. El-6ara. 366, 367. El-Gars^, 342. £l-0h6rek, 381. £1-Gh6ree, 63. Mosque of, 184. £l EUHamra, 422, 4)8. El-Harelb, 42a El-Hassaneyn, Mosque of, 179. El-H^ybee. ruins at, 399. El-Hayz, oasis of, 371* El-Helleh, 507. El-Hesweh, 145. El-Howane, 406. El-Eab. 508. El-Kafr, 395. £1-Kila village, 447. ElKameeseh, 368. El-Kasr, 370, 372. El-Kays, mounds at, 401. El*Ken&n, 507. El-Khanka, 223. EUKhilrgeh temple, 374. El-Khowin>id mountite, 425. El'Kom el-Ahmar, 507. El-Kodla pyramid, 507. El-Maadeeyeh Stat., 143. EUMadhawwa, 346. El-Maharrad, 345« El-Mandarah stat, 142. El-Marazee, 397. El-Markhah, 343. El-M^tearah, 278. El-Mohammedeeyeb stat, 142. El-Mtidmnr, mounds at, 425. El-Muggreh plain, J94. FUNEBAU El-Mdktala. 334. El-Murkheiyeh, 343. El-W«idy, district of, 286. El-W4dy, village of, in Fayoom, 383. Ifil-Wasta, 425. El-Wastajunct stat, 377, Elephantine, island of. 520. Emb&beh, x$i. Battle of the Pyramids, ivr. Emerald-mines, 327. Ancient road from Gontra ApoUinopolis to, 327. En-NadtCra, 375. En-Nasr, 62. Mosque of, 181. English and Arabic vocabuliuy, 92-112. Epitaphs at Assoo&n, 518. Er-Rah{Qi. 349. Ergamenes, king of Ethiopia, 536. Erment temple, 505. Erweis el-Erbeirig, 351, 359. Esbekeeyeh, the, 170. Esh-Shooma, 291. Esh-Shiirafa town, 447. EsnSh, temple and town of, 506. Es-Seleeb convent, 448. Es-Sid, 146. Ethiopia. 530. See Nubia. Etzoo, 550. Emiosttts, port of, at Alexandria, X14, 135. Enroi)eans in i^pt, 34. Excursions from Cairo, 2i9-28a From Medee- neh in the Fayoom, 378. To Behnesa, 400. To Abydus, 4^3. Expenses of a Visit to Egypt, xlv. From Ga iro to Mount Sinai, 331. Of Nile voyage, 387. Faid stat, 287. Farfifreb, oasis of^ 371. Faras or Farras, 543. Faras Koor, 315. FtCres. 515. Farshoot, 438. Fatemite dynasty, 6a Fayoom, the, 336. Route to, 376. FeinCn, ruins of, 347. Fellaheen, the, 29. Fertfyg temple and church, 543. Feshun, 399. Festivals at Cairo, 210. At Tantah, 153. Fidedeen, 384. Figures drawn In squares, 47a 516- Fish, 28. Flamingoes. 27, 307, 321. Flint implements, 279. Flora of Egypt, 21. Fons Tnyauus. 325. Fooah, 147. Forts, Roman, 228, 375. Fortification, system of Egyptian, 4C0, 508, 537, 546. Fossil remahis, 223, 244, 310, 4x3. Fossil wood, 224. 264, 334. Fost^t, 162, 226. Fountains at Cairo, 194. Of the sun, 223. Of Moses, 289, 355. Fow, ^28, 439. Fox, the, 25, 337. French, the occupation of Egypt by, 64, 142 144, xji, X69, 526. Frescoes at Thebes, Romany 495. Foneral ceremonies, 407. 556 INDEX. gabbInet, GabbIket el-Kero6d, 49 j. Gaeenah, j-js. GramiUe, ruins of a temple at, $;2. Gam61a, 448. Gashinkeer, mosque of, 183. Gassassino, 286. Gates of Alexandria, 136. Of Cairo, 168. Gaza. 3J0. Gazelles, 25, 305, 341, 362, 550. Grebel Aboufayda, 420. Qebel Aboo Ghabab, 512. Gebel A in Amoor, 373. Gebel Allakee, 3*7. Grebel Att£[kab, 289. Gebelayn, 506. Gebel Barkal, 509. Tablets fonnd at, 2o6. Gebel ed-Dokban, porphyry quarries of, i24. Gebel el-Ahmar. 224. Gebel el-Azrek, 549. Gebel el-Fateereh, 325. Gebel el-M6t, 368. Gebel er-Rossdss, lead-mines of, 291. Gebel esh-Sbems, 543. t Gebel esh-Sheykh Said, 417. Gebel et-Tayr, 402. Gebel ez-Zeit, 290. Gebel Ferraid, 327 Gebel Gerri, 549. Gebel Marag, 422. Gebel Mokattam, 162, 171, 224, 394. Gebel Shekh Embarak, 400. Gebel Shekh Hereedee, 427. Gebel Silsileh, 512. Gebel Tookh, 432, 439. Gebel Toona, 417. Gebel Zab&rah, emerald-mines of, 327. Geergeh, 432. See Girgeh. Geezeh, 237. l^yrumld platform of, 243. Gemeleeyeh, 3 14. Geneffeh stat., 287. Hills, 287. Geography of Ancient Egypt, 12. Of Modem Egypt, 15. Geology of Egypt, 19. George, St., converted, into a Moslem saint, 399. 428. Gerf HossHyn, 536. Gert&see, «33. Gezecreh, Palace of, 236. Gezeeret Gattey, 540. Gbanaseem, 375. Gharmee, 368. Gbawiizee, or dancing-girls, 445, 506. Gh6ree, 63. Mosque of, 184. Girgeh, 432. Gisr el-Agoos, 403, 413, 420, 422. Glasd, Arab, 82. Glass-house, ancient, at Natron lakes, 36a Gloves, ancient. 489. Gold-mines at Gebel AlliUcee, 327, 538. Goltfsanoh, 402. Government, mode of, 34. Gow el-Kebeer, 426. Gow el-Gharbeeyeh, 427. Granite, Imitation of, 409. quarries of Gebel Fate6reh, 325. In tbe neJgbbourhood of Assodan, 519. • sculptures in relief, 312, 4B3. Great Oasis, the, ^73. Roads trom Abyd\i8 lo, ureat Pyramid, the, description of, 244. ISEUM. Hadji Kandeel, 418. Hadra stat., 151. Hadrian, 55> 4i4« 46?. Hiigar er-Kekkab, 341. H^gar es-Sal&m, 400. H&gar Silsileh, 512. Hajar el-Magareon, 356. Hfikim, 60. Musque of, 176. Hamitha, dog mummies at. 4C». Hamdoo, 550. Hammamtit, Wells of,.j26, 446. Handak, $49. Hannak, Cataract of, 548. Harbayt, 316. Hare, desert, 25, 3?7. 5J9» Haroon. hill of, 356. Harra Treb, 550. Harris, Mr., 421, 422, 432. Hassan Sultan, 62. Musque of, 176. Hassaneyn, mosque of, 179. Heheeyeh stat., 316. Heliopolis, 22a Obelisk, 221. Helw^n, baths of, 279, 394. Henneh, 535. Heptastadium, the, 126. Heracleopolis, Anasieh, 398. Hereedee, Sheykh, 427. Hereet, mounds of, 382. Hermonthis temple, $0%, Hermopolis Magna, 416. Herodotus, j^f^et pa^im. Heroopolis, 293. Hesy el-Ehatt^teen, supposed to be the rock struck by Moses. 345. Hieraoonpolls, 507. Hierasycaminon, 538. Hieroglyphs, method of wi-iting, 6$. , common forms of, 68. Hippopotami, 275, 549. Historical sculptures at Eamak, 50(X A' Medeenet Hfiboo, 470. iS^e« Battle scenes. History of Egypt, sources of, 37. Gen*^^ sketch of, 38. History and Topography of Alexandria, H^ Of Cairo. 1 62. Of Thebes, 453. Horses in Egypt, first seen on bculptures, ^H* Horns, 87. Hospitals, &c., at Alexandria, 138. At GaK® 197. Hotels, 6. At Alexandria, 115. At Cairo, iVb Houses, Arab, 81, 164. How, Diospolis Parva, 438. How&ra Arabs, 438. Howaweesh grottoes, 432. Hyksos, the, 41, 48, 205, 318, |2a Hyrena, the, 25, 264, 337. 45i. Hypsele, 425. Ibis, the, 27. IbraJiUn Port, 289. ibreem, 540. Ichneumon, worship of the, 398. Illahoon Pyramid, 379, 398. Industry of Egypt, 30. Inhabitants of Egypt, 29. Insects, 28. Inundations, annual, of the Nile, 19. l^^mbckol, $41. ^'ee Aboo SimbeL INDEX. 557 ISIDM. Isium, 422. Isis, 88. Islands of Shelekan, 150. Of Tabenna, 4 jo. Of Elephantine, 520. OfSeMyl52i. OfPhllae, 524. Of Biggeh, 527. Of Argo, 548. Ismail Fasba (late Khedive), 65 et passim. Ismailia, 286, J04. Hotel, J04. Waterworks, 30$. lament, in the Oasis, ruins of, 372. Isment el-Bahr, 398. Israelites, passage of the, 290, jj8. Boute of the, 33S. Itfoo, 428. Jebel Bisher, 341. Jebel ed-Dayr, 357. Jebel el-Marlshah, 34;. Jebel el-Monefjah, 347. ^57* Jebel et-Tahooneh, 347. Jebel Hamm&m Pharoon, 342. ' Jebel Katareena, ascent of, 356. Jebel Merzegah, 345. Jebel Moosa, ascent of, and R£s Sufs£feh, 35$' Jebel Ndgoos, 357- Jebel Serbdl, ascent of, 345. Jebel Zebeer, 356. Jephsehan, ^20. Jewellery, Arab, 82, 196. Jews in Egypt, 34. Joseph's Well, 173. Justice, Administration of, 35. Juvenal, banished to Assoo^n, 518. Kadi's Court at Alexandria, 135. At Cairo, 167. Kafr Daood stat., 150. Kafr Douar stat., 152. Kafr el-Ai^t, 395. Kafr ez-Zyat stat., 152. Kafr Mukfoot, 384. Kafr Terrash stat., 317 Kaitbev, 63. Tomb of, 192. Kaltfbsheh, 533. Kalaiat Baian, 334. Kalamoon,372. Kalioob junct. stat., 155, 282. Kalaoon, 62. Mosque of, 180. Kalat eUKebsh, 175. Kantarab, 306. Karioon, 147. Kamak, the Gjeat Temple, 495. Plan of, ^96. Historical sculptures in tne, 500. Other buildings and remains, 502. Causes of its destruction, 504. Karrawee, 147. Kasr Ain es-Sont, 373. Kasr Ain ez-Zayto, 375. Kasr ei-Areesh, 372. Kasr el-Ben&t, 382. Kasr el-(4oeytah, 375. Kasr el-Hdgar, 375. Kasr es-Sy^d, 438. Kasr esh-Shemmah.and site of Roman fortress of Babylon, 228, 230. Kasr Kharoon, ruins of, 382. Kasr Room, 368. Keneh, 325, 42$. Kendos, or Kensee, tribe, 530. Ketk^tee, 428. KeyBsooD, or Koossood, mosque of, 132. LYCOPOLIS. Kbaleeg, the, or Canal of Cairo, 170, 428. Khan Yo<5nes, 329. Khalife, the, 43, 59. Tombs of, 190. Kh^n Khaleel, bazaar, 195. Khartoom, 549. Kbem, 88. Kheyrbek, mosque of, 183. Kbons, 88. Khoo-en-aten, 41, 49, 418. Kibdtus, the, 123. Kings, list of, 45-65. Kings, hierogljrphic names of, 69-73. Kings, tombs of the, at Thebes, 470. Knnm, or Kneph, 8d. Knum-hotep, tomb of, 410. Kobt, the ancient Coptos, 326, 446. Kodabeh, 149. Ko-komeb, 270, 271. Kokreb, 550. Kolzim, 288. Kom Ahmar, mounds at, 507. Kom Ayr, 507. Kom el-Hettan, 462. Kom es-Sultan, 436. Kom Ombo, 516. Kom Weseem, ruins of, 383. Konosso, island of^ 527. Koobah, 221. Koomeh, temple of, 455. Koomet Murraee, tombs of, 491. Koortee, 538. Koos, 448. Koos-kam, 425. Korin, illustrated copies of the, 82, 198. Korosko, 538. ^ Korti, 549. Kossayan, 420. Kosseir, 201. Kostanmen, 536. Kotoor, 317. Kubban, 537. Kufic inscriptions, 175, 176, 233, 519. Kuteeyeh, 425. Labyrinth, the, and lAke Moeris, 378. Lah^wah, 432. Lakes, 17. Mareotis, 146, 151. Timsah, 304. Ballah, 306. Menzaleh, 307, 321. Mceris, 379. Lakes, the Bitter, 287, 302. Latopolis, 506. See Esneh. Lead-mines of Gebel er-Ross^, 291. LekbuLis, 150. Lepidotum, 438. Leiseps, M. de, 296. Leucos Portus, 291. Levantines, the, 33, Libba, 366. Libraries of Ancient Alexandria, 127, 129. at Cairo, 197. at Convent of St. Catherine, 354. at Monasteries of Natron Valley, 365. Libyan Hills^ the, 416, 439 et passim. Limestone quarries, 279. 402, 407, 413, 417. Linant-Bey, M., 224, 295, 379. Lisht, Pyramids of, 395. Little Oasis, the, 370. Lowbgeh wine, in the Oasis, 370. Luxor, 4^Q, 450, 493. Luxor f Ihebes) to Assootin, the First Cataract and Pnilse, 505. LycopoVka, ^13. See K«:|w^. 558 INDEX. MA. Ma, 89. Maabdeh, caverns and crocodile mommy pits of, 421. Macreezee, 129 etpoitim. Magh^ha, 400. Sfaghirah, turquoise mines at, J44. Magharat Eafes, rock-tomb, 430. Mahallet Dtfmaneh, 314. el-Kebeer stat., 317. Rokh Stat, 317. Maharraker, 538. Mahass, district ot 548. Mabattah, 524. **Mahittah," or day's Journey, length of a, 547- Mahmoodeeyeh Canal, the, IJ7, 146. Mahsamab stat. 286. Makkemeb, 135. See Kadi's Court Malateeyeb, mounds at, 400. Malkeh, 538. Maneeha, 515. Manfaloot, 421. Mankabat, 422. Manna of the Desert, $35. Mansoorali, 313- to Menzaleh and the lake, ji j. Terminus stat., 316. Mansooreeyeh, island of, 517. Mar£glia, 427. Mareeyeh, 370. Mareotis, lake, 146, 151. Marl Boktee, 448. Mariette, M., 149 et panim. His discovery of the Serapeum, or Apis Mausoleum, 272. Mastfrah, quarries of, 279. Masghdon, 395* Massowah, 292. Matareeyeh. 223, J2i. Maut, 89. Mi£yan Moosa, 355. Maydoom, pyramid of, 395. Mazar, 329. Measures and weights, 4. Medam6t, 449. Medeeneh, or Medeenet el-Fayoom, stat., 377. Excursions from, 381. Medeeneh Keeild, 372. Medeenet Ashaysh, 429. Medeenet Haboo, temples of, 464. Medeenet Sinsini, 422. Medicines, 12. Mellawee, 417. Memlooks, 62, 63, 151. Masaacre of, 171. Memnon, the Vocal, 462. Memnon, tomb of, 482. Memnonium, 45*7. .S'ee Rameseum. Memphis, history of, 266. Remains of; 269. Colossal statue, 269. Men&sheh, 150. Mendes, site of, 314. Mendesian branch of the Nile, 151. Menes, 39, 46. His Dyke, 267, 395. Menoof, 311. Mensheeyeh, 4J2. Menzaleh, lake, 307, 321. , canal of, 113. Merddaee, mosque oft iB}. MeroS, pfg. Mertesek, j6y. MeUUuan, 4eyj, MetoobiB, J45. ' NAWAMEES. Mex, quarries ot 143. Mines, emerald, 327. , gold, 327. , lead, 291. , turquoise, 344. Minieh, 406. Cemetery at, 407. Miniet el-Geer, 399. Miniet-Sllseel. J14. Mishte, mounds at, 427. Mit Bereh, 311. Mit Damees, 311. Mitenma, 549. Mit en-Nasarah, 314. Mit Fares, 314. MitGhumr, 3 it. Mitrahenny, 266, 395. Moaiyud, 6}. Mosque of, 181. Mceris. lake, 379. Moez Canal, the, 155, 315. Mohammed All, 64, 171,194,906. Mosqueot 17I' Mohammed Bey, mosque of, 179. Moileh, valley of, 369. Mokattam hills, the, 162, 171, 224, 218. Monasteries in Egypt, 57. At the Natron val- ley, 363. Money, 2. Mons Pentedactylus, 327. Moosh, 42$. JVIooskee, Uie, 170. Morg<$se, 532. Moses, fountain of, 289. Mosque, general description of a, 8a Mosques at Alexandria, ij8. MosQUBs AT Cairo, 173— El-Akbar, 208; Aajr (Old Cairo), 226 ; El-Azhar, 178 ; BerkWKi 181 ; Gashhikeer, 183 ; El-Gh6ree, 184 : ^^ kim,i76; Sultan Hassan, 176; Ea-Haaan^ 179; Ibn-Mizheh, 185; Kalaoon, 180; KJ* el-Aln, 209; Keyssoon, 182 ; Kheyrbek, »>• Merd^ee, 183; Mohammed Ali, 172 «J!^ hammed Bey, 179; En-Namr, 181: Moaljw 181 ; Sheykhoon, 182; Sitteh Safem, w Ak-Sunkur, or Ibrahim Agha, i8j ; ToolooO' 174 ; Ez-Zahir, 220 ; Sliteh Zeyneh, xjj- Other less important mosques, i85i ^^ Mosques at Boolak, 235* ^ Mount Sinai, instructions for Journey to, iy*' See Sinai. Mountain, the red, 264. Mtidmur, 425. Mummy pits, ibis, 271, 416. Dog and cat, tR* 420. Crocodile, 421. Ape, 493. Woli;4^*- Muristin, the, 180. Museum, the, of ancient Alexandria, I26i of EorpUan antiquities at m"- (Cairo), 198. MutAneh, 506. V, Mycerinud, or Menkaoora, 46. His pyno^ 255. Myos Hormos, ruins 0^ 291. Nader, ko. Napata, 530. Napoleon Buonaparte, 64, 152. , Natho, site of, 311. Natron lakes and valley, the, j6o. '&laXx Papyri, purchase ot, 452. Pftphor, 425. Pasht, 90. Passalon, 427. Passports, 2. Pelicans, 27, 307, 321. Pblusiac branch of the Nile, 292, 293, 308. Pelusium, site of, 308, 328. Peninsula of Sinai, 334. See Sinai. •* Petrified ForesC the, 223. Pharaoh, derivation of the title, 69. "Pharaoh's Hot-bath," 342. ** Pharaoh's Throne *' at Sakkdrah, 271. Pharaooneeyeh. 3ix* Pharbeethus, 316. Pharos, isle of, 125. Philse, island of. 524. Temple, 524. to Wddy Halfiah, 532. Philotera, port of, 291. Pigeons, 27. Pigeon towers. 427, 448. Pilgrims, departure of, for Mecca, 218. Pipe-bowls at Asyoot, 422. Plants of Egypt, 21. Pliny, 120 et pousim. Plovers, 26. Plutardi, 120 et passim. Pompey's Pillar, 132. Population of Egypt, "29. Of Alexandria, 133. Of Cairo, 166. Porphyry quarries of Gebel ed-Dokhan, 324. Port Said, 308. Hotels, steamers, 308. Ports and moles, 309. Post Office, 6. At Alexandria, 116. At Cairo, 158. Pottery, Arab, 82, 422, 44$, 446. Priests, tombs ot^ 4^4. Primis Parva, 540. Printing-press at Boolak, 235. Products of Egypt, 21. Proteus, abode of, 126. Sacred grove of, 268. Provisions for Nile voyage, 390. Psammetichus, I., 51. Deserters A*om, 541. Ptah, 90. Temple of, at Memphis, 268. Ptah-hotep, tomb of, 276. Ptolemies, the dynasty of, 53, Public works in Egypt, 36. Pyramid, derivation of the word, 241. Pyramids, the, 236. Drive to, 237. History and object of pyramidal buildings in Egypt, 239. Survey of the Pyramid Field, 242. The pyramid platform of Geezeh, 2^2. Topo- graphical plan of the pyramids of Geezeh. 243. The Great Pyramid, 244. Plan of, 248. The Second Pyramid, 254. The Third ^rramid. 255. OUier small pyramids, 257. Tombs, 261. The Causeways, 261. 560 INDEX. mids of Abooee€r, 264. Of Sakk&rah, 265. Of Dashoor, 277. At Hawarah and 111&- hoon, 379. The Pyramid of M^doom, J9$. Pyramids at Abydns, 436. At Thebes, 492. Of £1 Koola, 507. At Dankelah (Merob*), 549. At Nourri, 549. Quails, 27, 22j, 2J9, 277, jj?- Quarries, alabaster, 324, 406. Breccia, J26. Granite. 325, 519. Gypsum, 324. Porphyry, J24. Limestone, 279, 402, 407. 41J, 417. Sandstone, 512, 5^4. Quarry, mode of beginning a, 405. Quarters, division of Cairo into, i6j. Queens, tombs of the, 493. Ra, 91. Radineh, 426. Bahmaneeyeh, 147. Railways, 5. Kain in Egypt, 9. Kameses, site of, 286, 338. Barneses 11., 49. Statues of, 269, 457, 541. III., 49. Temple of, at Thebes, 466. Bameseum, or Memnonium, 457. Sculptures, 458. Ruins in the vicinity, 461. Kamleh, near Alexandria, 142. Ramsees, 149. Raramoon, 4i6. R&s Aboo iZeneemeh, 34?. Ras el-Ech, or el-Aydi, 308. R^ et-Teen, palace of, 14a R&s Mohammed, 291, 335. Rils Sufs£feh, 355. Red Convent, 430. Red Sea, the, 293, 550. Passage of the Israel- ites, 290, 338. Red Sea, the, Egyptian coast of, 290. Redeseeyeh, 512. Reefa, 425. Refah, 329. Religion, old Egyptian, 83. Repbidim, 346. Reptiles, 28. Revenue of Egypt, 36. Rhampsinitus, 49. Rhinocolura, 329. Rigga, 395. Ritual, tbe, or Book of the Dead, 37, 200, 201. Roda, island of, and Nilometer, 232. Roda, Stat., 414. Roman Emperors, list of, 54. Rosetta, 144. to Cairo, 145, Stone, the, 144. Route, Plan of, in Egypt, xiv. Route of the Israelites from Egypt to Mount Sinai, 338. Rowik, 550. Rumeyleh, the, 147. Sabagooba, 536. Sa el-Hagar, 147. Sahrdght, 311. Said Pasha, 64, 296. Sals, 147. Mounds of, 147. Sepulchres of the Suite Kings of Egypt, 148. SaTt/o branch of tbe Nile, 151. Sakayt, J2j. SakkXbah, 26s, 270. I^amidsof, 271. Mummy pits, 271, TomhB»2'jo. Tablet of, 205, 210, ini 8HIRBEEK. Sal£h-ed-deen (Saladin), 6t, 163, 168, 173. Salaheeyeh, 328. Samhood, 438. San, 318. The Stone of, 3x8, 143. Ol|Jte^5a5r found at, in Boolak Museum, 305* Sandgrouse, 26, 337» 439. 549- S^dofeh, 401. Sandstone quarries, 512. At Gerttoee, 53;. At Kalabsheh, 534. Region of, 508. Sani, 549. Sar&bit el-Eh^m, 350. Saracenic Wall at A8soodn,5i9. Sarboot el-Jemel, 350. Scarabcei, 28, 202, 452. Schedia, 146. Schools at Alexandria, 130. At Cairo^ I97> Schwabti, or mummy emblems, 202. Sculpture, old Egyptian, 78. Season for visiting Egypt, xiii. Seasons, the, in li^ypt, 9. Agricultnrali 22. Seb, 91. Seb^yda, 417. Set Isbayda. Sebeels, or public fountains, 194. Sebennytic branch of the Nile, 150. Sebennytus, mounds of, 311. Se^jajeeyeh, 545. Seewah, the, 367. Set Oasis of Ammoo. Sehayl, island of, 521. Seih Baba, 343. Seih Sidreh, 344. Semaloot, 402. Sembellawein stat., 3x6. Semenhood, 311, 317. Semneh, 54s, 548. Senhoor, 383. Senooris, 384. Serapeum, heights o1^ 303 ; stat, 287. ~———— at Alexandria, 127. , or Apis Mausoleum, 272. Serareeyeh, 402. SerlMd, 346. Serra, 544. Servants, in Egypt, 6, 116, 158. Sesostris, 49. Sethi I., 49. Temple o^ at Abydus, 435i S^'^ Shabbas, 3I7> Sbabeka, mounds at, 427. Shagg Moosa, 356. Shtdagheel, 421. Shaloof, 287, 301. Shar^ra, mounds at, 407. Shar6na, 400. Shaym-t-el-Wah, 532. Shendy, 549. Shenboor, 448. Shenoweeyeh, 397. Sherg-el-Kbdyam, 438. Sherg Selin, 42$. Sheshonk I. (Shishok), 50^ 502. Sheykh Aboo Noor, 399. Sheykh el-bcled, or village chie( statue of > 202. Sheykh FodJ, 401. Sheykh Hanfiydik, J03. Sheykh Hassan, 402. Sheykh Shenedeen, mounds at, 427. Sheykh Timay, 413. ^eyUiQOTi,TiLVQiw\ue of; 185. INDEX. 561 6H0BD. Shobd, 425. Shobnk, J95. Shoobra, pidace of, 219. Shooting, 28, 285, jio^ J77, j8i, 511. Shnr, wilderness of, J41. Sbut el-Bagel, 512. Sidi Gaber Stat^ 142, 151. SilaiUB^ quarries at^ 512. Silweh, 512. Sinai, PEvmsuLA of, 334. Inhabitants, 334. Population, J 34. Geographical and Natural features, 33$. Natural history and dimate, 33^. Rains, 338. Route of the Israelites flrom Kgypt to Mount Sinai, 338. Routes fh>m Suez to Jebel Moosa» and the Ckmvent of St Catharine, 340. Sinaitic inscriptions, 344, 346, 359* Sioot, 422. See Asyoot. Sits, mounds at, 399. Sitt Safeeya, moeque of, 184. Sitteh Zeyneb, mosque of, 184. Skelekdn, island of, 150. Sledge, Colossus on a, 41 $. Smyth, Mr. Piazzi, theory of, about Great Py- ramid, 248, 253. Snipe shooting 147, 223, 285, 362. Sont tree, the, 277. See Acanthus. Sontah, 317 Soo^Edee, 407. Sood£n, the, 16. Sooh^. 428. SowiUdn, 292, 55a Speos Artemidos, 413. Sphinx, the, 258. Tablet relating to, 203, 259. Temple of. 261. Sphinxes, Avenues of, 495, 499, 503. Springs, sulphur, 278, 342. , warm, in the Little Oasis, 372. Stabl Antar, 412, ^23* Steamers for Uie Nile. 160, 386. Stelse, or Inscribed tablets, 273 etjMUsim, Strabo, 120 etpiusim. Sdbz, 287. Hotels, 287. British Consulate, 288. Steam-packet companies, 287. History, 288. Quays and Harbours, 288. Suez Canal, 289. Financial and political his- tory of the present Maritime, 296. Suez, gulf of, 288. -— , plain of, 300. Suez to Port Said, by the Canal, 299. Sufif, 397. Sugar factories, 383* 400, 406, 414, 438. ■ plantation, 407. ukkoot, district of, 548. Sulphur springs, 278, 342. Syene. 517. See Assooan. Tabbaneh, 422 Tabenna, isle oC 439. Table, chronolc^ical, of Egyptian dynasties and kings, 45-05. Table of Abydus, 435. Of Sakkdrah, 205, 270. T&fah, S33' Taha, 405. Tahaneh, 395* Tabaraka (Tirhtlkah), 50. Tahtah, 427. Talkah stat., 313, 317* Tani8,3i8. Tanoof, mounds of, 419. Taoaeh moond, 399* TOMBS. Tantahjunct. stat, 153. Tain, 153. Taramseh, 445. Tareeh, 150. Teeneh,328. Tehneh, 404. Tel Basta, 284. Tel el-Amama, grottoes of, 418. Tel el-Baroot stat., 152. Tel el-Kebeer stat, 286. Tel el-Odimeh mounds, 150. Tel el-Tahoodeh, the Mound of the Jew, 221, 282. Tel en-Nassara, mounds at 398. Tel et-Teen, mounds at, 398. Tel et-Tmel, 314. Tel Defenneh, 328. Tel Phakoos, 316. Telegraphs, 6. Temperature,' 8. Temples, general description of old Egyptian, Teneydeh, 372. I Tennes, island of, 321. 1 Tentyrites, the, their power over the crocodile, I 444> * Tertoeh, 150. Theatres, &c., at Alexandria, 139. At C^ro, 207. Thebes, 45a Arrival at Luxor, and general information, 451. Mode of seehig, 452. History and topography of, 453. Decline and fall, 455. Temple of Koomeh, 455. The Kameseum or Memnonium, 457. Other ruins, 461. The Colossi ; the Vocal Menmon, 462. lemples of Medeenet Hdboo and other ruins, 464. Great Temple and Palace of Rameses lU., 466. Sculptures, 468. Small Ptolemaic temple, 472. Lake, 472. I^tayr el- Medeeneh, 473. Davr el-Bahr^, 474. Tombs of the Kings, 476. Western VaUey, 483. Eastern VaUey, 476. Tombs of Priests and private individuals, 484. Tombs of the Assase6f, 484. Tombs of Sheykh Abd-el- Eoomeh, 486. Tombs of Koomet Mnrniee, 491. Tombs of the Queens, 493. Luxor, 493. Kamak, 495. The Great Temple, 496. Thebes (Luxor) to Assoofin, the First Cataract, and Philffi, 505. Thinis,433. 5fee Abydus. Thomu, 432. Thoth, 91. Thothmes IIL, 48. Temple of, at Kamak, 465. Tih, tomb of, 274. TUnsah lake, 286, 304. Tofhees, 506. T6ma, mounds of, 379. Tomb of Alexander, 130. Of Burckhardt 193. Tombs, Egyptian of Old Empire, description o^ 76, 262, 274. "Tombs of the Khallfs*' (El-Kaitbey), 19a " Uf the Memlooks," 193. At the Pyramids, 261. At Sakkarah, 273. Tomb of Tih, 274. Of Ptahhotep, 276. Of Sheykh Haniydik, 303. Of Neby Saleh, 358. Tombs at Benl Hassan, 407. At Asyoot 422. Tombs of the Kings at Thebes, 476:— Sethi L, 477. Rameses III., or Bruce's, 48a Rameses vl., 482. Meneptah, 4^81. Bas&sMisk VfL^ 562 INDEX. TOMBS. Ptoh-se-ptob, 483. Sethi I., or Osirei II. 48i. Amanopn III., 48;. Tombs of the Priests and private individuals at Thebes, 484. Of the AssaseSf, 484. Of Sheykh Abd-el-Koomeh, 486. Of the Queens. 49J. Tomeeah, J84. Tookh Stat, 15$. Tooloonide dynasty, 60. Tooloon, 60. Mosque of, 174. Toona island, 321. Toona el-Gebel, 417. Toora mounds, 278, 394. Quarries, 279. Toossoom, heights of, joj. Tor port, 291 ; town, 357. Tosk, 540. Toweel, Assallm, 329. Tri^an, 53. Amnis Trs^anus, 170, 294. Travelling, modes of, 5. Trilingual stones, 143, 144, 205. Troici lapldis mons, 279. Tuot, 506. Turks, the, jj. Turquoise-mines, 344. Tzitze, ruins of, 532. Turn, 92. Uhooozah, 549. Um-Gummal, 328. Umm Shomer, 357. Valley of the Queens, 493. Valley, Eastern, 476 ; Western, at Thebes, 483. Vegetation in Egypt, 21. Virgin's tree, the, 221. Vocabulary, English and Arabic, 92-112. Vocal Memnon, the, 462. Vyse, Colonel Howard, 246, 247, 250, 252, 253, 254, 256, 265, 271, 277. WXdt Aboo Seileh, 3^9. Aleyit, 345, 346. — Amftrah, 341. — Bark, 351. Bernth, 351. — — Booa, 421. Bubba, 350. — — Canal, the, 292. ed-Dayr, 350. 556, 402. — — ed-Dehfleb, 341. cl-Areesh, 329. el-Iie)a, 356. cn-Niikkaree, 291. es-Sarareeyeh, 402. esh-Sh^kb, 348. — ^ Ethal, 342. et-Toomildt, 286. Feir&n, 345. — — Foakhe^r, 326. — — Geen, 506. Oenaiyeb, 344. — — Greudelee, 334. Ghomeir, 395. — Ghunmdel, 342. ZX7BB0. W^y Halazdnee, 334. Halfiih, 544, 547. Hamr, 350. igne, 344- Jaffra, 334« ivhameeleh, 351. I^ibweh, 351. .Mukatteb, 344* Inscripticms at, 344, Nasb, 350. Natrdon, 360. Xisreen, 345. , Nogrus, 327. Nngb Buderab, 344. i^ahabeh, 357. itai£n, 369. Saal, 259. Siibo6aii, 538. Sodur, 341. Shebeika, 343. ShelUl, 343. Sigilleeyeh, 347. *»olif, 348. Suwig, 350. r^ah. 533. Taiyibeh. 34J. Um T^kkeh, 348. Usei^ 342. WanUn, 341. Weteer, 359. Wudy llalfah to luiartoom, and thence to Sowi- kin on the Bed Sea, 543. Wah, or Oasis, derivation of word, 37a Wahed-Dakhleh,37i. Wah el-Behnesa, the Little Oasis, 37a Wah el-Khargeh, the Great Oa^, 373. Wah Koorkoo. 532. Wall, Saracenic, at A8So6an, 519. Wasta Junct. stat, 377, 397. Weesh, 311. Weights and measures in Egypt, 4. Welad Noayr, 407. Wells of Moses, 289. Of El-Egbayta, 325. Of Hammam&t, 326. Werdin, 150. White Convent, or Monastery, the^ 428. Wild fowl, 27, 305, 310, 3x7. 321, 377. 381, 395. 197. 406, 5". Wilkinson, Sir J. G., v, 247 etpattim. Wood, fossil, 224, 264, 55a Wolves, 25, 381. Wooden cramps In masonry, old, 474. Wrestling, ancient, 41a Zaoazio, Junct stat, 145, 285. Zakook at the Natron Uirae, 360. Zaytoon, 397. Zifteh stat, 3x1. " Zoan, field o^" 318. Zodiac of Denderah, 44a At the Bameeemn, 461. Esneh, 507. Zowyeh, 396. Zowyet el-Ghi[iaI, 147. Zowyet el-Myiteen, 407. Zubbo, ruins near, in the Little Oasifl^ 37a . HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 1883-84. CONTENTS. FOREIGN AGENTS :-w.*E.MooaAOKiN pp. 2-s RAILWAY AND STEAMBOAT COMPANIES : pa« DUBLIN AND OLASOOW BTBAM PACKET COMPANY A GSNEBAL 8TEAH NAVIVATION OOMPANT 8 GLASGOW AVD TBI HIGHLANDS— BOTAL BOUTB 7 GLASGOW AND SOUTH^WSSTIBN BAILWAT 4 GBKAT lABXSBH BAILWAT ff LONDON AND SOUTH-WESTEBN BAILWAT fl HOTELS AM) MIB0ELLAHE0U8 ADYEETISEMENTS. AIX-LB8-BAIN8 . AIX LA CHAPBLLB AMIENS ANTWEBP . ABCO . ABNHEM . ATHENS . AVIGNON . AYBANCHES BADEN-BADEN . BAGNBBES DS BIQOBRB BAON^RBS DE LUCHON BAYENO . BELFAST . BBBLIN BIARRITZ . BOLOGNA . BONN . BORDEAUX BOULOGNE-SUR-MEB BOUBBOULE-LE&-BAIN8 BREMEN BRUSSELS . CAEN . CAIRO . CALLANDER CANNES OHARTRES . CHESTER . CHRI8TIANIA OOBLENTZ . COLOGNE . COPENHAGEN CORFU OOWES OREUZNACH DAYOS-PLATZ DIEPPE DUON . DINARD DOVER DRESDEN KNGELBERG FRANKFORT FBEIBUBO IN BADEN rAOB .7,8 ,7,8 . 8 . 8.9 9 . 9 IB, 22, . 10 . 10 10,4ft 10,11 . 11 11.12 11. 12 . 12 12,13 . U . IS . 13 . 13 . 14 . 14 . 14 14, U . 18 18,17 . 18 18,19 . 19 . 19 . 19 . 20 20.21 . 20 . 20 . 90 . 22 . S2 . 22 29,23 . 28 . 22 28,24 24.20 .. 20 . 96 PAOB GENEVA 25,28.27 GENOA . 28 GLASGOW . . 28 GMUNDEN . . 98 GOTHA . 26 GRENOBLE 28,29 HAMBURG . • HARROGATE . 29 HAVRE . 29 HEIDELBERG . . SO HOMBURG . 80.31 HTERES . 81.82 ILFRAGOMBE . . S2 INNSBRUCK . 32 INTERLAKEN . 82.38.84 KARLSRUHE . 88 KILLARNET . 84 EIS81NGEN . »6.86 LAUSANNE . . 38 LE MANS . . 8« LlkGB . . . . . 86 LOCARNO . . 88 LOOH LOMOND . . 88 LONDON . 88-41,79 LUCERNE . . 42 LYNTON . . 48 LYONS . 42 MADEIRA . . 43 MADRID . . 43 MARIENBAD . 44 MARTIGNY . . 44 MAYENCB . . 44 MENTONI . 44.46 METZ . . . . . 46 MILAN. 46,46 MULHOUSB . 46 MUNICH . 46,47 NANTES . . 47 NAPLES . . 49 NERVI . 98 NEUOHATSL . 48 NICE . . . , . 48 NUREMBBBO . 49 08TEND . ■ . 49 OXFORD * . 49,60 PARIS . PAU . PF .ANCE P A . . LYMOUTH (PRAGUE PIRMONT RAGATZ REIMS. RIGI . ROME . ROTTERDAM ROUEN ROYAT-LES-BAINS SALISBURY SALZBUBG . SAN REMO . SCHAFFHAUSXN SOHWALBACH SEVILLE . SMYRNA STUTTGART SPA . ar. PETERSBURG STOCKHOLM THUN . TOULOUSE TOURS. TBIBERO TUNIS. TURIN . VALENCIA YARESE VENICE VERONA YEVEY VICHY VIENNA VILLENEUVE WnSBADEN WILDBAD . WURZBUBG SARAGOZA . ZURICH PA0X . 60-69,66 . 68 . 64 . 66 . 60 66.66 . 66 . 66 . 66 . 67 67,68 . 68 . 68 . 68 . 68 . 69 . 69 . 66 t8. 69. 60 . 60 . 60 . 69 60.62 . 62 . 81 . 63 62,68 . 68 . 64 . 64 . 84 . 66 . 66 . 66 . 66 . 68 . . 87 . 68 . 87 . 68 . 6» . C8 . 68 . 69 / 2 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, MESSRS,, J, Jt.B. MfCJlACREN, 88, QUEEN STREET, GANNON STREET, E.G., ▲0ENT8, BT APPOINnOBNT, TO TBS BOTAIi AOAPIOr^, VXTIOVAL aiLUSBT, AHD GOTEBNMEST DEPABTMSBT OF BOXENCE AND ART. OSVESAL AHD FOBSIGV AGEJTTSi WINE MERCHANTS, 4$:ent8 for Bonvier's Nenchatel Champapie, XVD FOB THE BEOEFTION AHD SHTPMElirr OF WOBEB OF ABT, BAGGAOB, &0., rm,OM AND TO a:l:l tamtb or thb wom,». AybAI themselves of this opportanity to retnm their sincere thanks to the Nobility end Gentry for the patronage hitherto conferred on them, and hope to be honour^ with a con- tinuance of their favonrt. Their charges are framed with a doe regard to economy, aad the same care and attention will be bestowed aa heretofore upon all paclcages passing thn>ii|^ their hands. : DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES, Where Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept daring the Owner's absence, at most moderate rates of rent. Fkirties fkvoartng J. and R. M°C. with their Consignments are requested to be particular In having the Bills of Lading sent lo them dibxct by Post, and also to forward their JEeys with the Packages, as, although the contents may be free of Duty, all Packages are stlU BXAMiNBD by the Customs Immediately on arrival. Packi^es tent 1^ Steamers or otherwise to Southampton and Liverpool also attended to ; but all Letters of Advice and Bills of Lidteg to be addressed to 88, Qmtva Stbxst, as above. AGPNTS IN ENGLAND OF MR, J. M. FARINA, GbOBN^BER DEM JULICH'8 PLATK, COLOGNE, FOB hh CELEBRATED EAU DE COLOGNE. MESSRS. J. AND R. MCCRACKEN'S PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS. ALGIERS Mr. P. DsflSBiGKB, A LUX ANURIA ..... Mr. A. Mowfbrkato. ALICAXTE Mr. P. B. Dahlamdek. ANOONA Mmsrs. Mooas, Mobbllkt, At Oo« ANTWERP Messrs. F. MoNHxni & Co. BAD EMS Mr. H. W. Thbl. BASLE Mr. Chs. db J. Prribwbbv. Mr. J. J. Fbbt. BERLIN Mr. Liov M. Cohr, Oomm>*. Expfiditeur. BERNE Messrs. A. Baubb A Co. BEYROUT Messrs. Hbnrt Hbald ft Co. BOLOGNA Messrs. Bbnoli, Buooio, & Co. BOMBAY Messrs. Kino, KiKo, & Ca BORDEAUX Messrs. Albrbcht & Fiua. BOULOGNE 8. M. . . . Messrs. Mobt & Oo. BRUSSELS Messrs. Vbbstrabtbn Db Mbubs ft FUB. CALAIS Messrs. L. J. Vooub & Oo. CALCUTTA Messrs. Kmo, Hamiltoh ft Oo. CAIRO 4. ......;... . Mr. A. MoKFBSBATa CANNES Meesrs. J. Taylob ft Rrni>BrT.' ^ CARLSBAD Mr. Thomas Wolf, Glass Manafaotnivr. CARRARA Sig. F. BTRTAiiff, Sculptor. CHRISTIANIA .... Mr. H. Hbptmahw. OOLOaNE Mr. J. M. Farina, gegeniib«r dem JtOich's Plats. . OONSTAJfTmOPLE Mr. Alfbed C. Lauohton. V \ 1898i MUIQRAr^ 'HAMt^BOOK" ADYeBlTIIIBS. 3 XoGRAOmPB LIST OV COBBlBFO]niIVTft-«NiMMia«. OOPENHAGEN y^.MaikLKXboniiUaa.} XX)RFU Mr. J. W. Tatlob. DJl^MBlf. p. ...... JTT^g^^aQj,!. of the*|&ral Po»fll>1n JianBfcffl>oiy D»pfc flft«fr8;lfitsiiar&Co. ''fli|.LuiotSjuriL«R. MeMit. Bun*. Vnoi I Sk Co, SIflL Tito Gaqlxaxdi, Dealer in Antiquities. Messrs. FLOBBNCE { Mawtat* Hookkb, k Go. ^r. £. Oooi^baii, Printseller. Mr. T. I ' BiAMORnn, Mtesle' Wenrker.' SitHan, t. ' Bazbaitti h Fio., FRANKFORT o.'M. Messrs. Bnro. Jim., & Co. Mr. G. Ksbbb. ' ftKNBVA»**W*.rt.A lI|lv..I|BW«*.*PRN..t. ....... MesBTS.AuBicMAaBBAB ft Oq. Messrs. Maqqat, Hookbb, ft Go. LlTCERNB Messrs. F. KmOrb ft Fils. MADRAS. « Messrs. BcniT ft Co. MALAGA.,.,...... Mr« Gbob« HoaMssoN. {Messrs. Josb. Dabmabib ft Sobs, 46, Strada Levante, Mosaic Workers. Mr. FoRVxnrAitr Tbsia,93, Strada Ste Lnda. Messrs. Tubnbull Jnn. ft Sombbvillb.' MftRIENBAD Mr. J. T. Adlbb, Glass MannfRctorer. MARSEILLES Messrs. E. Gaillol and H. SAiBTPnEBBB. , MENTONE Mr. Palmabo. Mr. Jban Orbbgo Fils. ' MESSINA Mesdra. G4ILLBB, Walbbb, ft Go. MILAN ........ .... Messrs. Ulbtch ft Co. Messrs. G. Bono ft Go. . MUNICH. Messrs. Wimxbb k Co., Printsellers, Brienner SCrassa. NAiTirq (Messrs. W. J. Tuaanet ft Oa. Mr. O. Boala, Wine Merchant. niLTiasa ..^ Messrs. G.QiTBWA ft Go. Messrs. Cb^ulu ft Go. (Buwt^TT, "{ M*""*' ^ouviBB FrIbbs, Wln^ ;MeTchant8. NEW YORK *.*.'.'.*'.'. Messrs. Baldwin Bboa. ft Go. NICK... ..»«.»»...-. Madame V^* Adolhib Laobokb, Mbja ftO». - NUREMBERG .;.... Mr. A. Piokbkt, Dealer In'Antlfl^MleB. 06TEND Messrs. R. St. Akoub. ft Sob. .. PALERMO Messrs. Inqrax , Wbttabbb. ft' 06. PARIS Mr. L. Ghbbub, Paokar, Roe Ckoiz des Petlts Champa, No. 34. PAU Mr. MnaoBAVB Clat. pja^ (Messrs. Hdoubt ft Vab Libt» Sciilptors in Alabaster and Marble. ( Mr. G. Andrboni, Scnlptor in Alabaster. PRAGUE ; . Mr. W. Hotvann, Glass Mannfactnrer, Blanem Stem. {Messrs. Plowdbn ft Co. Messrs. A. Macbbab ft Co. Messrs. Maqvat. Hookbb, ft Go. Massn. Spada ft Flajiibi. Mr. A. TOMBIBI. ROTTERDAM Messra. Pbkstob ft Co. SAN REMO Messrs. Fbatblli Asquasciati. . ST. PETERSBURG . Messrs. Thomson, Bobab, ft Co. Mr. a Eruokb. STCXIK HOLM MessiB. Oussob ft WJaoBTf" THOU NE Mr. Jean KEHBLi-SfkBORi. TRIESTE Messrs. FUj. CnasA. TURIN Messrs. RooHAS. Ptoe ft Flls. xnmrwrtv f ^'- ^ BovABDi, Ponto alie BaUotte. YKNiiyB ^Mes8rs.S.ft A.BLUMBBTHAI.&00. Mr. Carlo PoNIX VEVEY Mr. JuLBS GiTAZ Fils. ( Mr. H. UlXBxm, Glass MattBflafltarer, It RSmthner StiBsse. VIENNA \ Messrs. J. ft L. LoBBnrBB. Gta« Mannftctorera. 18, KirnthBar ( Strasse. Mr. Pbtbb COMPbOiBB. ZURICH Mr.OBBuHaav, I I ^ MURlUrS HANXmOOK ADYBKTISKR Utj, I GLASGOW AND SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY. DIRECT ROXTTB BKTWBEN SCOTLA ND & EN GLAND. THBOUQH TRiJKS AEE RUN BSTWEXN GLASGOW (St Enoch) and LONDON (St. Panom), Vi& the GLASOOW h SOOTH-WESTEEN sml MIDLAim RAILWAYS, GlTing a Direct and Bxpedltions Seirlee between GLASGOW, GREENOCK, PAISLEY, ATE, ASDSOSaAV, mKASVOGi; DTTXmES, fto., ASD LIVERPOOL, MAECHESTER, BRADFORD* LEEDS, SHEFFIEL]), BRISTOL, BATE, BIRMIKGHAIC, LOEDOE, fto. PULLMAN DRAWING-ROOM AND SLEEPING CARS Are run by the Morning and Evening Express TralnB beiwem GLASGOW and LONDOV. FIRTH OF CLYDE and WEST HIGHLANDS, via GREENOCK. EXPRESS and FAi^ TRAINS are nin at oonTenlent boors between GH^A.SGO\V He G-HEEIVOCK (St. Snooh Station) (ly), and t^ the Morning and Evening Stress Trains betwteo GREEKOOK (Princes Pier) and London (St. Pancras). RETURN TICKETS it9«edto COAST TOWNS are available 'or RETURN AT AST TIME. Passengers are landed at Prinom Pier Station, from whence there is a Cevered Way to A> Pier where the Steamers call ; and Passengers' Luggage is conveyed fbeb or chaWI between the Station and the Steamers. ABBAN AND A7RSHIBE COAST. An Express and Fast. Train Service is given betwesn GLASGOW (St. Enoch), PAISLI7» and IROON, PRESTWICiC, AYR, ARDRO0SAN, FAIRLIIfi* &o. From ARDROSSAN the Splendid Saloon Steamer *< BRODICK CASTTiE ** sails dcOyto and from the ISLAND OF ARRAN, in connection with the Express l^ain Service. Faot Trains provided with Through C!arriagsii mn between ATR, ka., and GLASGOW, (St. Enoch), and EDINRURQH (Wftverley). Ibr Particular t at to Trains and Steamen tee Oempanif*t nine TaMet. Msy, 1883. Yf . 3 . ^ JiXSCVTB^fikHT^ GeMnl Msnafsr. 1888. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADTEBTISBRl 5 LONDON AND SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY, LONDON STATION, W^ATERLOO BRIDGE. The Cheap and Piotureaqiie Bontet to Faria*- Havre, Bouen, Honfleur, Trouville, and Caen, via Southampton and Havre, eTery Mmiday, Wednesday, and Friday. The last Train frcm London at 9 p.in. goes into Southunpton Dooldk alongside the Steamen Fabeb thronghont (London to Paris ;, Single Journey, First Glass, 33f«.*; Second Glass, 248. Double Journey (available for One Month, but may be ex- tended for an extra payment), First Glass, 55«. ; Second Glass, 39«. Jersey, Q-uemsey, Granville, and St. IKEalo. Daily Mail Service to Ohaaticd Isles, vid Southampton (the fitvonrite route), eveir Week-day. The last Train i^m Ivisions on Board are supplied from the Gompany 's own Hotel at Harwich, and are unequalldd in quality. Luggage can be. registered through to all prindpal Towns on the Gontinent from Liverpool Street Station. Through Tickets are issued at — 44, Begent Street ; 48, Lime Street ; and Blossom's Inn, Lawrence Lane, Glieapside, E.G. ; and the Continental Booking Office, Liverpool St. Station, London, E.G. New direct Bool±ig between tne North of England and the Contfaient, ▼i& Doncaster, March, and Harwich. The Gontinental Boat Express leaves Doncaster at 4.48 p.m. every week-day. Through Tickets can be obtained at the Great Northern stations at Bradford, Halifax, Leeds, and at Doncaster, Spalding, Sleaford, Lincoln, and Oainsboro*. For further particulars, Time Books, &c., apply to Mr. W. Brigos, Great Northern Station, Doncaster, or to tS2k& Osci> tinental Traffic Manager, Liverpool Street Btatioii, IjOXkidiiQii^'Sk,^. 6 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADYEirnSER. Mtj, DUBLIN AND QLA8GOV\^ STEAM PACKET COMPANY. The Gomnuiy*g First CLms Saloon Paddle Steatn«rs, Duke of Ai^gyll, Duke of IieinBter, Iiord ClTde, Uord Gongh, OR OTHKR STEAMERS, An intended to Sail m per Monthly Salltng bills, nnleos preraited by any nnftoesera occurfaooe^ ftom OTJBL.I1V TO GML.A.S»OAV Every MONDAY, WEDNESDAY and FRIDAY, and every alternate TUESDAY, THURSDAY and SATURDAY. From EveiT MONDAY, WEDNESDAY and FRIDAY, and eveiy alternate TUESDAY, THURSDAY and SATURDAY, calling at Greenook both ways, e^coept Saturday Boat fh>m Dublin, which proceeds direct to Glasgow. Return Ticket to Sdtnbm^ £ t. d. (fi Months) ...... I 10 Slngla TiokBt to BiinboiBli (Srd Glass and Deck) ... 086 Return Ticket to ifidinburgh (2 Mouths) (Srd Class and Deck) 14 £ i. d. Cabin Fare, (includhig Steward's Fees) 16 Return Tickets (6 Mouths) . .12 6 Steerage 6 Ketum Tickets (e Months) . . 10 Single Ticket to Edinbuiigh .10 Passengers can travel between Greenock and Edinburgh Direct, without change of carriage, by either Caledonian or North British Railway, according to the Ticket tbey hold. The Caledonian Railway Stations are Cathcart Street, Greenock; and Prince's Street, Edinburgh. North British Company*»— Lyndoch Street, Greenock; and Haynuu*ket aod Waverly Stations. Edinbtugh. §^ Passengers are also Booked Through between Dnblin and the principal Bailwiy Stations in Scotland. Ad-KlTTft.— HkifBT Lamomt, 99, Hope Street, Glasgow. Javu Littlb ft Go., BieiBe BuHnnfQB, Grseno<^ I^VWmTK of VI€B8.— Booking Office for Passengers— 1 Eden Quay; where Bvtbt can be secured up to 2 o'clock, p.m., on day of Sailing. CHUEF OVFICB AVI» STOR]&S.t-7l, NORTH WALL. FurtherparUculars. Monthly Bllls.&conapplicatlonto {^ ^^^N^&^i^SlSXiig^' GENERAL 8TEAM NAVIGATION COM PANY! . . * ' — - > ■ Fron and to Jtrongai^e.,and 6t JOUherine't Wharfs near the Tower. LONDON AND BOULOGNE.'-^'^ dqpMtaz«%«M JDaliv PaiMX*. FABBS-Londaa toBaDh«M> I0«7or7a.; Return 1&. M. or 11a. "«- "t "^ LONDON TO PARt8 dlxaot ftmn Xrfmd(m,^vla BotQogne.— FABES-Aoroxa (arkiMihfcr Three Days). Saloon, 1st Olaa Bail, 11. 6s. Sd. ; Saloon, fnd Glae Bafi, U. 1*. ; Tan GaUn, IM <1«>BliI. 18>. : Sri GUh Bail. Ifit. Betnm (aTaflal>le tac Foorteen OajB). 2Z. ••. Sd.; U. 17«. ; U. 18a. : 11. 4*. LONDON AND HAVRE.— Bv«7 T&ttndav. Trom H avr e ■< er y ftmday. FABlBB-Ohicr CI•Ul^ 18a s FU* Oatiln. 9»{ itotara Tiflkeli, flO*. 14. and 14a. LONDON AND 08TEND.— WedoaidaT and Snnday.-Jrroni Ontend— TuMday and FkUaj- , FABB (Bte«rardn." "Severn," Princess ^leseondra," or other ..Steamers §n intended to sail (unless prevented by drcnmstaaces) from Glasgow, calling at Greenock. To Bristol vi& Belfast every Monday and Thursday at 2 p.m. To Swansea every Friday „ 2 p.m. To Gaidiif every Friday „ 2 p jn. Bristol to Glasgow vid Belfast every Monday and Thursday. Swansea to Glasgow „ „ „ Wednesday. Cardiff to Glaaipow „ Swansea and Belfast every Monday. Ihess Steamers have very saperior aooommodatian for paSMOferB, and aiford » CftTOTumUe oppartnnity for makbig «xoandoii8 finm Wert of KngUnd to IrsLand and Scotland. Tares firom Glasffow ^-Cabin, 208. Steerage, ISm, 6d. Soldien and Sailom. lOs. Fares team fielikst:— „ 178. Sd. „ . lOs. JELetums :— Cabin and Steerage, Fare and Hall^ available for Two Months. Vor rates of fVtl^t and ftuHher paztioaUn, applj to WILLIAM SLOAN ft Co., 140, Hope Street, Glasgow. A I X -JLES j^JBA^I N S. GRATO HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. Proprietor^ J. BERNASGON. FIBST-OLASS Honse, admirably situated near the Casinos, the Baths, and the English Church. Thia Hdtel is strongly recommended to Travellerfl for the comfort of its arrangements. The largest and most beautifol Garden in the toYin. Large and small Apartments, and a Ohtiet in the Gkurden, for Families who may pre£ar being out of the H^ytel. Two vast Villas, bnilt in the gardeu in 1882, will give 140 additional Booms and Saloons. Excellent Table d'H6te. Open all the Year. LAWN TENNIS. Omnibus to meet every Train. " AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. _ GSAHD ]C0K4RQTnS EOTSL. Close by the lUllway^anons and the Baths. HXfBXEH'B HOTSL. Opposite the Fountain ** EUaa.** XAISSBBAD HOTSL (bnilt In 1866). The prijMipal Spring rises in the Hotel itself. XSIBAD HOTEL. (Renovated In 1879.) Mr. Q. F. DBBOEL Is th* Proprietor ^thsMfowbotels of Boropean rqimtBtlon. Th« oonblnation la one band of Four BstabUrtuDnits of snch magnltnde, enables Mr. Dremel to aflbrd suitable aooommndatkm toalloomen; toTMtms towbom money Is no ol^eot, as veil as to parties destioaa oC U.'(V&%*N*>'nsiftMt«^» rateer«xpaMk " amOaat UateK" ««s Xunj. ■ 8 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, May, AIX- LES- BA INS- HOTEL VENAT AND BRISTOL. OPEN AliL THE YSAB BOUND. EUROPEAN BEPUTATION. 8 P LEND ID HOT E L, 200 Booms and Sitting Booms, with Lift and all desirable Comforts. English Chapel, Conveyanoe by Omnibns to the Baths and Casinos. OPEN the 1st of March, 1884. G. KOSSIGNOLI, Proprietor and Managef- I AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. H OYER'S IMPERIAL CROWN HOTEIL, near the KnrhAos and Batli-bovses, witti large Garden. Very comfortable Apart- ments. Single Rooms. Excellent Cooking, and attentive attendance. Very Moderate Charges, and adTantageons arrangements for Winter. . OTTO HOYER. ALAS8IO (Riviera d' Ponente, Italy.) Mag^niflcent vdnter resort Finest sliore for /v Sea-bathing. HOTEL SUISSE ALASSIO. In a beantlfol and dominating podtkmiMMr the Englkh Cborch and the Bailroau fltatiau. Mwt ooiuTurtahle iiutaUaUoiu. Moderate prioei. K. STlCKELBERaEB, Proprietor. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. ITOYER'S UNION HOTEL. FlrsVCto ^1^ Hotel, immediately opposite the RheniBb Railway Station, and admirably sitnatedln the beat part of the city. Well-known ftff its cleanliness, comfortable aparuneDts, excellent cooking, and Moderate Charges. CHARLES HOYKK. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. MT7BRAT*S HANDBOOK NORTH GERMANY AND THE RHINE. Post 8V0. 10«. John Mubbay, Albemarle Street. tj ^ AMIENS. lJ"OTBL DE L'UNIVBBS.— First-OlasB Hotel, facing St Denifl ^^^ Square, near the Railway Station, lluee minutsir walk to the pathearaL Dnwiag and Bath Booms. Bngliah Literpreter. Omnibus of the Hotel at every Train. AMIENS. HOTEL DB PRANCE, D'ANGLETERRE, and DB L'BUBOPB. BRULE, ProiMietor.^Fir8t-Clas8 Hotel, one of the oldest on the Continent. Sttntted in the centre and the finest part of the town. Having recently been newly famished, it oifers great comfort. Families and Single Gtontl^nen aocommodated with oonrenient Suites w Apartments and Single Boons. OMNIBUS AT STATION. ENGLISH SEOKKN. ANTWERP. HOTEL ST. ANTGINE. PLACE VBRTE, Opposite the Cathedral. THIS excellent FIBST-OLASS HOTBL, whvdi enjora the well- merited fovour of Families AQd TomHsts, hoA -been i»-purchased 1^ Its old and well- known Proprietor, Mr. SCHMITT SPAENHi;)V£;N, who, with 1^ Faxtq^r, will do eveiy- thing id their j^wer to render the visit of all perBohs who may holkOar them with tbelr patronage as agreeable and comfortable as possible. BATHS IN THE HOTEL. 1883. MtrKRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 9 ANTWERP. HdTEL on GRiHD LABODREUR. THIS Hotel oocapies the first rank in Antwerp, and its poflition is moat delightful. The testimonials given by Families is the best aasuranoe of its ■ COMFORT AND MODERATE CHARGES. ARGACHON. WINTER SEASON. English Pension at 8f. per day. SOUTH ASPECT R MS. > ■ Omnibus at the Station for all Trains. ARCO. Near Biva Qimkflidhe, €^tih Tyrol, Austria. HOTEL OLIVO AND PENSION BELLEVUE (Winter station). Situated in the oeatro oCtlk&Pfamenades* with Southern aspect. AUGUST BRAOHER, Propriet or, ARNHEM, HOLLAND. A. AOENA* Proprietor. npHB above Fintolan Hdtel, Migktfally tltnated on the Rhine, contains -* Sizty Larg* aad Snutll AiNUtments and Boomi. CSBrriftges. ' Telephones. Good I Attendance and everv Comfort. MonsRAn CHABQsa. H|» been ^xivVxAi 1^/b\9qi^\c) \ the preient Owner. HfgfaJly recommended to l&ngUdi Toliumb ui^ Y«E(i^^fi%. \ 10 MURRArS HANDBOOK ADYKRTISEfi. Miy, e ATHENS. THE ]*«ri^EItA^.A., 27| Hermes Street. T/'ISITORS to Athens will find axi Apartment of Antiqui * Coins and all other objects of Archseological interest, as well ss Modem and Mediisyal Oriental products, Photographs of Athens, &e^ ^ Every Object sold here is Guaranteed, and will be taken back and the money returned if declared not to be genuine by a recognised authority. The prices will be found considerably lower than for similar objects at any other establishment in Athens. O. POIiYOHBONOPOTTLUS & CO. AVIGNON. h6tel n eubope. HIGHLY recommended to English Travellers on their journey to Nice, Italy, ftc Firfft-Class and Moderate Prices. The Proprietor and his Wife having lived in England, are aware of the wants of English Travellers ; and be assures tb«ai that their eomforts shall be studied. Omnibus at all Trains. AVRANCHES. Grand H6tel d'Angrleterre DECOMMBNDS itself by Excellent Ar- '^ rangements, its TablSb and its Gbrnfort. Apartments for Families. English Fapers. Moderate Prices. Omnibus it all the Trains. hOULLEGATB, Proprietor. AVRANCHES. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK FOR FRANCE, FartL NORMANDY, BRIHANY, PYRENEES, ^. Post svo. Is. ed. JOHN MUBBAY, Albemarle Street. iMf^ BADEN-BADEN. HOLLAND HOTEL Ai^ DEPENDANGIE AU BEAU tEBJOUR. OPEN ALL THE V^R ROUND. ' THIS fayonrite First-class Establishment, nith a beautiftil Garden, is •^ situated close to the Ck)nverBation House, nearest to the Frederic fiath (new vapour hvbs) and adjoining the Duchess of Hamilton's Park. It is principally patronised by ^ulldi ftod American Travellers Ibr its Comfort, moderate and fixed charges, excellent codkilig, and choice Wines. Smttridng and Beadiog. Boom* .wKh Piano, and Library. Baths. Prize Medals for Wtnes, Vienna, 1873^, Fhnadelphta, 1876, &c., &c. Pension in the eablt AND LATBS PABT OF THE SciJMir. Booms trcm 2s. and upwards. Oondncted under tbe immediate Superintendence of the Proprietor, A. BOESSLEB. BADEN* BADEN. 1 ■ ^f- -k. r 7 I s : VICTOItIA HOTEL. Srop^etor^ Kr. Y&ASrz OB08H0IZ. THIS is one of tine finest-built and best-famished First- Class Hotels, mt^i^ front Soiith-^easi-^sontli, sitaated in the nef Promenade nearest th^ Kursaal k^S the "famoos Frederic Baths ; it commandB the most charmta^ Vdei^, sad^s veplited to be one of the best Hotels in Geitnany. > Prii^oipaUjir fireqii6uted by English and American Tmrellera. Highly reoottimended' in eivery rsepeot Priees myoderate. Ehagiiah and othet jovitai^B. ' ' ■■\ y MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. AM I E NS. GRAND HOTEL DU RHIN, PLACE ST. DENIS. "PIKST-CLASS HOTEL, highly recommended, near to the Cathedral and Kailway Station. Affords every accommodation. Spacious Apartments and airy Bed Rooms. Private and Public Saloons. Warm Baths. Large Garden. Stabling and Coach Houses. Omnibus to and from each Train. English Interpreter. The house is newly furnished. CH. FICHEUX, Proprietor. BOULOGNE - SUR - MER. GRAND HOTEL CHRI8T0L & BRISTOL L Jb^irst- class Hotel. Best Situation in the Town, Highly recommended for Families and Gentlemen. Carriage in Attendance on Arrival of all Trains and Boats. F. CHRISTOL, Proprietor and Manager. BOURBOULE LES BAINS. GRAHD HOTEL DE L'DHIVEBS. Ojpen from the Ihth of May till the end of October, vyECL-RECOMMENDED HOUSE situated near the Etablissements. The Principal Journals and Bourse quotations every evening at 4 o'clock. ODOT, Proprietor, Successor of DULIEOE, 1883. MDRBArS HAin>BOPE XVVi^jf^SfSi n BADEN- BAOEN. h6tel de la cour de bade. 'Badisclier Hof. (Not to he confounded with the Hdtel de la Ville de Bade, opposite the Railway Station,) AFIKST-KATE and lai^e Establishment near the Promenade and the OoDTersation Hotise, leith extensive OtxdenB, Warm, MtneraL and otbcr Batbs, enjoying A well-ineiited repuktkm £ar its great oooifori and attention. It is patronlRed by the most distinguished Families. Managrer, Mr. Fr. ZIEOLEB. ■*n- T BADEN -feADEN. rnr THIS excellent First-class Hotel, delightfully situated in the centre of a '- fine Park near the English Church, close to the Lawn Tennis grounds, will be found a most agreeable residence. ' Exceptional position, with superb view. Really well-kept, and Moderate Charges. Arrangements made for a longer stay. Well recommended. RIOTTB, Proprietor. BADEN-BADEN. h6tEL STADT BADEN, On the right-hand side and nearest the Station, COlOff ANDINO A delidoos vi0w off the Old GasUe and high rocks. Known for its Clean- liness, eondlieiit Cboking, good Attendance^ and fixed Moderate Chargea. E. B0ES8LEB, Landlord. baqnIres de BIQ0RR€. ' ' ■ I Grand Hdtel Beii^-^S^ouif. . FiBflrr-GuAW, The most comfortable and the best situated. BADEN-BADEN. IVTJBSATS HANDBOOK FOB ' BOBTH^fflOlMAinr. , Post 8vo. lOf. John Mubbat, Albemarle Street. BAQN^RES DE LUCHON. PYR^N^ES. GRAND h6TEL RICHELIEU. {Hotel de S, M, U roi ^ Eollande,) 200 Booms, 10 ^ons. Splendid view. LOTTIS ESTRADB, Proprlotor. BAVENO. GRAND HOTEL BAVENO (Formerly VILLA DURAJl^ZO). PIRST-CLASS Hotel, Newly Constracted, with every *■ Modem Comfort, and enjoying an exceptional position, facing the Borromean Islands. Arrangeinents made for Families. OPEN in APRIL 1883. G. BOJBSI, Propzietpr. . . Latd^ Co-proppieiar o/-tke HoUl Bm)^^^'^^'^^' 12 MtmRArs HAffbdiKm'ADVERmSR. May, BAQNERE8 DE LUCHON. PYRENEES. Hotel BoxinexnaiscMa et de Xjdndres, Opposite the Springs. First-Class Hotel. Beoommended to Families. HTB. VIDAL Fils, Proprietor. BAVENO. GRAND HOTEL BELLE -VUE. T AEGE First-clasB Hotel, surrounded by a splendid ■^ Garden, fietcing the Borromean Isles. English Service. Lift. No Omnibus required, the Garden of the Hotel being oomieoted with the Pier. OPEN ALL THE YEAR, T. PEDRETTI, Proprietor. BELFAST. x xxiuL XMPMxtXAiXa xxOxilSXaM Just Be-'deoorated and Enlarged^ First-Glase, Besi SituaUon. Omnibuses meet all Trains and Steamers. W. J. JURY, Proprietor. BIARRITZ. h6TEL DES PBIjSfCES, ALABGB and beautiful Hotel with a fine view of the Sea^ This Hotel will be found most suitable for Englisli Families and Gentlemen. Excellent cooking. EzoepCional arrangementB can be made for pension. EngUsb jspoken. E. COUZAIN, Proprietor. BERLIN. h6tEL D'ANGHJETilRliE. 8, flOHIirXU-PLAOX, 8. SITUATED OH THS VUIBST AND MOST ELSeAKT PAKT OF THE TOWS. Kmt Io thedeatnl Stetton, Friedric h et r an o, and totiie Bofttl Fktaoem Mumiibm^ m* Tbeatvei. . • SINGLE TraytUen and large Familiea qan be accommodated vith entire Suites of Apart- ments, enmirting of qriendld Saleoni^ afrj Bedrooms, Ikx* an foraiibed and oaipeted in the best English style. First-rate Table d'HOte, Baths, Equipages, Guides. Approved Hydraulic Lifts for Passengers aiid Luggage. Ttmn and CMigmmi't Meuenger u&ux in. Residence of Her British Majesty's Messengen. B. BIB3EIiISTi Proprietor. BERLIN; THE KAISEEHOF. Wilhelmsplatz. Zietenplatz. jyJElE lugeet iMid most commodious First-Class Hotel in Berlin. Situated '^ in an elegant, quiet, and magui&ceiit ^sxi «t&ibfi oity. 1^88* MURBAT'S HANDBOOK ADVSRTIS&iL 18 HOTEL DE RUSSIE. FIBST-QLASS Fatoily Hotel, facing the Crown Prince's Palace, and siiroatod in the finest and most aristocratic part of the city. Can be confidently recommended to English and American Families for its comfort and moderate charges. C. P. KUHRT, Proprietor. BERLIN. 8T. PETERSBURG HOTEL UNTSB DBS LIin)E2r» 31. CLaSE to the Central Station, Friedrich- strasse. Old reputed Arst-claes Hotels EzoeUent Table d U6ce four o'clock. Near to the Imperial Palace, University, Mueeum, Grand Opera, &c. Prop. Julius Hbuptlabs. BORDEAUX. MUILRAY'B HANDBOOK FOB FRANCE. Part I. Poet 8vo. Is. 6d. New Edition. Revised to date. JOHN MUllRAY, Albemarle Street. BOLOGNA. H6tEIj D' EUROPE, 10 VIA INDEPENDENZA 10. Highly recommended to Families and Single Gentlemen for its central situation and its comforts, having been bnilt expressly fat a Hotel, with Bath Boom, Heating Aiq[>aratus, fto. 100 Bedrooms and Salons, Beading Boom, Piano, Smoking Room. Newspapen of all oonntrieB. Full South. Moderate charges. Pension. Omnibus to all traLos. Hie four langnagee are fpoken. E. BAROQQl and Q. QUATTRl, Managers and Proprietors. BONN. " GRAND H6TEL ROYAL. ON the Banks of the Bhine. European repute. 200 Booms and Salons. Sitiifltion without equal, fiacing the Bhine, Seven Momtains and Park. Kear the Landing-place and Bailway Station. Extenrive Ei^^lish Gardens. Beading and Smoking Rooms. LadUes' Salons. Arrangements on the most moderate terms for the Winter Pension. Warm and Cold Baths in the Hotel. THE GOLDEN 'star HOTEL. THIS First-rate and unriTalled Hotel, patronised by the English Royal Family, Nobility, and Gentry, is the nearest Hotel to the Bailway Station, and to the Landing- plaoee of the Ehine Steamers. The Proprietor, Mr. J. SCHMITZ, begs leave to reoommend his Hotel to Tourists. The Apartments are comfortably famished and carpeted in the best style, and the charges are moderate. Arrangements for the Winter may be made, on the most moderate terms. BORDEAUX. h5TEL DES princes ET DE LA PAIX. qUEXJUjUS and DARIO, Proprietors. INHlSllTORS OF THE HOTEL DE PABIS. FirtMatB Hatue, Telegraph and FoU OgLeeB, Money Changers, Foreign NemapapBra, AU loifif^iagM eiiolsmw \ 14 MJJWtkTS EiXPBOOK APVERTTBlK.- BOULOQNE-SUR-MER. FAMHiX HOTEL AND BOARMNO SOUSE, 87 & 89, BUE D£ THIERS. EttalUalud 1S15. Sear tht ForL Very con^ortaiJv. Moderate C/iarga. ^ Proprietor , L. BOUTOIHiB. LA BOURBOULE-LES-BAINS. GRAND H:6TEL P. BELLON. J. DOmraAUD, Proprietor. Firei-elatii BiUMithiasnt. Sitgliih ^oken. Opened from the Firtt of Utf im the end of Oelohtir. SPLENDIDLY SITUATED. BREMEN. ' HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. Firfi~Cla»s Baglish Botei. Enlireli/ RBruivated. Bighly BenommtiM- LUSCHE-BAUE, Proprietor. ri,. .,( i HDTEi, BAUIt AU LAC, ZURICH, njoi j Hojt^t, riE ItuaslE. BERLIN. / 1 B\.ND HOTEL Rooma frcm A fraocs ArtBDECtment for a loug \X Slay Mignflrnt Bn a Room DnvliiB Boom Sm kl ;. Room, and Ofc. Bllurd Koom inii-y HoM mA a L\ft "- - ■■ ■^- ■■ ■""— '- "■- " ■-' Umn bus III itl the Tralnt. d Tb graph limoe BRUSSELS. COMPAGNIE ROYALE DE DENTELLES. LAPS UANuyACTortr. O. SS VEBONIES £T SCEITBB, No. SO, Bue d«a Faroisuens, near the Oathedral. Ibroiffntn on^iMjitad to vvrit th« 0«&tral Faetory. 1883. MDWUT'S EaRDBOOK AOVEfinSBB. 1» BRUSSELS. h6tel mengelle . .^..B. iStBNGBLLB, pROPRiEafoR. ^ ' THIS large and beantifal First-Glass Hotel is fidtaated in the finest and most healthy itairt ttf the IVwn, near ^ the I^meoAdes the most frequtnted, and is supplied wiAi tveiy aiaderB .AcooinonDdatim and. oonilbxt. Table d'Hftte «t.6SSELS. h6tel be suede. FIBST-GLASS HOTEL, in a thoroughly central position near the New Boulevards. EXCELLENT '. TA39LE D'H^TB. - CH9ICE WINES. VAN OUtSfiM, JropriHtop.' 3 ' "^ . CANNES- f ^ WINDSOR HOTEL THIS First-Oltfss Vaniilj' Hotcd is beMitiMly Atoated, not too &r from the Town and tbe Sea* of wlvidi, bowevoc, it enjoys an extensiye view. Baths. Smoking and Billiard 'Boom. Large and sheltered garden. Most Comfortable Apartments and Careful Attendance. ED. SCHMID, Proprietor. CANNES. Situated route du Cannet I7TJLL SOUTH, with every advantage of a sheltered position, away from '- the Sea, and near to St. Paul's EnglLih Church. Oood and careful attendance. AD. VAN QAB.NEB., ^T^^T\fe\.T^^'8^. 16 MUBSAT'S BAMOUOOK.ADTRBTUEH. Vty, GAENi< HOTEL 2®S D'ANGLETERRE, Rue St. Jean, Nog. 77, 79, 8L Sitnated in the Centre of the Town. Bendezvons of the best Society. 100 Elegantly Furnished and Comfortable Bed Booms and Sitting Boomfu BREAKFASTS A LA CARTE. BIKfUEE AT TABLE M^TE^ 4 FIMHCSo SUITES OF APARTMENTI5 FOR FAMILIES. ENGLISH AND SPANISH SPOKEN. L. MANGEL, Proprietor. CAIRO (Egypt). / FRIEDMANN'S HOTEL DU NIL Situated on the Hoosky (Frank Quarter), in the immediate Tioinity at all the onriosxiieB of the Town; . Cheap, Clean, Grood Cookery, ft*©© from Dust. ALL APARTMENTS FAGINft SOUTH ROUND A SPACIOUS GARDEN. BATH booms; LIBRARY, SALOONS. ENGLISH AND FOBEIGN NEWSPAPERS TAKEN IN, Omnibus and Dragoman at eaoh Train. LEAND]&£|.-SGHARFNAGEL, Managing Partner. MDRSAY^ BunMoKib^ktctt^'-. CAlRdl ^OYPt. 0IipMT4I,,H0i:EJ,. THIS FiTBt-OlMS Hotel is situate on the Grand Plaoe of Hie Leabekies Qarden, in &m oantre of the town. Keai the Pact and Tele°7apli Offlcea, and the Qraad Opera. Containe nil the comforlje of the best Buropean HoCali. Large and email Apartmeula ; rocommiaB^ iteclf to tnvall^ fot its good Ouiaine and excellenoe of its service. PENSION FBOU 10 TO 12 SHILLraOB PBB DAY, Morning — Ca/i au laU, Tea, or Choeolale. Egg$, Cold Heat, BulUr, and ConJUaret. lBd'4ay—STidi/ famed Trossacha, and Loch Katrine. The Table d'Hote is amply provided, and for the convenience of Yisiton making excursions, Dinner is at 6.30 p.h. The TuBKiBu, Et ssiAN, Sprat, and other Baths are of the moat modem and improved description. There is a well-ventilated Billiaid and SMOKma Boom. Salmon and Trout Fishing over i. miles of the river Telih adjoining the Establishment BofTS on Loch Yenhaohsb. TeniUB and Croquet Greens. Carriages, Waggonettes, and Dfags can b6 ordered at the Eatabllshment. l- | ' Omnibus ta mid -from every train at Callander Station. For Termi, Prespectmj Ac, address The Manager, CANNES. h6T£L beau site & Hom m itestM BOTH situated at the West End of Cannes, in the midst of a most splendid Gkorden, and acyoiuing Lord Brong^iam's property ; the healthiest part of the Town. 300 Bedrooms and Private Sitting Rooms. Beading^ Smoking and BilUard Booms, with English BiHidrd Tables. Baih Booms. LIFT WLTE SAFETY APPARATUS. LAWN TENNIS GROUND CONSIDERED THE FINEST AND LARGEST IN CANNES. ABBANGBMENTB MAD^ ■ ■-j ■< fc- I QiSXOJ^m GOXraOLTZ, Proprietor. MUREAT'8 HANDBOOK ADVEETISEE. HOTEL DES PINS. pIRST-CLASa Hotel. Highly recomniGnded b? Pliyaicians for it Balabritf and its senltuy BttatLtion. Lift mid Telephone. Ii. OBEUET. Proprietor. CHARTBES. HOTEL GRAND WIONARQUE. QEO. OLIVER, Proprietor, late of the Criterion, LONDON. JJXCKLLBST accommoilBUoa tar FwnHfca »nd QcQilEmcp, apcclilly recuini06L6ed for - Priv»lo Dlnnera. Mode«w Cbargo. UdlclOmBlbus lo meet each Ttmlri. CurtimB immrslonj. Spedilltj of PStca do Chonies, Engliali Bpokeo. CHESTER. THE GROSVENOR HOTEL. FIRST -GLASS, situated i CilbedriL The Itows, r — " A Larga CofTna-Koom aj FunUlH. Tbe Bediuonu 11 ) oentue of the City, close to the Dnwlo^BooiD Kir Uw ooDTeniefue of Lidiea and ig la all Its BioDcLfa. c UM at BUtora K tbs Hotel. Tiriff to be bid od DAVID FQ8TEB. Manager. CHRISTIANIA Offorway). GRAND HOTEL. J, FRITZNEE. Proprietor. rrHIS rirst-ClasB H&tel, delightfnily situated in the best -*- part of the Town, opposite the Public Porks, the House of Parlia- meot, and close to the Hoyal Fuloca, comnianda a chuimlng view of the Chriatiftnia Fjord, and the HUiroundiosiuouiiliiiLfl. Table d'Hfite. Warm and Cold Batbl in the Holel. EogliiUi Newniiapers taken in. OmnibuB at the Bailmtf snd gteam-boBt Stations. ' Uoderate Ohsiitwi.. 20 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. COBLENTZ. GIANT HOTEIi— h6tEL DtT OEANT. THE best Bitnated First-Class Hotels juBt opposite the laliding- the Steam-boftta and VcvtraBs EhrenlireitstelxL Excellent Colsine aH Moderate Charges. Redaction for a long reBidence. PBOFrajBTOBS, EISENMAKN : COLOGNE. HOTEL DISCH. FirBt-GlasB Hotel newly refitted ; near the Gatfaedral and Central Station^ OnmiboBes meet every Train. Large stock of Choice Wines for wholesale. Hydraulic Lift J. PE, CBEISTOPE, Ptoprietor, COLOGNE. h6tel du Db] !Ca. Mxra.— Thia old and exoell«nt Hoi tageolvly sitoAted In the centre of the Oil Oi^edral end the Oeatral Bailway B undergone impoilent improrements thi very-oomforteble. TeUe d'HOte 1 o'docd Done adJoininff the HoteL Beoommeni Ueli Tootists. Terma Moderate. COPENHAGEN. HOTEL KONGEN OP DENMA THIS PirstrClasB Hotel, much frequented hj the 1 clasB of English and American TravellerB, affords drst-rate modation for Fitfuilies and Single Gentlemen. Splendid situatic to the Boyal Palace, oyerlooldng the King's Square. Ezcelleu d*H6te. jPriyate Dinners. B^ attondimce. Beading Boon Bathii lift IBngliBh, TrencAu G^erman, and American Newi All Languages Bp&en. Venr Moderate Charges. The oAy nmna Coffee Mouee mth Meeknurand and ConfecHoneri R, KLtTM, Proprie CORFU. HdTEL ST. GEORGK THIS FIBST-CLASS HOTEL, vetr weU situated on the best the Esplanade, dose to the Royal Palace, is fitted up after the English style, first-ratei aooommodation' for Funiliea atod' Singfe QentVeiSeii. Excellent Pen prices yety tdoderate. A large addition to the Hotel juat now flniihed makes it o moat oon^fortable of theCcmtinent, with splendid Apaxtanenta^ Conversation Saloon Saloon and Librai^, Smoking and Biiliara Rooms, and Bath Room. Magnificent and Horsea, the whole ne^, neat, and elegant. All' Languages spoken. Ladles ' akne win find here the srelAest comfbrc and best attendance. The Hotel is ^ patronage of King George L, the Emperor of Austria, and the Grand Dnke of Meek Madame V^«- S. P. MAZZTJOHY A PILS, Proprletc COWES, Isle of. Wight. DEOYEE'S MARINE HOT] PARADE. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. The Comfort of Vigitors oarefuUy studied. Board oi Low . Temur dnring the Winter Months. 188i?. MURRAY'S PAKDBOQE ADVERTISER. 21 COLOONE ON THE RHINE. JOHAM MARU FAEINA, GEGENUBER DEM JULICff S PLATZ (OppoeMt the Jiyieh's PImo). PUBYETOR TO H.M. QUKIN YIGTOBIA ; TO H. B. H. THE PIUNGE OP WALESr TO H. M. WILLIAM KING OF PRUSSU ; THE BMl^EROR OF BUSSIA THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA; THE KING OF DENMARK, EltX STC^ (W TBM ONLY GENUINE EAU DE GOLOGNBi Which obtained the onl/y Prize Medal awarded to Sou de Cologne at the Paris BmhibUion qflBBI, T^H£ finequency of mistakea, which are soiBetimes aocidental, but for the most -'- part the reenlt of deception practised by interested indivldnala, indnoes me to request the attention of English travellers to the following statement :— The fftvourabto repatatlon which my Baa de Cologne has acqoired, since ito Invention by my ancestor in the year 1709, has Indnoed many people to imitate It ; and hi order to be able to s^ tbefar sporloas arfelde mere easily, and under pietezt that it was geimine, they pro- oored thenselyss a Ann of mrinot by entering into partnership with persons of my name, which Ui a very common one in Italy. Persons who wish to purchase the genuine and original Sam de Cologne ought to be parti- colar to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farinat but also the additional words, gegmilber dem Jmuh't PUUa (thst li^ opposite the Julicfa' Plate), without addition of any number. Travellers .y^ting Golog^et *nd intending to buy my gennlne article, are cautioned agatnst being ledastrsy by cabmen, guides, oommiBsioners, end other parties, who offer thefar lervlces to tliem. I therefore beg to state that my manufsetuxe and shop are tn the same house, situated oppoHte the Julicfa's Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, finequently, that the said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where, notwIttittaDdin^ assertlfm to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearty the half pert of the jpv^ paid by the parcbaser. who, of eoune, must p^ Indirectly this ranuDeatfon by a high price and a bad article. Another kind of imposition Is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters, eommissioners, &0., otTer to strangers Eau de Cologne, juetending that it is the genuine one, and that I delivered It to them for the purpose of selling it for my account The only osttaln way to get , In Oologne my gennlne article is to buy it perMmally at my honse, ORpofMtfiU JUUch's Placet fiirming the corner, of the two streets^ Unter Goldsohmidt and Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and having in the flntit six balconies, of ndiich the three bear my name sod firm, Johann Maria Farina, Gegentlber dem JQlich's Plats. The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fisct that the Jurors of the Great Exhibitions in London, 1861 and 1862, awarded to me the Prise Medal ; that I obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris. 1865 ; and received the only Priae Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 1867, and in Oporto 1865. CoLOOHx, Januarg. 1883. JOHANN MARIA FARINA, GEGENUBER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ. *^* MsssBS. J. ft S. M*Crack£N, 88, Queen Street, Cannon Street^ E/Z.^ K are my Sole Agents for Great Britain and Irela-nA, \ 22 MQRRArS HANDBOOK: ADVERTISER. May, creu:;nach cbad). PRIVATE HOTEL BAUM. FIBST-CL ASS Family. Hotel, best situated. Great oleniliness. Com- fortable Baths. Beautiful Garden. Excellent Oooking, Choice Wines. Pension moderate charges. Beeommended. JEAir BAPTISTS BAUX, Propxittor. "■ DAV08-PLATZ. HOTEL BUOL. F1IKST-CLAS& HOTEL, xmriraUed in its Sitnation, and especially patronized by English and American Visitors. O, BUOL, Proprietor. ■ Z DAVOS- PLATZ. HOTEL and PENSION BELVEDERE. LARGE FiTSt-ClAas H6tel (open the whole year), particularly recommended to EoglUi TraEvellen. Beautiful ^ews, close to the Pine Forests. Lawn Tennis Ground tod Skating Rink. Splendid suite of Public Rooms, full-sized English Billiard Table. English Library. Bank Agency in the Hdtel. English Comforts and ^iglish Sanitary arrangoneDts. English Church 100 yards distant. Pension for a Week's stay. For farther tatttrmallon apply to F. C. COEaTER, Proprietor. DIEPPE. H ^ T E L nO^S'AIL.. Facing the Beack, dhte to the Bathing EttablitihiiKMHit onA the Parade TT IS ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS ■i- IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the Sea. Families sod Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find al tiiis Establishment elegant Large and Small Aputr ments, and the best of aooommodatidD,' at veiy reaionable prices. Large Reading Boon, with French and Bogliih Newspapers. The R^shmenla, kc^ are of the best quality. In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the fiavourable opinion expressed of it in Murray's 9flA. other Guide Books. . ULBSONNEUX, Proprietor. ZViM fffTdtte end PrioaU DinMr*. ,. *«* ThU SoUl.{t open dU the Tear, DIJON. HOTEL DE LA CLOCHE. Mr. GOISSET, Proprietor. QUITE near the Eailway Station, at the entiunoe of the Town. First-Olass House of old repntaticm. Enlarged in 1870. Apartments for Families. Oarriagei for drivea Table d'fidfai and Sinrice in private. Beading Boom. Smoking Boom. English spaken. Exportation of Bnrg^dy WinM. The new OBAND HOTEL DS LA CLOCHE will be opened at the end of 1888. Jlotd JBhilarged trnd entirely Bettored and newly FwrvUhed, DOVER. ESPLANADE HOTEL. L FOR Famlllea, Gentleiften, and Tourists. Plesaantly situated AOSEEABLE SirUATIOV. LINDENSTRASSE 17. FSEISnEO IN BADEir. THIS new and comfor1»fele Sonse is lii tbe fliost beautifal situation and healthiest part of the Town, near the Railway Station. Opposite the Post and Telegrkph Offices. Beoonunended for its excellent Cooking, good attendance; and Moderate Oharges. HOTEL pension'' BELLEVUE. Well-kept EstabUshmenty in the midst of a large well-shaded Garden. 50 Bed Bbomi^. Pensio n 5 f , a day. J. SUTTEBUK, Proprietor. GENEVA. ElOHMOND FAMLT HOTEL. ON the border of the Lake, and opposite the Jardin des Alpes. Breakfast, 1 frano 25 centimes; Lnncheons, 2 firancs 50 centimes; Dinners, 8 francs. Booms &om 2 francs. Attendance 60 centimes. Pension from 7, 8, and 9 francs per day. A. R. ARM^UEDIEB., YTQret\RNfit, 26 MURRArS HANDBOOK ADYEBTISER. May, GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL. 300BOO1IB. 2aLBVAT0&8. ^^ Moet agreeable Bituatiain for. a longer stay. FINEST view on Mont* Blanc Gardens. Border of the Lake. Concerts. Danc«. Hydropathic treatanente. Three Baths on every floor. Milk, Whey, end Grape Care. Free Omnibns for gneets through the town every quarter of an ho ur. yRED. "W JBJBii, Proprietor. GENEVA. GRAND HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. THE LARGEST AND BEST IN GENEVA. MAYER ft gPNZ. ProprietorB. ' GENOA. ^ GRAND HOTEL DE G^NES. Meun. L. BOlsnSBA AND BBOTHEBB. PLAOS CABLO TEUOX, the moit beauilfnl tltaation In Um OUy. (FULL SOUTH.) This Hotel, foonerly the Palaw> Marohese Spiaola, was newly epened and enliitly re-famlshed aboot two y«>ars ago. Its situation, opposite the eolebraAed Tbealre C«to Felice, on the Piazza da Fercari, the healthiest part of the town, in the vicinity of tte English Chnrch, the Telegraph, the Post Office, tiie principal Pnbllc Boildings, and sstr all the cariosities In the town; free fhnn tbe noise of uufBaUway 8114 t|ie tfarmr. I^m and small Apartments. Table d'H^te. Sestanrant. Keading and Smoking Saloon, fiau Rooms. Omnibus from the Hotel meets every Train. Moderate Charges. GENOA. HdTEL LONDRES XT PENSION ANGLAISE. Tlie nearest to the Central Station. First Class. Full South Moderate Prices. NERVI. WIKTEB BSQTBBZVOUB, SHELTiBBEiD FBOil THE K.. N.E., AHD N.W. "WINDS BY MOUNTAINS. HOTEL AND PENSION VICTORIA. GOOD, WITH LARGE GARDXN. QMUNDEN, AUSTRIA. FACING the Steamboat landinff-plaoe. Oomfcrtable Fiiet - Olam Hotel. Highly reoommcndod. Mr. BBACHEB, the Proprietor, haa been in England and America, and knows the wants of English and Anierlcan Travellers. Charges mode- rate. Omnibus at the Station. Baths in the Hotel. ^ GOTHA. HOTEL SEUTSOHEB HOP. Proprietor, L« STAEBLEB, First-rate Hotel, situated dose to the PromeziBdea and near the Railway Station *, combtnea comfyrt with elegance. Baths in theSouae. Cairfages. \ GMUNDEN. KXTBR&T'S HANDBOOK. SOUTH GERMANY AND AUSTRIA, TYROL, HUNGARY, fto. Post 8vo. 10*. 3oHS fft-TSKB^i^ KS^T&sKtV^ ^tceet 1663. MURRAT'S HANDBOOK ADTKBTISEB. 31 GENEVA. HOTEL DE LA METROPOLE. FACING THE ENGLISH GARDEN 'PHIS HOTEL is fitted np in the mdat oomfbrtable and -1 laxariomi maonar, being providiid irith elegant Sftloona, as well u Xciona Diuing, Keading and OonTereatioQ Rooms. It contaiiiH no 1l one may not only cnjay an eztensite new of tbo adjoining oonatry, but may also witness the snoset to adranlage. Table d'liQte at 6 o'clock. Bervieu k la carte at all honrs. The greatoat variety of diahes. OboiDest Wines, anil coraful atbendanoi> being ^vcn. lioard turms can be obbuoed thronghout the year. Prom liie 1st of October to the 15th of Jnoo tho prices are reduced. Speoinl terms for Fnmiliis nnd ToiiriBta who engage to remain for three or four days. French, Engliah, and other foreign news- S.pen provided. Poat and Tolcnaph Office are tituated oppotdte the otel, and the Telephone is placed at the aervioe of vieitorg. Sdilvms TfcJcelt eon be procujid ai tlie Sblel H»df irCfhouf sdra lAarge. The Omnibua at the slBtioa to meet each train, and tho Manager reqaeats Ttaveller* on their arrlvnl at the station to hand the conductor of the same the tiokets for theiT luggage. HaidaTae Gamixftu Sa^^^liiaSa. I UURRAT'S BANDBOOK ADVEKtlSBa H THE GRAND HOTEL, CHARING GROSS, GLASGOW. Aputmmu. Hi Comfiirtable Hotel in Qlsnaw. W. O.Da.VJSSmx. Ifonagw. PatrmiB Co be IIib I 'Bol ftm Hotel to " Coliunlw " Steuoei tot Obu, ko„ cvory Uomlng. GRENOBLE. h:6tbi:j monnet. TmS Bplwdfdly-flEtnaled First-CliiaB Hotel, which' a the largest in tli« Town, and flajofa the iceU-ineiit«d favotu of Familiee and Touriata, baa been enlugud and Nuirly FaruiBhed. The AparbiienlB, largo aiul ■bmU,' combine eleganoe and oomfort, uid every atteation has bam pftid to make this one of the brat Frovinoial Hoteli,. Pnblic and Private Drawing-rooiDB ; Ecglish and French Papora. Table d'HOte at 11 and 6, Private Dinners at any bonr. Excellent Onisine. Uodeiate Chargea. Tlie OmnibuBei of tbe Hotel meet all Tiaine. I<, TBILI,AT, Proprietor. Flrst-ClasB Oarrtages can be had at the Hotql for Hxaardoiii to tliB Grande OhHrtreade, Uriage, and all places of interest amongat the AlpB of Daupbin€. URIAGE-LE8-BA1NS. HO'TSIL. RESXATJIiAJNT, MONNKT. Founded in 1846. HnRliah Tieitors will fcid every oomfort and luxory la this Firat-Claea EetabliEbment. Private Booma for FaoiilJea. Excellent Cuisine and Wiaea. Table d'}i6^ U and S. CsrriE^ea and Horsea can ' be had in the Hotel for ExourBiona anfli^toitiCTuiies. 1888. M0RRAY*S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 29 GRENOBLE. ORJLTCO HOTEL I>E lL.'ETJ»OI»E, PliACE GBENETTE. AFIE8T-0LAS8 HOTEL in every respect. Patronised by Engliah Familiei. Cknnfbrtable Rooms and good Table. Information for Alpinists and Tourists. Carriages for Excursions. Knglish Papers. Omnibus at Station. English spoken. BESSOy, Proprietor. ^^ . HAMBURG. HOTEL ST. PETERSBURG. iNLD-RENOWNED FIRST-OLASS FAIOLT HOTEU Bitwted on fhe Alster Bassin, / the most fashionable quarter of the town. Superior eomfart and aeoonunodation. able d'HAte and Bertaorant^U carte, (^arga Moderoie, New Softt$ lAj^, TOephone Q-. B3BUTBB, Plfoprietor. . HAMBURG. HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. OLD - BBNO WNED FIB8T-0LA8S HOUBE, patranised by the Imperial and Royal famllieB. Delifbtftil eitiMtioii. overlooking fhe Alster. 180 el^antl J ftimished Rooms and Apartments. Bath, Reading, and itaioking Boflms. Table d'HAte. Hydrsnlic lifks. Speelal arrs agemtt its made at a iooger stay. BRETTSCHinEnigR akp BANDIJ, FnyHeUiri. HARROGATE. THE GRANBY." FIRST-OLASS Family Hotel, facing the Stray. Every aooommodation for Yisitors and Tonruts. Carriages to Wells and Baths eveiy morning firee of charge. Good Stabling. Carriages on ffire. W. H. mLWBR, Proprietor. HAVRE. GRAND HOTEL BE ^OSMWDIEe First Class. Centre of the City. RUE DE PARIS; 106 & 108. In the finest quartety near ike Theatre. "Exchange, Pier, A;a OmnibuB and Carriages at the HoteL Table d'Hote and Bestaurant. ENGLISH SPOKEN. 1 HAVRE. HOTEL CONTINENTAL. Qaai des Etats XTnls et Boulevard Francois P'- Facing the Sea, FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, beautiMly situated; newly-built and famished, with erery modem coihfbrt. Largo and small Apartments. Booms from 3 francs. Table d'Hdte. Bestaurant " £ la Oarte." Saloon. Smoking Boom. Charges moderate. English spoken. Open all the year. MDREAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, oe CliJii-los. BOMMKB * aiiLiam^Ploiiiletori. GRAND HOTEL, HEIDELBERa, SPLKNDIl) SITUATION. MAGNIFICENT VIEW FROM 42 BALCONIES. Opposite Railway Station and Promenade. English Home Comforts and Moderate Charges. Proprietor, EMIL THOMA, (late Manager Victoria Hotel, Venice.) ^ HEIDELBERG. HOTEL EUltOT*E. TiUE llHdtu^ beitilliuiKd Hukl In H^ldelbei); ; tepL la lbi.>vn7 gnpcrior ani U Ibe Subou. Teti Id Ogld Bnihf fltWd np In & sn»rliir manner !d Ihe ] UriLlly modpr.ti. Kstlw.y ricktla sre luoed In th HAEZELI-QTIJEB, Proprietor. IT. KRiLL. PratirtFViT. HOMBURG. , WEBER'S E^TEL-EtlfiLISCEER HOF. 1883. MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 31 ^ HOMBURG. HOTEL BELLE YUE.— First-Ol^iss Hotel, exceedingly well sitoated, opposite the Park of fhe Korsaal, and close to the Springs. FlunlUes, and Single Gentlemen, will find this Hotel one of the most comfortabljBb combining ezoellent aooommo- datloB with oleanlineas and moderate Charges. Best French and English Ckwkinit' S!xoelltnt Wineik Haie and Partridge l^iooting finee. H. XUiLENBHRGEB, Proprietor. HQMBURQ. ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL.— Patronued by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales and several other Royal Personages. Highest Positlaii. First-Glass Hotel, dose to the SwinsB and the KnrMal, with fine view of the Taonus Mountains. Qsolei Aparuneots. hmb been newly enlarged by Three separated Villas. At the early «nd lh£er part of the Season arrangements are made t by Mr. W. 8CHL0TT£RBEGE.--This first-rate House is exceedingly 'veil situated near the Souvcei and the KursaaL It combines every comfort desirable with moderate charges. Large and small apartments. It has a beautUhl Garden fbr the uas of Visitors. Hare «nd Partridge Shooting at the free disposal of Visitors. Arrangements at Moderate Prices ^t the early And later part of the Season. hyeres-Les-paLmiers. GRAND HOTEL DES ILES D'OE. THIS FIRST-OLASS HOTEL is situated in the middle of a most beautiful Gkirden and near the new English Church. Lawn Tennis Ground. Dining and Drawinf" Booms ftJl South, oon- taining a Collection of FiotnreB hy a oelebratea French artist. Smoking Boom, BilliardB, and Baths. PemioH from 10 franca a day and upwards, E. WEBEB, Proprietor. HYERE8 (YAR). GRAND HOTEL D'ORIENT. THIS Hotel is situated in the most salubrious and sheltered part of HTires, and ia the Besort of the kite ot English and fVench Society. Drawing Boom Ml South. Billiards. ENGLISH NEWSPAPERS, HYERE8 (VAR). GRAND h6T£L BES HESP]BBn)ES AND PENSION. NE of the moBt comfortable Hotels in the South of France. English House, highly reoommended. Situated in one of the healthiest parts of Hy^es. Fiist-chuss accommodiition. Apart- meats, with Board, from 8 .to 12 francs per day, Wine included. Drawing, Beading, and Smoking Boom. Full South. Billiards, Baths, long Gfuxien with Lawn Tennis Ground. Omnibus at the Station. MARTIN VIDAIt, Propiiatoc-llLMA.%25t. 82 MURBArS HANDBOOK ADYWTISKB. May, HYERE8 (VAR). SITUATED in the &ew and moflt' select jjiulrter of the Towih Open, high, sheltered, and fall South. Excellent Bed-Kooma, cheerful S«lQi!i Coflfee Bcxnn. HandfBine Gommerdal Room and Good Stock Room. Billiards. Oipnibius ffte^ts even^ ^T^^aixu TASIPF on APPLieATIO^, SPidlAL TERMS FOR BOARVINO. CHAS. B. OLEMOW, Proprietor. »-«■ 7 iNNiSBRUbk. HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. MB. J. BEINHABT.— A new FirBt-Glass Hotel. •itnA.tMH fa/«ii>g Bplsndid valley of >the tun, Excellent Table d'Hote and i ,m X I III situated facini opposite Station, private Dinners. A prices. Well - famithi MewqwMnr . Sfilendid sHaMMPi View (JTMonnyn);. BngU^l^sap^wn. at very reesMiable Apartments. English INNSBRUCK (TYROU. HOTEL «OLDENE SONNE. PIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated ■*• 4ii the centre of iJie Town, affords every Modem Ck>mfort at reasonable Fldoes. INT£RLACkEN. J. GROSSMANN, Sculptor in Wood, and Manufacturer of Swiss Wood Models and Ornaments. Carved and Inlaid Furniture Mamvkfiaetuf^ io (my Deeignt AT INTSRI«A€KSN. HiB W AREHOUSK is situated betwe«n tibe Belvedere Hotel and 8ohweiMriM>j; \9bm be keeps the largest and best astortmenC of tbe o^^ib objects to be found in Swiisei^ land. He undertakes to forward Qtfodl to filgHDid aad «lflrivhere. Correspondente in England, Mesin. J. A B. MoCnAOKnr, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.G., London. ***• INTERLAKEN. I SCHWEIZERHOF- HOTEL SUISSE. J. & E. STBUBIN & WIBTH, Proprietors. ^H18 FirstrVl&BB Famllj. Hotel qjf pid reputation is situated in the best -/ poaJMaH'itttb^lttbB^t^ meti Ibft K»rtiA<}nffAfti^»» Every modem comfort. LSaS. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 33 INTERUKEN. GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. Magniftcent First -Glass Family Hotel; the beht situated at Interlaken. 400 BEDS. E LEVATOR. Special arrangements made for a stay of some time. EI>. H-XJCUTi, I*ropfietor. 5 ' ■ ■ ■ ■^r^F^^^^/^^*^rf\'V^»*^'rf^^/Ni■^'^ Wn» ^ \/'^'*"\#%*\/w»*^^ vn^n^^/v \/\/»'\rN'\^\'s^ GRAND HOTEL ET PENSION ' ■ .■ I . Situated in tfie Oentre of the Principal Promenade. 250 BEDS. ELEVATOR. \Pension from fve. 8. \ St MUBSAT'S HillBBOOK: iiDYXRTISBB. H*;, LNTERUAKEN^ J U N GFB A U. F. SEILER-STEReHI, Proprietor. npHIS Establiskmeut, with- two Braaoli Houses^ is situated ■■- in the centre of the Hohoweg, and enjoys a splendid view of the Jungfrau and the entire range* of the Alpa. It reoommends itself for its delightful position, as well as for its oomfoiiable accommodation. TABLE D'HOTE AT 2 AND 6.30 O'CLOCK. DINNEJtS A -LA CARTE. CARRIAGES, GUIDES, AND HORSES FOR MOUNTAIN EXCURSIONS. OMNIBUS WAITING AT ALL THE STATIONS. KILLARNEY. Bf HtT Most Gradout A:tuettit$ ffedal P§rmi»u», THE BOYAI VICTORIA HOTEL, Patronized by H.a«. TVISi^EUIKK OP If Ali9B; by HjLBitr miNOB ABTHUB, and by the Kayal families oi fYottce and BBlginm, w. T'HIS HOTEL is situated on the Lower Lake, close to the water's edge, within -L ten minutes* drive of the Bail way StatioiL and a short distance from the &r-fiuned6ap of Danloe. It is lighted with gas made on the premi^ies; and is the Largest Hotel in the dtitrict. A magnificent Oofi|ae»M}e|n, a> puMic Dnwipg-alpom- for Ladies and FaidUes Billiard and Smoking-rooms, and sereral suites of Private Apartments fkdng the Lake, have been recently added. TABLE D'HOT^ DURING THE SEASON. Cars, Carriages, Boats^ Pnd Porters attend the Trains. THERE IS A POSTAL TELEGRAPH OFFICE IN THE HOUSE. Boftrdi^ TepBi firam^potjsber^toJime, inobiiive. It is necessary to inf6rm Toiirlsls t^ai the Banwa/Ck>mpany, Proprietors of the Bfdlway Hotel in the Town, send npon the platform, cu Toutartfw their HobA^ the PortoiB, Car-drfvert, tfoatmen, and Guides in their employment, and exclude the servants of thto Hotels on the Luke, yrho vxUl, towew, be fomul in .w«ittaig«t the Station-door. 301££l 0»\*iaABLY, Proprietor. I 18S8. JIUHSATS HAJffDBOGT ADVERTISER. 9S KARLSRUHE. HOTEt. GERMANIA. SITUATED a fev inixmtes from the Raflwaj Statiop, on the Pabllo QardeiiB. This Fint-Clasi Hotel Is famished with everjr modem comfort. 100 Booms and Suites of Apartments. Bed aa^iuga and ih» mtlia Situated in th« nltUllex)) lllD'^Cargftrl^fk' Table d'H6te and Din«n' ii iMrt Pension in the •■arly and the Jnier ivut of the Season. £ngliah w c and water appUauct*. ^ ' ' WKUt^TERf Proprietor. -'.- LAUSANNE. 0RAV]) HOTfiL BE BIGHEVOKT. FUiltST and best ^tnated qalet Fint-ClASS Hotel of . LaoBanne. AmoDgst large xixdkiB. Id ab exGceaingly l)caatiftil and ncalthy poeition. Highly recommended. Moderate Charges. Pension. . . £ai37T£B:WO£«BOLD. LAU6AMNE. . HOTEL GIBBON. FIRST-GLASS Hotel, situated in the finest part of the town, and most highly reoommended. I^Lendld view of the Lako. Large Terrace and Gaxdm. Pension during Winter. Em LSBHTEB, Proprietor. LAUSANNE. HOTEL PElSrSION VICTORIA. BEAUTIFUL SITUATION, large garden. Most exoeUent house and reasonable terms. Lg, DEBPLAND, Proppletor. LE MANS. aHAISTD HOTEL. FORMERLY HOTEL DIOT et de la BOULE d'OB. Magnificent sftuaUon. SO, Hue Dumas. Gomfortahlfe Bedrooms and Sltting-n>oms f«r FaaiUes and Tourists. Salons^ Baths. Special Omnibos to tho Station. Ekiglisii spoken. J. CKASTSBL, Proprietor. A LI^QE. ■ HOTEL DE SUED& (Theatre Square). THE BEST HOTEL. Great ComforL -'■ In the Centre of thia lowni Boom, with Light, 3i francs. Tails i/Huxb, 3i ftanoi. i I LOCH LOMOND. TAHBET HOTEL P'the inost commodious on the LakQ. P^rtieti B^trdqd oii the most Moderate Terms. .. A. H. MAOFHIRSOV, Proprietor. liAXB uAaaioBE I nrtARNH lake KAoaiOBS Terminos of St. (iothard Railway and lake steamers. Beat intermediate stopping i^aoe on tae i Italian LalDM, with beantlfiilaaccanions and walks in theTsQej^of Jngi& aUYerasea. GBANB HOTEIi LO£JARNO. i Magniflcept Establishment, ooe of the finest in Switxerlaod. Two Hundred Booms, i . XngltriiClu^li. !Batttt. BUiiarda. LuiceOardea. i Penslunf^om Ultaa9C8,inciiidi&g Boom Open all the year. O. aOTCHAB dk Ck>. LONDON. ■■ /^ PHOTOS ^•'^^PRESENm, LEHS. A IiABGE Oollection of Views of the United Kingdom, France, Itidy, Spain and Portugal, Norway, Switzerland, Elg7P^ Palestine, Iiiilia, United SUted; English Oaltiedralsi Abbeifs Aid Castles, : from 1«. each, any quantity sent, on appr^Rral, to double amount' of oadi' Zi/dnt Lists oniec^pt of stamped addressed envelope 16 \ LETTS, SON, «& CO., LIMITED, sa, KXNO vniiiiiA.v. BiB.'Ssn;, i^oiscoois bbisqe, e-c. *•!■■ 9. MUitU;7*S.9AKDB0^ ADVBRTlHa.' LONDON. LAW tlFE^ mURANCE SOtlETY, FLEET BTBEET, LONDON. , The Hmmunbla Mr. Juiti lie Honirar.W6 Mf, Jubt Tbe HoBoumblB HAlibTnUHtOB Q. < TbeE ___ _. Jaa» CiKBi, Esq, q.a, lUng'i B»nch FBKBKBica AiuBSii lUfoean, JOHK DUDH. Esq., Iduct TcDipie. RnjttuU) DU Citt Em., GtAj't Inn Svius. WiLUU Jxns PAUui, Esu.. UdcoIii'i Ins FMdi. IIHMIY lav PuHsimm.B, Beq.. Bant IluiMin|;«. ■' HKSai J. L, Gaiajn. Esq, q MnBiatfn Lo|i«r. , llie Hpounrubli: \Lny.i> E.CiTHoaNs IIasdT, Ttmble, HrTiflMR iltiiBTHULL, aC M.l\ Noh Cautl. Ctitj SWe -I, Wit FuBuBBreK Hii!on.-S, Biq., CbtiStr Plact, IMgnfe SqOB*. Josh Jahbs Jobsbox. Esq.. Q.6., ICing'a Bcncli 1™*, Ttmplf, WiLLTAM Rons Miicom, Esq., Hertfunl QnnMnH, Puk Luu. ItlCHXBD HlCHDUOn. i>(l,, SprllLgliUdeiH. . . . . Chahlh Maklit Shtth, Rmi.. a Mualcror tnt SlqiRil(« Coort, JuuK Skdtt, fCsq.. Grcni CniulKriwul PLjv^. - '' John Uibuam m Tcesuali, Kea.. rnderlck'i Finn. OU Jsht; Edwahe ToKPsaN. Esq., StDiii .BuililteDi. Uncolii't Iin. ABKoiuWiurAH Wkiti, Esqi.d^n'iitna'IboruDBhSiml. Chablu Noubh WiLMi. Esq., CullFp Hill, CuDDon Stmt. Atnti te'Slsl iieoambtr, laaa '' •*. .-i '«C48a,4(|e VMMXpr^T«^.ia82 ,. ; :., . ,. ,^,4704^3 AmouutpaldlnClslma to siatDcoember, ,1882 r 13,419,060 Total Amwiiit of BonuMS hlthsrto ftllottod 6,198,991 The ExpenecB oT MaDAgstncnt arc iitK)ut.^4l'E0T.lielw of Uto Baeiatjtiiearij to ibo eitent of their aimendkr Talne. .> .:" Clalma are paid at the expiration of one month after the rcquisitu fevidenoa of death, upon aatiBfaatoi; proof of title .being fomiahedln tho Commiuion is aUoned to Solioitore, and othete, oa Folioies iD,troducad bj tbem. ProipectuB and Form of Proposal will bo sent an application lo tbit 38 If UBXdkTV HANDBOOK AD¥SBTIfiBB. May, »••- wvnon, KEW AND CHOIOE BOOKS. * ■■ »* More tlian One Hundred and Fifty Thowaikd VoUtmei of ike Best Books of the Past and Present Seasons are in Circiilatiort at MU DIE'S SELlECT LIBRARY. The Collection, ooniprislng aH the Best Modem Works of every shade of opinion on all subjects of general interest, exceeds ONE ISIILLION VOLUMES. Fresh Copies are added ais the dem'aiid incteases ; and an ample supply is provided cf all the Best Forthcoming Works as they appear. subscription; OHE GUINEA PER ANNUM. LONDON BOOK SOOIBTY SUBSCRIPTION, For the Free Delivery of Books in every part of Ixmdon, TWO GUINEAS PER AHNUM. Thousands of Families in London and the Sabnrbs already subscribe to this r)epaitineDt of ttie Library, and obtain a. constant snccesBidn of the Best Books of the Season. ' ■ • 1 BOOK SOCIETIES SUPPLIED ON LIBERAL TERMS. Prospectuses postage free on ai^ication. MTTDIE'S SELBOit LIBBARY^(Limited), 30 to 84, New Oxford Street, Londoa BRANCH OFFIGESU.281, RBGEIirr ^TRlCfiT, AND 2, KING STREET, CHEAPSIDR. ■ lit iij- fc.l I *l I | - i '" ii V I - ■ ^ * - rf > t il — GOIiD MEDAIi, PARIS, I67a Medal8:^Sydney, ISSO; Melhourue, 1881'; Ghri8tchurefi,N,Z,,im. Fry's . • I ^"X^^" Extract *' If properly prepavBdi thiatk Ib no ntoev or more whole- some preparation of Cocoa."— i>r. EassaM. •* St3i(crtly purfi, and well maiiii&ctiured4"-^ir. w. «(odortion of itB oily ingredients has heen extracted.* — chat. a. Cameron^ Analyst f^r Dublin. ■ ^^-i^fc^* m^ i^^*.** *■■ ■! ■■■■■■■*■■■■> I i«i !■■■■ /^ Me JTedals awarded to I A M & Sons, Bristol & London. 1883v MinSRJlTSHMn>B()flOK>ADVVR!riSBR; 39* v< THE I ■■■ f ■ .■i^. i I- . TBAFALGAR SQUARE, L O N DON. ■/ 1 . \,'^_^,^.^,'^/*_^ ." ^ ^» ^ ^.^ ^/ 2^ Magnificent Hotel occupiea (hei Finest Site in the CENTRE OP THE METROPOX.ISi And combines the Elegance and Luxury of ^he most important and attractivie Hoteki in Europe and America, with the Repose and Domestic Comfort which are essentially English. THE EBOENT EXTHNBIONS OF THE nUtr.DlNG HAY? ADDED TO ^ r . * THE (SRAND HOTEL UPWARDS OF A HU]NpRED BED AND SITiFme ROOMS. For Apartmenis, mddrem^HM 8£CIIETAI£Y. One of the SigUs and one^fihe Chm/orti.qf Idmdoni THE HOLBORN RESTAURANT, 218, HIGH HOLBORN. TBE FAMOUS TABLE D'HOTE DINNER, served at separate Tables, Arcomp«al«ii with SeleoUon of Hlgh-daaa Mnlrio by coopleta Orchettrk &.30 to % Aft «9«n ^^«^RMl^«^i^-^ 4^ MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERHSEEIL May, ;.OI^>D]^« FOREIGN Books At FOREIGN PRICES. Teavbllebs may save expense and fnmble by purchasing Foreign Books ii> England si Hkfd mw Flicef at which they are published in Qennany «r Fiance. WILLIAMS & NOR0ATE haTeiHiblidiedthfifoQowing^TALOGiPESortl^eirStook;^ . 1. GIiASSIGAI. OATALOaUE. 8. THEOLOaiOAL CATA- LOGUIS. 8. FRENCH GATALOaXTE. 4. aEBMAN GATALOaUB. 6. ZUBOPEAN LINaxnSTIO CATALOaXTE. 6. ORIENTAL GATALOaUE. 7. ITALIAN GATALOaUE. 8. SPANISH GATALOaXTE. 9. ABT-CATAIfOaUE. Art^Archi- tecture, Planting, niostrated Books. lOb NATURAL HISTORIC GATALOGXTE. Zoology, Bo* tany. Geology, Chemistry, Mathe- matics, &C. 11. NATXTRAL SCIXNOE CATALO&XfE. ^thematics, Astronomyy FhyBTcs^ Chemistrj, Technology. IS.- MEDICAL OATALOGTJE. Medicine, Surgery, and the Dipen- dent Sciences. 18. SGHOOL OATALOaUE. Ele- mentary Books, Maps, &c. 14. FOREIGN BOOK OIBCU* X«AB8. New Beoke, and Kew Purchases. 15. SOIENTIFIC^OOX CIRCn' LARS. New Books and Rsoent Purchases. ▲NT CATALOGUE SBIIT POST-FBEK FOB ONE STAMP. WILLIAMS Ss NORGATE, Importers of Foreign Booka, 14, HBNBiETTik Stbset, CoYiEXTT Gabden, Lohdon, and 20y South Fbedxbick Sxfissr, SdibbDboh. A Pure Solution. For Acidity of the Stomadi. For Heaithornand fleadaehe. For Gout and Indigestion. .Safest Aperient for Delicate OonstitntloDB, LadleB, Cihildren, and Infants. DINNSFOBJ) ^ CO., 180,.N.ew Bond Streett London* Sold &y Chemists thtvughmU ths Worl^ ■* ^ ■ ■■* -■ * ■ ^ ' ■ ' • -- ' - '' II DINNEFORD'S MAGNESIA. . — -It — .^_ GOLD KBDAL, PARIS, 1878. JOSEPH GILLOTT'S STEEL PENS. SDiify0iitluUtrt Hirtlithout tlu WtrU. m* ^ MURRAY'S HANDBOOK FOR PORTUGAL: LiSBOV, Opobto, Gintba, Mafra, &0. Ha|> and Plan. Post 8?o. 12i. JOHN 1£U13AAT, a\.^is;».xsi;ei street. 1«83. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 4t ■'ill KALYDOR oools and refreslies the face, liands and arms of ladies aad «U expoeed to. the hot sun and dust; it eradicates all freckles, tan, sunburn, stings of insects. .&c., and prodnces a beautiful and delicate complexion. lyr A /^ A Qfi A Tt ATT preserves, BtreDgiQiQns, and boanti- OIJEklOiXOOOJMf VJJJ leA the haAr. and can M alsd had in a golden colour, for fair or goldcn^haired children and persons. Sixes 3/G; 7/-; 10/6. equal to four small. ^^^*VPf|f ^ whitens and preserves the teeth, strengthens the gninB, ^M^^Si JL V *^^ gives a pleasing fragrance to the breath. 1.1 1 1 [!▼ TTOT A ^" ** I'^c^^i^i^^ ^&sAi for bleansing the hair and JCl \j X; ^ X OX/jL f per bottle. M 1 1 IJ ^"KTT A Is a beautifully pure, delicate, and ffagront toilet J!l \j XjL V J3I XaX powder. Sold in three tints; white, rose and oreMn. . ^ . 2/6 per box. . Ask any dealer in perfumery for Rowlands' articles, of 20, Hatton Garden, London, and avoid jgpanowit worth^eee imitatioKis. TRAVELLERS* REQUISITES. MAPS OF EVERY COUNTRY OR PART OF THE WORLD. Knapsacks and Bags, Passports and Visas, Colour Boxes, Drawing Blocks, Guide Books, and Time Tables, LETTB'S B6ok of Engli8li\Road8, Third Edition', 428 pp!, 58. Send Stamp for TotirUt CkUalogue, . ... LETTSr, SON & CO., LIMITBD, 83, KING WILLIAM STREET, LONDON BRIDGE. E.O. LONDON. THE LOm)ON AND WEBTHINSTEB BANE, Limited, iBsnes Circular Notes of £10, £25, and £50 eadi, for the oae of Trayellers payable In the principal Towns on the Continent of Europe^ ijso in Asia, Africa, and North and South America. No expense whatever is incurred, and when cashed BO charge is made for commission. Letters of Credit are also granted on the same places. They may be obtained at the City Office in Lothbnry, or at any of the Branches, viz.:-— WestBiinster Bnoch Bloomsbary « Soathwark » May, 1883. 1, St James's Square. 214, High Uolbom. 6. HighSt, Boroogh. 130, Hl^ St, White- chapel. Maiylebone Branch . 4, Stntfind Place, Oxford Street Temple Bar h • 2lY, Strand. Lambeth „ • 89 ft 91, Wettmfawter Sontfa K«ns\n^jV>ii^TMiOx AVi^'fixQiKtfwsB.'^A, 42 MUB&AT&/0ANWB)O!(i)k(,A|)VBBT^Ib' Mtf, LUCERNE. II I III . . 8GHWEIZEBI0F. LUZEERESEOF. HAUSEB BEOTHEBS, Propriktobs. BEST SITUATION ON THE QUAY. With splendid Yiew of the Celebrated Panorama of the LAKE AND MOUNTAINS. LUCERNE, GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL SEGESSER BROTHERS and Ci^., Proprietors. npmS large and splendid HOTEL is one of the moet -^ comfurtable in Europe. Situated in front of the Lake, with the finest Views. Every Attention paid to Toorists. A LIFT von THE USE OF VISITORS. LUCERNE. SWAN HOTEL. THIS HOTEL, in the verr bf Bt situi^ticm, enjoys a high eharacter. Mr. HiKFKLI, tbe Proprietor, has made in the later years $, gre«fc many improve menls, and doe^. bis utinost to offer to his Visitors a comfortable home. An efeeantnev Ladles' Drawing KootA, besliles a Re«ditig Room and Smoking Room. -Cold, Warm, aad Shower Baths. LYONS. GRAND HOTEL DE LYON. PLACE DE LA BOURSE. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 1883. MmtRArS HANDB0C5K ADVERTISER.- 43 LYNTON, (WRTH DEVON. ROITAL CASTLE FAMILY HOTEL. Patronised by ff.R.H, the Princ4 of Wales dnd otiter Members »f the Boyal Family. The Finest Sea and Land Views in the Worid. THU Hbtdl, ttiadlny In Its own onkammtal gnmiids uf mor^ tban IS atrm, 060 feet Rhon the level of flia mm, oveiloQklnK th» Brtatdl Cbaiaial. ixanmnnda tinlntemiiited tIawb of the Vnlloysof the Seat anil Wert XornSi Ijim OUtf, BreaOen and Cuiwtietory Uilla, the Ton, tke VJllafla of I^nmovtii, tlia Fonlaad, the Weuh Goaet, and tiie far-famed Valley of Ibtclu. Having been under the management of the pretent proprietor nearly SO jreait, the Hotel has been recently and ostenalTely enlai-((ed to meet the requirements of tnoaani Sodetj, aud combines the cemfbrt of a prirate hotue with the oonvenieneeKKrt8 WILLIAM RBID. Steamers boarded on Arrival. MUiEB CABMO HOTEL. Every comfort for Families and Single Travellers. Tennis Ground. Billiards. Reading and Smoking IU>om6. I^arge Garden. Address Proprietor. All Steamers met on Arrival. SANTA CIiAHA HOTEL. Admirably situated, overlooking Funchal. J^ne view of H^jentains and Sea. Vide Rendell's "Guide to Madeira.* Tennis Ground and Garden. Address Proprietor. Steamers met on Arrival. Hortas (German) Hotel. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. SFLEKDIDLY SITUATED. . 8ea and Mountain Views. German, French, and English spoken. Address F. NUXFS, Manager. MADRID. GRAND HOTEL DE LA PAIX. THU ONLY PKENCH HOTEIj IN MADRID. FIRS'f-OLAeS H8tel, Boarding- House, in the finest part of the Paerla del Sol, with magnificent views ana ftUl southern aspect. Table d'Hute. Private scnioe. Laige and small apartments. Bath. Keading-ruom, with Piano. Foreign News* papers. Great eomfort and cleanliness. French Ouitim. Omnibus at^Rallway SUtiona. Interpreters. Grand Hotel de londrei. Family Hotel. Annex of the H6tel de la Paxx, under the same numagemcnt. Moderate Prices. T. CAPDEVIBIiLB & Co., ProprvetoTt oj bol\ r.%>a«*. •< x.. 44 ]n»SA.TS HAMBBOOK ADWRflENP. IMf , HOTEL K EI N GBR. FIRST and Largest Hotel, with privflto holises^ HALBM A Yft'8 H0U6E, MAILHOF N«. leo, Mvl tha noently opened HOT fe^L ^LINGER, late Sud« DrewleD, ** oonneoted with the Old House," most beaatiful situation of the S{m, sittiafe at ttie corner of tile Promenade on the Kreuzbriinnen and the Park, cofmminditag a eharmiog view. Newly and elegatiily fnrni^d. 850 Rooma and Saloona. Heading, GooversatioD, aad • SmoMng fiooma. Hit. Table d'hut« and «k Jka cacta. Meals sent iout iaip private houaca. Carnages at the Hotel. On^tibns oi the Station. In answer to several ioqQiries, the Proprietor ^egfr t<» hitlmata ibat bedoes not keep Touters, and therefore begs to warn Travellers i^aiust asjr fala^ statements respecting hu Hotel iMingftiU, etc*- ■ . J. Av HALBMAYB, Proprietor. MARTIQNY (VALAIS). \ k T^HJS First-class Hoti&l ier situated in a fine position, enjoying^ a very -L extended view of tfie Be^i Second'Cla»9 BJotd^ • .•■• « * > r HOTEL DE (LA GARFE. .• ■ _■ ■ f • : » ' ^ ' ■ . ■•-.■. I ■ M ENTONE. , (ftP9> .Mirltimes.) .W J h6tel des anglais. THIB:w4llTkuo\vfi fi!Bhib]ifihm^(; the onlyJQjDftel hayii^ a Lift (iit' the Bast' Bay)^ htts b^en newly improved^ and combines' every modem comfort with moderate and fixetl prices. 'Situated in the iilast BaJ/n^Ar.the fa^pnrit6'jre>id('n<»e (>f Hier Majesty Queeii Victoria, '< yv^^r^^*^ 'i^ J^^S^^^^^f^m^^ Proprietor. mfm im. mmiMtTB h audbook abtektbul > 45 Mifa pJarrRAL ■ FIRST-OLASS ESTABLISHMENT, in a \J Soutbem aspect, CK^Mopkih^/the seA, with a beautiful Garden giving ' aooesa to the. ** rroyooenade du Hidi,** Tho myi^ propiriotor, an Englisli- '■. Bian^ has greatly enlarged and improTsd the Hotel, aidding'a Lift, a^id ' r^sideking the i^lldrs'wHli excellent Wine. " English. cleaniineBs and tsomfort; Pension- aifangementsv ' BEVBBAIj, SYOBSION I^ANayAOS^S SPOKEN. Ovmibui to dndfrom th6 Station. •MENTONE. H6TEL DE" BELLE VUE. rnms wifl4pfvix lIBIlABUSHliE^T i& beoatifnllv attoatad In the Lcujctl.T$nnis Court. . .1 G-^ ISNAKD, Proprietor. ■ ••• ~ METZ. GRAND HOTEL DE METZ. Well known for its Comfort and Cleanliness. E Z C E liXTEXTT: >AC P O M1|I:QD ATI O N. Loki)bN irrabss.' ' MILAN'' ' 'i GEAHD HOTEL DE MILAN. 200 Booms and Salodns," widi every dbinSTort and requirement ' :'''^*:i>fftoj>r«f0*tdisr,rr^ THE OKLY HOUSE AX MILAN .WHICH KARA. lELEGfiAPH, ; POS,Tr..A^ K^LWAX, OFJJPE. , , ^ Hydr Atiiic 3Eiifb. ,,. __ J. SPATZ, Co^roprietor of the Grand HStel at Locarno, and ..- 1 ? . . • . qfth^GtcmdHdtd at Vendee. i MILAN. THE INGUSH ANI>- GERM ANv .PHARMACY. ,i . ft. TALIV^ Ckoiit li . . YU MANZOKI, .MIl4A|7,.Coppfeit« 4)6 On^ H^l de MlUii> ., . , ,EN0U8H, FRENPH» .QCRMAN, AND AM&RJCAN 8PECIAI.ITIEQ. PtescripHons prepared by qualified JSngliA and Gemuth AuittaiUi, according to (ktir . TMMetwe Pharmacopceias. . I xzMitAti Wi»a& i»m»& HOTEL DE LA GRANDE BRETAGNE. Best Position in the Town, faoing the Public Gardens, where Concerts are given Pa^ily, and overlooking the PROMENADE fiES ANGLAIS AND THE SEA. "New Beading und Smoking Booms. Botcth. COSMOPOLITAN HOTEL (late Ohauvain's). Enlarged^ Beatored, and ejfiirely.. B^uitiished by, the New Manager. Beading, Zjadids* ]>rawing/ Billiard, and Snioklng Booms. SPLENDID KSrAfLERXte PROMENOIR. j FblJR LIFT3., J, LAVIT, Directeur-G^rant J I I ' ■ y ■ ■ ■ I ■ — t^lCE. HOTEL DE FMNOE— Quai Massdna. WE?..a^ZUNDEL, Proprietreto. FIR8T-GLAS8 FAMILY' BOTEL, of imiversal reputation, comjAfinding u fine l^iew of the Sea, anA in t>Mt oentlbl podition, close to the Puolio Garden and the Piomonade. Hou&e Patronised especially by Engliah and Ameariooa Fa ViUi^. Lift... Table d'Mdle, having tke^ lUputatioHof being the best in Nice, Charges very moaerotte. 1883. MURRAIN HANDBOQ^ AS>YM»7JSK^ 49 NUREMBERG. HOTEL DE BAVIEEJ!. pBOPBniiTBBSs, Mbs. G. P. AUINGBR. THIS FlrsUOIass Hot^l is situated In the twiddle of the Town, close to the Riyer. It is bighlj pfitronized by Elnglish and American Families* Every comfort and Moderate Charges. Hot a^ Cold Baths in the Hotel. OmnibuBH to and from mok Train.' ' CarHaiiferin'the ffe^ : ...... : ,-- - * -■-■«-• - ■■- ^ .;■-■' ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICE HELD EVERY SUNDAY IN THE BOTEl NUREMBERG; RED HORSE HOTEL (ROTHES ROSS). FiBSrr-CLASS hotel, highly patroDiscd by Bki{dlsb aud Amorioaa FamlUeB. Situajvd ■ ffi the middle of the Townf. Moderate Tertris. " ' OALEMB3BBTI and 80K, Proptieto^/ NAPLES. HOTEL DE ROME; FIRST-RATB HOTEL. Incomparable ftftnation fitcing the Sea and overlooking the Bay and Monnt Vwovius. Great Bath SUaHiikvUnU*.. A. BRUSGHETTl, Manager. OSTEND. MERTIAN'S FIBST-OLASa FAMILY HOTEL AND PENSION. Close to the Kursaal. OSTEND. H6TEL DE LA PLAGE. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL FACING THE BATHING PLACE. Highly renominended. <■' i . . i J. and O. iTHOtf A, Frbprietoirs. QSXEip). '' HOTEL DE BgSSIE. FirstrOloss Hotel next the Carsaal, and opposite f&e' iBaihs. AUG-. QORQENS, Proprietor. r I ym\ A . t OXFORD. IS patronised by Royalty, Nobility, Dlstlngulihed ForeignerB and Families. AflTords every Comfort and Accommodation. Charges Moderate. Ladles' CofTeelioom. Billiards. Established 1400. OXFORD. . R.il^NI>OIL.FH HOTEL. - THB ONLY MODERN HOTEL, FIRS7^€LA88. Every Gomfort. Clow to the CoUeges. Prices Moderate. MISS I* ANSON, Mana^T««a, \ 50 MaRfiArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Kaj, OXFORD. THE CLARENDON HOTEL. (l»atronisi»d by H.RH. The Priuce of Wales, H.R.H. Prince liRopold. Tbrir Imperial Majestieri tlie Kmperor and Empress of Brazil, the Prince*:* PVederlrk Otiarlot* of Pruftsla, and i*rince I/>u1b Liieieti Ikmapaite.) fiitimte in the moet central part of th«> City, and near to the principal Colleges, and plac«e of Interest tt visitors. Families and Gentlemen will find thL< Hot>l replete with everycomfort. Spadous Coffee and Killiari Rooms. Private Sitting and Bed llooms en suite. Ladies* Coffee Boom. Guides always in atten lance. Fashionable Open ami Close Carriages. Job and P(«i Hoirea. Good Stabling and Commodious Coach Honsps.— JOHN F. ATTWOOD, Proprietor. FABIS. HOTEL BELLE VUE. 39, AVENUE DE L'OPERA.. FINEST SITUATION IN THE FRENCH CAPITAL. FIRST-BATE Bestaaraiit and Table d'HSte. Beading and SuioUng Booms. Hydraulic Lift, Balhs. Telephone. The Entrance Hall, Staircases, and Corridors are heated. Anangements foi the Winter Season. I. HATTSEB, Proprietor. PARIS. h6t£L des deux mondes ET D'ANGLETERRE, 22, AVENUE DE L'OPERA. Faumded in l^^, formerly 8, Itua tTAntin, Mr. LEaTJXSXT, Proprietor. Splendid Bituation between the Tuileries and the New Grand Opera. The mott eomfoi'table Family Hotel, beings built spectally. Patronized by the English Aristocracy. EXCELLENT TABLE D'HOTE. READING, SMOKING, AND BILLIARD ROuMS. BATHS. LIFT TO EACH FLOOB, MODERATE CHARGES. ABEA^'GEmmTS MADE. THE HOUSE IS HEATED at.t. OVER. / PLYMOUTH. Only Hotel with Sea View, (ON THE HOE.) JfstciDg SoQud, Breakwater, fee. Mail Steamers anchor In sight. Pablic Rooms, and SitUoc Boonu, with AtlooDies. JAMES BOHN. Proprietor/ [ MDRIUrS RAirDBOOS ADVERTISER. HIGH -CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. LIFT. RUE DE RIVOLI 52 MUBRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISES. tfaj, PARIS. Second Edition, with 850 IHnstrations, 8vo, 18«. THE PARKS AND GARDENS OF PARIS, con- Bidered in Belation to the Wants of other Cities and of Public and FriTate Gardens : being Notes on a Study of Paris Ghirdens. By W. BOBINSON, P.L.S. " The Frmxb pftrks, promeoAdfli, gardens, and BquareB are all better kept than otm. We trast tliat the example tb^y hare sci us in improving both the artistic appearance and safeiitary condition of their dty will not be lost on those who have grand oppcNrtnnities to do sb much for London and the Londoners. Many useful hints may be obtained from Mr. Bobin- son's book."~.0uadcr. " The illustrations which are scattered over the volume assist in making doubly clear tbft lessons of this clearly and deiverly-wrltten work." — Satw-dajf JSeview. " With reference to the especial subjects of which it treats, Paris has never before beoi •0 thoroughly laid apeu."— Athenaeum. ** The author examines the various parks and public gardens of Paris in referaice to the particulars in which they differ from our own. He describes tlie operations in the immense and admirably-oonda^ed establisliments belonging to the state or city for the supply of the parks, fp^-rAtma^ and pnUic buildings, and altogether the work is one of great valne."" Standard, ** While one part may be said to be devoted to the public health, the other treats of tbe no leBS Important question of the supply of food, and Mr. lloUnson's d^ftailed acooont of the more unportant fruits and T^etablcs for the Paris maitots wiU be read wltti great interest by consumers, and no little profit by the producers of such necessaries of life."'- Not€i and Querie*, Works by the same Author. ALPINE FLOWERS FOR ENGLISH GARDENS. How they may be Grown in all parts of the British Islands. Wift Woodonts, Grown 8to. 7«. 6d. THE 8TTB-TROPI0AL GARDEN ; or, Beauty of Form in the Flower Garden. With niustraiions. Small 8yo. THE WILD GARDEN ; or^ Our Groves and Gardeiui made Beautiful by the NatunOization of HaidyEzGftIo Plants. Wiib 90 XUnitEtttioDS. 8va HARDY FLOWERS. Descriptions of upwards of 1300 of the most Ornamental Species ; with directions for their Arrange- ment, Onlture, Arc. Post 8yo. JOHN MXmilA.X, AliBEMAKLE STREET. MOBHAT'S HJLNDBCME ADTERTISBR. P A U. A WINTER KESOET, renowned for tlio nnincroua cures nbich & residence has Bleated, particularly m cases of AiTectioaa of tiio Cheat, Hearl, Lnrjnc, and Throat Pau poet^eaacH a, mild and aalubrioua clininte, lying iii the midat of Bceuei; uf great gnta^ieur ; on tbree daya in each week Fox-bimting ttnH Polo MatcJiea take plaoH, and dnring tbe ninter and epriiig there ore Boiie RaeBB twice every mouth. In ddditioD to these tLttraotions, there are Good Clubs, a Theatre, Opera, t«o CoBiQos, Balls, Pigeon BhoatlDS Matches, Cricket Matches, Skating Rinks, Engliah Bourdiog and Day School, Ac., &o. 7IB3T-CI.AS3 HOTEL AND GOOD BOARDINa HOTTSBS. Villas, Hooaes, and Furnished Apartments to Let, AT VARIOUS PRIGES. All particulare cent gtatoitously, addiesa Mr. FBEDEBIO DANIBL, Dirsctear G&anl da C Union SyndkhU;!, Mue des Gordeikrs, i'uu. CRAND HOTErSEAU SEJOUR. 1IBST CLASS Becominended for its Oomfort. Incomparable poe tion lOr Lesaly of the Puno tiou ApartnieiiU for FamlUeB v ti vleir aDbrkdaK the B0nB.Trei1TS ■BTtroTV.fc'y St MURRAY'S HA.SDBO0K ADVMTISER. ■ Hi; PENZANCE MOUNT'S BAT HOlfcL, ESPLANADE. PENZANCE. QUEEN'S HOTEL. (o» a, E,phnade.) Palronised by Her Mijesly the Qupen of Holland. k. B. UOHA, Proprietor. 18^3. MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 55 HOTEL 'mIRABEAU, S9 Xtue de la. Pa,ix« Patronised by the Boyal Families of several Courts of Europe, BEAUTIFULLT situated between the Place Yenddme and the New Openi, this Hotel poMesses the prettiest Court-Tard in Paris. Table d'Hote at separate Tables. All Lingaages spoken. Ldft to each Floor. Arrangements made dnring the Win tor. PETIT (Uncle and Nephew), Proprietors. PISA. HdTEL ROTAL fiRARDE BRETAfiHE ET D'AHGLETERRE. T^HE BEST HOTEL IN PISA (see Mnrray's Handbook of Central Italy), opposite the New Britlge, ** Pont Solferino," leading direct to the Leaning Tower. Patronised by Henry Wadsworth Long- fellow, Silyio Pelllco, and Manimo d'Azegiio, whose recommendation is written in the Visitors' Book of the Hotel. Fifty years established, and known for its great comfort. Splendid Teiraoe, with view of the Surrounding Country and Cathedral. Full South on the Anio, with a nice Garden. Next to the English Church. CAPOGCHI AND BIENESINL special Terms at Moderate Prices for Hie Winter Season. P18A. BOTAIi VIOTOBIA BOTBIi. (X mn. O^ml oitenMofi. ReeowuMnde d . Mmtn. Maqvat HbOKBs'a Banking Qflloe tointhtHoteL RAPHAEL : His Life and Works. By J. A. Cbowi and O. B. Oayaloasxllb. YoL i. 8yo. 15«. John Mubbat, Albemarle Street. PBAGUK H6TEL VICTORIA. First-Class Family Hotel. English Landlady. J. & H. "WSaiCSSBi^ MPRRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEimSEB. K.n HOTEL GOLDEN ANGEL, ZIM GOLDENEM ENGEL. HOTEL DE L'ANGE DOR. Zoltnoi.- Street, Old Xo-wm. Situated at on easy distance fiom tbe Knilivay to DreBdi?D and Vjbdiia, Poat and Telcgnipli Oflioea, the CuBtom Honae, the Theatre, and other public buildings, Eiujli-h and Fretidi Neirtpapers. Cold ami Wann £atiu. P. STICKBL. Proprietor. l".-ii*ft.''i ;•J^J^s%ss.'ffi»*'"5 RAGATZ. SOHWEIZERHOF EOTBL A PENSION. TOtKiaa BgOTHBBa, PropriHaa. REIMS. GRAND HOTEL Beet establialimcnt in tlie Tonii. 1883. M0RRArS HAN0BOOK ASVBRTISBR. 57. RIGU HOTEL AND FEISION BIQHI-SOHEIDEG]!:. TerminuB Station of the BS^i Kaltbad-Soheideck Kailway. ExceUently suited for Tourists and PensioMrs, ' View on the Alps as heautiful as at Rigi-Kulm, MODERATE CHARGES. LIBERAL TREATMENT. Bjf a itaj of not lets than fonr days^.ttrraDgemeiii; by pcnaloa can be made at t to 12 fraaes per day per person. For farther information apply to the Proprietors, HAITSEB tt ElTEBRLHt. N.B.--ToariBts luvtaig Tickets from Yltznaa to Klgi-Kalm can intermpt the Jsnrney at Bigl Kaltbad, take advantage of tiie beantiftil Excursion to Scheideck and back, and then oQDtinM the ^mvey to Kilua by a Ibllowing Train. __________ ALPINE OLIMATE. 1606 metres above the sea. Opened firom June to October. FinuCiass Hotel, wHh 300 Rooms eomfbrtably famished. Finest sttoa- ttoB. The only EstablishmMit on the Rigi sheltered ftom the cold winds. T^arge Park and Gardens, Terraces, Yerandahs, especially for the nse of Visitors. Leval Walks and fsoilitles for Bxenraions. lUdhray Station. Post and Telegraph OSeei. Phyeidao. Baths. DiviQa-Service. Good Orchestral Bond. ^EWSPAPEUa^ BILLIARDS, ^c^ IN THE HOUSE. Pension Arrangements. Further information will be given by X. SEG-ESSEB FAADET7, Proprietor. ROME. HOTEL MINE RVA. THIS larg^ EstabliBbment, whose direction has lately been taken up again by tho Proprietor, M. Joseph Sauve, baa been considerably ameliorated both as regards the perfect aervjoi and tlie n^t daborato cdrnfort Lajgo Apartments as well as small, and Booms fbr Parties with more modest tastes, both very carefully furnished, are to be found here. . r Its position is one of the most advantageous. It is situated in the 'tsty centre 'of the Town, and close to tho most remarkable Monuments, the Post and Telegraph Offloca, thaHouse of Parliament, and the Senate. , The Zjadies* Drajnteff Boom, the Bmolcinff Boom, . «nd Beading Booms, wfierb the.j>rincitiel Nowspapctf ^ every codntrv are to be found, and tho Bathing Booms, are always carefully wanned. TWO OMNIBUSES BELONGING. TO THE , HOTEL MEjET EVERY TRAIN. THE WAFTEBa AND CEAMBSRMAIDS 8PBAK ALL T^E PRINCIPAL LANQUA0E8, VERY MODERATE TEMftS.. 58 MdKRArS HANDBOOK ADVBfiTISBE. Wlj, I ROME. TJOTEL ANGLO-AMEBIOAIN, YiH Frattina, 128. Between the Cono ^^ and Piazsa d'SfMgna. Tbe nearest Hotel to the Pont and Telegraph OfOceA. Situated fall So«tb, in the moat healthy part of tbe Tovil l^Arge and snukll Apartments. Table d'H6te. Roitauranfc Salon. ReadinKRoom, with Hewspapersiii fonrlongnagoBk Smdlcbig and Billiard Room. Bath Room. Pension, and arrangements for Families. Moderate Cbai^s. Omnibns at the Station to meet every Train. The principal languages are spoken. YISeiOTTI A MERLT, Proprietort. ROME. GBAND H&TEL DE RUSSIE, ET DES ILES BRITANNIQUBS. This FirBt-CiafeS Establishment possesses tbe advantage of a beautiful Garden, and is situated near the Englisb and American Chrnvhet; the principal Apartments face the South, the entire Hotel being warmed by two calorif(&ree, and tbe whole arrangement* and moderate prioes giva univftnal satisfacklen. Hydraulic Lilt. MAZZBBI, Proprietor. ROTTERDAM. H. A. KRAMERS & SON, IIMCVO&TSRS or TOUME/QV ^BLOOMB, Mr. IduBBAT't 'Uandboolu f«r Travieiltrs,' BRAMpyukW'a ttoathly B»ainj GuMts, BasDBKS&'« * ReiaetaaxidbtteheK/ and HmrDiouBL'a 'Telegraph,' alwa^ in Stoek. Books in all Languages imported every day, and a great variety of New Bookf kept in fikora. 26, GELDEBSCHE ZADE, g6. ROUEN. GRAND HOTEL D'ANGLETEBBE (On the Qnay> Mr. AUGUSTS MONNIEK, Proprietor. Successor of Mr. LfON SOUCHARD. THIS HOTEL is dtatinfaiabei for the aalaJbrity of Its situation, ftc ; and the new Pro- prietor has entirely refitted it, and added a very comfortable Smoldng-Boom. It if situated on the Quay teeing the Bridges, and oommauds the finest yiew of Uie Seine, and the magnificent Scenery encircling Rouen, that It is possible to imagine. Travellen will find at this first-rate Kstablishment every comfort— airy Booms, good Beds. Befreshmeots and Wines of the best quality at moderate Prioea. An excellent Table d'H6te at Six o'cloak. BMlaurant & to ooris. -• v Mr. Monnier speaks English, and lias English Ber^aiktai An excellent Descriptive Guide of Rotten can be had of Mr. Monnrb. ROYAT-LE8-BAIN8. GRAND HOTEL. L, BEBVAHT, Proprietor. FIRST-GLASS HOUSE. ENG^SH SPOKEN. LAWN TENNIS. Opened from the First of Mody till tfie end of October. aAUSBTTBT. THE BED LION HOTEL. ▲ rapetlor flnt'daai Botol, vannrpaiMed ia tbe Caialoe Dquwtment. Ifoled for ite OlekolUieai, Civilitjr, mmI Mudan^ tlbargw. Hot and (Md Baths. A liuiie doable Billiard Koom. OeniagM jfar Stonehaaga, Old Sartnn, Iflkoii Ghurdi, auS other pUtoea of interest. BOHWAIiBACa Oraasau). HOTEt METROPOLE, ANNEX VILU METROPOLE.. rUBSIVOLUa . BOTKL. Fine Bitaetion, la tte r maa fdnr Ud'heelthiest pert. Lvige GeidcB. iMfm Tmau. aVOB/B^ TV7]iJn|8^:f¥OStl«PT. \ a.-saS.B81«BB, proprietor. 1883. MDSRArS H^DBOOK ADVEBTISER. 59 SALZBURG. HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. OPPOSITE the Station. First-Olass Hotel, snirounded by a large Park, and offering the best view on the Mountains. PENSION. IMiodLerate Chai^es- G. JUNG, Proprietor. "^"^ SAN REMOj ITALY. -^ WEST-END HOTEL. A LAEGE Building, expressly built for an Hotel, with all "^^ the latest appliances to insure perfection in sanitary arrangements — its Closets being on the most approved English principle. Beautifully situated at the West End of the Town, a good distance from the Sea, commandmg an extensive View of the Bay. LIFT. READING, BILLIARD, and SMOKING SALOONS. IiADIES* Dn AWING BOOM. ENGLISH AND FOREIGN NEWSPAPERS, Sxoellent Ouisine ancl Olioiee Moines. GREAT CLEANLINidS. Omnibus of the Hotel meets all Trains. SpedaA airrcmoeauMtfor a lengt\en«d sqfoum. ONLY HOUSE WITH LIFT. All Langaages spoken. Proprietor, BQBERT WULFING. 8CHWALBACH. THE DUKE OP NASSAU HOTEL. Thia FirstOlass Hotel, with private Hotel adjoining, is beautifolly situated in the he<biest and beat part of tbe town, facing the I\iblfc; PrcMnenadea, and in dose proximity to the Royal Baths, the New Curhouse, the Diinklng Hall, and the EngUsb Church, it contains a good naBi1)er of eleganily-rurnisbed Apurtmenta and Salooos for Ikmilies and single gentlemen, and combines eomfort with Moaente Cbai^es. "This Hotel id patronisod 1^ many dibtlngtiished families of KngUrni and the Contixvut Favour- Able *' itsssion " arran^omentff are made aft the end cf tha BNuon. ▲ oomffoiitable Omnifafus belonging to ihe Hotel starts from SehwMbach to Wiesbaden at eight o'clock In the moruing, and leaves WIeabadcn at Ave o'clock in the afternoon, opposite the Railway Station, ftom theTaunns Hotel. CafS Kestaurant, Panlinenberg, WfacQr and Milk -Establishment, ten minutes' walk from the Nassau Hotel, with which there is conunuuication by Teieph 60 MUfiRAT'S HANDBOOK APVfiHTlSEilL May^ SPHWA^LBAQH. BERLINER HOF HOTEL. This new Hotel is adaiirtblT sitnated on the piibUc Promeqade, close to the Miitenl Springs and l\»9t and Tel^rapn Ofilcefl. Apartments for Family opd dn gle roons. Table d'bote. Private service and a la Carte at any hour. Excellent CootdDg. Moderate Caiarges. English spoken. M. DILIM WITOW. SEVILLE. "' GRAND HOTEL DE MADRID. FIRST-CLASS Family Hotel, the largest in Seville. Well Bituated. Ax>artments for Families. Table d'Hote. Beadr ing and Smoking Rcx>m6. Foreign Newspapers. Bathfl, Tropical Gardens, Carriages, Interpreters. ArrangemeniB for Winter. Hodeiate PriaeB#^' \" JULIO MEA2ZA, Manager- X SMYRNA. HOTEL DES DEUX AUGUSTE. {Frmch) Established in 1845. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. FACING THE PORT. All languages spoken. SPA. fiSAHD EdTElTBRITAllRIQUE. F. LEYH, Proprietor. PATBONISED BT THE BOTAL FAHILT OF BELOIUH, And maiutaiDfi a high reputatioii among the Aristocracy of Europe. SItUATEO IN THE HEALTHIEST PART OF THE TOWN. ■ I ■ LARGE GARDEN AND SWIMMING BATH& . AdQoming lihe Boulevard de» Anglait and lihe JEngUsh Churdh. ENGLISH SPOKEN. ^p« MUREAyS HANDBOOK ADVEHTISER. GRAND HOTEL. rpmS HanJauniG Building Is Bitiiotpl a the fin st pjrt of fha City, - between Cburlea tLo Xlltli's Snuare Bad tho Nnlionul Jliieeuin, on le of the Principal Quays, jnat at tta eonflnenee of tli6 Lahe Malar and tbe Baltic Tlie Royal Talrico, one of the stntBlieBt m Europp fa m the Hotel on the opposite sido of tlie Ilarlwur Tho Kojal Optru and tbe Principal Theatres oje in tioee proximity. The balooitiea and roof ofthe Hotel ooronMuid tbe moet estensi™ "Fiewa of the City. Tlie House is tcplelfl wltli every modem improvament and oonvenienco, ind no espouse baa been spared to render it one of tho first and moHt com- fcrtable Hotela on tbe Owtinent. The Buildiug oaataina Four Hundred Sleeping Apartmenti, beeidiu Dining Booms, Sitting Rooma, Cofiiia and Reading Rooms, a BiUiiud Roogi, aTelographinidPostOfBcG, Baths, Retiring HoomB, alriiiindry, and otiiei aooommixlatioiiB. The eeveral flafa oan be reached by Steam Lifts, All Enropean Langnagea spken. Guides and Oanveyanoea supplied to aJl placea of intersat in tho City and Nuighboiirhood. fermi mill be found to compare fiiTOorahly with those of otliet Drsl-oluBs Hotcla '. ' [J; ~ The Hotel Kydberg-. m Gdbeaf Adolb'b Tona. .'. t:^ [ fnmS Old rictor of tliese Two Firat-OJass Hotels ia in a position to offcl every advantage to sbungora jinting.Ae Swodiah Oapital. R. CADIER, I > FtV^fialor of Bit Onnd Bft^l Atidthe EMd Bi^ai^Mi.ty • '^ 62 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER May, SPA. GBAND h6tEL DE L'SIUBOPE. IjiIRST-GLASS HOT£L. I^eodid Situation. Fine Apartmentg. Drawing and Reading Room. Every Oomfort. Spadoos and handsome alterations have been lately made. OtnntbuM cf ike HotA «U tkB Arrival of tntrg Tnt^L spa! h6TEL DES PAYS-BA8. Vve. L DE COCK, Froprietress. FIRST-GLASS. Exceptional fldtoation at the top of the Town. Large Ckutlen ofi^iMite the PoulM>n, cloae to tbe Oasino and Batba. Omoibas at the Stalion. Mach recommended. ST. PETERiSBURG. ECO xEIa JOB iFRANCE, GRANDE MORSKAi'A, No. 6, AND RIVlllRE DE LA MOlKA, No. 53. E. RENAULT^ Proprietor. THIS Magnificent Hotel is rebuilt on the same site as it previously occupied, and is situated near the Imperial Palace, the Minister's Offices, the Exchange de la Neva, tbe Park Alexander, the Admimllor, Police Office, and Newsky Perspektive. It contains 200 Booms, also Reception and Beading Booms, Baths, &c. OMNIBl/B MEETS TRAINS AT ALL RAILWAY STATIOIfS. ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. FBENCH CUISINE. RENOWNED WINE CELLAR. ULr. BENAXTLT, the new Proprietor of this Hotel (which has been established over 20 years), will spare no pains to give every satisfjetotion to his nnmerong Visitors. "" Stuttgart: ' ^ HOTEL JM[A.RQXJAK.r>T 1 8 situated in the finest part of the Town, in the beautiful Place Boyal, *- adJoinin(( tbe Railway Station, near tbe Pust OfiPce, the Theatre, the Royal Gardens, opposite the Palace, and facing ibe KutiigBhau. This Hotel will be found most comfortable in every respect ; the Apartnicnta are eleganily f uroisbed, and sultabte for Families or Single Gfcntfoen. Table d'Hdte' at 1 and 5 o'dock: Fr«>n6h and KngliiQi Newspapers. GME. MARQUAIiDT, Proprietor. GRAND h6tEL SOUVILLE '(Place du Gapitole). KEPT by M. DABD1GNAG» Reataiiratenr. A Fir^cOilaB House, one of the best-dtuated in the Town, close to the Grand Theatre, Poet and Telegraph OflSce. la to be reoom« Z mended from its good Attendance. Most ccnnfortabie Apartments, Salons, and Bedrooms. Eestaarant Mt fixed PHces, or ^ l« cctr<4 PrlvttB Servioe Unt Families. Baths and Private Carriagea in tbe Hotel Carriages aii& Ompihipis ei»tei \bA Omrtyard of .the HoteL 1883. MdHRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 63 THUN (Switzerland). GKAND HOTEL DE THOUNE (THUNERHOF). Proprietor, Ch. STAEHLE, formerly Manager at the Hotel Bauer au Lao, Zurioh. FIBST-GLASS HOTEL, the largest and most comfortable in the place, beautlfnlly sitnatcd at the Lake, iKith a splendid > iew of the Alps, and snrronndeii hy a larxe Garden. A Terrace found tbe wbole length of tbe Hoase ; no equal in Switzer- land. 'J here Is also a Lift. MNGLISH LIB Jt AMY. Pension the whole Season, by staying Five Days. GRAND HOTEL DU MIDL Patronised by the Buke of 19'orfolk and Duo d'Atunale. BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED ON THE PLACE VU CAPITOLE. FIRST-GLASS ESTABLISHMENT, Offering the same comforts as the largest Hotels hi France. Frequented by the highest Ckus of Engliith and American Travellers, English spoken. Restaurant and Table d'H6t& Rich Beading Boom and Conversation Salon. " The Times *' Newspaper. BXTO-. POURQUIBJR, Propinetor. TOURS. GRAND HOTEL DE L'UNIVERS. i ■ ON THE BOULEVARD, NEAR THE STATION. !E2iu*opeaii XC/epntution. Highly recommended in all the French and Foreign Guide Books. EUGENE OOILLAUME, Proprietor^ ly^ 84 MDRRArS HANDBOOK ADVEBTISEB. Ifay, TRIBERQ. In the middle of the celebrated Railroad of the Black Forest. BIERINGER'S BLAOK FOEEST HOTEL. FIBST CIiASS. Opened from the Ist of May, 1877. SITUATED on a charmiDg Hill, at the most ma^floent point of the Town, overlooking from all parts the highly celebrated Cascade. It is the finest and moet elegant Hotel at Tribcrg, fitted up with ail the cumforts of the preaent time. Sarronnded with a large terrace, a Tery handsome park and pleaaant promenades ; and containing 80 very comfortable Bedvooms and Saloons, 26 Balconies, splendid Breakfast and Dining Rooms, Smoking, Reading, and Conversation Rooms; it offers a very agreeable Residence, at ten minutes' dibUnce from tiie RUlway Station. Two elegant Stage Coaches and a I^andau meet all Trains. Every Sunday. English Divine Service. Reduced prices during the Spring and Autumn. TUNIS. GRAND HOTEL DE PARIS Bit hStEIj BERTRAJTD. JULES ATJDEMARD, Snccessenr. WINTERS ABROAD. By B. N. Otteh, M.A. Intended for the use of Invalids. Crown 8vo. 7«. ed, JoHif MuBBAT) Albemarle Street. / TURIN. fiRAND HOTEL DE L'EDROPE. PBOPBIETOBS— Messrs. BORGO and GAGLIAEDI. Situated Pla,ee de OlAateau, opposite the JE£ing^*s !E^a.laoe« (FiwB minuks from the Batlway SiationS) THIS, unrivalled aiid adiniral)]7-conduoted Hiplel reoommends^itgelf to the notice of English fravellers. The Hotel has been entirely and newly decorated with handsome paintings by the best modem painters, and there is a patent hydraulic lift for 6 persons at the servioe of all visitors. EXCELLENT TABLE D'HOTE AT 6 O'CLOCK. BATHS IN THE HOTEL. Interpreters speaking all the European Languages. Oliarges Moderate. The Times Newspaper. An Omnibus from l^e Hotel will be found at «very Train. TURIN. ORAND HdTEl4 LIGUBIE, Bodoni 9quare, and Andrea Doria and Charles Albert Streets. MAGNIFIOERT, verf f(ood and comfortablei Bemovod tol a liigB end ramptvons Palace, expressly built. Flrst-Claaa Family "Hotel. The only one of Turin isolated in M law* beautiful square, splendidly exposed to tbf so uth. High ly patronised by the best^EagOAJead Aiaerloui VnalllMu AXBllCO QtTxDI, Proprietor. r [iiirt ^ 1883. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 65 ^ VALI=NCIA XSPAIN). HOTEL I>E 1L.A. vrCLE r>E MLAJDR^ED. Kept ly Mr. CARLOS CANTOVA d'HTOS, THIS Flnt-ntte SataUishiuent, altuated on the Villarrosa Sanare, No. 0^ has been entirely xo-itumishod with eveiy modem oomfort and Itfaniry, aud now ottBtt tb'e most d«9lnible reaidenoe to Kngllah Travellecs vieiting this FiiM OlimAte. SuUes of Apartmenii fax Farailios from the lowest priGas to £0 fir. a day. KxeUaait dinfAM and good Atfeendanee. Foreign New^Mpem. Knglishr Vtancfa, ana Italian spoken Baths, in. The Hotd is olose by the Post Office, the Theatres, and the best Ftomenadeei Board and Lodging, with Light and Service inclncled, 80 Beaox per day for Single Trarellem ; but with Sitting Boonu for IfamlHee, from 60, 80 to 100 Beals per day. ' • VARESE. (Lombardy.) GRAlirD HOTEL VARESE. , In direct oonunnnication by Rail with . ' MILAN^ LAKE 'MAQGIOJiE, COMQ, find. LUGANO. FmST-GLASS HOTieiL, snnoiiiided T^th an erfcenBiye GABDBN and PARE, situated in the best and healthiest part of Lombardy» 1319 feet above ibe Sea, commanding a meet extensive view of the Alps, Monte RotaQiAhu, and containiDg ^OO Rooms . a^ndl Salpipjas. PENSION. Baths ODeMbftooTi fingUsbOhttrdi.' English PfayBieiao attaclied tothe Hold. E. MABINI, Manager. VENICE. GRAND HOTEL D'lTALIE, BAUER GRijNWALD. FIEST-CLASS HOTEL, near St. Mark's Square, on the Grand Canal, facing the Ghurcli of St. Maria della Salute. Fresh and Salt Water Baths reiady at all hours. Odebrated for Us ** Grand Restaurant*' and Vienna Beer, JULES (jRtfNWALi), Piroprletor. f . II . VENICE. GRAND HOTEL, DE L'EUROPE. QLD-ESTABLISHED FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the Grand Canal. Large and email Apartments for Families and Gentlemen. Visitors ^11 find this Hotel very comfortahle, well-sitnated, and zeaaonable in Its Charges. MARSEILLE BRO^-, Proprietors. ^ VERONA, GRAND HOTEL DE LONDRES. FORMERLY HOTEL DE LA TOUR DS LONDRBS. A. CERES A, New Proprietor. THBlumrtanifliMatHoWift yenilDi,ii«trtk»Boman AmpUtheatMb BagUsh Chnrcfa SbtvIoh *i tfa* Bold. Mo4 oencral podtJen. -Gzeaft oomfturt. AU Langnaflw ipukmu OmattraaVk wA^cwk^ta ff**it*tnn. Highly; 66 Ml^RRAr'S BANDBOOK ADVERTlSEtL Ma;, VIENNA. @lliL¥D MOTEL, K&BMTHMEBBIN& No. 9, SITUATED on the mcnrt elegant and frequented Sqimre of the Gitj. Three hundred Booms, from 1 florin upWBtia. Apartments, from 6 florins upwards. Beantifal Dining Saloon, Bestanrant Saloons, Conversation, Smoking, and Beading Booms. BATHS & TELEGRAPH OFFICE IN THE HOUSE. Lifts for Oommimicatioii with eaeh Storey. DINNERS & SUFFERS A LA CARTE. TABLE D'HOTE, OMinSUSES AT THB BAHiWAY STATIOirS. VIENNA. J. & L. LOBMEYR, GLASS MANUFAOTUBESS, Appointed Purveyors to the Imperial Ck>nrt of Au8tris> No. 18, KABNTHNEBSTBASSB. Thi 7no9t extensive EstabUahment for Bohemian Cryetal^ Faficy OlasSj and Chandeliers, I Every variety of Glass for Household use, Ornament, and in Ai< i ' Workmanship. Specialities in Engraved Glass and Looking-Glassei. Chandeliers, Candelabno, in Orystal and Bronze. ; - IiABOE SHOW-BOOMS UFSTAIBS. j The prices are fixed, and are very moderate. — ^English is spoken. | Their CbrraBpondents in Enf;land^ Messrs. J. & B. H^Csaqkbn, Ko. 8& I [ Queen Sire&t, Omnon Btieet E.C.,liCAj9K»^NiVAtEBiiam{t all onlers wi4 ' the greateat care and atten^u. ( j -\ 1883. UHRRAT^ HANDBOOK ADTERTISEa n^AND HOTEL DEB AMBA8SADBDEB, Sitnftted in tliB Park.- GRAND HOTEL DU PARC. THE LARGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE IN VICHY. AFIHKT-CLABS HOTEL, aituated ia thi> Park, rnoing tbe Buthi., Bpiings. and Cuino. PRIVATE PAVILION JOR FAMILIES. QERMOT, Proprietor. villeneuve, lake leman. H[6TETj byeon. ONE of tbo iitieat Efltiiblishiuents, with a largo Park iiifl Forest, Lawn Tennis and Cricket Gronnd. TcnnH for a long stay from G to 10 frB. j)cr day, FISHING AND HUNTING VEfLY ABU^TJA^T;- JEAM AB.'KLl.'E.TJ^'B., Tfi.K&'!..4« 63 UCBEATS HANDBOOK ADTEBTISER. Kt'. VEVEY. HOTEL MONNET AND TEOIS COUEOMES. 7. SCHOTT. WIESBADEN. HOTEL ET BAINS DE NASSAU. Ifltessn. OOETZ BBOTHSB8, Ptopriaton. P'IBST-CLASS HOTEL of old and good repntation, opp?ai?e the Carb&u.s O/.or.nadri!. Park*. sz.i. D*?ct the l^eatrw. Spkndid Diniac sod g**:*— ^ as. Table d'H4te At One aim I in o'clock. Mineral BAtha of Own HoK'Sccizc. Booms. HOTEL VILLA NASSAU. AniKV« of th« JWfm, DK ^Casiac. Proprleton abo SfoBrSL Gom BaorHKasL LTN'EST FAMILY HOTEL in Town, with all Modem Comfort, t: *■ fxAfitifTil Hitoanon n'ixt th« Hoc Sprliiff«, The«trp, Curhanc, Coloniudf?, etc. W. ZAia WIESBADEN. Proprtetor. "POUR SEASONS" (Vier Jahreszeiten) HOTEL. THIS First-Class Hoc^e enjoys the finest position in the Great Square. -^ facing the Kursaal, the Pnk. arid b^Dg clo*e v» cb« .SpriLrii. N^umero:!* SaIx:^ wi*^ Ralrr/nl^ and oom'or.abie .'jle^ping htfjiu*. FiOf billing and Ass^mbij Room*. La^k WIESBADEN.-UOSIi: HOTKL AND BATH HOl'St-. SPLKKDID First-ClaM Establbhrnent ckse to the Cu|Ba«l, oppoiite the TrinUmile, and aJJoinlng tLe ProoenBde. No oth*:r Hotel exc«pi 6iis k aarracadcd by a Gardfen of it« owd, or lUppUcrd with Baths direct from the hot springs (Eochbrcnnrn'. (4u\*:t arid airy ■■tnation. with Knalista comfort and reasonable ChaigM. Drawing. R^adtrz. an'l .Smoking K/xim^, and Billijird T^X'Tn. containlne a fulL-it to this Town. This First-Class Hotel is partlrtilarly recommend'.'d for its Large and Airy Apartments, having the finea^ siuusion m-ar tij" S'.ation, facing the Palace, and aiqdinlDg a fine Garden. Beading Booms. Cold and Warm B itii", kc. Moderate Charges. J. AmcoN. I ZARAGOZA, SPAIN. Grand H6tel de TEurope. Excellent Oookirtp and ModeraU Charge*. VIUDA I>E ZOPPETTl Y IllJaS^ ProprUton, The Art of Dining; or, OASTROHOICT LED OASTBOHOICEBS. By A. HAYWARD. New Edition, post Svo., 2f. Jomr MuBBAY, Albemarle Street. / , , . / 7Tff£7 PABTHEXOX. An Essay cm tV^ Tswsdft in which Light was ' ■*- /otHK/ooed Into Greek and BonvsaTeBDa9\!es. 1^ S&a&^Vuu&^L^^^rrs^. v\A.,aix. Jouar MrBRAY, A\\>eTQaLtVft ^\.Tefe\.. A 1883. MimRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 69 WILDBAD. HOTEL KLU M P P, Tonaerly HOTHL DB L*OT7B8. Mb. W. ELUMPP, Fbofbibtob. ^XAN/XyV/X^V/Vyv^K^ v#\^\< v^ \, ^ ,, \^\*-\,^^ THIS Firsi-Clast Hotel, oontAming 45 Saloons and 235 Bed Roomi, with a aeparate Breakfast and new Beading und. Conversation Rooms, as well as a Smoking Saloon, and a rery exteniiTe and elegant Dining Room ; an artificial Garden oyer the riyer ; is beautifdlly situated in connection with the old and new Bath Buildings and Conyersation House, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade and the New Colonnade. It is celebrated fitr its elegant and comfortable apartments, good Ouisine and Cellar, and deserves its wide-spread^ reputation as an excellent Hotel. Table d'Hdte at One and Ave b'^olock. Break&sts and Suppers & ia carte. Exchange Office. Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for the payment of Circilli^ Notes and Letters of Credit Oonnibuses of the Hotel to and from each Trahi. Elevators to every floor. Fhie Private Carriages when requested. Warm and Cold Baths in the Hotel. SXCELLSNT AOCOMMODATIOK. ZURICH. HOTEL ZURICHERHOF AU LAC. MAGNiriCENT position, with view on the Lake and MountaiDs, oloae to the National Exhibition of Fine Arts, the Town Hall, and the new Bridge of the Quai and the lundlng-place of the Steamboats. Comfbrt of the first order. 19" Omnilnts at the St€Uumt gratit, Ij8> liANQ, Prop rietor. ZURICH- SWISS NATIONAL EXHIBITION, MAY— SEPTEMBER, Close to Station. ZURICH. 80» Rue de la Qaro. WANNEB'S HdXEL GABNI. Situated upon the finest Sqnare of *■ the Town. Bedrooms, comfortably furnished with excellent beds, firom fr. 1*60 to ^ tn, 2*50 perdsy. Aptrtmenta for KamUles. The same comfort sa Vu«.V\t:«!t«XSsam'&s*ia^ \ Reduced prices for a long stay, with or wlthoal fioex^. \\Mla?Qx«sA «.! Tu^^TvXfe v*^0i» «>»• > same Floor. Germoo Beer on dn»i|{ht. Potter at th^^ta^oo. _ __x-jt.— 70 IfURRArS HANDBOOK AD^fiTTSKQ. JUnjl THE HANDBOOK DIOTIONABY. Now ready, a smaU Oblong Yolwme, 16mo., 6«. hownd^ A PEACTIOAL AND CONVBRSA.TI(»f At DICTIONARY OF THE ENGLISH, FRENCH, AND GERMAN LANGUAGES. FOB THE USE OF TRAYELLER8 AND STUDENTS, By aEOBGE F. CHAMBEB8» F.RA.a, Of the Inner Temple, Barrister-ai-Law. ■ ■ ■■ . I - I . . I ■ I ■ I - . .. , ■ , .1 Sixteenth Edition. Foftp. 89. 6c{. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK OF TRAVEL TALK. DIALOGUES -QUESTIONS -VOCABULARIES. IN ENGLISH, GERMAN, FRENCH, AND ITALIAN. Prepared expresflyfor English TraveUert Abroadt and Foreignert Visiting England. The " Handbook of Travel Talk " is not a reprint of old manuals of conversation '* drawn up towards the end of the last oentury/' but a modem traveller's phrase book, compiled eiqpresslv to meet the wants of the present day. Ample space is given to such matters as Hallway (Taking Tickets— In the Train— The Station, &c.), Post Office, Telegraph, Luggage Office, and to the multitude of technical words and phrases which the progress of modem travel. has developed. During the Fifteen Editions which it has passed through, it has undergone constant improvement; the consequence is, that it contains many words of modem invention not to be found in dtction^riefl. / Fifth Edition, with Woodcut?, small 8vo. 7s. 6d. THE ART OF TRAVEL ; or. Hints on the Shifts and Oontrivanoes available in Wild Oountries. By Francis Gaiiton, F.B.G.S., Author of ^ The Explorer in South Africa." **.... TVie 9Jfim»te ^ the late Sir Jambs Outjum. ** Sfr. Gallon publishes this llttls voltune Ibr the tise of tDvrlstg'wfao tnvel Ikr md * roogh W It wooid also put soum oseftil idaas into the heads of men who stay at boine." — £'MaiRINCZPIA, Part IL A Beading Book, contalfiing Fables, Stories, sad Anecdotes, Natural Histofr, and Scenes from the History of Genuany. With Grammatical (Questions, Notes, and Dictionary, lamo. 3t. 6(1. PRACTIOAL GERMAN GRAMMAR. With a Sketch of tke Hfstorittd ievelopment of tha Language and its Principal Dialects. Post 8vo. 3t. 6 Ibify. THE ORIGINAL GUIDE & TRAVELLERS' DEPSt, passport sntr ^.ouriers' ^geitcg, LEE & CARTER, 440, WEST STRAND, LONDON (Nearly oppaslto the Cbarinjc Cross EotelL Ini«ading Tourietg are Te^cifvUy itmied to visU Ihit EatabUahmiTii before Jiinihg purcAa»e» for their joai-ney. AN EXTENSIVE STOCK OF TRAVELLERS' REQUISITES TO SELECT FROM. COURIERS, DRAGOMEN, TRAVELLING SERVANTS of good character and experience, Bpeakiug European and Eastern Languages, can be engaged at the above Establishment. Also Passports and Visas obtained. Passports mounted on Linen and put in Cases, with Name printed outside. I t I i m^^^M «»?§.'«»